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Hi there, I've had troubles with my computer for the last three weeks or so, first background story. My hardware 3weeks ago:
MSI pt890 neo
Intel Pentium D 925
Geforce 7600 GT
2x 1GB DDR2 RAM

My computer crashed three weeks ago, and had some motherboard/cpu related heat issues, the mb wasn't recording heat signals properly. At this point my screen howeever was still working, albeit it always "overheating" in the Bios already. I narrowed the problem down to the motherboard and had it sent via retailer to MSI. They couldn't fix it, so they replaced it with a new motherboard, the MSI p31 Neo.

Now that I've received this MB, I haven't been able to see anything on my monitor, similar to this topic: http://www.daniweb.com/forums/thread59730.html
So my computer turns on, all fans running, doesn't crash for 20+minutes, however, no connection to monitor. I've tested both the monitor and graphics-card on different computers, and both work. Assuming that the motherboard I just received is working, where could the trouble be? Could the cpu have been damaged because of the false overheating signals? Why wouldn't it have had this problem with the old motherboard?
Thanks in advance.

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  • Latest Post Latest Post by Prometheus12345

Dani AI

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Building on 's connector and seating checks, here are targeted, next-level diagnostics and safe steps to narrow the fault when a system powers (fans spin) but shows no image.

Listen for POST and use the mobo diagnostics: fit a small chassis speaker or check the board's POST/LED codes. Beep patterns or LED sequences are the quickest clue to which subsystem (CPU, RAM, GPU) is failing — consult the motherboard manual for the exact meaning. If the board provides no codes, proceed to a minimal bench test.

Minimal bench checklist (power off, static-safe handling):

  1. Remove everything nonessential: leave CPU & cooler, one known-good RAM stick in the primary slot, and the GPU only if there is no onboard video. Use a single stick and try each stick/slot one at a time.
  2. Place the board on an insulated surface outside the case (cardboard) to rule out shorting from standoffs. Connect PSU, speaker and monitor, then power on to observe POST/beeps.
  3. Clear CMOS (jumper or remove the battery for a few minutes) before retesting to ensure default video and POST settings.
  4. Inspect CPU socket and cooler mounting: look for bent pins (LGA) or damaged pads, and confirm the cooler is seated correctly — severe thermal events can damage pins or the chip and stop POST.
  5. Verify the PSU is delivering stable rails (swap with a known-good PSU or measure with a multimeter). Also confirm any GPU auxiliary power connectors are actually connected when required.

If benching with known-good RAM, PSU and (if needed) GPU still produces no POST or diagnostics, the likely culprits are the CPU or the replacement board. Prepare for RMA or a parts-swap test (borrow a compatible CPU or board). Take ESD precautions at all times and avoid flashing BIOS unless you have a known-good recovery method; improper updates can render a board unbootable.

Member Avatar for Prometheus12345

As odd as it may sound, try the following with the power off:

Unscrew the retainer screws for the monitor cable, and check to see that all pins are in good order, then insert/remove the connector a few times (to attempt to clean the contacts). If any pin looks even slightly "off", try wiggling it. If the pin wiggles ANY (all pins should be as stiff as a corpse), there may be a broken connection in the connector itself, or the pin is broken somewhere past the base.

Check the output connector of the video card itself, as compared to the same connector *new*. In rare cases, it is possible that you unplug the monitor one too many times, and the connector is worn to the point that it does not make a reliable connection. Be sure the card is fully-seated from front-to-back, and secured with the chassis screw (sometimes used as a reliable ground).

Remove the video card, and check to see that the connection to the motherboard is clean. To be sure, use a *QUALITY* pink pencil-eraser that doesn't smudge on paper (if any part of the eraser surface can even remotely be called shiny, don't use it), and "erase" the dirt from both sides of the card. Clean with rubbing alcohol or contact-cleaner (approved for use on electric motors) and burnish with a clean piece of "typing paper", or plain unglossed *WHITE* printer paper by folding the card into it and rubbing back and forth a few times, until the rubbing turns up clean. Ensure that the card connections are *spotlessly* clean. If in doubt, use the eraser from a standard Berol-Mirado #2 wrinting pencil (commonly found in the right places; try art-supply stores if you are having trouble...better yet, seek a good pencil eraser from the same store). Double-check that the card slot is clean and clear, then reinstall the card.

BE SURE TO USE THE RETAINING SCREWS FOR THE CONNECTOR AT ALL TIMES! Never ignore these screws, as both are necessary to assure a perfect connection. Loss of a critical connection at the wrong time can damage the monitor and/or video card.

Try another monitor with the same setup, to eliminate the monitor as a suspect. Try a spare video card to eliminate your current video card. If both pass, then I'd take a hard look at your motherboard again, even though almost all video cards have a "default mode" they can run in to get a proper (read: useable) display, on default O/S drivers (if any). I have a gateway machine that is now scrap because a Voo-Doo card did it's voo-doo on it when it failed (hence the name), which destroyed the video section fo the MB and any machine the card is put into suffers the same fate. On the same token, nVidia cards fail about as often as the universe implodes....

Check to see that the monitor is actually getting the raw power it needs (is it plugged in?). Be sure that the connection to the monitor's power is secure, not just at the monitor, but at the wall itself. Too many people neglect to suspect the wall outlet, even though plugs will fall out of them if a flea sneezes in Guam. ALL connections should feel firm, especially power connections.

Odds are, after all this, you will at least have found a culprit. As far as I know, ALL monitors and ALL video cards have the ability to display to some degree, on a default level, if everything is working correctly. If the monitor is remaining in a standby mode, despite a boot (sometimes you'll hear a click from the monitor, or there will be some reaction when switching from DOS mode to Windows mode), the cable for your monitor may be suspect, especially if you move it relatively often.

Hope this helps to some degree.

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