I have a Tosheba laptop computer that has what seems to have a power problem. Any help would be appreciated.

When powering up laptop (pluged in to electrical outlet) it turns on and powers down within a minnute.

I'm currently getting the windows main error options (start windws normally / safe mode / etc) Once I select any option, the laptop automatically powers down.

I tried to power up off the battery (without power cord attached) but nothing happened, laptop did not power up.

I also tried to charge battery - blue light on front illuminates to identify electrical power, and amber light to identify battery charging. (The battery does not seem to be taking a charge)

Thanks in advance...

AC adapt. is providing some power but batt. isn't taking it. Rx, replace both, if that fails take it to the service tech or to the dump.

AHH- Before you do that, it could be an overhaeting CPU. Is the fan going hard? could be trying to cool CPU down. CPU not cooling because the CPU grease is dries out and heatsinc not working. open it up and apply grease. $10 tube, use a grain of rice worth, makes a cheap laptop if it fixes it. is the fan going? no? busted fan? CPU overhaets again.

hi, i agree with hotmatrixx, check u'r cpu fan it might be overheating..make sure that your heatsink is properly seated to CPU..

if you know how, go into your BIOS and it might tell you how hot your CPU is: it shouldn't be higher than 45 d celcius (90F I think But Dont Quote Me)

BIOS is the panel you access when your PC says something like "press F2 (or DEL) to enter set up" when it boots. it will be under hardware somewhere. all bios slightly different so hard to tell. you might need to dig a little but dont change anything unless you know what you are doing or your PC might not boot.

Heat damaged CPUs do not always come back, even if they do they may still be a prob. such as intermittent service. No fix for that.

thats true but if it is turning itself off before it overheats it may not be damaged.

hotmatrixx > "thats true but if it is turning itself off before it overheats it may not be damaged. " Before giving one's self false hope best to consider that intermittent, etc. service is of previous non-recoverable damage.

Having made necessary repairs to a sawmill's blade the sawmill's owner asked for a itemized receipt. The receipt read: Hitting bend in blade $10.00; knowing WHERE to hit it $90.00. The bill was duely paid, signed receipt said so.

Actually, I Ran a sawmill until '07 and they don't hit ém they cut, weld and grind ém these days. straightening a fold only weakens the metal.

but I digress.

My comment is not there in an effort to undermine yours - only to offer that all may not be lost. New CPU are expensive if the problem is the cooling fan needs grease Or the heat sinc needs de-dusting. Or what ever. I am only saying that a bust CPU is one possibility and there may be other causes - easier to diagnose and easier to remedy.

As for your input I assumed as much. Just wanted to give full value to my two cents worth.
The blade service tech's were uneducated monkeys. Heating the blade post manuf. removes the temper of metal. Blade at that point is not only unstable but quite dangerous to operate at required RPM. The blade that I referred to was circular type, old tech to you I suppose, from what I gather you refered to the band type. Same sense applies tho., also same result as I expect you found. Band type can be fixed but requires trip to shop for specially designed blade welding machinery. Due to current requirements of machine impractical to put mobile, you still need 240vac outlet for sawmill type band blade. Would not have worked well for cabinet shop blades, same basic reason, req. 120vac outlet. For the latter, a new blade is far more cost effective.
You find king monkey, you explain to king monkey, monkey style, description of who did what, you'll get your money back. King Monkey AIN'T gonna play or put up with that kind of poo.