Member Avatar for Frensi

Hi guys,

I've had this problem with my computer. Every time i play a game my whole system crashes and blue lines come down the screen, it happens about 10 - 20 minutes into the game. Thing is this happened about 6 months ago, one day when it crashed i couldn't even turn it on so i went out and bought a new Motherboard, installed it and still wouldn't turn on so it wasn't the motherboard. Then as i was playing around with the wires it turned on (I had no idea what i done) and the computer worked for a few weeks until it happened again, this time i took out a stick of memory and it worked again. So i went happily playing games for about 5 months without issues when it happened again today while i was playing New Vegas. I don't know what it is, I'm starting to think it's the graphics card. I'm really not sure as it worked for 5 months after it wouldn't turn on.
I'm just confused at what it could be, It's definitely not my monitor. Should i go out and buy a new Video card?


I'm out of ideas and not a very hardware savvy guy.

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  • Latest Post Latest Post by Rik_

Dani AI

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Following points from , and , a short, practical diagnostic plan is most useful before buying new parts. The symptom set — system freezes under heavy 3D load and intermittent blue/graphical artefacts — narrows the suspects to GPU, power delivery, memory or the motherboard, but each should be ruled out methodically.

  1. Reproduce the crash with a GPU stress tool (example names are commonly used for this purpose) while logging symptoms: artifacts, fan behavior, and whether the system powers off or bluescreens.
  2. Check Windows Event Viewer for display-driver or power-related errors (driver timeouts, nvlddmkm/atikmpag-style entries) and note exact error names.
  3. Run a full memory test (bootable memtest) to confirm RAM is clean — intermittent RAM faults can appear only under load.
  4. Swap components to isolate: test the card in another known-good system, or test a different GPU/PSU in the problem machine. A successful swap pins the fault to one device.
  5. Inspect hardware visually and electrically: PCIe power connectors and card PCB for discoloration, loose solder, swollen capacitors on the motherboard, and heavy dust or seized fans. Do not open the PSU; only inspect its exterior and connectors.
  6. If driver corruption is suspected, perform a clean driver uninstall using a removal-tool approach from Safe Mode, then reinstall the current vendor driver.

Interpretation and next steps: a pass with a known-good PSU usually clears power-delivery as the cause; stable behavior when the card runs in another system implicates the motherboard or PSU. Given the risk of cascading damage from a failing PSU, replacing or bench-testing with a properly rated, good-quality supply is typically the safest early step. Hardware swaps are the quickest definitive test.

Safety note: always unplug mains and discharge capacitors by waiting before touching internals; avoid opening PSUs. The sequence above minimizes expense and pins down which replacement (PSU, GPU, RAM, or board) is actually required.

Recommended Answers

All 18 Replies

Member Avatar for Rik_

What power supply has it got in it? You will have too have a look at it's label!

Member Avatar for crunchie

It could possibly be an overheating problem. Grab GPU_z and open it whilst the card is under load.
Record what the top temp is.

Member Avatar for Frensi

It could possibly be an overheating problem. Grab GPU_z and open it whilst the card is under load.
Record what the top temp is.

It's not an overheating problem, I've checked.


What power supply has it got in it? You will have too have a look at it's label!

I bought a new PSU about 6 months ago actually, What would i need to check for?

Member Avatar for Rik_

What make and wattage is it and what spec is your PC?

It might also be a good idea to inspect the motherboard to see if any of the capacitors to see if any of them are domed or leaking!

Member Avatar for crunchie

Then as i was playing around with the wires it turned on

Which wires did you play with?

Member Avatar for Frensi

All the wires,

I want to add that i was playing Minecraft today for about 5 hours and it didn't happen, It seems to only happen on graphics heavy games.

Member Avatar for Rik_

We ask questions in order to try to get to a solution to your problem!
So far, the only 2 facts we can be sure of is that you have a pc and that it has a problem!
You need to furnish us with information if you want help with your problem.

Member Avatar for Rik_

The 8800 GTS is quite a power hungry graphics card so I need the info on your power supply!

Member Avatar for crunchie

cpu. 6000 or a 6600?

Member Avatar for Frensi

115/230v, i currently have it on 115v at the moment. Is that too low?

And this is what Xfire says it is -
Processor:
Intel(R) Core(TM)2 CPU 6600 @ 2.40GHz (2 CPUs), ~2.4GHz

Edited by Frensi because: n/a
Member Avatar for Lopht

It sounds like you are closer to your answer. IMO it is definitely either your PS or the nVidia card. RIK is right the 8800 sucks a lot of juice, when I built my gamebox I originally had 2x9600 nVidia cards in SLI. I had to up my power supply from a 700 to a 1000. But when researching why my system was crashing due to lack of power, it would just completly shut down. I am leaning to the video card especially when you say that it happens during heavy load. I currently run an ATI single 1gb card and have found my core temps have dropped substantially. The prices have dropped on high end cards these days so either way you'll definitely improve your situation with a new card and you will have your answer.

Member Avatar for Lopht

It's the watts we need to know not the voltage.

Member Avatar for Frensi

The watts are 165w and 360w. I'm not sure how i can change them.

Edited by Frensi because: n/a
Member Avatar for Lopht

You can't change them, the PS wattage is whatever the mfg made it. If it is a 360w PS it is definitely to low to run that card with a heavy load. I would recommend at least a 700w PS. I play World of Warcraft at the highest possible video setting (Ultra Mode) and with the 1000w I never have had any problems. The deal is you can never get a PS with to high a voltage, if you are a gamer and it sounds like you are, then I would definitely replace that PS and would consider the VC as well, if it fits in your budget. I bet all of your issues would be solved.

commented: Helpful post, thank you! +1
Member Avatar for Frensi

OK, thank you guys!


Thing is i don't know why it worked perfectly for 4 months then started acting up again. I'll buy a new Video card and PSU soon as they're not too expensive.

Member Avatar for Lopht

Sorry I meant to say wattage not voltage in the above response. I wish you well and I hope it all goes great for you. BTW when you deal with any type of hardware issue, intermittent problems are quite common. The fact that it worked for 4 months without incident is really not that anomalous. Either way I hope you get it all solved with the recommendations I have suggested.

Member Avatar for Rik_

Thing is i don't know why it worked perfectly for 4 months then started acting up again.

Power supplies do actually age, especially when run often at or close to maximum output. The closer to the maximum they are run the hotter they get, the hotter they get the more rapidly the components age.

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