I'm getting notification delays. Up to couple of hours after the reply on subscribed threads have been posted. I don't think that it is daniweb's fault, but I can be wrong.
I'm on hotmail, and the other day I got "server too busy" page instead of my in-box. Also, "time posted" on the thread and "time sent" in my in-box match, so I think that rules out daniweb.
Sometimes, I get huge font words, mixed with normal sized words when browsing forums, but soon as I hit "refresh" button all gets back to normal. I think it is a communication glitch between me and ISP. No big deal.
Edit: quite often I see little icon in my status bar saying "done, but with errors."
Sorry, I thought you were looking for another mobo. My bad.
I've looked around, and (like you said) no dual processor mobos for Core2duo. As I was browsing the net, I remembered a news flash from some time ago. During the PIII era, there I read somewhere that Intel finally released PIII processor that is capable of working in parallel with another CPU(s). Until then the CPUs were deliberately unable to work in multi-processor surroundings. That way Intel ensured it's position in the market as the pace maker. Otherwise, mobo manufacturers would start making dual, triple, quad... CPU mobos and there will no longer be a need for Intel to make bigger-faster-better-CPUs (and sell them, off course).
I wouldn't be too surprised if the history repeated it self here and now with Core2duo processors, however contradictory it may sound.
Other times, when I am fortunate enough to get it going, Windows loads but then immediately freezes on screen.
I was referring to this when I asked you about safe mode.
I suggest that you try to enter BIOS setup. From there you can do some things that can narrow down list of suspects.
- you can disable quick boot: that will make BIOS do extensive tests on everything it can test. If errors are found they are usually displayed as codes. Sometimes, even in English.
- you can see if the memory amount is correct and if the memory settings are out of the ordinary.
- you can see if the HD is being detected. If there is no HD listed, that's the one that's giving you trouble.
My prime suspects are memory and/or power supply. With memory, you can never be 100% certain, but with faulty power supply it, kind of, makes sense. Faulty PSU is giving some power, but not enough to recharge the battery or to supply power needed to run the laptop. That's where you get on-and-immediate-off situation. With combination of some charge still left in the battery you might (if you heat up the battery) get some boot up, but not enough to fully turn on the system. Freeze you described could easily be nothing but a lack of power for the CPU, memory and LCD display (that's why it becomes blurry).
That smart PSU can be "not so smart". Thing is, it has protection against shorting, so if it thinks that there is a shorting somewhere, it will cut off the power. Unplugging it from the mains resets that protection. You need to find out what is causing it to cut off the juice.
I suggest that you do a one-by-one elimination test by unplugging one thing at the time. (Ex: first try without HD, then plug in the HD and try without CD drive etc.). Test is simple: Turn on, turn off, turn on. If it turns on again, you have your suspect.
If the peripherals are not the cause, focus on th fans, CPU, and PCI cards. (including VGA).
It is win's default page file size - 150% of your phisycal RAM. Did you notice if it was back to "system managed size"? And is it on the right partition? You can have 2 page files on 2 partitions.
Did you try plugging back the old VGA? Or no VGA at all? Changes like that clear CMOS and resets the bios records for hardware. Can help sometimes.
Might happen that your windows will refuse to work if you change too much of the hardware. Part of anti-piracy protection. I call it anti-customer protection.
If your BIOS is corrupted, you can make w98 boot floppy with flashing program and BIOS that you need, and command lines can be set in autoexec.bat. The floppy controller part of the BIOS is one part that is more-or less universal, and if that part is not screwed up, you can flash the BIOS by booting it from the floppy. You won't see anything on monitor, or hear the HD, just floppy. That is, if it is corrupt BIOS that you have there.
My buggy genius slim star keyboard wouldn't work in PS/2 port. Have to occupy one of the USBs. Otherwise it would "jamm" the key that was pressed too often in a shot period of time. (try playing doom 3 with that kind of bug). And it's design flaw. *curses* In USB it works fine, but not every time. Sometimes it refuses to boot at all. Happened in the middle of the windows installation process when it prompted me for password. Had to hard-reset and do all over again. Stupid thing thought that installation failed.*curses*
Unplugg EVERYTHING except CPU and power switch. (no video, memory drives...)
You should hear either 1 long and 2 shorrt beeps (no video card signal) or repetative short beeps (no memory). Beep codes may be different.
If you don't have the beeper, you'll have to use the VGA to see if there's any video feedback. Good thing would be to test the video card and monitor on another system. Although, you can try without VGA just to see if there is any change in behaviour.
If you don't get anything, doublecheck the power supply connections to the mobo. If that is not the reason, than it's either faulty mobo or (I suspect) CPU.
Lets see.... cigarette burn .... coffee spill... dust (double layer)... cracked cable... damn <> key not working every time... sme othr kys oo...I think it will be a 800 mark.
To tell you the truth, I HAVE NO IDEA. There is no story, no puzzles, no plots, no goals...it is boring. [no dani mode]I don't even like that game.[/no dani mode]
All I can say is that when I first started to play it, I was hooked. It is very addictive and calming.
If you're thinking about OCing them, you'll have to be very careful when choosing mobo. Some won't let you change things much. Friend of mine got dual core and his mobo (can't remember the name) gave him 2 choices for the multiplier setting. Pathetic.
The hourglass means that system is busy. Why would it be busy if nothing apparent is going on? Best way to help you out with this is that you download hijackthis and post the log here (just copy/paste it or zip it into attachment). This way I'll be able to help you if you have some unwanted process going, like spyware or adware.
where the "usbdevice.inf" should be changed to filename of the INF file.
These 2 batch files must be in same directory as INF file.
Here are examples attached.
If you need to manually put files in system32 directory, you can use "copy" command.
"Copy file.dll %SystemRoot%\System32\file.dll"
Note that you must use quotation marks on the filename if the filename has spaces in it, or (in case of w95 or w98) if the filename exceeds 8.3 format (ex: copy "very long filename.very long extention").
Once the drivers are installed, the USB device should be reckognized every time you plugg it in. If the driver is not included in windows list of drivers, then you'll need to install the device driver manually or provide hardware installation wizard a floppy or CD with the driver.
Product Activation is able to tolerate a certain degree of change in a hardware configuration by allowing a current hash value to have a degree of difference from the hash value that was originally activated. As a result, users can change their hardware without the product believing it is on a different PC than the one it was activated on. If the user completely overhauls the hardware making substantial hardware changes (even over long periods of time), reactivation may be required. In that case, users may need to contact to contact a Microsoft customer service representative by telephone to reactivate.
If those fools tried to rob me, instead of some celebrity, they would have ended up with lesser consequences. Black eyes, broken noses and injured egos.
Funny thing... It never occurred to me to google "free windows-clone OS" keywords...well, whaddayaknow, there is hope that Micro$oft will reconsider that "thy shall install only once" OEM-crap-policy. Maybe even a couple of free-bees? If Bill Gates was dead he'd be turning around in his grave. Maybe his grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-grand-children will NOT be financially well-situated.
I think that I might be out-of-touch with OS scene lately. I don't know how new this ReactOS really is, but I'm giving up on windows, and this baby looks just perfect.
Did any of you guys had any experience with it?
They claim that it is windows competible.
I wonder how long they'll last before mighty MS storms in.
There's one trick I've heard, but it is an even slimmer chance:
Cooling the drive in the freezer might make it work again, until it worms up.
I think that if the freezing the drive would make it work, that heating it up could do the same if the freezing fails.
HDs have mechanism that realigns the heads according to the temperature (material expansion), so if that mechanism failed, you can bring the temperature to it.
As I said, if it works, it would probably be the first.
I guess, you'll have to go to the store then. Funny that e-bay wouldn't have cables like that. Anyway, those things come with cables, so if the lifeview cardbus is brand-new, you can demand replacement. You can always use 75 ohm coaxial your TV uses.
Never tried THAT. It, kind of, makes sense, since there IS a mechanism that shifts the heads when the drive heats up (due to material expansion), and that mechanism can fail. If the freezer won't do it, maybe heating it up will? Can't lose much.
You should get whatever HD type you had before. I think it was IDE drive, since it was 60 GB. I could be wrong. SATA and SATA II are next generation HDs, to some extent still compatible with IDE, though they would require adopters to be connected with IDE controller, for the jacks are completely different. Here's what it looks like:
Although this not meant for laptops. They have smaller and more dense pins, but the principle is the same.
I suggest that you get $100 IDE drive, (unless you had SATA drive originally). It is optimal capacity/cost ratio.
P.S. Don't buy it on-line. You have to make sure it fits and works BEFORE you pay for it. Best test is Windows XP installation on site. Can't beat that. If it reboots normally, then you know it works.
If you mean PXE E61... that is boot agent error code for not having the network cable plugged in. That is normal if you have nowhere to boot your machine from. (no HD/CD/Floppy/LAN). Boot agent tries to boot from LAN, looking for particular server to boot from. Unless you have Windows server 2003 with PXE image and RIS service on, you have nothing to worry about there.
For that CPU message...
(You'll have to post the specs so I can give you more details- exact Mobo - CPU - BIOS)
Clear CMOS: There is a 3 pin jumper bear the battery. Switch the jumper, wait 15 sec, put it back in normal position.
If that doesn't help: Try entering the BIOS (if possible) and change CPU settings to CPU specs. (Example: Athlon XP 2200, runs default at 1800 MHz - that makes settings 133 MHz*13.5)
If I'm reading this correctly, your PC isn't working, and when you use another PSU it is.
You'll have to change the PSU (how smart of me:cheesy: ).
If you want to know if some motherboard has a defect...you use on it PSU, CPU and VGA that you know for sure that are OK. If you don't get any POST... Viola!
AMD is infamous for their retail (sorry excuse for) CPU fan. When I was building my machine I didn't even bother to put it on. Got my self Thermaltake Golden orb II for ~$30. And NV Silencer for ~$30 too. (GeForce 7800 fan) And I'm not overclocking either. It is purely for my investment protection.
And one nice 120 mm fan on the chasis side would be just perfect for the wide and cool air supply.
This is a long shot and a slim chance....but You can try:
- changing the IDE cables. - turning off ALL enhancements (set it to PIO mode) - turn off HDD block mode - turn off IDE prefetch mode - turn off 32 bit transfer - turn off S.M.A.R.T. - if there's something I missed, turn it off (NOT the IDE channel, though)
Note: some of these things may not be listed in your BIOS. If that doesn't do it..... Try it no the different machine. Might just work a little there.
P.S.
I have one HD that is dying last 4 years. It's still kicking. But every now and then it causes a system crush and it wouldn't boot every time. No matter what I do. And it is STILL working, that is, while it is working.
