Posts by gerbil

"I don't see the repair option for some reason." If you are using M$ disks, then if no option to Repair the installation appears it means that Setup cannot find valid registry hives. Right. If you are getting in to see the \repair folder contents copy over SAM [there is a SAM, right?], Security, Software, System, default to system32\config
DS_SAM... is that a Dell sys?. Then if no SAM you could prob copy over [and rename as you do it] DS_SAM to SAM. It may be a basic Dell recovery option SAM hive... I am guessing here.
Re the drop and catch... I looked at a drive here... it is rated to 75Gs. That would be a drop of the drive itself from a metre or more onto concrete; something with bounce like timber would be higher Gs....

:icon_lol:
The trouble I went to just to get that icon...
Anyway, on that Safe mode boot screen try the Enable VGA mode options. Then if you can see, scoot into msconfig and set the correct startups.
However...your mb has integrated graphics? [ you removed your video card, must have plugged into something..]. I don't think that in msconfig Startups you can stop anything drastically important so as to, say, kill your video. [Leave igfxpers running]. I don't know what loads after plugnplay [PNP.sys]; something low down the order, human interface devices, I would hazard.

Hello, skitzo.
"Problem is, when I load the reinstall of windows onto my 17 gig partition, XP uses my storage partition for the boot sector without even asking me. I want that partition left alone!" Ummm... going from what you say in this next bit... "The best thing to do would be to load my storage files temporarily onto another drive and then not mark that partition active until I've ..." ...I get the feeling that you have your data partition marked as Active..? Don't do that... Windows Setup will automatically load its boot files there. A hdd should have only one partition marked as Active, the one where you want your boot files to be [er.. the System drive]. So set as Active the partition where you want Windows to load. Bily's guided you right. :)

Billy, I'd be dangerous if I had a nasty streak... Something i did not get around to telling you before: it is that nothing in Windows will remove the Active setting from a partition, but plenty of freeware applications will. Here are a couple of beauties:
http://firesage.com/mbrwizard.php
-download the commandline tool from CLI Freeware tab, the guide on CLI Reference tab comes with the dl as an html file. The tool has a good helpfile which opens when you run the command with /?. You run it from the cmd window.
A lil tip, to save you loading it into your C: root. Save the tool to where you put any similar tools; to run it open a cmd window, then from where you put the tool drag MBRWiz.exe from an explorer window into the cmd window. Ta.da!! Saves manipulating the cmd prompt directory. Just add /? and press Enter. Note that this is an MBR tool.... by that I mean that it deals only with the MBR, so it will not recognise logical partitions [they are not listed in the MBR]. Cool with that?
The next tool; what you cannot do with this aint worth doing. Testdisk from www.cgsecurity.org. Dangerous as, if you're the sort of chap that does foolish things. But very good.
Anyway, both of those will remove the Active setting from a partition. Do make sure you leave the one on your System drive [where the …

Nero buries itself pretty deeply into your OS. To do the job properly it is best you get the removal tool from their website. Gurgle " Nero uninstall cleantool"

"went straight for FixMBR "... this action should not have hurt anything. It just replaces the code section of the MBR with stock Windows code.
" I navigated to the [config] folder and I see system.sav and system.log but no other files." What files are in \repair folder? sam, security, software, system, default?
Was the hdd running [ie lappy ON] when you mis-handled it? I don't have any idea what sort of g's they can endure before the heads to a dive onto the surface. I'd go back and do a chkdsk /p via Recovery Console. If that gets you access to data, get it off. And then.... run a hdd test utility.
If chkdsk does not help then try the Repair option via Windows Setup.

M$ to the rescue on this one, I hope...
In this linked page follow the instruction to merge all the reg settings at once. And note that if you then restore to a time previous to this merging you will lose the merging! [and they say as such, but in a very convoluted way...]
http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;EN-US;q313853

If there is no case fan fitted I would not be too concerned aout instructing BIOS to disable it. Delete key to enter BIOS?
Anyway, if that startup screen that shows your drives does not indicate BIOS Setup options [key presses] then perhaps it is time to reset BIOS.

Hi. Go Start; in the run box enter:
inf
In the window that opens scroll down to sr.inf
-rclick it, choose Install, follow the prompts if any.
This will reinstall your system restore module.

The hosts file entries... any chance your sys has been infected by malware?

Cz, would you mind running this for us:
==download hijackthis: http://www.majorgeeks.com/download5554.html
-copy it to a new FOLDER placed either alongside your program files or on your desktop and then...
-in that folder start HijackThis by dclicking the .exe
-CLOSE ALL OTHER APPLICATIONS and any open windows including the explorer window containing HijackThis.
-click the Scan and Save a Logfile button. Post the log here.

Ok, then the default username is anything [it is not checked], the default password is admin, as you have tried. Perhaps you changed it? Anyway, a long press on the Reset button [inside a pinhole, press for 10 secs or so...] should get you past that problem. PW will then be admin.

:))
Good enough. Just keep an eye out for that failure not being a simple connector issue but rather a failure in the chip itself where it handles that port. Warranty?

Well, if you have asked online with your router model for the detail, checked your booklet.... then it is time to press the Reset button on the rear. This does mean you will have to re-enter all non-default settings if you have not saved them in a backup file. We cannot help further because you have omitted to tell us your router model. Simple as that.

IT sounds like you still have malware there, Baby. AV services don't bother themselves with adware etc. But these two tools do. The first is a superb cleaning tool, the second let's us see what is running on your computer. Firstly...
==Please download Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware
from: http://www.majorgeeks.com/Malwarebytes_Anti-Malware_d5756.html
or: http://www.besttechie.net/tools/mbam-setup.exe
=Dclick that file, mbam-setup.exe, to install the application,
-ensure that it is set to update and start, else start it via the icon, and UPDATE it.
Select "Perform QUICK Scan", then click Scan; the application will guide you through the remaining steps.
ENSURE that EVERYTHING found has a CHECKMARK against it, then click Remove Selected.
If malware has been found [and removed] MBAM will automatically produce a log for you when it completes... do not click the Save Logfile button.
Examine the log: if some files are listed as Delete on Reboot then restart your machine before continuing.
Copy and post that log [it is also saved under Logs tab in MBAM].
Then...
==download hijackthis: http://www.majorgeeks.com/download5554.html
-copy it to a new FOLDER placed either alongside your program files or on your desktop and then...
-in that folder start HijackThis by dclicking the .exe
-CLOSE ALL OTHER APPLICATIONS and any open windows including the explorer window containing HijackThis.
-click the Scan and Save a Logfile button. Post the log here.

mb or PSU. Are you technically competent? Check PSU voltages at a spare drive connector plus at the big mb connector while the sys is running. Carefully.
42C is fine for a CPU.... 50C is not a problem.

Somewhere, in the router booklet or printed on the router case itself, will be the default username and pasword to use. If not, then gurgle for it using the router model.
The "401 Authorization required" is just telling you that you did not enter correct information. But otherwise, you're doing okay. Keep learning. [Try admin for username also].

All you can do now is borrow another hdd and try it. If BIOS jams on a drive you know is good then the mb is toast. Check your warranty, many are 2 years.
The Southbridge is, in your mb's case, one of two largeish chips that make up the chipset, denoted 410 or 430 in that Nvidia 6100 kit. The Southbridge handles communications, all disks and USB etc, ethernet, audio....
It STILL could be your PSU unable to supply the load [miniscule] demanded by a drive. If you have a meter check the 12V and 5V levels on a spare drive power connector with a hdd connected [it takes a decent tech shop just seconds to test it under load].
By the time POST gets to checking the chipset it has already done a skimpy memory test. You MAY be able to run a check via a bootable flash drive test. May.... A bootable test is Memtest 86+ - gurgle it. You can get flashdrive version fromn the homesite, saves burning a cd. Run it for some time, at least half an hour. A single failure is a total failure of that particular module. But, if the Southbridge failure is complete you won't be able to connect anything successfully. With no hdd can your sys boot with a cd/dvd drive?

Sounds like it is failing on the hardware test part.... below the F10/F2 lines do you see your SATA hdd identified? Reason I ask is because it may be your disk interface that failed.... the Southbridge. Try booting with no hdd connected, see if you can enter BIOS via F2. If yes, then perhaps your mb or PSU have a problem. A tech can do a quick load test on your PSU with a plug in tester module.

The OS is the driver for the CPU... :). What you need are chipset and other hardware drivers. Google your mb model, network adapter model etc.

Hmmm... I'd search harder for that cd.
But I must thank you for something I have learned from this..... to NEVER buy anything that has a product from Agere/LSI in it. NEVER. Ever.

Well, now you know the driver you need, it should be just a matter of getting it. Agere ET-131x PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet Driver 1.2.8.0 Windows 2000/XP
Zdnet?

Ascertain that your Cryptographic Service has started, is set to Automatic.

Hi. Check that you have set correct date and time.

Expand C:\Windows. See all the blue $MIS... or $NT... Uninstall folders? You can delete those IF your system is working well. If you delete anything you mention from the CP Add/Rem Pgms list you will uninstall those items [updates]. That would be silly.
SP3? Go to Windows and dl the update .enu.exe file. Install it. Easy as. Safe as. Search engines pick up all the complaints, but the many tens of millions who did it correctly and had no problem don't go onto websites.

Gee, I did not realise the opendrivers site was such a pest to manipulate! They certainly try to block download waste. Eventually, msi.com.tw comes up, a notoriously busy, but safe, site.
L715LAN is here also: http://www.driversdownload.org/driver,2628,Agere_ET-131x_PCI-E_Gigabit_Ethernet_Driver_1_dot_2_dot_8_dot_0_Windows_2000XP.html
It is this driver: Agere ET-131x PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet Driver 1.2.8.0 Windows 2000/XP
Oh, restart after loading a driver to force the hardware to use it.

Not that I know of, at least per individual, connected machine. You can use your router settings to stop them associating with your access point [router], but then they will not be able to share with other computers on your network. Elaborate. Are these your co-workers, family, friends, or snoopers? The first bunch you just threaten to withold security, food or sex from, the snoopers you can try to block.

Expand just means click the +, or whatever, to see folders within. Anyway, you gave enough info in your first post to identify the adapter, the PCIVEN 11C1&DEV ED00&SUBSYS 010C1854&REV 024&23F5EDAD&0&00E0. Somehow, I read past it... missed it. Sigh.
So, this is the driver you desire: http://www.opendrivers.com/driver/236695/agere-et-131x-pci-e-gigabit-ethernet-driver-1.2.8.0-windows-2000-xp-free-download.html
Cheers.

Yep, hide your access point, choose WPA2, or WPA2-PSK security, and set a decent keyword [several words, numbers].

I was thinking more along the lines of data theft, khaki, but nevertheless...

Hans.... yes, the RC does show you that command, exit. Go back to there, and type in the command I gave you...
chkdsk /p

Damian... open Device Manager > Network Adapters, expand that... give us the name of your PCI-E Ethernet Controller listed there. Else use that name to search for a driver.

RECYCLER is your recycle bin. Delete someting.... it will pop there. Empty the bin.. it will go from RECYCLER [or one of its subfolders].
To check if a file is valid open its properties... see if it is signed.

If you have an XP installation disk, or can borrow one, then start the Recovery Console [via Repair an existing installation option] and run...
chkdsk /p

I'll reword that... I believe it would be against room policy to help you with such a matter.

Hiren, if your office staff have put a block there to stop you writing to a flash drive then we certainly will not guide you upon removing that block. They did it for their security. Please do not ask here for such help.

Hello, touch. If you can connect when you enter an IP then you have a DNS resolution problem. I could go through it with you, but this link explains it: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/305553

Surely you have a cd with chipset drivers on it, that came with your system [motherboard?]

I wandered off... I use Ctrl-Alt-Del. Also Ctrl-Shift_Esc.

Okay, that is your explorer.exe [the GUI shell] stopping, restarting. You likely have some sort of infection. You can work without explorer, it's just tedious.
Start a browser by opening Task Manager and typing eg... firefox into the File > New task box. You can then use your browser as a GUI somewhat like explorer : simply type eg. C:\ into the address bar; you C: root folder will be displayed. You can start an application by dclicking it in this window, open a text file, whatever. If your programs are in E:\program files, type in E:\ into the address bar, then go down and dclick Program Files. And so on. So:
==Please download Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware
from: http://www.majorgeeks.com/Malwarebytes_Anti-Malware_d5756.html
or: http://www.besttechie.net/tools/mbam-setup.exe
=Dclick that file, mbam-setup.exe, to install the application,
***** Start it either by typing its pathname into the TM Run box. eg C:\mbam-setup.exe, or use your browser as I explained above.*****
-ensure that it is set to update and start, else start it via the icon, and UPDATE it.
Select "Perform QUICK Scan", then click Scan; the application will guide you through the remaining steps.
ENSURE that EVERYTHING found has a CHECKMARK against it, then click Remove Selected.
If malware has been found [and removed] MBAM will automatically produce a log for you when it completes... do not click the Save Logfile button.
Examine the log: if some files are listed as Delete on Reboot …

slserv.exe is for your smartlink modem? You can see that catchme.tmp is in combofix. ctfmon.exe runs because you have MS Office? The remainder are [normally] standard processes to be seen on any machine. Any chance of seeing your combofix logs?
To remove combofix, go Start, in the run box, type combofix /u and press enter.

Did you install a driver for your USB/Serial adapter? Then before you reinstall XP and confront all that entails, why not try reinstalling the USB drivers? You could use your chipset driver cd that came with your system, or go to Device Manager, expand USB Serial Bus Controllers, and update drivers from the Microsoft website.

Elaborate on "blank screen". Is it black, white, blue... ?

And the email client you are using is...?

Sunil, when you first start your sys [press the power button], do you see BIOS running the POST at startup? After 4 or 5 seconds does the hdd lamp begin to flash?
If nothing appears on your monitor except for some message that means No Signal then your first check would be RAM... pull one stick if you have two or more, swap them if your sys still does not work [before doing this, power OFF at the wall, ground your hands to the chassis].
I know you have checked your monitor cable. Take the monitor next door and see if it works on your friend's sys. You might score some rasgullas.
If nothing alters , then you have a big problem... RAM, mb, cpu, or psu [power supply].

Or get a laptop.... biiig laptop with a decent screen. I loathe them myself, but it may be a cheaper solution than a UPS. And then you have automatic battery backup.
I use Syncback Free from http://www.2brightsparks.com/ I have set it to start automatically and backup once daily, but you might set it to backup incrementally every 15 mins. You won't know it is running. Backs up to removables and externals, too. If I have some work I want to BU continually then that is just a matter of starting the pgm and leaving it to BU that Group at the interval I set, nothing else to do.

Mmm... in BIOS there MAY be an item labelled "OS install mode". Uncheck it. Never seen it, myself.
Just because you bought new RAM, it doesn't mean it is good. Always buy RAM with a lifetime warranty [which for a sys [or mb] is maybe 5, 8 years..:]. I have bought warranted RAM, it has failed... they just toss you a replacement over the counter. No questions.

Something like Uniblue Driverscanner will do a thorough scan, then list the modules that could be updated... [which tells you just what you could go and get freely]; dls via driverscanner itself are only after registration. Of course, if your system is working perfectly you could question the need for any updates at all. Often updates are to fix bugs found with mismatches to recently released equipment which you do not have [check the update release notes for its purpose]. Rarely do they include new features. I could get an ethernet adapter driver update, but mine works fine. Anyway, let's get it... here is how:
Either:
- google the device's name as found in device manager or the driver scanner, download the driver file[s] from a reputable site and save to a scratch folder. Then in Device Manager, rclick the hardware, select Update Driver > No, not this time > Install from a List or Location. Browse to the folder containing the drivers [you extracted from the dl file] and install.
- else in Device Manager, rclick the hardware, select Update Driver > Connect to Windows Update > This Time Only > Install automatically.
Restart, and your sys will commence using the new drivers. If it all blows up, then in DM choose Rollback driver [you would have noticed the old drivers being saved during the above process].
Another scanner is DeviceDoctor [free]. DriverMax?
The paid services will all tempt you to pay by …

Showing us the hijackthis log would be a start... just running it cures nothing.

It's always a worry when your DNS server comes back with this: "fec0:0:0:ffff::
These machines are getting out of hand....
Anyway... you tried what??!! " I have tried "ping ip_address_of_the_router" "
You mean... ping 192.168.1.1 ? or whatever? I hope.
Because you have just done a reinstallation, I would go with a driver or installation problem. Reload the drivers for your ethernet adapter, if that doesn't work then just reinstall XP.