Posts by Chaky

Try removing hard drive and booting from CD, just to make sure that CD drive works.
Now that you have HD in your hands, examine it and see if there are jumpers on it. Some HDs have jumper settings for "master", "slave", "cable select" and "single drive". If the jumper is set on "slave", or it is "single drive" with CD device on same IDE channel, then the HD and CD jumper settings are in conflict, thus not working, and the boot sequence will skip HD and CD right to the boot agent that is trying to boot from RIS server via Network card (not same as "network boot"....atleas not with my mobo).

Some system have that option hidden in BIOS. Sort of, "last resort."

If the jumper is set on "master", you can try to plug it in other IDE cable/jack (if there is any other).

Jumper conflict can also produce such boot behavior.
It goes something like this (straight from my imagination):
- BIOS sees New HD
- It clears CMOS
- BIOS tries to configure IDE controller to work with this new HD
- BIOS fails because the jumpers are in conflict (or HD is faulty)
- BIOS tries same with CD drive - with same result
- CMOS remains without HD configuration.
- BIOS assumes that hardware configuration is changed because CMOS is cleared, and resets boot sequence, or the boot sequence is stored …

(you can count that high right?)
PS - How's your wife and my kids???

Take a hike boy, you're not welcome here.

P.S. How's your mother???

That's simlpe. Just plug it in. I hear that not alldrives have same jacks, but I also hear that there are adopters that would be usefull in your case.

If it fits, check what BIOS says. If it sees the drive, install windows on site. Don't wait 'till you get home to do it. Could be that all will look well until 1st reboot, and then..BAM..."Error loading operating system".

Intel 2.0......Intel 2.0.......*tries to focus*.... sounds like boot agent....or a mantra.....

The messages you described mean that HD is still working, but the MBR (maste boot record) could be corrupted. That doesn't necessarly mean HD filure. Could be that the system froze in a bad moment, while it was accessing boot sector or while performing defragmentation.

There are couple of things you can do before dicthching the HD.

If it is still covered with warranty, I sugest you use it.

or

You can disable the HD in BIOS, and reinstall the windows. Or try repair, but I don't think it will do that on BIOS-disabed HD.

You can get (using your parents PC) a bootable CD image with HD repair utility. Try this one. It is straight from their site.

It is self-extracting .exe of an bootable CD image. Use nero or whatever you have to burn the image on CD. If you don't have burning software on your parents PC you can get this. (their site again, might not work on non PBs)

Boot you laptop with it and go with a folw. I have no freaking idea of what this utility looks like or what it can do. If the formating your HD isn't too big of a problem, than you can use number of bootable images that are free to download, like this baby. It will wipe your HD clean, as they say "bring it to pre format state". After that, it will …

Try removing your VGA and plugging it back. Moving the PC around sometimes makes VGA to lose the contacts with the slot.

P.S.
You mean "PCI-E", right?

$400 is, what I like to call, tax on ignorance. If there is one thing that is interchangeable with laptops, regardless of vendor, it is HD. I suggest that you take HP's technician's advice and get new HD, .... BUT (my advices):

- DON'T buy on the net. Go to the store and get new one or find some 2nd hand one in the neighborhood. You must try it on before you buy it.

- don't pay over $100. That is the optimal capacity/cost ratio with HDs.

- think about the laptop's warranty. I'm sure HP wouldn't appreciate if you wouldn't donate $400 to them. Check if such replacement would void the warranty. That is, if there still is one.

Sounds to me like you don't like ANYTHING with that laptop.

Hmm... custom built laptop.... If that thing EVER sees the daylight, I bet it would be the ugliest laptop in town. Putting laptop together out of different parts is next to impossible without a ton of loctite.

I can imagine changing HD or DVD drive. Or even CPU on laptop, but mobo? With laptops, mobo is the core. It comes with everything from graphics to shape and position of screws and holders. So you can't just swap them around. It is simpler and less stressing to ditch what you have and get something else. Difference of the shapes of things, design and all that makes it is practically impossible to swap DVD drives between, say, Toshiba and HP because they just don't fit. Or "almost" fit. Not to mention display. I'm not sure how "standard" is the connection between display and graphic card, but I wouldn't be too surprised if dell's display won't fit on Sony.

And if you DO manage to patch something together:

1 - would it be capable of carrying around without causing occasional fire or exposion?
2 - what would it look like (read: how embarrassing would it be for you to bee seen in a vicinity of one? I'm sure it would have a winning personality...)

The moral of the story:
If you feel creative, build a desktop.

I was reffering to same model of 1 G and 2 x 512 G. The quantity of memory on one stick is the bottleneck (however ironic it sounds). For instance, my mobo supports 400MHz 512 MB sticks or 333Mhz 1G sticks. It is a memory controller capability limitation.

Also, if you have 2 different sticks, say 333MHz 512 MB and 400MHz 512 MB the working speed would be of lower one. But performance all together would be much greater with, say, 1.5 G of 333MHz Cli 3 than 1G 400 Mhz Cli 2.5 if you're running Quake 4, Farcry or Battlefield 2142.

And don't be suprised if the memory you get would refuse to work with the memory you have. Or if your system gives you occasional BSOD. That can be expected when working with memory modules of different speeds/vendor/(even)model. It is not always so, but you can never know, and there is no way of knowing until you try it.

My config. cant be used under w98. There are no available drivers for my mobo (Asus a8N Sli).
nForce4
Sli
HTT

All that is beyond w98.

And regarding dual core and w98.... I believe that it would work, but only 1 of them.

I believe that you are on the right track.

Getting new PSU would be the cheapest remedy. You don't have to wait until something like CPU ($$$) dies because of it.

Can't seem to find the download link to it...
Anyways, I did run Windows Memory Diagnostic tool over night couple of days back, and no errors turned up. Set it on extensive mode or something. It also passed memtest86 and prime95. I don't think that another memory test software would make any difference.

I must admit that since I've changed timings according to that formula, I haven't seen much of those errors. Only one. Caused by IE when I closed it's window.

BTW, I got reply from AMD. They claim that the errors are originated from memory modules, and not memory controller (that is embedded in CPU).

Make sure that A/C cable is not plugged in, and try to turn it on without battery in.

You can also leave it without any powersource for some time, so the system will be resteted hardware-wise.

Bigger problem than processor compatibility is motherboard and other peripherals you have. For instance, you may have motherboard drivers (which would cover the processor), but no video drivers for W98. If you examine CD's that came with your stuff, you'll see if their manufacturers support outdated windows 98.

Even without apropriate drivers, your system should run on generic drivers, but at the loss of performance. Some software (like 3d games) would not run if required drivers are not installed.

That story hurts deep.

Looks like you have PSU problem there. If a harddrive won't spin-up.
Or you may have plugged ide cable upside-down. That is, if you have one of those cheap ones that you CAN plug upside down.

I suggest that you try basic steps:

- try PSU-Mobo-cpu only if you have beeper. (no drives, PCI cards or memory plugged). You should hear 1 short and 2 long beeps or 1 long or repetitive short beeps or combination of them. Depends on BIOS settings. If the "halt on" is set on "all errors", you will hear only one error code.

- try PSU-Mobo-cpu-VGA (first step if you don't have beeper) You should see the message like "no memory installed" or "ram error" or hear the 1 long beep. (depende on your BIOS specific beep codes).

From now-on, if you get some positive results, try plugging in one by one component and see what happends:

- memory
- HD only (see what BIOS detects)
- optical (-II-)
- all other stuff

I suggest you get a beeper, for it can be really usefull with troubleshooting newborn PC's, like tell you if your mobo-psu-cpu combination is healthy or not.

P.S. If the vga fan turns on, it only means that vga is getting power.

Bare in mind that 1 Gig sticks are slower than 2 of 512 MB of a same vendor/model, so if you're looking for a permanent memory expansion, I advice to go for 2x512 instead of 1 gig.

Best advice I can give you is visit ASUS web site (www.asus.com) and sellect exact motherboard type. Also you can see what motherboard intel recommends. You don't have to be concerned about VGA. Only thing you have to make sure of is slot type. I thing you need PCI-E x16 slot

Performance increase would be significant.
Most stores offer memory replacment for a discount.

Tip: Find a SLI ready motherboard.

For the us to help you, you need to help us.

I need to know these things:

BIOS type (AMI, Aware, Phoenix...) or Motherboard vendor/model and sequence of beeps (like 1 long - 2 short beeps, or continuous beep, or repetitive short beep...) this is very important.

Also, I have these questions for you:

Are you able to get to the windows?
Are there any error messages showing up when you turn on the PC (so-called POST messages)?
If the message escapes you before you can read it you can always press "pause/break" button, and the PC will pause.
Also note the BIOS manufacturer.

(crash curse)

BIOS (Basic Input Output System) is a program that is performing tests on your PC every time it starts (among other things).
That is called POST (Power-On Self Test). Any error messages during POST are information of what failed the test. Sometimes they can be numbers, hex numbers, messages like "keyboard not connected" or beeps.
The beeps you are hearing is a code. (That is known as beep code)
Every sequence has it's meaning.
For instance AMI BIOS code for "all OK" is 2 short beeps, while AWARD BIOS is 1 short beep.

Those messages is the info you have to post here.

Without those I can't help you.

If I understood correctly, you have 6 loose wires hanging from a front panel and you have 3 connectors. And ever (colour)/white is one connector.

Green/white is the power LED. If you reverse them, led will almost not work. (no harm done)

Red/white could be reset button. There is no polarity there.

Black/white....hmmm...Power switch maybe? Or speaker?

Why don't you post thing that are on front panel and things that you have connected successfully.

I've asked AMD for advice (fingers crossed).

Current voltage is set on "auto".
PC Probe reports it as 2.9V

I can set it up to 3.0V max. with increments of 0.05V.

And Geil has problem with customer support too. That is, if there was one.

Remove the battery and put it back again.

Your problem is with HD power cable. Poor contacts make unrecoverable error with windows and they shut down (with or without BSOD). You can disable the "automatic shutdown while booting" feature, but that would be useful only with /SOS boot comand ("msconfig" in the "run" menu item).

I suggest that (if this is retail PC) you use the waranty. Some retail PC's has waranty sticker on the casing, so if you open it up, you will tear the sticker and void your waranty.

If this is a custom-built PC, try changing the power and ide/sata cables on your HD.

If you have a problem, maybe someone else has that same problem, so if you have a question to ask, I suggest you post new thread in adequate forum, so other ppl with same or similar problem can be helped.

[IMG]http://images.similarminds.com/movie/8.jpg[/IMG]

45 Qs.

You should do this:

1. install windows
2. install service pack 2 (you didn't specify if the Corp. XP is SP1, SP2 or original non-SP)
3. install drivers (start with 1. chipset/IDE controller, 2. Video Driver. the rest is up to you) *
4. update windows via microsoft update
5. Install AV software
6. Update AV software
7. Make backup
8. now install all those non-essential programs

If the windows start acting wierd again, use backup (ASR). That way you won't have to do all those things again. Beware that using ASR means formating you C drive, so anything you want to perserve, you'll need to move it someplace else.

* If you misplaced your CD that came with laptop.
That can be a nag. Without it, your laptop is running without some essential drivers that are not included with Windows XP setup disk.
To check for your self, look at control panel/system/hardware tab/device manager.
If you see yellow question mark labeled "other devices", or some expanded branches with some devices having a tiny yellow error icon on it, that means that the drivers are either missing, or not installed at all.

Getting another one from Toshiba would be choice No. 1, but not so neccessary. Net is vast and driver-rich. Maybe I can help you if you tell me exact laptop model.

No, formating the drive is out of the question. Your las resort would be reinstalling windows. This is pure software bug/issue. Otherwise you would get BSOD and stuff.

Do try closing down norton.
And if that fails, try disabling norton protection (rightclick recycle bin, select properties, and uncheck the "enable norton protection" or something like that).

One more thing, which ver. of norton systemworks is it?
Last I remember, Norton 2001 (I think) refused to install without Internet Explorer 6, And IE6 won't install unless it's W98SE minimum.

Reminds me of one monitor my brother.. errrr.. "acquired". Same store you just got that PC.

My is GAINWARD GeForce 7800 GT 512 MB and it supports dual DVI unlike one in the test.
Nevertheless, I would be very pleased if it is 55W. That would mean that SLI would not require mo' power.

Taking in consideration possibility of OCing, I am convinced that the calculation is far from exact. I think that it should be used for approx. projection of power consumption when building PC.

It gives you a picture of what the PSU should and shouldn't be. I like that.

Thx for the link.

Too bad that it is in german and outdated. (didn't find Athlon 64 +3700 nor GeForce 7800 GT, closest one was High-end vga with 512 MB)

AMD athlon +3700
PCTV SAT
1 GB network card (I've selected 2 for that reason)
1 firewire
1 sound card
1 sata drive
1 IDE drive
1 vga with 512 MB
1 DVD burner
1 CD rom
1 Floppy
all kinds of fans
10 (I think) USB ports
Modem

Turns out 352 W

More than one in question here.

Just a thought: Maybe there's someone else with this kind of problem. Wouldn't hurt if you posted your solution here.

Unless it is "a solution" like I had for similar problem.

Any mpeg video on my system would reproduce in windows media player in "fast-forward" mode. Tried all kinds of codecs and stuff. Nothing helped.

"Solved" it by trying the "repair Windows installation" mode in windows setup program, but instead of repairing, my HD got screwed, saying "error loading operating system".
I was formating the drive, and trying to reinstall windows for a week without success. Until I got XP SP1 and finally managed to "breathe the life" into it.

Now mpegs play normally.

Ppl, don't do this at home.

There's probbably a good reason why it was there where it was.

One thing that I think could be (I believe that it is possible in W95), is if you have enabled sharing (read only permission) the hard disk in question, mapped it in explorer and actually, trying to write to it's mapped instance. Still, you would have both instances available in explorer.

I also remember, regarding Norton system works, that default settings included system doctor at startup. Maybe it was win doctor. One of those would startup with windows. That one can run scheduled tasks, like disk doctor, speed disk, Norton update... Maybe it is running something in the background every time that would lock the drive.

P.S. Hardware is not an issue here. So don't be gettin' rid of it.

I smoke (cigarettes too).

I vote for PSU replacment. Wouldn't cost you more than $30 to get the 550W like I did.

It is really frustrating when you must guess the power consumption of your hardware. I'm wondering, is it really that hard to declare power consumption of a HD or GPU, or mobo... Would make things simpler when it comes to building PC's.

I would like to ad one thing to my replies here.

PSU's tend to loose power over long period of time. That would explain how it worked before and, all the sudden, BAM. No soup for you. (Seinfield)
The thing is. it was working @90% capacity or so. Didn't need alot of capacity degrade to cause problems.

Hope that 500W would solve your troubles.

P.S. HD's capacity is not a crucial factor when it comes to power consumption. What you want to pay attention to is RPM's. The difference between 5000 and 7200 RPM's is alot when the juice is needed. Not to mention 10000.

Didn't notice. (Modem)

250W? Right now I have 150 W lightbulb over my head. 2 of them eat up more power than that sorry excuse for PSU can provide for motherboard, 2 HD's, CPU, memory, 2 optical dives, fans....

Get the point?

I suggest you dich it and put some real power in it.

Didn't have such problems here. Just Daniweb, ad-less Daniweb. Posted stuff. Only inconvenience I had was failure to upload 3 MB zip file. Tried it twice and gave up. But, I think, it was before adlessness.

Sorry for the inconvenience everyone!

Inconvenience?

But I like daniweb without ads.

Wasn't sure whare to post this:

http://www.daniweb.com/techtalkforums/post274827.html#post274827

I think Spyware forum would be more appropriate for it.
Still, it is related to this theme.

I think ppl should read this post.

Short story:

I was installing and reinstalling windows, troubleshooting some hardware incompatibility issues that I'm experiencing. I wanted to preserve my AV software as it is now, so I wouldn't have to download upgrades (~10 MB) via modem again. I've opened registry editor to track down the uninstall log for it. As I was getting to it, I've noticed something out of place in "HKLM/SOFTWARE" branch. It was key named "C07ft5Y" and it had default value set to "SafeDisc RefCount".

That "C07ft5Y" looked suspicious, so I've goggled it and found this:

C-Dilla! "Copy Protection or Spyware?"
Copy protection maker covertly installs monitoring and CD-Rom copy prevention software on personal computers!!
Copy Protection--SafeDisc, SafeDisc HD™ and SafeCast Gold™
Key benefits:

1. Protects against unauthorized consumer copying of PC software sold through retail, distributor and reseller channels.
2. Thwarts use of CD-recordable drives, re-mastering by professional pirates, and unauthorized Internet downloads.
3. Boosts revenues, discourages copying and opens new markets.
4. Increases retailer purchases of copy-protected titles and reduces store returns.
5. Creates additional selling opportunities and effective customer support via enforced user-registration information.
6. Incorporates anti-hacking technology that is effective against piracy.
7. Easy to implement, compatible with standard hardware configurations and transparent to the consumer.

For convenience I changed the list dots . to a numbered list.

1- OK protects against unauthorized copying, fair enough, as long as the registered owner is able to create a backup.

2- If you …

Dialup (gonna change soon)
Cost per month: 0
Cost per minute: ~0.5 c
ISP: Carnet

Sense when is daniweb non-profit organization?

I'm not seeing any ads whatsoever. Not that I'm complainin'........

I agree. MP3, WMA and some other formats (if not "lossless") deliberately change the sound so it would pack better.
However, AC Audio is far from perfect too. Any audiophile would prefer vinyl over CD. Reason is D/A converter.
With digital audio, perfection of the sound depends on timing accuracy of that chip. If you pay $50 or $100 for a bulk CD ROM device, you can't expect to have very precise timing when it comes to regulating spinning speed, or converting digital record to analog signal. Vinyl has no such irregular timings with reproduction.
Long story - short, I wouldn't recommend spending more than $300 on a soundcard. It just doesn't add up. you'll still be stuck with not so high fidelity sound coming from your Hi - Fi.

Only thing that I've encountered that would raise the level of audio quality with PC's is one PCI sound card (can't remember the brand) that I've seen in newspaper's ad's. It was second-hand, and the price was $800. I was, like, WTF?. Called the guy just to ask what is he selling. He said that it was simple PCI card, 1/2 of retail price, no fancy add-ons like hardware accelerating or caching or anything, just 2 jacks for optical cable, I think 8 line-Ins and 8 line-outs. And the card itself was nothing but one big A/D-D/A converter. For $1600 D/A converter I think one can expect higher audio quality.
Math is simple there. Mo' …

I can say (PC over Hi-Fi user too, I might ad) that your choice would be anything that is USB.
Why? Because it needs to be as far away from the PC casing as possible.
I'm not sure about your config. but I can hear EVERYTHING that is going on inside casing in the form of static noise from E-M emissions from anything that has voltage.
If I crank up the volume to ~80% on Hi Fi, I can hear CD spinning, HD "clicks", fans making continuous white noise, even graphics when scrolling! All that is being picked up, mostly by analog audio CD wire that runs between CD and Sound card (on-board). When I mute Audio CD in volume control, most of the noises mute too. Rest of the noises come from MIDI channel. And mic, if you use it.

Once I used wavelab just to see the noise that is being generated with all channels unmuted. *shivers* Scary....like aliens or something.

Here's something decent:

http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_techspecs_full.php/masterid=11274943

Hmm... Piracy. What is piracy?

Here are my opinions and thoughts:

Definition of piracy:

Am I a pirate if I a make copy of Metallica's "Ride the lightning" so I wouldn't have to wear-and-tear the original? Or if someone liked the album and asked me if I could lend it to him for couple of days?
Sony says it is. Read the smallprint.

I say, if I buy the car, I can drive it anywhere I want. I can flip it over and set it on fire if I feel like it. If I BUY CD (as, it becomes my property), then it's MY CD and I can do whatever I want with it. That includes COPYING!

Nothing would make Sony happier that the situation that you couldn't make a backup copy of your favorite album. You would have to BUY ANOTHER copy. That would double their sales.
In that case, copyright law is nothing but a marketing trick.

I say pirating is PROFITING from illegal copying. Piracy is NOT copying.
Only problem is that today nobody can make any profit from pirating, with everybody having CD and DVD burners. Pirates are out of business for good. What is left of the real pirates are few ppl that are barely making any profit. Sony has no interest in them. There is not enough money there. Sony has more interest to go after little man.

Copyright law …

If I remeber correctly, there should be a folder called "dictionary" or something similar in the office\word path. Also, there are dictionaries or grammar check options where you can specify .... something... regardig of what the ms word will use.

Just from the top of my mind.

Also have in mind the macro viruses and trojans.

If you're making you own PC, it is a matter of luck. Only advice I can tell you is consult your motherboard manual for the memory choice. Don't make my mistake and let salesman convince you to buy something else.