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I came accross this forum while looking for help with my KDS Avitron 21" monitor. The particular thread is this one: http://www.daniweb.com/techtalkforums/thread5042.html

I have about the same symptoms, except after flickering for about a week, my monitor just stopped showing the picture, instead of having the picture in swirls. I attempted the "easy" fix that was suggested by TallCool1, but it didn't seem to do anything (that is, assuming I pulled the right wires).

I have pictures available of the insides of my monitor, but I can't get my web hosting to work ATM. I can e-mail them to anyone who may be able to help. Of course, I will answer any other questions you may have.

Thank you.

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Short addendum based on 's timeline (flicker for a week, then gone) and the "easy" suggestion from @TallCool1: when a CRT degrades from intermittent video to no picture at all, the failure is most often in the power or high-voltage drive sections rather than a simple connector or external control. Below is a concise, safe troubleshooting checklist and a practical repair vs replace guide.

CRTs store lethal voltages even when unplugged. Do not probe the tube/anode or the high-voltage area unless qualified and properly equipped. General safety and hazard background is covered on the Cathode-ray tube page: Cathode-ray tube.

Practical diagnostic sequence: unplug and open for a careful visual inspection first — look for bulging or leaking electrolytic capacitors, burnt resistors, or obvious scorch marks; a puff of electrolyte smell is a strong sign of supply failure. Power the monitor briefly only if you know what you are doing and check whether logic rails are present on the main board (if the LED comes on or the board shows supply voltages, the main SMPS partially works). If the supply rails are dead, focus on the power board (fuses, rectifiers, and electrolytic caps are common faults). If rails are present but there is no raster, the horizontal output/flyback area or the video/deflection circuitry is the likely culprit. Background reading: Electrolytic capacitor and Flyback transformer.

Repair vs replace: replacing obvious bad electrolytics and resoldering cold joints is cheap and often successful; failures in the high-voltage/deflection stage or a damaged transformer are more difficult and expensive. For an older 21" KDS Avitron, weigh parts + time vs the price of a replacement display. If unsure, have a shop perform a powered diagnostic or recycle safely rather than risking a hazardous repair.

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I'm about to throw my monitor away, any final suggestions?

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