Posts by techsheaven

Well, the most significant thing is your BDP (Bandwidth-delay Product). This just confirms what you already know - that data transfer on one machine is different than the other (and substantially). Though I am Net+ certified, I wouldn't say I know all the variables that come into play to calculate the BDP. We do know that there is a bottleneck or two in the data transfer though. We also know that is is at your location! Take a look at the patch cables. I assume they are CAT5, or CAT5E Are they the same type?

Now run the optimizer on the slow PC and do some more speed tests (I would not mess with the fast one yet - we need to use it for a guide to changes in the network speed.)

Sounds fun... And I like prizes!

Why don't you use this TCP/IP analyzer:

Go to http://www.speedguide.net/index.php
Point at the top, there is a tiny link named Broadband
Point to Broadband Tools
Select SG TCP/IP Analyzer

Do this on each PC, scroll down to the results and post each here (You will be doing this for the benefit of others since the issue may be clear).

Now you can repeat the process EXCEPT select the SG TCP/IP Optimizer. It will be important to save the file rather than running it!!! UAC will cause it to fail if you just run it!

-Save the Optimizer noting the location (I recommend re-directing it to the desktop so you can find it).
-Right-click and Run As Administrator (It will show your current settings).
-Select the Optimal Settings bullet at the bottom.
-Click to apply changes.

Your throughput will not match exactly, but if you take the average of 3 or 4 on each machine, they should be pretty close.

Remember too, not all network adapters are created equal, neither are CAT5(e) patch cables.

I can't wait to see what your results are!

Good Luck

Ok, I need the Stop Error. Would you post it?

When Windows encouners a problem, it will restart by default. If the system encounters an error durring shutdown, it will revert to the default behavior of restart. I suspect this is the case with your machine. Please take note of any errors and post them here. For now, there is a work-around:

Click Start
Right-click My Computer
Select Properties
On the Advanced tab, click Settings under Startup and Recovery.
Under System Failure, if the Automatically restart check box is checked, uncheck it.
Make sure the box is checked to write a log file.

I expect that this will not resolve the issue, but it will log an error and shut down, hang (just stop), or bluescreen. Let us know what does happen, and post the results. Then we will look at the next step.

Good Luck,

techsheaven

The first thing to do would be to uninstall the driver and software and re-install it. If you don't have the disk, try the following link:

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/siteHome?lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us

Post your results when you are done.

Good Luck.

Great -- Glad you were able to work it out. Don't forget to mark the thread a solved!

Colisu:

Let's start with some clarifying questions:

What is the model of your wireless print server, and what do you expect its role should be on the network?

What type of printer do you have, and how is it connected to the network?

To plug it in to your PC is to say, "I want to print through my PC." Is this what you intend?

There are many reasons you could be getting this type of error, but I would say the best practice is to use a good anti-virus and (even if you do not use it) keep Internet Explorer up-to-date and clean.

My best guess without more info is that you are using an bad add-on.

Post a HijakThis Log and I will try to sort it out for you.

http://download.cnet.com/Trend-Micro-HijackThis/3000-8022_4-10227353.html

http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/565w213d.aspx

Any idea on how to connect the hard drive out of that machine to one of my laptops

Yes. You need to get one of these (follow link):

The adapter you would use would be like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Combo-Drive-Co.../dp/B002AQ9JGI

There are many brands though -- Google "IDE to USB adapter" and click shopping.

Good Luck

This is one of those cases where I would love to get my hands on that machine. Yes, I am still willing to help, but you probably have a bad mainboard. You can get the whole computer for under $100US on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/DELL-Dimension-4550-P4-2-0GHz-1GB-RAM-Parts-or-Repair_W0QQitemZ310212889623QQcmdZViewItemQQptZDesktop_PCs?hash=item483a210c17

The adapter you would use would be like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Combo-Drive-Converter-Adapter-Supply/dp/B002AQ9JGI

Good Luck!

Ideally, the lights should be off, flash a bit, then go to all green.

Correction/crarification: The lights should come on, but will NOT be all green in this case!

You should have the front panel lights and switches attached, the processor, heat-sink and CPU fan (which I think is also the case fan with green shroud), the power supply to the motherboard and that's about it. Ideally, the lights should be off, flash a bit, then go to all green. With the RAM out, you should get 3 beeps.

When removing your AGP card (which Dell recommends to do every time you change RAM), be sure to note the tab at the end of the card that needs to be pressed. There is no on-board video in this system, so you we hope to verify that the POST is initiating (though it will not complete since it will not find the minimum 128mb of RAM.

Did you try resetting the bios yet? It will involve removing the cmos battery.
You can also try setting the bios to it's default values in the bios menu.

As crunchie says, removing the CMOS battery, waiting a minute, and putting it back in will reset the BIOS to the default setup values. This is a cell about the size of a US Quarter. You can remove it by pushing the retainer spring and allowing it to pop out (sometimes you have to lift it out).

You will not be able to access the BIOS menu because you cannot see it (unless you've memorized the key strokes).

If that gives you video, you're on you way to getting back in business; if not, the next step is to remove PCI cards, hard drives, external devices, video card -- anything that can hang the system.

The idea is to get the motherboard to it's basics: Processor, RAM, Power Supply. You should get lights in rear -- that's the goal. If this is unsuccessful, we will pull even the RAM (should give you A=green B,C,D=yellow).

Okay, great! The next step is to determine is one of the RAM modules was damaged. The RAM slots should have markings near them to indicate the first slot; they may be marked 1 and 2 , 0 and 1 or A and B. disconnect the power, pull the second module, try to boot. If you get not POST information, switch the one thats in with the one you pulled. Always remember to use precautions to prevent ESD. Observe what does happen -- even if it does not completely boot.

Type to you soon.

About the RAM:

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim4550/specs.htm#1103227

About the POST Codes:

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim4550/advanced.htm#1211091

I expect this system to boot after properly seating the original RAM module. The system can use a maximum of 1024MB Ram as follows:
128-, 256-, and 512-MB non-ECC DDR SDRAM (some buffered RAM may work, but buffering would be disabled). One module of 1GB will not work as the max for each slot is 512MB.

I need more information. Please put the original RAM in the original bank. Make sure the slot and RAM are free of dust. turn on the machine and observe what happens. Are there any beeps? What do the lights do? Can you hear the Hard drive working? Are the fans turning? There are four diagnostic lights on the back; please tell us what color is associated with each (A,B,C and D). Each light will be off, yellow, or green.

Try to take it one step at a time. Give me the information I request, and I will be able to help you find the problem. The answers to the questions may lead to more questions, but I am not trying to waste your time -- they are important. I've make a best guess (wrong RAM type) which we have done. With components configured as they were when it last worked, we have the best starting point for troubleshooting. This does not eliminate ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) damage to the RAM modules.

Hope to hear from you soon.

Just to clarify.. You are adding system RAM not Video RAM?

I would put the original RAM back in as a troubleshooting measure.

I believe this system takes PC2700, so your are installing pc2700, or pc3200 and NOT PC2100 -- Right?

Do you get any POST beep codes?

QuickBooksDev,

Glad I could help.

When you are sure you have the issue resolved, be sure to mark this thread as solved.

techsheaven

Go to the device manager and open the properties for the mouse device driver. On the power management tab, un-check the "Allow this device to wake the computer" check-box.

As the link in a previous link indicated, you will need to Right-Click Computer, select Properties, select device manager, click the device manager, right-click the device (mouse), select properties. On the Power Management Tab, Uncheck the "Allow this device to wake the computer" check-box, click OK, and that should be it!

The mouse will not wake the PC from any Power Management state.

Sorry, that's Sleep in Windows 7 and they are different!

You are beginning to see why I don't fool with hibernation. There are a lot of variables. Since you require it, we will sort it out.

First, make sure your BIOS is up to date and all your devices are Windows 7 compatible and up to date.

Next, configure your power plan so there is no screen saver (I know, this is not a PM item, but has been known to interfere), no sleep, and no hibernation. Once your are sure that the system will stay on, THEN enable hibernation but disable all of the wake options except the power button. These are in the advanced power options.

I configured my machine to behave exactly as you want yours to, but it is a laptop with the default configuration, and the screen saver is enabled. So, It goes into Screen Saver, then to Sleep, then to Hibernate. When I power up it does the Power On Self Test, then resumes Windows 7 (x86 Enterprise Edition). So If tweaking the settings does not resolve the issue, I would look at the Hardware Compatibility List and maybe run SigVerif to get an idea of what drivers may be unsigned.

What happens when you put it in Hibernate manually? Is Standby and Screen Saver turned on? What are the timings on your power plan?

To turn hybrid sleep on or off:

Click Start > Control Panel > System and Maintenance > Power Options.

On the Select a power plan page, click "Change plan settings" under the selected plan.

On the Change settings for the plan page, click "Change advanced power settings."

On the Advanced settings tab, expand Sleep, expand Allow hybrid sleep.

Click Setting, click the arrow, and then click On/Off.

Click OK, and then click Save changes.

I would shutdown if you are going to unplug. don't forget that Win7 offers "Hybrid Sleep." This is designed for desktops.

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/Sleep-and-hibernation-frequently-asked-questions

Good Luck

Sorry, I didn't notice that it was a desktop.

Follow the link and read the article. See the part about how to disable the wake from hibernate from mouse.

Do this:
Run DeviceManager (devmgmt.msc).
Select your mouse and select the properties.
Now go to the power options tab.
Uncheck the checkbox "Allow this device to wake up the PC".

Even though it acts like standby from your XP days, don't let yourself get stuck on that idea.

Piece of Cake! Hope this helps.

First, I would recommend shutting down rather than Standby or Hibernate. In fact, I disable these on all my machines because I am either using them, or I am not. Though Hibernate allows you to resume a windows session quicker than a full startup, it can have it's own set of issues. But... to each his (or her) own:

http://www.vistax64.com/tutorials/63567-power-options-sleep-mode-problems.html

There are a lot of options for putting a laptop into sleep, hibernation, or shut-down. There are also many options for waking a computer from each state. The link above will get you started. Let us know if we can offer any more help.

Glad we could help. Don't forget to mark the thread as solved.

Did you use the semantic firewall? When you uninstall Norton, it usually asks if you want to turn on Windows firewall. . . But was windows firewall configured for Firefox? It will be configured automatically if it is running when you (re)install Firefox.

Try reinstalling and see what happens.

How you uninstalled FireFox and re-intstalled?

I can only guess at the solution since here was not answer to the clarifying questions.

Set default mail program:
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/Change-which-programs-Windows-uses-by-default

Do you have a good (and stable) wireless signal? Don't be fooled by the fact that you can get a page as it may be cached (stored on your computer). Navigating to pages you have not been to is the test!

Would you post your hijackthis.exe report?

Here are some general troubleshooting procedures:

http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx/kb/906602

To get more specific, we would need the installation error code (explained in above link).

If you get stuck, post back here and we'll try to help. I guess it should be noted that downloading the full install package from Microsoft and installing it will often work even when the automatic version doesn't.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.NET_Framework

Good Luck

http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/37636/Toshiba_Satellite.html

Try the link above. Scroll down to:

Download >> To download the file, please, click here ! << Download

Is this your Laptop Service manual? It has some great troubleshooting flow charts and disassembly instructions.

It sounds to me like the system is switching power profiles. I know you said you have replaced the power cord, so I shouldn't have to ask if there is physical damage to it (cuts, bumps, twists, etc.). That puts us right back to the power jack. Are there bent, broken, or corroded pins? There should be strong contact between connections. What abou the wall outlet? Is it tight when you plug in?

Is there a light in the power "brick?" When the laptop stops charging is the light on or off?

If you replace your power plug, make sure it has the same output voltage and at least the same amperage as the original equipment. Didn't you say you already replaced it?

If it gets down to your motherboard, pay close attention, as you diesassemble the laptop, to connectors. I have repaired many laptops by simply re-seating loose connections (I suspect this may be the issue with your video too).

I want to key-in on a symptom you mentioned in passing, "those annoying stutters." This sounds like a symptom of a bad power jack... Will you tell me mor about "those annoying stutters?"

Charge the battery as much as you can and then see if it holds a charge out of the laptop for about 6 hours. Battery cells can short out in such a way that they draw more amps than the converter ( power adapter ) can produce.

If you return the battery to the laptop and it is substantially lower than when you took it out - it IS the battery.

Let us know what you find out. I know we have not discussed your video issue yet!

Good question.

I have seen power jacks do strange things. Most of the time, someone calls and says, "My kid tripped over my power cord and now I have to put tape and a rubber band on it to make it work." This is the classic power jack failure.

Anther time, someone asked me to look and her laptop because it would run on the power cord but the battery would not charge, nor would the indicator light come on. She bought a new battery and it would not charge either. She charged the batteries in a friends computer and it would run on them! I took it apart and noticed the solder was cracked. one touch with a soldering iron fixed it.

In your case, I think the connector may be barely on, so high amperage can not pass (as when the battery is low and drawing more) but low amperage can. If I'm right the battery is acting as a buffer for the fluctuating power. If you run the machine without the battery, and it seems to run fine, but suddenly shuts down, it may be that. It could be other things, but I go to the most likely component.

The military uses this approach with the idea that it is better to have an aircraft with a probable fix rather than no fix. We are on step one of what could be many.

Are you talking about the scrollbars? The code you pasted has elements I do not recognize. If I get the source from your website, it looks different and I can follow it. You must be using some tool to edit it.

What would you like to change?

Got it! For those how must know:

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/970313

It was fun troubleshooting this with you, ellaguru2u! Don't forget to mark the the thread as solved!

Did each adapter have a different default gateway?

I'm a bit confused. It says the default gateway is 0.0.0.0 then under that it says 192.168.1.1. Hmmm and you say it is up?! How can this be? Is automatic configuration enabled?

F8 will bring you to the advanced boot options. To enter BIOS, you usually tap delete key on startup within a specific window of time (a few seconds). If you read the first screen that appears when you turn the system on, it will usuallly tell you the key to press for your system. Other common keys are F1, F2, F10. Rather than BIOS, it may be called "Setup."

Once in the BIOS you will look for the Boot Order.

Will you be posting the ipconfig info so we can help resolve this thread?

Right! Sorry - Paste it into a text document (notepad) and save it to a flash drive, or other media. Or just type it. We are most interested in the status of your devices, the IP addresses and the default gateway address.

Hold the phone. After I shot off my mouth, I was going to look up some links for you. I found out that your jack is not soldered in, but plugs in! I t may be loose inside!

Is this yours? http://www.laptopjacks.com/view_part/Toshiba-P100-ST9762-Laptop-DC-Power-Jack-TS422500.html

Though it's more expensive than others (about $30US) it requires no soldering.

The most common issue with charging is the socket where your power adapter plugs in. Power down the system and remove the battery. While a plug in it's socket may or may not be loose, that is NOT what we are looking for. Apply a small amount of pressure to the socket to see if it is loose. Often, the solder will break an simply needs to be re-soldered. Sometimes the socket itself is broken (I suspect this is the case with yours); the part will cost only a few bucks, but taking the machine apart may take hours.

If the socket seems solid, leave the battery out, connect the power cord and boot the system -- Tell us what you find out!

To post ipconfig info, click Start -> All Programs -> Accessories and Right-click Command Prompt. Select "Run as Administrator." Click Continue in the UAC window. In the Command window, type "ipconfig" (without the quotes) and you will get an output like this:

Microsoft Windows [Version 6.0.6002]
Copyright (c) 2006 Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved.

C:\Windows\system32>ipconfig

Windows IP Configuration

Ethernet adapter Wired LAN:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :

Wireless LAN adapter Wireless Network Connection:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . :
IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.xxx
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.1

Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 7:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :

Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 9:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
IPv6 Address. . . . . . . . . . . :
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . :
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : ::

Tunnel adapter Local Area …

Here is some information.

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/318380

While I believe thy are trying to keep your business while they sort out the problem, you may want to make sure you have all your updates from Microsoft. Again, I think changing your system would be "barking up the wrong tree."