Hello

I would ask a one questoin about this laptop from my friend:

I got laptop Dell Latitude D620. It was plugged in electric power but without batery.
By accident, a couple of times happened that charger pulled out of laptop. That happened several time,
and I just plugged it in again and everything was fine. Now, last time charger pulled out I can't turn
laptop to boot. It seems like it's not receiving the power somehow. I tried another charger and I couldn't turn on the laptop.

I also tried replacing HDD. In computer service they told me its up to motherboard, and fix would cost 200 euros or so.
What do you think?

Thanks.

happygeek commented: spammer -3

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Thread started by describes a Dell Latitude D620 that no longer powers on after the AC plug was yanked out and a spare charger did not help. Building on observations from , and , the most useful next step is to treat the problem as a simple, methodical power-path diagnosis: adapter → DC jack → input protection/fuse → voltage regulators/power MOSFETs → system rails/power button.

A compact diagnostic workflow (multimeter and basic tools required):

  1. Verify the adapter itself: read the rating printed on the adapter, set a multimeter to DC volts, and measure across the barrel plug (center pin and outer sleeve). Confirm voltage matches the label and that it stays steady while gently flexing the cable. An intermittent or missing reading isolates the adapter or its cable.
  2. Confirm presence of voltage at the laptop DC jack pins or the DC-in pads on the board. If the jack is removable, measure at the board-side connector. Presence at the jack but not on the main power rail points to an internal fuse, polyfuse, or regulator stage. No voltage at the jack points back to the adapter/jack.
  3. Inspect for mechanical/joint issues not already visible in the thread: look for a cracked jack housing or broken solder legs. Wiggling the plug while monitoring voltage often reveals intermittent contact.
  4. If adapter and jack test good but no boot, measure main board rails (with service manual or board markings if available). If unfamiliar with board-level testing, stop and get a pro diagnosis to avoid further damage.

If diagnostics point to the jack or a blown input fuse, those are typically cheaper, part-level repairs than a full board replacement. If board power rails are dead despite correct input, the fault is likely on the mainboard power stage and a detailed shop diagnostic is warranted—ask for a written part-level diagnosis before authorizing a full motherboard replacement. Take ESD and battery-safety precautions when opening the unit.

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Hard to tell without actually seeing the machine. Try removing the battery and powering it with only the AC adapter. If this doesn't work try holding the power button in for about 15 seconds. This will flush any residual power being stored in capacitors on your motherboard. If neither of these work, you may be SOL. One last thing you can try is taking a look at the motherboard (probably get to it by removing the keyboard. Things to look for that indicate critical damage are things that smell like burnt plactic, broken capacitors (fluffy stuff might be sticking out), burnt out resistors (brown/black resistors), or just black marks in general on the board. Make sure that the power connection is still soldered properly. You will likely find this near a voltage regulator on the board. If any of this seems overwhelming, take it in to a pro as you could damage it more than it already is.

commented: Welcome back, I am Jingda a helper in the hardware forum and nice to meet you! +9

Since you mention pulling the charger from the laptop, the 1st thing I would check is if the power socket is still soldered on the motherboard. If it's not, solder it and you should be alright.
There is always the change that you've cracked the motherboard, but that's not something that you can repair.
If the motherboard isn't cracked or broken and the socket is still soldered, you might want to check that the socket is in 1 piece and that (don't know the word, but I'll describe) the metal parts on the inside (the ones that get the juice from the charger) are still there.

Since the chargers socket has suffered alot' it might be the point of contact between the socket and the mainboard. connect the charger to your laptop and try moving the socket (where the charger connects to the laptop) slightly to see if any thing happens.

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