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Hi, I had a old USB mouse and it wasn't working so I took it over to my lab desk and I had a USB extender and hooked it up and put a power charge on the USB part and it made a little spark of electric and my computer restarted and now the motherboard acts like it doesn't work but when I open the case the motherboard's LED lights up but there's no connection to the Ethernet, USB, and no connection to the monitor. I've tried to put a other power supply in the computer nut still no connections to the USB, Ethernet, and monitor, I've also tried to disconnect everything and plug everything back in. My motherboard is a Nvidia Zotac and there's the USB,Ethernet, HDMI, and Monitor hook ups on the motherboard.

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Last Post by gerbil
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Your USB circuit could be fried, and a faulty USB can actually cause the BIOS to halt, I have seen a number of machines where the USB ports are broken that caused the same effect. not sure if you can actually get into the BIOS and disable the USB but I doubt that very much.

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Do you have anything usful that may help. Because the whole computer seems like it is just now a piece of crap, BUT. The whole system won't boot but the computer turns on fine, no beep, no error, and no nothing. The computer just won't boot up!

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Do you see teh BIOS and the usual POST details when you turn it on ? or just black from the time its turned on ?

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"the computer turns on fine, no beep, no error, and no nothing." If POST cannot start then there won't be any errors or beeps.
"old USB mouse and it wasn't working so I took it over to my lab desk and I had a USB extender and hooked it up and put a power charge on the USB part and it made a little spark of electric" ... From your description of what you did I cannot tell what happened, but you either fried a local power source/regulator or an interface/input buffer circuit. This is about when you check the warranty and beg for forgiveness, or check your bank balance. Frankly, considering technician hourly charges, mbs out of warranty are rarely worth investigating.
When we do something silly, realise it too late but don't get bitten we should always pause to celebrate quietly.

Edited by gerbil: n/a

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dimsums, The computer won't start the screen so I cant get into the BIOS or anything like that. It's still gives me a black screen.

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In that case, I think you are looking at a new board, if its under warranty, you may be able to RMA it as faulty.

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Yep, there is no point in trying to jump start a dead bios unless you are able to carryout surface mounted component repairs, but if under warranty RMA is the best option.
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You don't say which Zotac model. If Intel based with integrated graphics, or with a video card, it's rather hard to see how a USB-originated failure could affect that unless it has totally destroyed the southbridge.
With a board failure involving a spark [yikes] all you can try is to reset the CMOS memory, check vital auxiliaries like kb, mouse, monitor, memory and CPU in other compatible systems...

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I have plugged in USB's like wired mouse, keybord, and portable USB traveler (KINGSTON), and the monitor. The motherboard dosent show what model of Zotac it is I would have to remove the motherboard which I would not like to do. The motherboard's light showing the indecaction that it is on, BUT the whole computer will not work. That would probably mean that it has to do something with the power supply but I've already tried different power supply's, BUT I have a other computer similar to this computer should I just see if the motherboard works on this 'working computer.'

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Also what do you mean "reset the CMOS" I've already pulled the battery from the motherboard and put a new one in. Also I've already pulled the battery the first time and put it back in.

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Hi.... yes, pulling the battery for say, 5 minutes, will reset the CMOS, or there may be a jumper [perhaps beside the battery] to do it instantly. A minimum working set to test the mb would include just a memory stick, CPU, PSU and a monitor [plus a vid card if no integrated graphics]... just those should allow you to see the POST if the mb is good. If then the monitor remains dark there is a critical failure that we may only guess at.
I note your point about the power indicator lamp - they generally show that several supplies are all in range.
PSU = power supply..

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