Member Avatar for Nightquest

Hi everyone!

I've got the KERNEL_DATA_INPAGE_ERROR with 0xC000000E code (STATUS_NO_SUCH_DEVICE) sometime, after using the Win XP for hours or for not so long. The error message is sometimes STACK, not DATA, and at the bottom of the sreen there is a filename, like ftdisk.sys, atapi.sys, etc.
Before the blue screen there is a very strange noise from the computer, and it lasts for several seconds. During it the machine freezes.
When I reset the machine, it didn't recognized the drives, only a shut down helped.
I tested my RAM, made virus, adware, spyware test, runned chkdsk, but no problem and I tested my HDD with the Maxtor diagnostic tool, and after a full read test it said, the disk is failing.
So, it's meaning a bad HDD without doubt, or it can be a data/power cable failure, motherboard failure, etc.?

Thanks for your answers in advance!

P.s.: It's a MAXTOR 6Y120L0, 2-3 years old.

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Given the combination of kernel in‑page faults, an audible clicking before the crash, and intermittent disappearance of the drive after a reset (as reported by ), the most likely problem is a hardware I/O failure. Mechanical failure of the disk is the top candidate, but intermittent power, a bad data/power cable, a failing controller or PSU can produce very similar symptoms. s comment that drives are electromechanical and fail over time is relevant: a vendor diagnostic that flags the drive should be treated as a serious warning.

Recommended immediate steps:

  • Create a read‑only image of the drive if data recovery is important (use tools like GNU ddrescue or a commercial imaging tool). Do not write to the failing disk.
  • Run the vendor's long/extended self-test (offline) and a SMART attribute read (look at Reallocated_Sector_Count, Current_Pending_Sector, and UDMA CRC errors). BIOS SMART OK is not definitive.
  • Swap the SATA/IDE data cable and the power connector and test the drive on a different port or another PC. Use a different PSU or a powered USB‑SATA adapter to rule out spin‑up/power issues.
  • Check Windows System Event Log for disk/controller I/O errors. Run memtest86+ for a few passes only if RAM faults still seem possible.

If a replacement HDD reproduced the fault for , the next logical checks are controller and power: connect a known‑good drive to the same controller and test the suspect drive on an independent controller or separate machine. Persistent clicking or growing SMART pending/reallocated sectors means immediate replacement and, for valuable data, professional recovery.

Final note: clicking noises and failed long tests generally indicate imminent mechanical failure. Backups and a replacement drive are the durable fix; diagnostics and controller/PSU checks help only when the drive itself proves healthy.

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Member Avatar for Nightquest

Some addition: if it helps, the PowerMax diagnostic code is: de9aa275

Member Avatar for zack0273

I'm running into the same issue with a Toshiba TS1. Did you get an answer on this?

Member Avatar for dcc

Does your BIOS recognize the SMART as good? If Power Max said it's dying...back up all your information you can and plan on buying a new hdd in the near future. I'm curious as to why the SMART system didn't give some indication of a failure. You might also look in the event viewer to see if there have been other disk events.

Member Avatar for Nightquest

My BIOS said that the SMART is okay.
I got several answer on other sites, and I decided to buy a new HDD. Since then the computer is okay. To be exact: when I put the old HDD back to my computer to get the datas from it, it made the noises again some times, but no freezing or else problems. So I'm sure, my HDD was failing, and I hope, only the elapsed time, not enough cooling from the beginning and the lot of usage was the cause.

Member Avatar for dcc

Hard drives are electromechanical devices, and they break down. At the risk of being a smart ass, the term for this type of failure is hysteresis. It doesn't really matter whether it was a Western Digital, Maxtor, or a Seagate, if you look at the failure rates of each major manufacturer and graph these I doubt you find anyone of them to be any worse than the other. I recently had my six year old 40GB hdd die, and the general consensus seems to be...go for the best deal with a major manufacturer.

Member Avatar for zack0273

I replaced the HDD already, and the same issue with less noise came back, I am now thinking its the controller. When the HDD was replaced the system was reimaged again, so two known images that are good were used. The system is under warranty still, so I am looking at sending it in for repair. Does anyone know a good utility to trobleshoot the controller itself, just to make sure. This is a Toshiba Tecra S1.

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