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I have a VS-7P that had a bad end I cut the plug and mapped the pins for the wires but some how missed the yellow. Does any one have the pins the colors corrispond to for KDS monitors? I also tore apart the original end for the monitor and it looks like there are other wires of varying colors that only go as far as the braided shielding soldered to the casing. These are mostly the middle set of pins (I don't have my "map" with me at the moment). Are these the "return ground" I have seen referred to on Google and am correct to just solder them to the new case with the shielded braiding? I can order a new cord for $20 from KDS as a last resort, but would preffer the satisfaction of repairing this on first.

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  • Latest Post Latest Post by TallCool1

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A few practical points to close the loop on this repair that expand on 's description and 's note.

Before soldering anything, map every conductor. With the monitor unplugged, use a multimeter on continuity/ohms to trace each inner conductor to its pin and each braid to the connector shell or a specific ground pin. Mark every wire and pin on paper or with tape. That will reveal whether the braided returns were all combined at the shell or returned to individual ground pins — and you should re-create whatever the original arrangement was, not guess.

When re-terminating, treat each braid as the shield/return for its inner conductor. Tin the braid carefully so it does not fray, solder the braid where it originally terminated (to the shell if it was soldered there, or to the corresponding ground pin if each braid was separate). Keep exposed inner conductor length short, preserve the braid around it as much as possible, and use heat-shrink and a proper strain relief to avoid flex fatigue. Use a small iron (25–40 W), rosin-core solder, and light flux to avoid cold joints.

Testing after reassembly: check continuity between all intended grounds and the shell, confirm no shorts between any signal and any ground, then power up with a known-good source at low brightness. If you see noise, color shifts, or intermittent contacts, recheck solder joints and shield continuity. If the cable uses individual coax for analog video, incorrect shield terminations or damaged braid impedance can degrade picture quality even if continuity looks OK — that is why a factory replacement is often the least risky choice.

If mapping or soldering feels uncertain, replacing the cord for $20 avoids potential damage and preserves video integrity.

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...it looks like there are other wires of varying colors that only go as far as the braided shielding soldered to the casing. These are mostly the middle set of pins (I don't have my "map" with me at the moment). Are these the "return ground" I have seen referred to on Google and am correct to just solder them to the new case with the shielded braiding? I can order a new cord for $20 from KDS as a last resort, but would preffer the satisfaction of repairing this on first.

Yes, those are signal return lines, grounded. Frankly, as a monitor repairman, I would go with the replacement cable. It's unlikely that that was the actual problem in the first place, though, unless it was a case of actual physical damage. Bad solder connections at the monitor end are much more common.

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