Hi all, I hope you are well. My notebook appears to be overheating:
I have a Toshiba Satellite Pro p100 PSPAE which has two intel Centrino Duo processors - T7200. I am using Real temp 3.0 to display my temperature readings, and at idle (with only Firefox open) I am getting readings of 65 C, but if I play F.E.A.R. , which is quite a graphically intensive game, I get readings around 90C, at which point I have to stop playing as the notebook will shut itself down once it reaches 100 C (it has shut itself down abruptly a few times), which I believe is the TJunction for this type of processor? The fans do make some noise, but I do not feel much air being pumped out of the vents. I have had this notebook for 2 years now, and only recently run into this problem. I believe it might have something to do with a new BIOS update I got from Toshiba's website, as, since then, the fans have been quieter. What would your advice be ? Would a laptop cooling pad be a good idea ? Or is this going to require something more extreme ? P.S. I have not overclocked this machine and am using XP. Thank you for your time and sorry for the lengthy post, just trying to give as much information as possible.

Dani AI

Generated

This thread shows a classic aging‑laptop thermal problem: reduced airflow (dust-clogged heatsink/fan), a dried or degraded thermal interface, a failing fan, or even an overheating/weak battery. The Intel mobile Core 2 Duo used in these P100 models is specified with a junction limit around 100 C, so the machine will aggressively throttle or cut power if internal temps hit that ceiling. Intel Core 2 Duo T7200 specs. (hmc-tech.com)

Immediate, prioritized checklist (safest/fastest first):

  • Safety: if the battery feels unusually hot, stop using it and run the laptop from AC only after removing the battery. Warm or bulging Li‑ion packs are a fire risk and should be handled or replaced promptly. Battery safety guidance. (batteryuniversity.com)
  • Non‑invasive checks: confirm vents are clear, feel for steady airflow at the exhaust, and listen for the fan. Try short compressed‑air bursts into the vents (hold the fan so it does not overspin).
  • If airflow is weak after external cleaning: plan a proper teardown to clean the fan/heatsink and reapply thermal paste. Follow a step‑by‑step repair guide for similar laptops and take ESD precautions; disassembly can void warranties and the P100 manual warns about service/disassembly procedures. iFixit fan/heatsink guides. P100 user manual / service cautions. (ifixit.com)

Notes on BIOS, drivers and temporary fixes: firmware updates can change fan control behavior (so ’s quieter fans after a BIOS flash is plausible); check release notes and consider reverting only if you can safely reflash. A cooling pad can lower case and intake temps and buy time while you fix the root cause, but it is a band‑aid—not a substitute for cleaning or re‑pasting. UEFI/fan control explanation. Cooling pad testing/notes. (kitguru.net)

Tiebacks to the thread: ’s driver experiments and ’s successful cleaning match this triage—drivers affect workload/ GPU heat but physical dust and old paste are the most common long‑term causes. If uncomfortable doing internal service, a reputable repair shop can clean, replace the paste, and swap the fan or battery safely.

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Heya, i'm experiencing the same problem. My laptop is about 3 years old now, and its just started in the last few days to hang, or shut down, and I think its due to overheating. But now its got to a point where I can't switch it off because the keyboard and off buttons have seized.

I haven't overclocked it. I dont know how hot its running at but its always run scorchingly hot.

Any news.... let me know.

I have had this as well, I used drivers from laptopvideo2go.com to replace the toshiba drivers, some drivers cause lower temperatures then others.
Also some create HIGHER temperatures and you should not go over the maximum of 100 degrees CELCIUS.

I use version 185.85 myself (Windows 7 with nvidia geforce go 7600 256mb ram)

The highest temp reading I get is 70 degrees Celcius and it clocks down to protect itself, it isn't the best driver out there but with a cooling pad you can play even the heaviest games on your laptop.

Hey folks,


I actually just dusted off my P100 and am posting from it. Ever since I got my new work laptop and powerful desktop I haven't had much use for it. However, I turned this thing on and within minutes it was cooking my right hand so I started to investigate which is how I found this thread.

As far as my current situation I'm gonna pin it down to my battery which I think has finally bit it and was ridiculously warm when I just popped it out.

Last year though I did run into the same CPU problem (100 C) and went about disassembling my unit right down to the CPU, blew out the fan and heatsink etc. Don't do it unless you are comfortable with potentially destroying your computer but after that it ran much better.

has some good responses

Umm what OS are you people using?

Not regarding this laptop in particular but some problems occur with the (laptop end) connections coming loose from the board or the center pin getting pushed into it. This would cause severe heat problems.
The other is that the battery could be getting weak, a bad cell would make the charger work really hard to try and put the power back into the dead-cell - this would heat things up fast as the charger would have to work hard to do this - some have actually caught fire! Check your connections carefully, especially the center pin if applicable. So much dust gathers in the cooling fan fins and area that you should take the CPU fan out, take it apart and clean it well, often!

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