I have seen this before and believe the only way we resolved the problem was by replacing the device.

I take it you have not been playing in the BIOS area of your machine!
If you have please return there and return the settings to defaults for now.

If not there are three possible options for you

  1. Via the control panel uninstall all the relevant components for the USB BUS and Hubs and restart you machine - you may need to uninstall some of them a couple of times.
  2. Disable the USB in the BIOS and use an external USB card which should fit into the expansion slot on your laptop, mind you I have seen quite a few "cheaper" machines recently which dont have expansion ports. If you decide to follow this route you will need to ensure you either know the type of expansion slot you have or take the laptop with you when you go to buy the replacement and seek the advice of a local computer shop, dont bother with the local PC World as they will probably not know what your talking about and try and sell you a replacement machine instead.
  3. Look into the USB ports and check that there are no hairs or other nasties lurking within which could be "shorting" the electrical current.

I can safely say thay I have been using the Di Novo Keyboard mouse and keypad (bluetooth version) for approximately 4 years now WITHOUT the logitech software and can honestly say that the devices work more reliably both in XP and Vista (ALL flavours).

So before you start to give yourself worries over the issue, try uninstalling the software for your existing device, turn off the machine, change over the devices and start the machine, BE PATIENT as the drivers will be auto installed when windows starts. Yoou swill then have a fully functional device without all the crap which comes with it.

Dont get too hooked up on the "sleeve Bearing" markings as this is the type of mechanism used for rotation, other variations include "brushless" and "ball bearing". You should be able to get a replacement from here [url]http://www.maplin.co.uk/searchtemplate.asp?criteria=40mm%20cooling%20fans%202%20pin%20lead[/url] or contact me and I could order you one.

With lightening strikes most system motherboards and ram fries! This is one for the insurance company I am afraid.

The problem sounds like it is the actual connection to the motherboard. Disconnect both of your power cables and reconnect them and press firmly until you feel the "click" of the retaining clip which lets you know that it is securely connected. It is highly unlikely that you have damaged the motherboard by just changing the case.

It sounds as though your machine is stuck in a low power state. If tapping the spacebar, or clicking the left mouse mutton does not recover it - press and hold your powerbutton down for approx 8 seconds and this will "crash" your machine, release and press the power button again in the normal way you would start the machine and all should be well, apart from a windows complaint, but your machine should satart!

Getting 5.2 based purely on the Hard drive which is a 500gb Maxtor on SATA, other wise the machine gets a lovely 5.9 but the machine is as follows:
1 x AMD Phenom 9500, 4Gb Corsair 1066mhz RAM, NVidia 8800GTS 640Mb card, Vista Business 64 Bit!, Asus M3A32 MVP Deluxe Motherboard, 2 x 500Gb Maxtor SATA HDD (Vista Busines 32 on one drive/ 64 on the other) all feeding a HP LP3065 30" TFT 2560 x 1600.

Machine really does run like a dream (quite a warm dream at times) and I cannot grumble, one strange thing though - the processor dropped from 5.9 under Vista Business 32 bit to 5.8 under Vista Business 64 bit.

That is a very un-scientific way of checking thye RAM as it does not take into consideration the quality of the socket it is inserted into or if your insertion was done properly. However if you have then checked the suspect stick in another machine and the same faults are there, then I would be inclined to accept the failure of the memory.

If the video doesn't work then you may have too much RAM assigned to the on-board Video, this should be correctable by resetting the BIOS by disconnecting the machine from the mains supply, removing the internal battery and using the BIOS/CMOS reset jumper on the motherboard.

Good Luck

How long ago was it when you did this?

Was there sugar in the coffee?

If it was today - DO NOT TRY AND TURN IT ON AGAIN - open the laptop and place upside down on a towel in a warm place and hope that it will dry out in 48 hours (the warmer the better - but not the oven or microwave)(to check if the machine is dry place on it side - like an open book with kitchen roll underneath as this will help easily identify moisure leaking out).

If this was longer ago then you will need to get someone skilled to have a look at it! The machine will need to be cleaned.

There are still risks with these options and my professional advice is to get someone in to have a look as they should also have the facilities to save your data before they start.

The beeping is a Pre Operating System Test (POST) code, if the beeps are 6 in total then that is generally indicative of a failed video device, if you are getting multiple fast beeps then usually this is your RAM.

If its 6 beeps then check the card is correctly seated - pushed in!

If multiple beeps then try using 1 stick of RAM at a time.

IF you get the machine working then enter the BIOS and return the settings to defaults and reboot - IF the machine will not boot to BIOS then you will need to look for the reset jumper on the motherboard

If neither of these work then repost and I will have another think!

chin up!:)

You should be able to configure the RAID controller to work as a straight IDE controller or RAID controller in the BIOS. The Promise RAID driver then should not be required. To make sure I would be inclined to disconnect the other drive in your machine and just give it a go!

To get into the BIOS you will need to watch the black startup screen carefully, however it is usually accessed via the DELETE, F1 or F2 keys. If ytou still have the pretty image screens coming up when you start the machine then you will need to either read yourt manual or jus try the different options.

With regards to the actual installation attempt, if you disconnect your PATA drive and connect the SATA drive, insert the installation disk and start the machine ensuring that you boot from the DVD/CDROM device and proceed through the installation, if the drive will work it will show up and require partitioning etc.

Further assistance will require specific details about the motherboard.

I hope this clears up any confusion