Member Avatar for tess24278

I bought an HP pavillion dv6000 about a year and a half ago. The other day It was on internet was up and i wasn't actively using it when it just shut off. I was like ok? So I pressed the power button to turn it back on and it wont turn back on. all the buttons light up like normal but not even half a second after that it just all turns back off. The charger is plugged in and lit up same with the battery light and it would flash if it was low on battery which it doesn't. Ive tried taking battery out and all the other things Ive read online but nothing works what could be the issue?
I'm already fed up with HP and will never buy a laptop from them again, they should stick with printers.

  • 3 Contributors
  • 2 Replies
  • 126 Views
  • 6 Days Discussion Span
  • Latest Post Latest Post by kujoy

Dani AI

Generated

A short recap and a practical plan that builds on what others have already said: reports the DV6000 lights come on briefly then everything goes dark. suggested basic isolation, and outlined a likely motherboard-level fault. Before committing to a board repair, run a few low-risk checks and secure the hard drive for data recovery.

First, verify the power source. Measure the AC adapter output with a multimeter (DC volts) to confirm it delivers the rated voltage. Inspect the DC barrel and jack for looseness or broken solder pads — a flaky jack can present exactly the symptom described. Listen closely on power press for fan/HDD spin or relay clicks; absence of any activity narrows the fault toward the power distribution on the board. If comfortable with a meter, look for the presence of the standby voltage rail at the jack or at obvious board test points (3.3V/5V rails) — no standby voltage usually means the incoming power path or power-management area is dead.

If data matters, remove the HDD now and put it in a USB-to-SATA enclosure or adapter to copy files before further teardown. If proceeding with inspection, disconnect AC and battery, ground yourself, take photos as screws and connectors are removed, and look for obvious signs: bulging/leaking caps, burn marks, cracked solder joints, or a loose heatsink. Keep the laptop on a non-conductive surface and avoid improvising with unknown tools.

Next steps: get a clear written diagnostic from an electronics shop that will test power rails and shorts rather than only offering a quick heat-up fix. Compare that quote to the cost of a used replacement motherboard or a replacement laptop. If no confidence doing this personally, at minimum salvage the drive and pursue either a component-level diagnosis or a part swap.

Recommended Answers

All 2 Replies

Member Avatar for caperjack

The other day It was on internet was up and i wasn't actively using it when it just shut off.

you just happened to be there when you laptop died !
you could try thing like removing ram,hdd,and maybe try a new power plug

Member Avatar for kujoy

Sounds very much like either the Graphics chip or Northbridge chip has become detached from the motherboard. This is a very common fault with these laptops. Both these chips are whats known as "Flip Chips" and are attached to the motherboard using Ball Grid Array (BGA). This means the chips are attached to the motherboard using hundreds of balls of lead free solder, in this case 0.6mm. Because these laptops have poor cooling, thermal stress causes the balls to crack or become detached from the motherboard. Its likely that after 18months of use the fan has become blocked which has added to the overheating. Its possible to get the motherboard repaired by removing the chip and replacing the solder balls (reballing). This needs specialised equipment. Avoid anyone who is just heating up the chips (reflowing) as this can repair it, but its generally wont last more than a few months if your lucky. Also reflows are often done by using hot air guns or paint strippers. These can cause more damage than they fix.

Its also worth noting that the Nvidia graphics chips being a flip chip uses BGA internally to attach the top part of the chip to the bottom part of the chip which is then covered in resin. These are a common fault, and cannot be replaced. A professional reflow may work. But the results are mixed.

To get the chip reballed your looking at about £55 - £65, and many use lead solder which is more reliable long term. Look for someone using Dark infra red technology for the reflow/reballing.

Hope that helps.

Edited by kujoy because: n/a
Be a part of the DaniWeb community

We're a friendly, industry-focused community of developers, IT pros, digital marketers, and technology enthusiasts meeting, networking, learning, and sharing knowledge.