XP BIOS Update

[chaoticabyss99]

I have an HP Media Center PC that I bought in 2005. I've had a heat problem that I can't figure out. I've replaced the mobo, CPU, and psu. None of this fixed my problem. My pc will run for about 5 minutes and then shut itself off cuz it gets to 207 degrees F. I've been reading about other peoples issues with heat problems and thought that maybe the bios needs to be updated. My question is: how can I do this when I only have 5 minutes before my system shuts down? Because it's an older, slower pc that takes longer to boot.

Any lead would be appreciated.

Thanks - Ryan

[khakilang]

Your mobo is overheating could be due to your computer fan not working. You can go into your BIOS and check the power management and set it to default. Before that check that all the fan in your computer is working including the PSU fan. And also blow away all the dust in your computer. I once had this problem but after all this, it is working fine. I hope it work for you.

[chaoticabyss99]

Both fans are working. I even checked the bios. And the inside has already been cleaned from any dust. Thanks though.

[gerbil]

Check your PSU voltages... some may be too high.

[chaoticabyss99]

What would be considered normal psu voltage?

[gerbil]

They are standardised... but you can find them and the wire colours by seraching your PSU model. It may be best for you to take the PSU or case to a tech who will check them with a load plug... take him 2 mins.
If you have a DVM [dig multimeter] look up your PSU and check. The PSU must be connected to a load for it to regulate correctly. eg. your mb. But you are quite sure that your CPU heatsink is well seated with good, soft paste?

[chaoticabyss99]

I have re-seated the PSU a few different times with varying amounts of thermal paste and the same heat issue keeps occuring. I will check the voltage of my PSU.

Thanks for the lead.

[chaoticabyss99]

So here is the link for the specs of my PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817174033

I'm kind of confused on the Input Voltage: 100 - 120 V / 200 - 240 V. Is it supposed to be 100 - 200 V or 200 - 240 V?

And also on the Output: +3.3V@15A, +5V@13A, +12V1@18A, +12V2@18A, -12V@0.8A, +5VSB@2.0A.

WHich numbers should I be looking at when I'm testing the voltage?

[gerbil]

Re the line voltage...Er.. what country are you in? What is your domestic line voltage? Normally this would have been set correctly by the manufacturer or exporter of the PSU for the country where it is to be sold.
Go to this site: http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html
Near the middle of the article, just above the 3-line paragraph starting with this: "Some of the voltage lines on the connector may have smaller sense wires ..." you will see a two-section table of Pinouts referring to the mb plug ... Pins 1-10 and Pins 11-20.
Wire colours to the other plugs follow the same convention... eg on a power plug to a cdrom or hdd you will find red 5v, yellow 12v, 2xground black.
Don't worry about the levels on the grey and green wires. Measure carefully, don't slip the probes!... measure at the back of the mb plug. Probe tips will reach the contacts inside.
You must have the PSU connected as normal otherwise it will not regulate. The voltages in the table should be taken as minimums, but the reading3 should be no more than a few percent above... say 5% above.
You can only easily measure the voltages, and that is enough... don't worry about the currents. If the voltages are good then so are the currents. If you are not comfortable about it, grab a friend who is. Please.

[gerbil]

And if the PSU passes those tests then you need to use some software which will give you the voltages the CPU is getting. You see, the mb has several power supplies devoted to the CPU, these can be software regulated... a good, quick and simple application is this one: HWMonitor from http://www.cpuid.com/softwares.html
Actually, if you got this, ran it and posted a screenshot of the result, that would do nicely. Save you measuring voltages [assuming your HP is compatible].
Yeah... assuming that your sys runs long enough to use this app, I'd prefer you to do this... just for safety's sake [yours and your mb's!!]. Install it to your desktop for easy access.

[chaoticabyss99]

I'm in the US. Not sure right off hand what my line voltage is, but I'll check out the site u suggested and see what I can come up with on the voltage numbers.

Thank you

[gerbil]

It's 120vac, then.
but please, use that software I mentioned. It will give all we want, and more. Post a screenshot, or save the log and post the top bit of it, down to the line Thread Dumps [we don't need to see those], about 1/10 of way down a notepad.

[chaoticabyss99]

I actually have a 24-pin connector, but I'm sure that's not quite relevant. I checked out the table on the site you gave me and made notes of the voltages for each color. I then powered up my cpu and tested the voltage of the different colored wires on the connector (while plugged into the mobo). Here is what I got: orange - 6.7V, red - 10.5V, purple - 10.4V, yellow - 25.7V. Blue didn't register at all; it just showed -0.00. These are all at least double the voltage what the chart showed. I think I tested it correctly, but not completely sure. If they sound a little off to you, then I can take it to a shop to have it tested; because they appear to be more than the 5% above the minimums.

If my computer sits turned off for a couple hours, I can usually get about 8-10 minutes of "ON" time; however, if I keep turning it on/off several times just messing with it, the time it stays on keeps decreasing. So, would it be possible to create a boot disk with the HWMonitor app on it? Because I know that the boot time on this computer exceeds the amount of time it would take me to actually get on the internet, download it, and run it.

[gerbil]

" Here is what I got: orange - 6.7V, red - 10.5V, purple - 10.4V, yellow - 25.7V."
And you used Black as the ground [or low/negative connection point] for your meter? Please don't use that PSU... it is not regulating. I am surprised that your mb has survived... it says a lot for the mb's onboard regulators!! Get it tested, but repairs are usually not worthwhile when compared with the cost of a new one.
Don't continue using it to test it with HWMonitor!!
[Aside.. a lot of boards now use 24 pin connectors... it allows systems with equipped PSUs to source extra power from another PSU output, it is added on the mb to power from the other lines.]

[kylejean]

you can change it into new one.

[chaoticabyss99]

I thought those numbers seemed a little off. And yes, I did use black as the ground for each of the colors I tested. Guess I will have to get a new PSU.

I'll let you know the outcome when I get a new one. Thanks for your time and advice.

[chaoticabyss99]

SO, I finally got a new PSU. And nothing. Still overheats. Just yesterday I went and got a new hdd and heatsink. Voila! My computer is up and running. Apparently even though my heatsink fan was working, the heatsink itself had some kind of malfunction. And my hdd was shot. Thank you very much for all of your help!!!!

[gerbil]

Thanks for the feedback. Glad you have the sys sorted. I guess I assumed that when you replaced the CPU you got the heatsink well seated - it's usually the reason for lifting it.
Did you get the old PSU's voltages tested?

[chaoticabyss99]

I haven't had the old psu tested yet, but I will eventually.