My system is pretty much clean. By BD and ewido - nothing in reg. nor mem. nor system files. Except for that one in SVI dir.
What I need is a tool that will work in repair mode (the closest thing to DOS mode). I can access SVI dir by a certain procedure. (rather, strange set of circumstances). I doubt that any AV software can access SVI while XP is fully running.
If you know of such a tool, post it pls.
P.S. I'll do the hijack thing later. I'm kind of in the middle of something right now.
By the way, my BD almost died. All the sudden I wasn't able to turn on firewall (!) nor update. I looked up in event viewer and foud this:
The BitDefender Scan Server service failed to start due to the following error: The service did not respond to the start or control request in a timely fashion.
Rebooted couple of times and updated. DB is back to normal.
Have no fear. The instructions I gave you should get your booting faster.
Tip: Do it step at the time, so you can keep track of changes you make in bios, just in case you make system not work. Specialy HD settings for they are only ones that can make your system not boot.
My, oh my.. I just realised that your system hangs at booting. (key word: hang)
Kind of reading lapsus.
Bad battery can mess up the custom bios settings (CMOS), so what you want to do is load system default settings and then apply those I've recommended.
I'm currently using BitDefender Pro (UpToDate) that says that it found Trojan.Dropper.VB.Q in C:\systrm volume information\... (whole path cann't fit the message window) and that my system has NOT been infected (Yeah...right....sysem volume information...Hell, even I am not allowed there!)
Tried scaning via windows explorer right-click menu...nothing Tried scaning via BD scan (whole disk)...shutdown (software type) Tried again...shutdown Tried again, but only dir in question....you guess right..shutdown. Tried safe-mode but BD won't work in safe mode (at least, mine won't)
Anyway, I'm open to suggestions of which scaner shell I use to get rid of this little bugger. (bare in mind the location)
How many optical drives do you realy have installed? CD and DVD drive? Are they on the same cable? In that case, one of them have to be set as master. If you didn't change the jumper yet, then they are both slaves.
Regarding the speed, you should pay attention to the bios settings, (transfer mode setting...if auto change to highest supported), and settings in device manager, (actualy, ide controller properties, also transfer mode setting).
I'm not sure what you mean when you say that you had them on your desktop. Do you mean shortcuts? Before you had 2nd drive installed?
From what I can see, you'll need to do couple of things. Try changing settings in folder options (show hidden files and folders).
If that dosn't help, search the drive in question for errors. It will probably recover the folders and files that are missing. Possibly the names of folders are lost (thay will be DIR0001, DIR0002 and so), that is, if the files were in folders and not in the root. In that case the files will be named FILE0001.CHK, (or somthing). You will have to conclude for your self which is which.
Your problem is very simple one.....lack of drivers. Your videocard driver is not installed. (gasp) Possibly chipset driver also needs installing. If you post a VGA model (exact) someone will give you more precise instructions of what to do.
The problem resides in monitor. The picture is combined of 3 colored beams (red, green and blue). It is obvious that blue and green beams on your screen disappear from time to time, leaving only red.
Every monitor has varistor for each color. What you can do is open up the monitor and inspect solders for cracks and discolorations (spark burns). I suspect that varistors for blue and green (usualy placed at the other end of the tube) have a cracked solders and they are usualy marked. If you find any, soldate them.
Make sure to unplugg the power cable and flip the switch in "on" position before you open it.
Do not try to adjust any of the varistors, for you'll distrort the picture.
Is your system is otherwise working normaly, you will have to edit SYSTEM.INI, WIN.INI or system registry to avoid those error reports.
Use notepad to open your SISTEM.INI/WIN.INI and find any refereces to the vxd's and dll you're missing and delete those lines.
Use regedit.exe (in your windows/system dir) and open reg key HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlset\Services\VxD\vnetsup HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlset\Services\VxD\vredir HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlset\Services\VxD\dfs
1. CD is always the SLAVE drive, unless you have 2 CD drives on same IDE channel (read: on same cable), so if you set your CD drive's jumper on MASTER it will not work.
2. You didn't state what kind of Hard disc nor chipset/motherboard is installed. Is it IDE or ATA? If it's ide (40-pin cable, identical to CD drive's one) then it MUST be jumper-set on master, otherwise the BIOS will not recognize the drive.
3. If it is a combination of ATA hd and XP professional (not SP1 or 2) then you have another issue on your hands. Apperently, XP pro has trouble with recognizing ATA drives (technicaly, controllers like Nforce4), so you will have to make driver floppy, the one you will need to insert upon windows setup message to press f6 for 3rd party drivers. Your CD that came with your motherboard is bootable, and, prior to installing the win you will have to boot from that cd to make the driver floppy.
There is allways possibility that you flashed wrong version of bios. It doesn't allways have to go blank-screen on you.
P.S. It is ironic that only way to setup high-end machine like that is by FLOPPY disc.
Anyway, there must be a discription in your event log like:
Type : Error Event Id : 1000 Description : Windows cannot unload your registry file. If you have a roaming profile, your settings are not replicated. Contact your administrator. Detail: Access is denied
Then it must be some kind of power failure. Try to get your hands on a battery (you did say that youd don't have one) to bypass the psu. Post the results.
I think that it's definitly a powe issue. When you pull the cable out you obviusly shock the system (maybe, for example, the display "blinks" and such) and it's subtile enough that system don't detect any voltage change, but it's enough to mess up memory, hd operation or whatever. (I'm shooting in a dark here) Then, again, it can be the mechanical shock of pulling the cable caused by loose memory stick. Try shaking a laptop to see if you can reproduce the same effect.
You didn't say if the system behaves normaly when running on battery only.
Regarding a 350 MB file, try this for a size (testing purpose): Instead of deleting it try renaming it. If windows don't let you rename it try doing it in a DOS session (exit to DOS) then see what goes on with your outlook express. If everithing comes to normal just delete the renamed file. If not, ther is always option of removing the outlook express - if ms office is not installed: Control panel\Add/remove Programs/Setup windows components - just uncheck the oulook express check box - if the ms office is installed you will have to remove it via microsoft office setup progam
To reinstall it you will need Win install CD or office CD.
As for the other thing, there is a option via tools(explorer window menu bar)/folder settings to open windows in a same window or separate windows.
Can you be specific about your soundcard? If you're no tekkie there is a number unique to every model od any electronic part made called FCCID and it's printed on your soundcard somewhere. Just post it here.
There are settings you will like to adjust to speed up things a little:
standard cmos settings
hd settings manualy set to user type LBA mode (not autodetect)
1 quick POST - enabled 2 Boot sequence 1 -c (or hard drive) 2 - a (or floppy) 3 Floppy disc boot seek - disabled 4 any cash that you see - enabled (in some instances the choice can be (int/ext))
If the processor is pickin up heat and the fan is not runnin... maybe the fan is out of order (less painfull possibility) or just not getting power. Anyway there is posibility that the fan is the cause of your problems. Try reinstalling the old fan (if it's still around).
There might be CPU protection against overheating that is triggered by still fan.
I remember one problem I had years ago with multiple drives. 3 of them. 3rd (Master on ch2) was all the sudden unformatted (or disappeared from bios, don't recall) when I changed partition formation on 1st (deleted logical drive, primary partition and created 1 Primary and active partition that concluded 100% of available space). The problem was that 3d drive also had an active primary partition. When I put it from "master" to "cable select" it reappeared, so I was able to access files (and copy them and setup partiton properly). Maybe this little story can help you (or confuse you even further).
Some HDs have jumper combination for master AND for single drive mode. If it is only HD then set it on single (optical drive is always slave) Try changing settings in your BIOS regarding a HD mode (CHS/Large/LBA/Auto) to LBA. Default should be Auto. Some HDs also have other jumpers (ex: for no. of cylinders) try changing those aswell. But do it 1 at a time. And unplug CD before you sort HD.
You should also bare in mind limitaitions of that HD (brand unknown) regarding data transfer. Newer IDE controllers have newer technology, while old HDs don't. Usualy HDs are 1 step ahead. It is posibble to change the data transfer settings in bios also (look for UDMA 133/166/.....). That must match HDs capabilities. Anything over the top results in data loss, disk write errors and so.
Maybe you should post models of the disks in question (there are 2 right?)
I've been puting them together from 486 on. No damage, no fuss, no second tries (if you don't count win installation) so you don't have to preach me somthing I know. I'll let you in on a little secret.
IT'S A JOKE! But I'm sure you knew that.
45 minutes from scrach - yeah, right.
Install windows hour or so - in ya dreams. Try XP Pro (not sp1 or sp2) on nforce4 without floppy drive.
And the prices are same one way or another, only the brand PCs have stuff we don't need (like Windows) and don't ones we need (like extra 5 audio chanells).
You falshed wrong BIOS. Only way to correct (by your self) that problem is to make a boot floppy disc that should look like this: autoexec.bat config.sys io.sys msdos.sys command.com awdflash.exe (flashing program) 12345678.bin (BIOS file)
delete "config.sys" - it can only create problems
Autoexec.bat must only contain a line for flashing program Here is an example (remember, you do not have any video output, so any prompting by a flashin program will stall the process):
awdflash a:\12345678.bin /SN /PY /CC /R
Li'l explanation: /SN (No Save) - it will not prompt you for the filename where to save your current bios /PY (Program BIOS) - it will not prompt you wether or not it will program your bios /CC (Clear CMOS) -it will clear CMOS settings without prompting /R (Restart) - will automaticly reboot upon finishing
These commands vary form program to program and version to version
It can take 5 minutes or more to finish the process, so be patient.
If you inform me of those numbers I told you to write down (or exact model) I could give you exact instructions.
Looks to me like your account is corrupted. Error 1000 suggests failed to load/create your account. Try loging on as a "administrator" (that's user name, password is yours to know) to create new account for your self and log on to that new account from now on.
I browsed trough microsoft knowlege base and first similar issue is connected with a program called "Visual IP InSight" from Visual Networks. If you installed it recently, according to them, it will cause such problems. (following is copy-pasted)
1.Click Start, click Run, type appwiz.cpl, and then click OK. 2.Click Visual IP InSight in the Add or Remove Programs list, and then click Remove. 3.In the Confirm File Deletion dialog box, click Yes.
It would be useful if you provided me with names of recently installed software, drivers, upgrades (like Service packs) and such to narrow down a list of possible causes and cures. And, ofcourse, which windows are you using also.
If you have automatic windows update enabled, you can get a list of updates installed on your system on windows (or microsoft) update page ("Review your updates" link).
Is it giving any signs of life? If not, it's probably just a busted fuse. More likely the problem lies with the power supply unit. $30 for a new one. No big deal. Make sure the casing is grouded (via power cabe). Thunderstorms create a lot of static charge which can damage sensible (read: expensive and vital) parts of your system. It's allways wise to shut it down, if you don't have UPS with precharge protection (for modem line too). Don't go making mistakes like me - defragmenting a drive during storm (suffices to say, it ended with formating) and such.
If you have no picture on your screen could mean smoked VGA or (as mentioned) power supply.
Sometimes it's just a residue charge in the system that needs to be discharged via grouding, but it's a long shot.
If it says that 1.8 GHz is the best it can support, that dosn't mean 2.0 won't work. It can be that 1.8 was the best available CPU for that slot. If your system says (my computer/properties) that CPU is 2.0 then it's working. Run DXDiag.exe to be sure (first page gives you current CPU frequency).
Does it show up in disk manager or device manager? If it's brand new, that means that no partitions have been created. Windows explorer doesn't show HARD DRIVES but PARTITIONS ON THEM. So, if your 300 GB disk has no partition, nothing of it gets to be shown in windows explorer. Create partition via disk manager and format it (NTFS, ofcourse).
Is it on same IDE channel as master? (You did say PRIMARY master and SECONDARY slave) If it is not then it must be set to master mode also. Slave drive without master (on the same channel) can mess up BIOS HD detection. Only, XP bypasses BIOS, when it comes to detecting drives. Try seting it on master mode, and it just could bring it back to life.
Why, oh why would you go doing something like that? :?: It is obvious that you did somethin wrong with psu. Your laptop isn't getting the power at all from it. Either you didn't connect it properly or you just plain tosted the psu.
Are you sure you connected ALL wires? (you stated "a wire" as a singular(!?))
