It is common to track company resources. There is one area of concern: Tampering. Check your agreement with your employer concerning loaned equipment. Many devices will give an indicaiton of tampering, and that could cause trouble. If it feels like there is a leash tied to your computer, then you are right, there is. Good luck.

Could you give a few more details? Please list, exactly, your hardware, and all the 3rd party software you are running, especially the anti-virus programs.

This is a very complicated question, as any need for performance will need the PC to be tailored to the task. Are you an average user, a gamer, or an IT professional running gobs of data all day? The amount of RAM will only be recognized by a 64 bit operating system, not a 32. If your OS is 32 BIT, then 3 GB of RAM is more than you will ever use. The CPU and MOBO are really nice, I love multi-core configurable arrays. The HD may be a bottleneck for performance. In order to match the performance of the CPU/MOBO, you should go with a newer HD, with a large cache. I've seen systems take leaps into speedy-land with a simple HD upgrade. I'd recomend a 7200RPM SATA drive at minimum. The power supply is a single rail system. One overload and the entire system shuts off, and your data is GONE. Maybe look for a commercial multi-rail on sale. Nuff said, good luck.

Install Dell compatible RAM, then retest and repost. Dell, IBM, and Compaq are RAM-headache machines.

Dig into your router settings, and assign a static IP to the machines. Then, retest, and repost.

Boot into the BIOS, and check your hardware configurations. You may find that the fan is set on high. I've seen BIOS settings reset for no reason at all, and a power flux can definitely do it. Also, is the server running normally?

Since starting in the computer field back in 1979, I've seen an ongoing war with processors. Some tout their speed, others, their design, and still others heat and power characteristics. The bottom line is how it will perform in your application. I've seen a Pavilion DV with an single core AMD out pace a Pavilion DV with an intel Core Duo. It is all about configuration. Match the ram to the motherboard, don't go for a generic "it fits therefore it works". Also, aspreviously mentioned, tailor your video card to your needs. Then, tailor your heat management devices to the case and mobo. Having a very cool CPU, and cool RAM, and a cool Video card will do a lot of good for your performance, as the performance will degrade with an increase in heat, especially over 55 deg C. Now you may ask, what am I running? I run a Phenom 2 1.8 X4, with a FireGL video card, and just 2GB RAM. I've got 5 hard drives, all SATA running 7200 an 10,000 RPM. Lots of storage, backup and redundancy. I can run at 100% duty cycle indefinitely at 51 deg C as I have good thermal solutions for the mobo, CPU, RAM, and I even route the cables quite carefully. Also, it is a screamer. I call it NOW computing, as there is no delay in doing anything. The one reason I went with the AMD was customization. I can throw in a liquid cooling set-up and ...

List your motherboard make and model, and your BIOS version please.

Where exactly is the security chip located on this motherboard? We need to replace it, and there are 3 identicle chips to the new one that is in our hands. there are no identifying numbers on the new one.

If the video is fine on an external monitor, then your video card is most likely fine and also not a virus. It is either the video cable or the LCD screen itself. Unfortunately, you need a known good unit to swap out for testing.

During my time in the Airforce, i regularly used technology, both hardware and software that was about 20 years ahead of civilian deployment. I was making VOIP calls in 1984 on a regular basis, and had network storage hundreds of miles away from our site. Always remember that the Military must stay ahead of the general populace, so that they stay secure, mobile and in real time. If you saw wha they had under wraps, it would make your head spin.

Not reliably. replace the power button.

Time for a new PC. Emachines typically have very cheap power supplies, and they will eventually feed 24 or so volts to the motherboard. Pow, zap, throw away.

Sounds like a power button issue. There may be some dirt, or crumbs under the button. Remove the button panel, and test it. then, blow out any debris, and then retest.

Sounds like a driver issue since this occured right after a restore. look for updated drivers, and go by the serial number of the drive.

Sounds like a power problem. Inspect the motherboard under a magnifying glass. look for any bad solder joints, especially around the battery plug area and the power jack area. It sounds like a connection is failing under load. If you fins abad solder joint, then repair it.

It sounds like the power jack inside the laptop has broken. We've fixed a lot of power jacks, and your symptoms fit the bill. Strip the motherboard out of the laptop, and buy a new powerjack, and carefully replace the power jack.

Sounds like a hardware conflict. Strip it down to just the Power supply, motherboard, minimum RAM, keyboard, mouse and monitor. If you have onboard video, use that and remove your video card. Get into the BIOS and set it to DEFAULT settings. Then, add one component at a time and see what gives problems.

Beep codes mean hardware. Purchase a POST card off Ebay, and then read the codes from the card. then troubleshoot the components.

Take out the motherboard, and inspect the power connector-to-motherboard solder joints. Look for hairline cracks in the solder. Resolder if you find any. Also test for power coming in while the motherboard is out, see if the board is receiving power.

If there is no video on either the LCD or the external connection, then the onboard video is shot. Take the motherboard out, and inspect it all over with a magnifying glass. Look for components that have been knocked off. If you find anything missing or broken, purchase a parts motherboard and replace the parts. this does involve soldering components that are visible with a 15X magnifying glass, and a lot of patience.

We figured it out. The IC chip that regulates the power distribution was fried. We replaced it an now it works fine.

The backlight is definitley not working here. For it to work, the light must get high voltage from the inverter, and the inverter must get power and logic signals from the motherboard through the inverter cable. So, the light is not being powered. Why? Check the cable and the inverter connections first, then replace them one at a time. Most likely the inverter is a fault here, so buy one of those. It is the thin little circuit board that the backlight is plugged in to. If that doesn't work, then try the cable. Try and repost, good luck.

I know the 1150's have a power jack issue, we've fixed a huge amount of them. The one problem we haven't figred out is this. After some repairs to the power jack, the laptop will run on battery, it says that it is charging BUT, it is actually running off the battery. If the laptop is started with only the a/c adapter and no battery, the power and battery lights flash quickly, and the power supply clicks, and so does the motherboard just below the CD drive. we know that there is something overloading, we just haven't been able to figure it out without any motherboad schematics. All the solder joints are good at the power connector, and all the traces are either good or have been repaired. we do this sort of repair to the a/c jack pretty often, but are sick of seeing [I]this[/I] problem and not having a solution. If anyone has an actual schematic of the motherboard or a definite solution to this after-jack repair, then we'd love to see it.

New screen works great, thanks for the suggestions.

Thanks, I'll give a new screen a try and repost. Give me about a week though, for shipping and installation, prayers, alms and pennance...LOL

One of my kids caught the power cord and ( you know it) the laptop hit the floor. I caught it at the last second, so it didn't take a bad whack, but now the screen is all white. The laptop is fully functioning, and works on an external monitor. Before I buy a replacement LCD, I'd like to know if anyone has had this problem or incident before, or any advice. We've never had one of these in the store before, so I figured I'd get a little information before I tread on new ground. Any and all comments are appreciated. Thanks

Check the refresh rate, as well as the default resolution for that card against the supported modes for that monitor. If the card has a default setup that is not compatible with the monitor, then it will not wok. Check, and repost.

Step 1, switch monitors. ( I think it is the LCD panel personally)
If that fixes it, replace or repair that LCD Monitor. Do this and repost.

The backlight is failing. Replace it, or have it replaced.