Member Avatar for pritesh23

Hi all,

My laptop will simply not turn on. I took it to a friend and he had the same battery that I use and his battery worked on my laptop but would not charge. Thus, it can't be battery problems so I think it has to do with the DC input. I replaced the DC input with another one but that also did not do the job. Any other tips/advice?

Thanks in advance.

  • 3 Contributors
  • 2 Replies
  • 129 Views
  • 22 Hours Discussion Span
  • Latest Post Latest Post by JemB

Dani AI

Generated

Both and are pointing toward the same two areas to isolate: the external power path (adapter, jack, wiring, fuses) and the laptop’s internal power/charging circuitry. The following pragmatic checks separate cheap fixes from a likely motherboard-level failure.

  • Verify the adapter output with a multimeter at the barrel tip (with the adapter plugged in). The DC value should match the adapter label within ~10% and have the expected polarity.
  • Measure at the laptop side of the jack (or at the DC-in board connector) while the adapter is connected. If the adapter is good but voltage never reaches the board, the jack, cable, or an inline fuse is the usual culprit.
  • With the battery removed, press and hold the power button for 20–30 seconds to clear residual charge, then try powering with AC only. Look for any LEDs, fan spin, or drive activity — those are clues (standby rail present vs. totally dead).
  • If comfortable opening the case: inspect visually for burnt components, bulging caps, or a blown surface-mount fuse. Use continuity/diode checks to test the fuse and nearby power MOSFETs; replace a blown fuse only after finding the short that caused it.
  • If you can find the board’s service manual or connector pinout, check the standby rail (commonly a 5VSB test point). No standby voltage usually means input protection or regulator failure; standby present but no main rails points to VRM/MOSFET/EC power sequencing faults.

Cautions: use ESD protection, don’t short components, and don’t use an unknown bench supply without current limiting. If these tests point to a bad DC-in board, that’s often cheap to replace; widespread PCB damage or failed power-management IC usually means a motherboard swap or professional repair.

Recommended Answers

All 2 Replies

Member Avatar for mechbas

There are a lot of "ifs" in your post. The most noteable is the "iffy" power connector to your unit. Power connecters are usually reliable but will not last forever. It's obviously a connection that has failed to properly connect. The cable and/or the plug itself is bad.

Member Avatar for JemB

sounds like the charging circuit is fried.
this would explain why a charged batt will work but will not charge and why yours is dead.
I assume it will not run off mains either as the mains input will usually run through the charging circuit before powering the the motherboard.
Fraid it sound like a new motherboard unless your a dab hand at circuit level repair

Be a part of the DaniWeb community

We're a friendly, industry-focused community of developers, IT pros, digital marketers, and technology enthusiasts meeting, networking, learning, and sharing knowledge.