Member Avatar for SpaceViking

I recently purchased said case, and i connected the Power SW, Reset SW, HDD LED and Power LED the way my motherboard manual instructed, maybe i did it wrong, but i believe the white crosses on some pegs means Positive which is usually the colored wire, right?. My motherboard is a MSI K9A2 CF-F V2 AM2+. I connected my PSU which is an Antec 1000Watt to the Main power and the Cpu power, and i even tried out my old 600Watt NZXT, and both of them don't work. The computer just doesn't turn on at all, no lights or anything... Any suggestions?

Heres some pics, tell me if you need better ones. I'll check this thread often, i'll try and upload better pics asap if needed.

[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t227/virtuoism777/CIMG1591.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t227/virtuoism777/CIMG1592.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t227/virtuoism777/CIMG1596.jpg[/IMG]

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Dani AI

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Building on the suggestions from , and , the next focused checks are: confirm the exact front‑panel pin assignment (don’t guess polarity), verify the PSU’s standby rail, and rule out a chassis short from standoffs or stray screws.

The MSI manual shows the JFP1/JFP2 front‑panel layout for the K9A2 CF family — power switch is the pair PWR_SW (pins 6 and 8), reset is RST_SW (pins 5 and 7) and HDD LED is HD_LED (pins 1 and 3). Switches are polarity‑insensitive; LEDs must be oriented correctly. Use the exact pins from the manual when testing or when shorting the power pins to bypass the case button. (MSI front‑panel diagram.)
MSI K9A2 CF user manual

If shorting the correct PWR_SW pins still produces nothing, bench‑test the PSU standalone: perform a safe jumper/paperclip test to force the unit on and measure the +5VSB (purple) pin on the 24‑pin connector — +5V standby should be present whenever the PSU is plugged in. If +5VSB is absent the PSU is the likely fault; if +5VSB is present but the board still shows no signs of life, the motherboard is the suspect. Follow a multimeter or PSU‑tester workflow rather than guessing. (How‑To‑Geek guide.)
How to test a PC power supply (How‑To‑Geek)

Also inspect the case/motherboard fit: ensure only the required standoffs are fitted (no extra standoffs/screws touching the PCB), the I/O shield isn’t bending pins, the 24‑pin and CPU 4/8‑pin connectors are fully seated and undamaged, and check the underside of the board for stray metal. The Thermaltake manual notes proper standoff/installation practice for the VH6000 series. If there are visible burns, popped capacitors, or no +5VSB on a known‑good PSU, assume board failure and consider RMA/repair.
Thermaltake VH6000 manual (case leads/standoffs)

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Member Avatar for HoustonIT

Is the case the only thing new? If the case connectors are hooked up right it's either a case (pwr button) issue or a mb issue.

Member Avatar for longscope

Last time I did a build I had the power and the reset connections reversed... double check your connections and see if that works.

If not, you can always pull and re-seat the ram, video, etc.

Member Avatar for loki_

to cancel out the power button use a screwdriver to turn the pc on, if this does not work then there is either something wrong with the psu or the mobo,seeing as both power supply do not work the that leaves the mainboard, take the mainboard out of the case and start it up on a anti static bac or something(use the screwdriver again) and c if it come on,if this does not work with either one of the power supplies then i am afraid that the mainboard maybe damaged(worst case scenario)

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