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Views: 71653 | Replies: 67
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 3,735
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Man, you never even read it!
The cardboard goes in, the glue goes under the socket, and it's clamped down for pressure.
Then the cardboard comes out, the processor and heatsink are reassembled, and all's well!
The whole idea of the tip is to make the socket more securely fitted to the mainboard, to avoid any warping that might be evident.
The cardboard goes in, the glue goes under the socket, and it's clamped down for pressure.
Then the cardboard comes out, the processor and heatsink are reassembled, and all's well!
The whole idea of the tip is to make the socket more securely fitted to the mainboard, to avoid any warping that might be evident.
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Join Date: Mar 2004
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My bad. I re-read it (I read it like 5 times before....) and now makes more sense, although I must say that the instructions were a bit vague until further clarified.
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Join Date: Apr 2004
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Hi,
I've been searching high and low for some information regarding the Presario 700.
The problem I'm having isn't directly associated with the one currently being discussed, but I hope someone can help me!
I need to replace the CMOS Battery on my Compaq Presario 700 - my question is, HOW!?
In page two of this thread, somebody mentions the CMOS Battery is located under the keyboard, top right hand corner. So is there some sort of way to remove the keyboard, or do I have to remove other things first to get to it?
If someone could push me in the right direction, it'd be much appreciated. Thanks.
I've been searching high and low for some information regarding the Presario 700.
The problem I'm having isn't directly associated with the one currently being discussed, but I hope someone can help me!
I need to replace the CMOS Battery on my Compaq Presario 700 - my question is, HOW!?
In page two of this thread, somebody mentions the CMOS Battery is located under the keyboard, top right hand corner. So is there some sort of way to remove the keyboard, or do I have to remove other things first to get to it?
If someone could push me in the right direction, it'd be much appreciated. Thanks.
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Join Date: Apr 2004
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I did it!
I managed to chance the CMOS battery, which fixed my problem.
One thing though, I'm left over with a little spring, 2.5cm's long - although the Presario still works fine without it
I managed to chance the CMOS battery, which fixed my problem.
One thing though, I'm left over with a little spring, 2.5cm's long - although the Presario still works fine without it
just found this site looks interesting .
http://tuxmobil.org/disassembly_laptop.html
Compaq 700
http://www.geocities.com/hpmsgs/700xx/
http://tuxmobil.org/disassembly_laptop.html
Compaq 700
http://www.geocities.com/hpmsgs/700xx/
Boo!!!!! Sarcastic Jack
hi my email notification stopped working sorry if i didn't reply to some post ,cj
hi my email notification stopped working sorry if i didn't reply to some post ,cj
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Join Date: Jul 2004
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My Presario 700 won't boot up...I updated the software via Windows Update. I get the Compaq startup screen and then it's blank. I've tried to press F8 and restart it in safe mode, but it just gives me a blank screen. Any suggestions?
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Join Date: Jul 2004
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Originally Posted by beeneeb
My Presario 700 won't boot up...I updated the software via Windows Update. I get the Compaq startup screen and then it's blank. I've tried to press F8 and restart it in safe mode, but it just gives me a blank screen. Any suggestions?
I wonder if Rudedoggy ever got his up and running. I took mine apart and my CPU looks just like his did..in the same spot even. Can you say ...design flaw. Anyway I am hoping he was able to fix his that way I have some hope of fixing mine.
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Marin County, CA
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Hi folks,
For those of you new to this forum:
We ask that members not tag their questions on to a thread previously started by another member (regardless of how similar you problem might seem). Not only does it divert the focus of the thread away from the original poster's problem, but it also makes it less likely that you yourself will get the individual attention that you need.
Please start your own thread and post your question there. When you do, please try to give us as much specific info as possible regarding the problem (exact error messages, system specs, etc.).
Thanks.
For those of you new to this forum:
We ask that members not tag their questions on to a thread previously started by another member (regardless of how similar you problem might seem). Not only does it divert the focus of the thread away from the original poster's problem, but it also makes it less likely that you yourself will get the individual attention that you need.
Please start your own thread and post your question there. When you do, please try to give us as much specific info as possible regarding the problem (exact error messages, system specs, etc.).
Thanks.
"May the Wombat of Happiness snuffle through your underbrush."
- Ancient Aborigine blessing
Please do not contact me by email or PM for help. We're all volunteers here, and only have so much free time to dedicate to our efforts.
However, if I've been working on a thread with you already, and seem to have "forgotten" your thread, please do send me a message. I try not to let things slip through the cracks, but it does happen sometimes.
- Ancient Aborigine blessing
Please do not contact me by email or PM for help. We're all volunteers here, and only have so much free time to dedicate to our efforts.
However, if I've been working on a thread with you already, and seem to have "forgotten" your thread, please do send me a message. I try not to let things slip through the cracks, but it does happen sometimes.
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Join Date: Jul 2004
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Welp, I finally got mine working! I used the startup disks from Microsoft.com and use the "Repair Windows" option.
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Join Date: Aug 2004
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Originally Posted by RudeDoggy
Actually, I managed to open the laptop and I think the CPU is the culprit. Here's a pic of the CPU. Notice the damaged resistor in the upper-left corner of the CPU. http://individual.utoronto.ca/cmike/temp/fried.jpg
So I'm going to get my hands on another CPU and hope that that will fix the problem (and not have any other problems like AC connectors or whatnot).
Hi, in case this thread is still active, I have some additional info. I have been living with a Presario 713EA for a couple of years, and it has always had problems with random freezing. I have tried to upgrade OS, drivers and BIOS, but nothing really helped. Symptoms were like described in this and other threads, one had to switch off the PC and then turn it back on again.
The other night this changed, the PC all the sudden went black, not just the usual frozen display, but no life signs at all except for the green LED.
This time I could not switch it back on, the only thing that happened was a small click from one of the drives.
So now I had to take the PC apart, and I found some strange things that explained a lot to me:
1. The processor was not seated correctly in the socket, this was the reason for the problem with no life at all. It happens because the processor and socket gets to hot, whereby the socket warps slightly and that eventually works one or more legs of the CPU out of the socket (at least there is no connection between leg and socket). This also explain why it in some cases helps to knock on the PC, or even drop it on the table, also other things that involves moving the PC (changing battery, replacing hard drive, installing software from CD´s or floppy’s) will have the same effect, the missing connections are temporarily restored.
2. The image RudeDoggy has taken shows another serious problem. The material seen between the capacitors on top of the CPU is actually Heat transfer compound that has melted of the pad between the heat sink and the CPU. As this is a metallic composite, it will short the components on top of the CPU and destroy the CPU. In my case the melted material had not shorted the CPU, but it was close.
All of this indicates that Compaq has made a seriously bad design with regard to heat removal.
My solution to all of this was to replace the heat transfer with a better suited material. We know for a fact that heat transfer paste is not efficient enough, so we had to look for better material, and luckily for me, the company I work for represents Loctite Power Devices, and they have a solution. It is a material called PCTIM (Phase change thermal interface material), it is a piece of aluminium sheet coated on both sides with a compound that melts when heated, this causes it to fill all the very fine holes etc. on both the heat sink and the CPU, this ensures the optimum heat transfer.
The PC has now been running for 3 days without any freezes at all
:lol:
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