Posts by Chaky

Does it do this on all thread pages or just some of them? Exactly which browsers and which OS's? Can you get it to work with a different browser?

Forgot to mention:
XP Pro SP2
IE 6

No other browsers/OSes

P.S. I've hit 1000 posts mark. Yee!

Seems like a hardware failure. Either you have dead HD, optical drive, IDE cable or IDE controller. First 3 can be replaced. Last one is embedded in the motherboard.

My first bet is optical drive. They have the shortest lifespan.

Are you sure that the drives are not disabled in BIOS?
Did you make any changes on your Dell recently?

You are unable to boot up, correct?
Is there a switch on the PSU?
Did you try switching it off?
Did you try unplugging the whole thing off the A/C power?

Looks like your PSU has shorting protection that is activated. Only way to reset it is to unplugg the mains.

money

It was on the homepage and Quick Reply box only. Come to thihink of it, it seems to be connected to that "is the daniweb helpful?" box.

Now, it's back to normal.

Still no notifications....

inmate

Is it still happening?

Yup. And still no notifications.

Edit: 1000 words more.

I'm not familiar with Acer TravelMate 2300 (nor any Acer TravelMate), but I can tell you this:

There are other ways to get rid of the BIOS password. There are some programs that can crack the password, you can flash BIOS or you can clear CMOS.

Flashing the BIOS is one way of clearing the CMOS. You can clear the CMOS with jumper (general info, I'm not sure about Acer TravelMate), or (on some boards) trough the flashing program.

crime

Last week, but I'm not sure since I didn't log on for some time before that.

One more thing... I'm not getting any notifications today.

Here's the layout:

2 PC's (Windows XP - Windows 98), connected via LAN (Xlink cable). All drivers/clients/services/protocols up and running. On the XP side is NVIDIA's firewall.

All went well until I've done some changes on the Win98 PC that required me to pull out the LAN adapter. After I plugged it back in and booted windows, it reinstalled the card's drivers and since then I'm unable to access XP side (vice-versa). I've tried entering new IP address into the firewall permissions, shutting down the firewall, changing to IP address to "Automatic", uninstalling all drivers/protocols/services/clients and reinstalling them, but without results.

For the record: Connection is established (adapters work) but there is no accessibility whatsoever.

They say that the picture is worth 1000 words.... Here are 2000 words.

Try removing the battery while A/C is unplugged. That way you'll clear the CMOS. After that you can try to boot it normally.

crap

"Stop!!..error @ OxAE......." (please, fill in the blanks, as these numbers are vital info)

Quick tip:
Try booting from the XP install CD and choose "-r" for the recovery console (in case this is XP or 2k)

In the recovery console type:

chkdsk /r

When it finishes type:

exit

and boot normally.

If that doesn't help, try one of these:

fixboot c:

or

fixmbr \Device\HardDisk0

Note that:

- these are valid only if the problem HD is primary master (for the fixmbr command (HardDisk0)) and/or with drive letter C (fixboot command). If we're talking about secondary master, then you would need to change the drive letter in the fixboot command and/or number in the "HardDisk0" parameter.

- both are last resource commands, for they can screw up the partitions. Use them at your own peril.

If none of these help, you will need to reinstall the windows. (try without formatting the disk to avoid loosing stuff that piled up in 5 years time)

deep

Not from an email, but I found this page kind of interesting:
http://www.prosoundweb.com/fun/jokes/joke48.shtml

Apology accepted.

This looks like a virus problem. You should post a hijackthis log.

How about this one:

"This is Albanian worm. Due to lack of fundings we were unable to produce a real worm so, please, delete one file and forward this message."

That is not hard to rule out either.
You should check if the fan and heatsink of your VGA is clogged with dust. (or spinning at all)

For that kind of shutdown to happen you need to be playing heavy 3D stuff. My VGA slows down when it reaches 115 °C (GeForce 7800 GT) but it never goes above 60 °C. That might be because of the technology used to make 7800 and the fact that I got NV Silencer instead of the retail heatsink-fan, but, nevertheless 115 °C is fairly high temp to reach just by streaming video.

Possible. That is fairly easy to rule out. Just install SP2 (that is, if it doesn't shut down while installing it).

I'm afraid not. It is embedded in the CPU. If the CPU's warranty hasn't expired, you can replace the CPU without expenses.

To give you a picture of how it should be:

I have AMD Athlon64 3700+ (working at 2200 MHz) and Thermaltake Golden Orb II fan and heatsink. Idle temperature (I'm reading it now) is 34 °C. If the heatsink and fan were retail, the temp would be ~10 more, so I guess that your 46 °C is within acceptable limits for a idle temp.

I'm starting to suspect the temperature diode. Either it is reading the temperature wrong, or there is separate diode for shutdown that is being triggered at the wrong temperature (50°C right?). I suggest that you use the warranty on CPU (if it is custom made) or whole desktop (OEM).

If your warranty has expired, only permanent solution (except replacing the CPU) would be to install big 'n bad CPU fan and heatsink. (no more than $30). That would keep your CPU's temp. 10 °C lower than it is now, so the shutdowns wouldn't occur or they would be infrequent.

It would be a (necessary) first step only if there is no warranty label on the cover that says "warranty void if this label is damaged".

I take that this is not custom made desktop. Maybe your best solution is to use the warranty to get your shut-down problem fixed by people (usually the same people that sold you the desktop) that are obligated to fix non-working desktops (your's qualify as one if it shuts down for no reason).

If not, you will have to take the cover off and clean the heatsink and CPU fan. Also inspect for any noise coming from the fan. If you can hear the noise, it will need replacing. That's where the "serious cooling solution" comes in handy. They are cheap and make great job with cooling the CPU. Much better than the retail ones.

And the mobo model is.....? (Asrock xxxxxxxx)

I've browsed trough the some Asrock mobo manual, and all I see is ability to enable or disable the CPU Quiet fan (Cool'n'Quiet thingie) at H/W Monitor. Setting the temp. threshold is not mentioned, so I guess it is not an option there. Maybe newer BIOS offers that option, but that is a stretch. My only advice to you is to get some serious CPU cooling solution. If you already have some Zalman or Thermaltake, then the installation of the fan is in question there. Remember that the thermal paste film must be THIN and the heatsink must be TIGHT.

CPU's usual high limit is 70 °C, but the temp. shouldn't exceed 50 °C while idle. BIOS layout differs from model to model. Sometimes it is under "power management" or "hardware monitoring" menu. Sometimes it is under the general "Advanced settings". Maybe if you post the motherboard model and BIOS manufacturer (Award or AMI) I could give you specific location of the temp.

BTW Chaky, long time no see. Don't see a lot of you around here nowadays. ;)

Christmas, best friend wedding, new year and lots of hangovers.....(where's that aspirin?), but I'm back in the game now.

You quoted me. And I like being around ladies. That's my "orientation".

I'm not entirely IT, i'm more Computer Engineering but i'm femaile and it seems that there are a few guys out there who aren't quite sure of their orientation...

.... and like other females, you got me completely lost.:?:
(What orientation?)

Pity that England and Ireland have glitches, otherwise, English ppl would know what a good lager tastes like (Guinness).

I would hardly call it a "beer", that yellow liquid thing that you guys drink in US.

Only real danger with overclocking (CPU or VGA) is overheating. If you have some decent CPU/VGA cooling solution, if you know your way around BIOS and if you are not afraid to open up the case to reset the CMOS (switching 1 jumper back and forth), you have nothing to worry about. Experiment all you want.

After long and painful correspondence with AMD experts, I've finally got my confirmation:

THE FORMULA IS TRUE!!!!!

It is like line to use the restroom during halftime of the beer drinking contest.

You can't just copy over a windows files from another computer, since the key system drivers are set to work on specific hardware. (unless 2 PCs are identical)

Only thing you can do is reinstall the windows.

P.S. You will need to delete the win.com file in order to reinstall the windows.

Maybe you should take a look at the CPU fan and heatsink. You haven't solved a problem. You just bypassed a shutdown. Problem is CPU's temp going up on, what you described, low-end game. My money is on the dirty heatsink and dying fan.

My best friend got married 2 days before Christmas, so naturally, we made one jumbo party that lasted 4 days. Christmas, kind of, got covered there.

With exploded PSU it is unnecessary risk to even turn the PC on.

Just paste the log here. If you are uncertain about some file/process, just google it and see what comes up.

First (and, hopefully. the last) step would be to replace the PSU. If it exploded, that's it. It won't come back to life now.

How about the person that you got the machine from?

If I got it right, you started to install the XP, but when it rebooted (after copying the files), nothing happened, right? Try disabling advanced power management in your BIOS. That is common problem with all windows up to XP. (dunno 'bout vista)

BTW, you should stick to the w98. It is more appropriate for your machine.

CD/DVD devices have 2 sets of lenses. One for DVDs and one for CDs. It may just be that your CD lens/circuitry went dead on you, or it is simply dirty. You can always use lens brush CD. Preferably, one that has brushes in the inner circle of the CD (unlike Phillips CD lens cleaner that needs to be read first, then run the 14th track).

There is a jumper (usually near the CMOS battery) that clears the CMOS. Switch the jumper and wait about 10 seconds, then switch it back. That should take care of the checksum error. You might need a BIOS upgrade.

What a coincidence! I look like me as well.

No, you don't. I look like me, not you. You look nothing like me.

my avatar pic was taken when I was 17 and the pic in my profile when I was 20. I'm 24 now.

You didn't change much.

Scan saved at 8:46:29, on 1/12/2549

Looks more like a stardate from star treck.

If you can get your hands on some other known good VGA to test the motherboard (i.e. with all parts plugged in) you will be able to determine which one is faulty. I take that the memory is OK.

8 beeps stands for "Display Memory Read/Write Failure" which means either the VGA is fried or it needs to be reseated (which is already done)
2 beeps stands for "Memory Parity Error in first 64KB block" that can be triggered by wrong BIOS settings for the memory. Usually means that the memory is gone as well (unless you experimented on memory, like mixing the brands or OCing).

My advice is to test the VGA and memory on another machine to determine whether those 2 are faulty or whether it is the motherboard malfunction.

If there is any hardware faliure, it is logged in event viewer (application or system branch). In the "run" menu type eventvwr and post any suspitious events ("error" type).