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I've looked through a few pages but I couldn't find anything related to my problem

Okay, I recently put together this PC:

Intel Core 2 QuadQ6600
Asus P5K
2GB Corsair PC2-6400C4
Western Digital Caviar SE16 500GB SATA-II
Thermaltake ToughPower 750W Modular Power Supply
x1900GT

When I turned it on, the fans span, the harddrive span, but only for a few moments before stopping and restarting. I examined it all and found I hadn't fastened one of the annoying plastic clippy things on the heatsink properly, so it wasn't making contact with the CPU. Figuring it must be overheating, I removed it, replaced the thermal paste and fitted it properly this time.

So now it turns on, everything works as it should, only I get no video output and no POST beeps. I tried a different monitor, a different video card I know works (x800gt), I tried each of the RAM sticks individually, I tried a different PSU...

I haven't tried setting it up outside the case, but I have used standoffs.

I had the motherboard tested and it works, so it's not a motherboard problem. I'm thinking I must have fried the CPU when the heatsink wasn't on right, but I don't want to believe that just yet. I can't see any physical damage to the CPU, and I thought there'd be error beeps if the CPU was the problem. I get beeps when I try to boot with no RAM so I know the speaker works fine

Any suggestions? I just want to get this working

Thank you! :)

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Dani AI

Generated

Useful follow-up and quick checklist for no-POST / no-beep builds (based on ’s thread and common causes)

A main ATX connector that looks “almost in” can and will stop the board from getting stable power. That often causes fans and drives to spin briefly or reboot loops while the CPU never reaches POST. No beep does not automatically mean a fried CPU — more often it’s a power/connection/short issue or the system halting before the BIOS can run.

Practical troubleshooting sequence (fast to slow):

  • Firmly reseat the 24-pin ATX and the 4/8-pin CPU power connectors until the latch clicks. A millimeter gap can matter.
  • Verify any PCIe GPU power plugs and that the GPU is fully seated in the slot.
  • Try a minimal boot outside the case (CPU+cooler, one RAM stick in the correct slot, GPU if no onboard video, PSU). This removes shorts from standoffs/front-panel wiring.
  • Inspect motherboard standoffs and the underside for stray screws or solder bridges that could short the board.
  • Clear CMOS (jumper or remove battery for a minute) and reconnect speaker/header so beep codes are audible.
  • Reseat CPU cooler and check socket area for bent pins (LGA) or damaged pads. If pins are bent, stop — repairing is delicate.
  • Swap a known-good PSU, RAM, or video card if available. If a motherboard-only POST LED or code display exists, use it.
  • If everything else fails, test the CPU in a confirmed-working board or have a shop bench-test the parts to isolate the faulty component.

Final notes: use steady, even pressure when plugging big connectors; avoid twisting or forcing clips in strange directions. Keep packaging and receipts until the system is stable so returns/replacements are possible. ’s outcome — seating the main power plug fully — is a very common, easily overlooked fix.

Member Avatar for LizE

We got it working!

I went over it all again with my brother. I'm not sure what we did differently, but it started perfectly first time. I think it could have been the big motherboard power connector - my brother was a little more daring that I was and put it in with more force. Thinking back, I got it in as far as I could but it wasn't as far in as my brother got it (a millimeter or so gap remained when I did it - I thought it was weird but I couldn't physically get it in any further). Windows is installing now, hurrah :)

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