Can't 'drag' the dialogue box upwards with the title bar by any chance, can you?
If not, and you can actually move the slider to the screen resolution you want, do so. Making the change will cause the 'OK' button to be selected. Then, using your keyboard, press the tab key four times and press <Enter>
Doing so should highlight and selct the 'Apply' button :D
Not just ABit, grassroots. In my experience the 'bundled' monitor software which accompanies motherboards and video cards is generally substandard. There are better utilities to use.
Sounds clumsy to me, and I can't understand how that partition got identified as C:
I'd suggest you start over, and follow the second of the procedures I've mentioned above. Mke the first partition of your drive an NTFS one with Windows XP installed on it, then create a FAT32 partition for Windows 98 and install it following the linked directions.
Yes, it could. I'd suggest you use Registry Mechanic to try and fix up the problems. If it is unsuccessful you may need to format your hard drive and install Windows cleanly again. Be sure to back up all your data first, as you will wipe it from the hard drive in the process.
Do I understand that you already have Windows XP on the first partition of your primary drive? If so I hope you've made it an NTFS partition, because using FAT32 for Windows XP is less than ideal. Do I also understand that you also have another Windows XP installation on a different partition?
There's two ways to approach having a dual boot with the two Windows versions.
First way is to remove the partitions from the drive, create a small FAT32 partition for Windows 98 and install 98 on that. Then boot from the Windows XP CD, create a new partition for it using NTFS, and install Windows XP to that. This is the preferred option. Your dual boot configuration will be automatically created, but your XP installation won't be C:
If you already have XP in the first partition of your Primary drive ( C: ) you can create a FAT32 partition, install Windows 98 to it, and create the dual-boot yourself in the process. Here's how.
Nope, just checked and there's no user settings for that. you can set it to autosend at set periods, or to autosend only when you exit the program, but that's it.
Oh! Sorry. I suspect your problem will have something to do with the way your SATA drive is configured. If someone familiar with the intricacies of having Windows XP installed on a SATA drive doesn't show up soon (I haven't used them and can't advise you off the top of my head) we'll need to research the problem for you.
I'll give it a day or two in for others to contribute from their direct experience :)
That's a problem. Was it connected to the internet via router/dsl modem when Windows was installed? If so it might have picked up a worm during the installation process.
If not, you might have a hardware problem and power supply unit or RAM would be the most likely culprits.
* Use arrow keys to move to 'Safe Mode' option * Press <Enter> to select it * 'Windows is Starting.....' screen * To begin, click your user name..' screen * Choose 'Administrator' and log on with full access to the system.
You shouldn't get the 'Logo' screen at all, if you're referring to the same logo screen I am ;)
I'm sure the menu you refer to is prior to the loading of the user interface, and requires you to make your selection from the keyboard?
Try entering your choice, and leave the mouse alone. Your 'selection' would've been ignored because you didn't actually make one, and the system continued trying to boot as normal.
You mean that the screen went black again when you tried, or that you couldn't access the menu which allows you to get there?
If it's the latter, then you haven't got the timing of the keypress correct. Press <F8> periodically and repeatedly from near the end of the POST screens onward, to get the timing right. Some systems are a bit 'touchy' about the timing of it.
If the Windows Logo screen displays, you've already gone past the point where you access the boot menu options available from the <F8> menu.
You've obviously changed display and/or monitor settings to ones which are unsupported by your hardware.
Reboot into 'Safe Mode' (press <F8> before the Windows Logo appears and choose 'Safe Mode' from the list of alternatives) and change your settings to ones which will work.
I still think the best precaution you can take is to uninstall ABit EQ
Download MBM5, learn how to set it up from the support section there and the motherboard list, and use it as your monitoring tool instead of the crappy proprietary tool included with the motherboard!
We're sorry, the product you have searched for is no longer available for sale.
That said, the Thermaltake cases are very good quality, the power supply units included are also very good quality, and if such a case is affordable for you then it's a sound purchase.
Personally, I'd NEVER pay that much for a PC case! I personally get cheap cases, throw the included power supply unit away and replace it with a good quality one, and modify the case myself for appearance if it's to be a unit which is on display.
I've got an ABit NF7-S (revision 2) board myself, and wouldn't have that ABit monitoring utility installed on it in a fit! I use MBM5 for continuous monitoring, as I believe it's more accurate. (Everest is better for generating reports)
I wouldn't be worried about that 3.3v rail unless you start seeing instability.
What I WOULD be worried about is why the hell you have vcore at 1.84volts, when your processor is supposed to run at 1.65volts vcore? Peoples who boost up processor core voltage are rather silly, in my opinion, and such a practice doesn't sit very well with care and caution ;)
Edit: Moved to the 'Hardware' section, by the way :D
Run that and see if the voltage level reports replicate what the ABit utility is reporting. If so, get the power unit tested if you wish, but if the system is running stable then I wouldn't really see it as an issue.
Manufacturer provided motherboard monitoring utilities are notoriously innaccurate, by the way ;)
Is your copy of Windows XP an original release version, without Service packs of any sort integrated into it?
Most problems like this can be avaoided by integrating a Service pack into the initial installation, because the viruses which cause such behaviour are predominately ones which 'fixes' were included for in Service Pack 1.
Far as I know, you can only change the CD key when you activate or reactivate. Simply editing a registry entry isn't enough, because you can run into problems with the product activation code.
Could you clarify what you're trying to do here please? Is the copy you have OEM, or the copy you're purchasing?
Why do you want to change the CD key at this point in time? (If you're making an illicit installation legit, don't be afraid to say so, because that's a perfectly permissible discussion.)
The CD-key issue will only be a problem when activating, but it CAN be changed successfully.
I hears ya helloimtim, but for the general user, changing to Firefox, Mozilla or Opera will mean that he or she gets 'nailed' with MUCH less of the nasties which are out there to nail ya!
Most of them are specifically designed to exploit weaknesses in Internet Explorer, and can't get in if you use a decent browser!
No use theorising about whether or not the people who write 'nasties' are gonna target other browsers in future. We're helping people sort things out here and now!
It means that the system found a different hardware configuration to that which BIOS settings tell it should be there. You've made changes. Should be fine when you're done hooking things up and getting them to work, I'd imagine.
Course you're talking about cable connection! There's a power cable (skinny, leading to a 4 pin plug) and a data cable (wide, flat). I asked you which one you unplugged. :D
Which cable? Power cable or data cable? If it's an older floppy drive, ditch it in the bin and bung a new one is is the best way. They don't cost much at all!
But before you do that, be sure that you haven't had the power connector attached in a way that you 'missed' a pin and had the thing connected to 3 pins instead of 4. that'd kick it in the guts and make it lay down crying! :D
OK, let's REALLY go back to 1, eh? Disconnect EVERYTHING FROM EVERYWHERE!
Reset CMOS.
Grab the main power cable from the power supply unit and attach the ATX connector to the motherboard.
Make sure the power supply fan is connected to the correct socket on the motherboard.
Bung in a RAM module, in memory slot 1
Connect up the power switch, power LED, Reset and speaker cables from the front case panel.
Connect the monitor and keyboard, fit the power cord, and turn it on. MAKE SURE NOTHING ELSE WHATSOEVER IS ATTACHED TO ANYTHING.
If you've attached everything correctly, and you don't get a display showing the machine doing its self tests and ending up sitting there confused because there's no drives attached, then something's dramatically wrong! Try it again, this time fitting the display card and connecting the monitor to that instead. If that doesn't start either, then scream!
What processor have you got fitted to that motherboard? What make, model number and speed of RAM module are you using? If both those are fine with the motherboard itself, then you can start assuming that either motherboard, processor, or RAM module is stuffed.
Oh! Haven't heard any more about 512Mb cards, but they were delayed considerably by the fact that GDDR3 ram chips to suit them are hideously expensive and difficult to obtain in quantities. There's no need for 512MB cards yet anyway, so not to worry.
You'll have to decide for yourself which manufacturer provides the 'best' card. Virtually all of them offer identical performance to any other, if they're the same type of card. Sure some might be 'tweaked' a little more (at a price) but you gotta consider that means they're already closer to the maximum extent any such card can be overclocked to. Some may offer more 'exttras' and better software, but that's no use to you unless they are accessories or software titles which will be useful to your needs. Some cheaper brands might be constructed from thinner PCBoards and more cheaply sourced components, but that usually means that more of them will fail at the outset and need to be exchanged under warranty, rather than that they will all have a shorter working life.
Do your homework, choose what best suits your budget and needs. After all, 'the best' is primarily prestige value, not performance or lifespan ;)
Sounds pretty good to me. You might consider changing to a more comprehensive Firewall, such as ZoneAlarm, if that ADSL router doesn't already have NAT and SPI protection built into it. Keep it all updated, and have the security tools set to background scan.
That Quaddro FX might be okay for a system which is intended to do Workstation Graphics, but if the system is intended for 3D games then it's an expensive way to get less performance than from a current top-end gaming card.
And if the system is intended for Workstation Graphics and money is no object, then the Quaddro FX is a minor-league player, I'm affraid!
AGP v PCI-E is dictated by the motherboard. I didn't check the board in those specs, so what slot does it have?
Best gaming card choices at present are the NVidia 6800 Ultra or the ATi X850XT
Avoid themes and themes software like the plague. In fact, avoid any and all software gimmicks which 'pretty up' your PC or add 'cute' features.
Leave the settings you mention at Windows defaults. Change them only if they prove a problem to the way you work.
If you use your PC a lot, don't be afraid to leave it running 24/7, as long as it is not in any extreme climate conditions which will make it run iverly hot.
Install Firefox and set it as your default browser. Ensure you have Spyware detection and removal tools installed as well as AntiVirus protection, and make sure you use a Firewall.
The 'best' you can get out of your system is smooth and reliable operation, not benchmarks which blow away the neighbourhood because you've 'tweaked' the system to its ultimate.
Keep it well maintained, both by regularly running defragmentation and drive cleanup tools, and by regularly opening the system up and keeping it clean from dust.
Don't do leeching of music, movies or warez software, don't install every cheap or free program you see or someone tells you about.
That's the basics of getting the 'best' from your PC!
It's already being dealt with, in the correct forum section where it was moved to after it stopped being a virus and spyware issue.
That's the one you were looking for snowwolf, so please continue the discussion there instead of going through it all again. If anyone has better ideas than the ones I proposed there, could they add those also.
* Use a partition for Windows. 10Gb is enough, but use more if you want. * Have a dedicated partition for program installations. You'll keep them unfragmented and responsive by doing so. Alter the default program installation directory to point to that dedicated partition. * Have another partition or partitions for data storage. Shift 'My Documents' to there.
I'd agree that having a dedicated partition for the pagefile is an absolute waste of time for 99.999% of people. I'd also suggest that disabling services falls into the same category. Visit Black Viper's website if you insist on playing around with Services, but be advised that this is a 'geeky' thing to do, which may cause problems, and which most likely will show no performance improvement.
Did you end up with any error message? Did you allow the procedure to complete?
Does Internet Explorer still work when you try to open it?
If all was successful, when you try to run Internet Explorer after removing it from Add/Remove Windows components you should get a pop-up box telling you to pop in your Windows CD so it can be installed. If your Windows setup files are stored on your hard drive, then the reinstallation might proceed by itself.
If none of this is occurring, you might have to install Windows over the top of itself, or perhaps even format and install fresh.
Deleting files from program folders is a really bad move, can cause major problem,s, and should be avoided at all costs!
Disconnect the hard drive. Disconnect the USB cables. Strip it right back to the bare bones system I described earlier. Don't even have molex power connectors attached to drives etc.
It's no use connecting anything up until you actually get the motherboard to complete it's Power On Self Test.
If that doesn't work (you may have deleted something which will cause problems with uninstalling) then doe a Refresh install of Windows. Be warned though that you''ll need to download and install Security updates again afterwards.
I already did, DMR, by posting and stickying this topic.
Sorry to intrude in such an off-topic way in this forum section, but seriously, 90% of the problems encountered in this section and in the 'Viruses and nasties' section could be avoided by changing browsers and discontinuing the use of Internet Explorer!
Firefox is actually leaner 'n' meaner than Internet Explorer. Most people report that it takes a little longer for the browser to actually fire up initially, but that once started it is a faster operating browser than IE.
Mozilla is a more demanding browser than Firefox, as it is a more full featured alternative.
Whichever you choose, install the ieView plugin ( http://ieview.mozdev.org/installation.html ), so that if you come across one of the few sites which demand Internet Explorer specifically (Windows Update, some Internet Banking sites for example) you can right-click the link and choose 'Open in Internet Explorer'.
Hi again, Squirty. I've just reread all this through again and I'm wondering. Are you sure that you are clearing CMOS memory correctly? You'll recall that I instructed you to do so on page 2 of this topic.
If all seems that it is connected correctly, power down, remove the (big) power supply connector from the motherboard, and follow the instructions on page 7 of your motherboard manual to reset CMOS.
You also need to ensure that you troubleshoot using a barebones system, as described earlier. Even bad power connection to a drive which doesn't have it's data cable connected can pull things to a halt, or alternatively having a dodgy drive hooked up.
You really need to ensure that CMOS memory has been cleared, and that the system is not trying to start up with settings from a previous configuration.
