Clearing CMOS on a Jumperless board

[rmbeckman]

I removed the CMOS battery trying to clear charge but now I get
this message when I try to boot:

CMOS Settings Wrong
CMOS Checksum Bad
CMOS Display Type Wrong
Unlock Keyboard

Press F1 to run Setup
Press F2 to load default values and continue

=================

This system was my computer up until this past Nov when
I bought a New Dell desktop. I'm wanting to put Linux on it.
A Tinkertoy computer of sorts. Obviously pressing F1 or F2
won't work until I can unlock the keyboard. There are pins near
the CHAS Fan Pins which say Keylock...and then to the right of
that no pins but a section that says CLR CMOS

Everything I found via Google said that the motherboard is
a jumperless one so I'm not sure how to proceed.

See pictures of the error msg and motherboard on my blog at
http://mariecomputers.blogspot.com/2008/03/ive-been-trying-to-decided-what-to-do.html

Any help is appreciated.

--Marie

System Spec.
==========

Windows 2000 Pro

Motherboard:
Diamond Media Systems Inc 80300035-001 686
Micronics C300 AMI BIOS AGP set Intel FW82443LX SL2KK
PCI Set Intel FW82371EB
Graphics AGP2X

Processor: Intel Celeron 09250167-SL376 366/66

RAM: SDR SDRAM 3 banks PC 100
2 sticks of 128MB SDR DIMM
1 stick of 64MB SDR DIMM

Hard Drive:
Western Digital Caviar 13.6 GB WD136AA
Enhanced IDE Hard Drive

Video Card
Real 3D Video Card PCB Model # 43-0014100

Sound Card
SoundBlaster PCI 128 Model CT4700

Optical Drive
Cendyne CD-RW Drive
S/N: 210215007903
Model LTR-40124S

[willcomp]

This should be the manual for your motherboard.

See page 28 for power LED/Keylock pins. Verify that keylock pins are not jumpered or that nothing is connected to them.

If they are clear, try installing a jumper, reboot, shutdown, and remove jumper.

Incidentally, Diamond Multmedia is the video card rather than motherboard manufacturer.

[rmbeckman]

This should be the manual for your motherboard.

Incidentally, Diamond Multmedia is the video card rather than motherboard manufacturer.

Thanks, I'd just written down all the writing that was on the motherboard.
This motherboard is probably around 8 yrs old at least so I'd never have
been able to find the manual.

There isn't anything on the keylock pins which have clr cmos noted on the
motherboard to the right of the pins.(pic on blog)
http://mariecomputers.blogspot.com/2008/03/ive-been-trying-to-decided-what-to-do.html

[willcomp]

Have you tried booting jumpered and then unjumpered as I recommended earlier? BIOS thinks a keylock switch is closed.

I'll be interested to see if anyone is curious about how I determined what motherboard you have. It's a process familar to many of us old timers.

[rmbeckman]

Have you tried booting jumpered and then unjumpered as I recommended earlier? BIOS thinks a keylock switch is closed.

You didn't really say what motherboard it was. Am I correct in saying
that it is a Micronics C300 with what I guess would be an intregrated
Diamond Media Systems Inc Video card. I do have a
Real 3D Video Card PCB Model # 43-0014100
in the AGP slot.

Tried booting with the keylock jumpered. It generated the same error shown at
http://bp1.blogger.com/_DIcMNjz2m6s/R9NOdpcS8vI/AAAAAAAAAMk/oT00PRawJbc/s1600-h/TurtleError.JPG

Still unable to get past the keylock.

I'm really new at working in the case of a computer though I've used computers for many years. What should I try next? Is there some use for the solder dots(not sure that is the correct term) which are labeled CLR CMOS?

[The New Normal]

This should be the manual for your motherboard.

Forgive me if I missed it, but I don't see the manual, is there a link I can't see? I had a quick google but couldn't locate a manual myself.

I think it is a PCchips M710, but I'll wait for willcomp to tell me if that's right (well I was wrong, sod it, it's not an M710).

Clue us in willcomp, how does an old timer do it?

[willcomp]

My bad -- I forgot to post link. It's a GVC OEM board.

http://www.bcmcom.com/tech/kr632/KR632-man.pdf

Manufacturer code in AMI BIOS string is 1540 which translates to BCM. BIOS string is on bottom of screen that shows error messages. Now you know :)

[The New Normal]

I was wrong :(

I just googled the string, goes to show you can't believe everything you read on the internet, lol.

BTW: could the key-lock jumpers be for an old-style actual physical lock on some old cases? (just a thought)

[willcomp]

See my earlier post again -- edited to add last sentence.

BIOS string also tells you that it's an Intel 440LX chipset motherboard.

Yes, keylock pins are for a physical keylock that was used on most AT style cases and a few early ATX cases.

[The New Normal]

Yeah, the board I thought it was is a 440LX, I must have just misread a digit or 2.

So taking the battery probably reset the lock to its default. Shouldn't then shorting the pins change it to unlocked, or does it need to be plugged into a cable run to a lock and then unlocked (2nd option sounds silly to me).

[willcomp]

Yeah, the board I thought it was is a 440LX, I must have just misread a digit or 2.

So taking the battery probably reset the lock to its default. Shouldn't then shorting the pins change it to unlocked, or does it need to be plugged into a cable run to a lock and then unlocked (2nd option sounds silly to me).

Unshorted is unlocked and vice versa. Keylock switch is not needed. Remember, I recommended jumpering and then unjumpering pins. Wouldn't hurt to try with PC powered on as well. Just use caution.

Note: one can borrow a jumper from an optical drive if necessary.

[rmbeckman]

See my earlier post again -- edited to add last sentence.

BIOS string also tells you that it's an Intel 440LX chipset motherboard.

Yes, keylock pins are for a physical keylock that was used on most AT style cases and a few early ATX cases.

Read thru the manual trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong. I used a jumper from an extra cd drive I have. I read something at another site but thought it seemed a bit "scary"
I've got naturally straight hair and I'd like to keep it that way.

http://www.fixya.com/support/t293381-initial_configuration

(about mid-page)

[willcomp]

I've got naturally straight hair and I'd like to keep it that way.
(about mid-page)

I don't think low amperage 12VDC will give you too much of a curl :)

What have you tried so far?

[rmbeckman]

What have you tried so far?

I tried the jumper on the keylock pins. (with and without power
I tried using the small flathead screwdriver on the CLR CMOS dots.

I'm still getting the same CMOS settings errors.
And the keyboard while there are lights on it doesn't
work to take me to settings using DEL, F1 of F2.

Are there time limits etc that would make a difference in whether it would reset?

I'm very new to the inner workings of computers even though I've worked with computers

[willcomp]

No time outs that I'm aware of. Try removing battery again and leave out for at least 5 minutes. Maybe clearing CMOS again will help.

Jumper across keylock pins is only active when PC is powered on.

[The New Normal]

Hmmm, love to see this one solved.

Perhaps turn on 'puta and then put the jumper in (simulating turning the lock while it's on). Oh, that's what willcomp just said...

[rmbeckman]

No time outs that I'm aware of. Try removing battery again and leave out for at least 5 minutes. Maybe clearing CMOS again will help.

Jumper across keylock pins is only active when PC is powered on.

Tried removing CMOS battery again. This time for 30 min.
I'm only getting the CMOS Checksum error and the
Unlock Keyboard error now so I guess in some warped way that
is progress.

I did test it with another keyboard and also checked the charge on
the CMOS battery(which was fine)

I'm out of ideas for now.

[willcomp]

A long shot -- try a USB keyboard if you have one or can borrow one. A USB keyboard may not work on a PC of that vintage, but it's worth a try.

What was voltage on CMOS battery? If less than 3.1V, replace. CR2032 batteries are inexpensive and widely available -- including Wal Mart and Radio Shack.

[rmbeckman]

A long shot -- try a USB keyboard if you have one or can borrow one. A USB keyboard may not work on a PC of that vintage, but it's worth a try.

What was voltage on CMOS battery? If less than 3.1V, replace. CR2032 batteries are inexpensive and widely available -- including Wal Mart and Radio Shack.

I thought of using USB keyboard right after my last post but that didn't work either.

The battery charge was 3.11

I may try replacing it. Not sure that would help though unless I can get past the
unlock keyboard error.

I also tried putting the jumper on keylock pins while it was powered on.

No change in errors

[willcomp]

I'm all out of ideas at this point. I don't understand why BIOS is seeing keylock enabled with keylock pins unjumpered.

CMOS batteries usually work fine at 3.0V or above. A fresh battery should be between 3.25 and 3.3 volts.

[The New Normal]

OK, here's a couple of things to try:

Hi all
I stumbled on the same problem after I replaced bad ram in a customers machine. It would appear to relate to the NUMLOCK key on the far right of your keyboard. Pressing the NUMLOCK key as your computer goes through post (as it detects your ram and then hard-drives), just before the pointwhere your computer stops on the keyboard error, seems to get you though. In your bios ... somewhere, there is a setting to boot with numlock on or off. Normally it's set to on and should be no problem. Changing this setting might permanently fix the problem. If your not familiar with BIOS settings be realy CAREFUL. dont touch other settings in there or you'll REALY wish you didnt. Good luck all and i hope it helps. If your still stuck email me I'll help you if i can.

-----------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: keyboard is locket out - Unlock the key
Author: Tom
The last guy who answered is correct.

I was running an old computer on Windows 95 and it would start and gave me the 'keyboard is locked out - Unlock the key' message.

I tapped the Num Lock key on the keyboard upon restarting just before the 'keyboard is locked out - Unlock the key' screen appeared and it started just fine.

and

OK Problem Solved!!

Thanks for the quick response you guys:)
The problem was in the plugs from the front of the case, i reseated them and the problem was gone:)

From here about half-way down and here

[Big-Al]

Hi, Marie.

I have this same board but have never run into this problem. And contrary to willcomp it IS a Diamond Micronics manufactured board model C300. Diamond bought out Micronics a few years ago.

I have uploaded the manual for you to my eBay images server account at this link:
http://home.rochester.rr.com/deville/manual/c300man.pdf
I'll leave it up for a couple of weeks so you can download it. Please post back when you have downloaded it so I can remove it. My ISP doesn't give me much space...

Hope this is of some help for you!

Alan

[willcomp]

No, the motherboard was manufactured by BCM (GVC) and rebadged to a Micronics -- I was wrong about that being video card.

BIOS manufacturer code shows actual manufacturer.

Both manuals are for the same motherboard with a different name.

Interesting little exercise though.

[rmbeckman]

OK, here's a couple of things to try:
From here about half-way down and here

Sorry I haven't responded sooner.

I tried

1. Pressing Numlock key as PC is going thru post
2. Holding the RIGHT SHIFT key down for 8 seconds
3. Tried USB Keyboard

I'm going to take the CMOS battery out ..leave it out over spring break and then try again.
I really appreciate your ideas.

[rmbeckman]

Hi, Marie.

I have this same board but have never run into this problem. And contrary to willcomp it IS a Diamond Micronics manufactured board model C300. Diamond bought out Micronics a few years ago.

I have uploaded the manual for you to my eBay images server account at this link:
http://home.rochester.rr.com/deville/manual/c300man.pdf
I'll leave it up for a couple of weeks so you can download it. Please post back when you have downloaded it so I can remove it. My ISP doesn't give me much space...

Hope this is of some help for you!

Alan

Thanks I've saved a copy. This motherboard has the Diamond logo/emblem on it

[The New Normal]

I tried

1. Pressing Numlock key as PC is going thru post
2. Holding the RIGHT SHIFT key down for 8 seconds
3. Tried USB Keyboard

How about taking out from the motherboard and then putting back in (reseating) all the front plugs (power switch, reset switch etc.) just something else to try...

The problem was in the plugs from the front of the case, i reseated them and the problem was gone

I'm disappointed to say I may have to give up. Can't think of anything else...

[Big-Al]

Hi, Marie!

How goes the quest to Resurrect the Turtle? You might try removing the motherboard to check for foreign objects shorting it out. Maybe a lost screw or something. I had that happen to a customer once. Every time he pushed in his desk chair or jarred the desk in any way the PC would reboot! Turned out to be a case cover ground clip popped off and got underneath the board. Might be worth a shot. What about flashing the BIOS, have you tried that yet?

Alan

[rmbeckman]

Hi, Marie!

How goes the quest to Resurrect the Turtle? You might try removing the motherboard to check for foreign objects shorting it out. Maybe a lost screw or something. I had that happen to a customer once. Every time he pushed in his desk chair or jarred the desk in any way the PC would reboot! Turned out to be a case cover ground clip popped off and got underneath the board. Might be worth a shot. What about flashing the BIOS, have you tried that yet?

Alan

Hi Alan

No luck yet. I tried today. Took the motherboard out of case and reseated it. Still am getting the same error. I haven't tried flashing the BIOS because I can't get past the POST part and get the keyboard to work.