Member Avatar for DDDDave

This is the first I've heard of Daniweb - it seems pretty cool. I found this while trying to find information on jumper functions for an old ESS 1969 pci sound card. I have a slim profile Gateway computer so nearly all PCI cards don't fit in it. I need a game port for using midi (the motherboard doesn't have one) and this was the only card I could get to fit (I had to break off part of it to make it fit). Anyhow it was working fine until I accidentally bumped off the only jumper on the card - and I'm not sure where it was. Without the jumper my onboard sound card won't work unless the ESS 1969 is taken out or the driver is uninstalled. Before, I had full function of my onboard sound card and was able to use the game/midi port of the ESS card at the same time. So far I've had no luck finding any info on jumpers for the ESS card - most web info on the card is related to drivers, which I don't need. ARRGH! Any ideas? Thanks.

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Dani AI

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Practical, step‑by‑step troubleshooting for (and anyone else chasing a lost jumper on an ESS1969 card).

First, safety and quick context: work with the card powered off and removed from the PC. Ground yourself (touch metal chassis or use an anti‑static wrist strap) before handling or soldering. A missing 2‑pin shunt or solder bridge is a very common cause of the behavior you describe; the jumper usually selects/isolates a function (audio enable vs. game/MIDI only or similar), so replacing or bridging the correct pads will restore the previous configuration.

Visual inspection and photos: examine both sides of the PCB near the bracket, the game‑port solder lugs, and any silk‑printed labels (JP, J1, J*, GAME). Use a bright light and a magnifier. Take high‑resolution closeups of the suspected area plus the whole card (top and bottom) and include a small scale object (coin) so helpers can judge size — this makes it far easier for the forum to advise, as suggested.

How to identify the correct pads safely: with the card out and unpowered, use a multimeter in continuity/diode mode to trace from each suspect pad to the game‑port pins and to nearby IC pins. That tells you which pads actually affect the MIDI/game connector (and which are VCC/GND — do NOT short those). Many older boards use either a tiny removable shunt, a 0Ω resistor, or a solder bridge; a careful bridging with solder, a tiny wire, or a small soldered header will replace the jumper. If it’s a 3‑pin selector, you must short the correct pair (middle-to-left or middle-to-right) as determined by tracing.

If you’re uncomfortable soldering, get one shop to tack a header or bridge it for you. As recommended, if you can’t identify the part or the board’s origin, note any FCC ID or markings (photograph them) so the OEM can be traced. If repair proves impractical, a low‑cost USB‑MIDI/interface is a reliable alternative for MIDI use without changing the card.

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Member Avatar for mechbas

The software was written by ESS Technologies, Inc., from what they're saying they didn't actually mfg. the card. Finding the jumper settings I had no better luck.
Remove card and write down and send VERBATIM the FCC ID number on the card. That will indicate the actual hdwr. mfg., they will have to be identified/contacted for the info that you want.

Member Avatar for caperjack

Anyhow it was working fine until I accidentally bumped off the only jumper on the card - and I'm not sure where it was. .

giving it was the only jumper on the board it should not be hard to figure out where it went ,can you take and post a picture of the board .
i know this is an older thread but who know !

Member Avatar for mechbas

oui, capper. there COULD be more than two pins.

Member Avatar for caperjack

oui, capper. there COULD be more than two pins.

i agree ,but not a hoho lot more

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