Member Avatar for h8today

My PC is having problems...and by that I mean it crashed and wont turn back on (dead). Basically...it gives off the burning smell when you take off the case. I tried taking everything off the Motherboard (even the CPU), and just plugging in the Power Supply to it, and a single fan to see if it's running.

the power cuts out after 5 seconds, regardless of which PSU I use. I have a few around the house, and I actually went out and grabbed one to make sure. I hooked everything up to another MB...including the PSU, and it runs (but I cant do anything with it cuz it's not set up correctly to look on screen or anything)

I'm trying to figure out how easily I can just replace the MB and CPU...or if I need to build a whole new computer right now.

Current Specs (as well as I know them):
E-Machines T3256
Windows XP Home
160 GB 7200 RPM Hard Drive
512 MB AGP X1600 Pro
400W PSU
1GB DDR SDRAM (upgraded from 512)
AMD Athlon XP 3200+
Unknown motherboard (integrated GeForce4 MX)

I bought retail, so I dont have a disk for XP home...though I do have a copy of XP Pro

I wanted to replace with:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131232
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115052

Would that work?
part of what I'm worried about is switching from AMD to intel.
I'm also worried about spending 250+ on a new MB and CPU and that not being the problem
lastly, did you have any problems with your HDD from switching out everything? I'd like to keep the data on it if at all possible.

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Dani AI

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A burning odor combined with the PSU cutting out a few seconds after switch-on strongly points to a short or a failed power-delivery component on the motherboard (VRMs, MOSFETs, blown capacitors or a scorched trace). Since a different motherboard accepted the same PSU, the odds are high the original board is the culprit rather than the supply. Recommended diagnostic steps that keep safety first:

  • Remove the board from the case and place it on a non-conductive surface. Remove all cards, drives and non-essential connectors so the board is at minimum configuration.
  • Inspect carefully for bulging or leaking capacitors, cracked components, scorch marks, melted plastic, or discolored PCB around the power connectors and VRM area.
  • Check for misplaced standoffs or loose screws under the board that can short it to the case. A visible burn or damaged component is a solid indicator the board should be replaced.
  • If comfortable with basic electronics and with power removed, a quick continuity check between 12V/5V rails and ground can reveal a near-short; otherwise skip live electrical tests and seek a shop.

Data and platform-change notes: the hard drive itself is unlikely to be physically damaged by a failed motherboard and the data can usually be recovered by connecting the drive to a working PC or using a USB-SATA/IDE adapter or a Linux live USB. Swapping from one CPU family to another (AMD → Intel) requires a compatible motherboard and often different RAM type; the installed OS may refuse to boot or need a repair/clean install because of driver and HAL differences, so extract important files first.

Practical replacement considerations: as mentioned, many OEM cases use proprietary front-panel headers or unique mounting — plan either to re-pin connectors, use an adapter, or get a different case. For older OEM systems, sourcing a like-for-like replacement board (or having a damaged cap replaced) is often cheaper than a full platform change. If uncertainty remains or a strong burnt smell persists, professional diagnostics are recommended.

Member Avatar for HoustonIT

Generally manufacturers have a proprietary connection for the motherboard to the power button, front usbs, reset button, etc. If you aren't going to get a factory replacement you'll probably need to get a case as well as the new motherboard.

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