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LS2204037 Ver 2.0 POWER SUPPLY BOARD FOR LOGIK 24dvdb19 (ref N480) won't turn on

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For — short, practical guidance that expands on the earlier replies from and .

Basic safety and first checks. Mains SMPS boards store lethal voltage even after unplugging. Work only if comfortable with mains electronics. Always unplug, wait, then discharge the large electrolytics or leave that to a qualified repairer. Visually inspect the board first: bulging or leaking electrolytic caps, scorched areas, cracked solder joints around large components, and any blown on‑board fuses.

A compact diagnostic checklist (tools: multimeter, basic soldering kit, optional ESR meter or dim‑bulb limiter)

  1. Check the board fuse(s) for continuity.
  2. With power removed, do a diode/continuity check on the bridge rectifier and primary MOSFETs/transistors.
  3. Look for high ESR or bulging electrolytics; replacing all primary electrolytics with low‑ESR, high‑temperature equivalents is a common, low‑risk repair.
  4. If safe to power for testing, use a dim‑bulb limiter or isolation transformer. Confirm the standby rail (usually a small 3.3–12V supply) appears on the connector to the main board. If standby exists but main rails do not, suspect switching MOSFETs, the switching transformer, or the SMPS controller IC. If no standby, the primary startup network (NTC/start resistor, startup diode, or controller) is likely at fault.

Repair tips and practical notes. Capacitor replacement and reflowing solder on heat‑cycled components fix many failures. MOSFETs and diodes are replaceable but require correct part matching and careful soldering. SMPS controller ICs and transformers are harder to source/replace; at that point replacement boards become more attractive. When buying a replacement, match the exact part number and revision and verify connector pinouts and mounting to avoid surprises. Clear, well‑lit photos of the board markings and connector are usually sufficient to confirm compatibility.

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I'm on my phone so I can't easily google what you're talking about, but I wasn't under the impression that power supplies could be easily repaired.

I Googled it, and the first hit was for a replacement board on eBay costing very little (UKP 15) - so I would think replacing rather than repairing would be the way to go.

commented: But also get a new power supply for the replacement board. +14
commented: At UKP 15, you might not be able to buy parts and solder, solder iron to fix it! +12
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