Posts by Chaky

Judging form the symptoms, I would suspect the PSU to be the problem. Every PSU has a fuse and, if shorted, fuse can "pop".

You can usually burn-marks inside PSU if you open it up.
It is arguably the cheapest part of PC.

Yes, my IE has been acting really wired last week. Sometimes it would "refuse" to run at all until rebooted. I have too many conflicting programs installed.

I dislike them both .. :x

ditto

Yes, but with mini and midi towers it is practically impossible because of the lack of space.

If you are talking about IDE drives, almost every PC has 2 IDE channels, and each channel hosts 2 drives. With SATA, you'll need at least 3 SATA channels to have 3 drivers. Some PCs have only 2 SATA jacks.

P.S.
Wrong forum.

Nevermind.

Everything went back to normal after a reboot.

Everything is out of place here on daniweb.Looks like EVERYTHING is center-aligned, or something.Is it only me that is seeing this?

So, back in the 20's they replaced cocaine with caffeine.
What's next? THC? A Pot-a-Cola.:mrgreen:

I need a good Mac / Atari Stacy emulator for Linux / Windows, but I can't find any good user-friendly ones. They all give me these "ROMS not installed" and "error restarting emulator" errors.

I have used SoftMac, PearPC, and Gemulator, with all the same error.

Any good emulators?

I can recomend winston. You can also download source, but you'll still need the TOS (ST DOS) ROM image. Last I've heard is someone is claiming the copyright on it.
It's something like having a PC emulator on MAC, but you still need to buy a copy of windows from MS. Or BIOS from award.

In vino veritas.

Nope, FAT32 doesn't support any disk compression. (atleast, none that I've heard about)
FAT16 does (2 GB partition limit), but none of the NT based OSes (Windows XP, NT and so) would be able access nor compress them.

Coke makes Ariel look like instant drink. (just add water...)

Is this still on?

I'm sure you meant "%SystemRoot%\fonts" where the %SystemRoot% variable stands for path to Windows installation directory.

There is a way to bypass some of the setup checks that windows setup does and sometimes fails to resume with repair or fresh install.

Setup program tends to check if there is windows already installed on your HD. There are some trivial problems (such as corrupted or missing file) that can make windows unrepairable. I had similar experience with corrupted registry, where I couldn't move past square 1 (BSOD when the setups checks for the installed windows).

Here is what you need to do:

Enter BIOS and disable your HD. When HD is disabled, setup program doesn't try to check the current windows installation, but it still has access to HD.
Reboot from setup CD, and use repair console to access CD and HD.

You'll be prompted to log on to your C:\WINDOWS installation (ironic) and for the admin password.

After that you just type "expand d:\i386\vgaoem.fo_ c:\windows\fonts\vgaoem.fon". I'm guessing that your CD drive is "d:" and your windows path is "c:\windows".

P.S.
Something tells me you already fixed it.

I'll tell you what I did.

I bought AMD Athlon processor and tossed away (not really, I still have it here) the heatsink and fan, and got myself a brand new Thermaltake Golden orb II (fancy name). It is a cheap (~$30) replica of Zalman (Zalman is like Ferrari with CPU fans). Didn't even bother with the original heatsink/fan.

P.S.
It glows in the dark :lol:

If you have nForce4 chipset and SATA II drive, that is normal. You'll need to switch the jumper on you HD to SATA I. (NVIDIA's fault)

That is what I ment.

I guess you can give MSI guys something to wrap their heads around. I'm out of ideas.

I think that your mobo is dying. If it was CPU, you wouldn't get anything at all.

Here is a true story:

My father (retired ship engineer) told me that, once they had a huge problem with ship's auxiliary engine. That kind of engine is used to run the generator and is usually the size of the engine that is used to propel the locomotive. (just to give you an image of the size)

Apparently, the piston got stuck inside the cylinder and it was stuck so hard that none of the power tools and equipment was unable to jerk it free of the cylinder. They all gave up on fixing the problem, until the chief engineer decided to pour in the cylinder a box of coca-cola. 20 minutes later, piston came out without any effort.

Anyone care for some coke?

There is one setting in BIOS that can make windows not boot.
That is "ACPI APIC support" setting (in advanced power management).
If it was disabled (or enabled) when the windows were installed, and enabled (or disabled) afterward, the windows will not boot until that setting is reversed.

So I suggest that you try fail-safe defaults with exception of "ACPI APIC support" setting. You just have to get it right, whether it was enabled or disabled when windows were installed.

Look here for MSI recomended settings for your CPU.

Go into Cell menu and press f7. This will restore "optimized settings".

If the windows won't boot now, enter BIOS and load fail-safe defaults.
This will make some performance-degrading changes in a sense of data transfer rates and such. But it is the most stable settings.

If those won't work, then you have malfunctioning piece of hardware on your hands. Most probably memory module.

To test it, remove one stick and observe the changes regarding CPU speed. Test both sticks in different slots. If there are no changes, it is either mobo (my second suspect) PSU or CPU.

Only way to test CPU is to plug it in a mobo that you know is healthy.
Only way to test PSU is to replace it with PSU that you know is healthy.

It all depends on what you need your PC for.

Package 1 is ideal for office/IT/text processing usage.

Package 2 is for games/3d CAD software usage.

If you're not a gamer, I say package 1.
If you are 3d graphic designer, go for 2
Package 2 has one flaw. LAN. 100 Mb is old news. Don't go under 1 Gb. (not stated in first package)

I suggest that whatever you choose, google it to see if ppl are complaining about it. Especially motherboard. Just in case you've chosen some buggy piece.

My mistake was GEIL memory module. (no customer support)

If you can't get past logo, and can't enter bios, it is as good as dead. Only thing you haven't done is change the CPU, and that wouldn't do any good, because CPU is obviously working.

I'm saying this under impression that you have some sort of keyboard attached to the motherboard.

I think that it is dead.

I've downloaded manual for your mobo. It has somewhat different names for the settings that are generally labeled the same in other mobos.

Here's what your Cell menu (this one is called "JumperFree configuration" in my BIOS) should look like:

High Performance Mode [Optimal]

If you were having problems with that set to "optimal" (which translates as "auto") then try applying these settings:

High Performance Mode [Manual]
Dynamic Overclocking [Disabled]
CPU Voltage [CPU Default]
Memory Voltage [Auto]

Adjust CPU FSB Frequency [200]
Adjust CPU ratio [11]

or

Adjust CPU FSB Frequency [100]
Adjust CPU ratio [22] (if x22 exists)

CPU Interface [Optimal]
Adjust DRAM Freq (FSB : DRAM) [1:2]
Memory Timings [Optimal]
...
AGP Clock Control [Default]
FSB Spread Spectrum [0.50%] (or [Disabled] for more stability)
AGP Spread Spectrum [Disabled]

If it was a CPU setting that would cause you such trouble, you wouldn't get past POST. Not even to the Windows logo.

P.S.

Your BIOS (and, therefore, the Windows too) are not "misreading" your CPU. It is being underclocked by 50%. So, you get "AMD Athlon 1100 MHz" instead of the usual 2200.

If your HD is formated to NTFS, you can:

- rightclick your drive in windows explorer and select "proprieties"
- check "compress drive to save disk space" checkbox and click "OK" button
- confirm that you want to compress subfolders too
- when prompted to skip files that are currently being used, click on the "No to all" (or "skip all") button. This will not happen immediately after procedure starts.

In about 1/2 h (depends on your HD size), the process should be finished. This will give you up to 50% increase of drive's capacity. Good thing to do after that would be defragmenting the drive (rightclick on the drive/proprieties/"Tools" tab/"Defragment Now..." button).

71 °C would cause you slowdowns. Chips work slower when the temp goes up.

My VGA is set @ 115 °C to do an "emergency" slowdown, but it never gets beyond 50°C (GPU Fan = NV silencer ~$20 - $30).

And regarding that POST stall, good thing would be to disable full screen logo and quick POST in your BIOS, just to see on what stage this happens. My guess is that one of the IDE/SATA cables are making a bad contact, or one of the drives are starting to malfunction. But, it's just a guess. Could be anything.

Is the AC plugged in? Looks like faulty AC adapter.

I suggest that you borrow one that works to see if that's the problem.

Don't risk it. Let Apple worry about it.

Molex connector on the board is used when you have 2 VGAs in Sli mode.

I suggest that you try connecting VGA and CPU only (no memory, drives..) to see if you get any POST.

Make sure your VGA is in top slot.

It would make things more clear if you post BIOS settings regarding CPU and memory.

You can try CPUZ. It is a handy little program that gives you a lot of info on your CPU, memory....

Might shed some light.

It is windows protection that wouldn't allow you to use copy of windows on different machine. You must install YOUR copy of windows on that machine. (Try "repair windows" from the Windows Setup CD)

If it says that CPU is Athlon 1100MHz, you should check BIOS settings. At present they are:
CPU frequency = 200 MHz
Multiplier = 5.5

Multiplier should be 11. This can happen if you increased CPU frequency and left the multiplier on "auto".

If the "CPU overclocking" setting (general one) is other than "auto", set it on "auto" and things will return to normal. If it IS set on "auto", you might have either corrupt BIOS (fixed with flashing) or slightly damaged CPU.

You can clean the heatsink (remove the dust that deposited over time).

Also you can check if the heatsink is seated properly. It has to be tight on the CPU. Any slack would result in heat not being spread to the heatsink, therefore CPU isn't getting cooled.

If you have thermal paste, best action would be to take off the heatsink (it's real simple - no screws), clean it from the dust and remove the old thermal paste from heatsink and from CPU, and apply thin layer of new thermal paste.

At the present state, it is not advised to you that you use the PC before it is taken care of.

I use "lol", "ppl" and "pls" as acronyms. Also, it is a way to reduce typing time and keyboard wear-and-tear. At least with me.

Sometimes, writing full-size words make sentences difficult to read/understand.

Only important thing here is that we are understood correctly. Grammar is 2nd priority. (if any)

Kind of, instant second opinion.

I couldn't agree with you more. No offense, but people who are too lazy to use punctuation and capitalization shouldn't post so much. Or there should be some sort of rule that when you hit x number of posts, your posts need to contain a certain level of formatting.

Have you ever seen a mod being lazy when they post? I never have (although there probably have been some incidents).

Still, congratulations on becoming "Practically a posting shark".

I agree 90%.

10% is reserved for ppl who's english is poor. (their 2nd or 3rd language)

I've been around the globe and, with english being world language, I've talked to countless ppl. Ppl I talk to sometimes speak "pigeon english", and if I start talking (what would British refer to as) "oxford english" or "school english" (for the USA ppl), I wouldn't be understood. At all.
I would HAVE to talk "pigeon english" too they would understand what I am saying.

Okay, people. Here's the info from when I took a look into the BIOS:

SYSTEM TEMP: 26°C/78°F
CPU TEMP: 87°C/188°F
CPU FAN SPEED: 3835 RPM
SYSTEM FAN SPEED: 0 RPM

Does that shed any light at all?

Thanks.

Whoooa! CPU is COOKING!!

Immediately clear the heatsink, or check if it is seated properly.

It should be in the neighborhood of 40 °C.

Hi All Experi. Guys,

I have a problem with Inspiron 6000(Motherboard is DAL30) Laptop
.It stuck on First screen in POST.

I remove All peripherals one by one but no luck.
now i removed complete Motherboard from chasis and contect it do directly to monitor(CRT monitor) not pluged any device (just motherboard and power switch,battery and monitor).Problem same no luck Again.

It seem to be something wrong with motherboard but no idea because not have POST diagnose card for Laptops Yet..

I there are Experience Guru's can help me to and give a hint to diagnose the problem?

I have tried heat sink compound on Heatsink of microprocessor but this is not working.

No error messeges are diplayed. and i can not enter in Cmos too.
:sad:

I am a experinced repairer of Pc motherboard.So any help from experinced user is understandable to me..

Thanks Alot for any help.:confused:

Dell says that you need to press F2 key to enter BIOS.

I'll give you some general procedures to help you narrow down the cause. I don't know layout for Dell's BIOS, so some things may not be in your BIOS:

- Disable full screen logo. That way you'll see some details of POST procedure, instead of "DELL".

- disable quick POST. More test will be run.

- set "halt on" all errors.

- Clear CMOS command. That can help sometimes.

(quick observation: You have eliminated memory and peripherals. That leaves integrated …

I say you have software issue. (adware-spyware-trojan-virus related)
Download hijackthis and post the log here.

When you say "misreads the CPU" do you mean BIOS or windows?

I'm not sure, but running 3200+ at 2200 looks like OCing (my case 3700+ @ 2200). Running 3200+ at 2200 with restarts looks like OCing with core voltage too low.

With AMD fan, you're lucky your CPU isn't toasted.

A tip: ~$30 fo new (serious) CPU fan and you'll have 2 healthy PCs in couple of months.

Thanks for letting me know that Miss Dani's bday is on Nov 11, was waiting for somone to clear the mist on when exactly the bday was D:

That's what she says. (public profile)

Happy _________. (fill in the holiday/event)

Happy new year!

Why not? If everybody thinks that today is November 11., then why not January 1.? (11. 11. or 1. 1.... minor difference)

I had similar experience with PCI video card on my old machine (ATI Rage IIc). The problem is that PCI card that is bandwidth-hungry (VGA or SATA controller) tends to lock the PCI bus while it is working to get that 0.001% better performance. That causes all other PCI based equipment (sound card included) to "pause" for that split-second.
Only remedy suggested was to find and change the setting for that "exclusive PCI" something-mode, or to upgrade (in my case VGA) firmware and/or drivers that would enable you to change that setting.

(this goes if your drive is NTFS format)
Looks like you don't have permission to delete the files that you didn't create on your system. You will have to unchecked "use simple file sharing" (in the folder options/view).
Now set permissions (full control) on that drive's root folder for either Administrator group, or your account. (Rightclick the drive/properties/security tab) Also check the "replace permission entries on child objects...." check box (all that before/ "advanced" button). Also, you might want to take over the ownership of the directories/files. Click on the "owner" tab, select either administrators or your account, check the "Replace owner on subcontainers and objects" and click "apply".

That should straighten out that security-ownership confusion made by formatting and transferring files on the different machine.

As I said this only works on NTFS. Just in case you forgot to mention that the second time you formatted it on NTFS.

Filename "corruption" can occur every now and then. If the filename contains one or more "illegal" characters, file would become unaccessible, and therefore you wouldn't be able to open it nor delete it. You would be able only to see that the file exists. That can easily happen when taking your HD to different OS type and saving files there.

For the data corruption, it can be number of things. From chipset drivers to 3rd party software (defragmenters, AV, you name it).

From the hardware point of view, it can be damaged SATA …

Hi I recently purchased a Seagate Mometus 5400.2 120GB 2.5 HDD.
Am using a Vizo Paragon 2.5 External Enclosure.
I am uble to get my desktop to recognise the data on it.
Do you think it could be a driver problem or something else.

Cheers
Casa:rolleyes:

And the problem is...?

I'm not sure about CPU step. As far as I know Intel vs. AMD, it's a step back that you took. But, that would be if we were talking about single-core CPUs. Dual core..... Haven't had a chance to test them my self, but for gaming purposes, AMD eats Intel for breakfast. Doesn't matter if it has less MHz, or less L2 cache, it is the architecture. AMD is 2 years ahead of Intel, and cheaper too. (So I hear from ppl that had experiance with it)

I guess you changed a mobo too?

One thing more. This rig that you have is gamer's rig now, but next few years, it will be average... few years more, it will be 3rd world PC.
My point is, if you are not a big gamer, and you want something that will stick around for, say 5 years... this would be the minimum.
And Sli ready mobo wouldn't hurt either. For the future purposes.

Omnicorp....as from "Neuromancer"?

Not necessarily. There is NTFS reader for Windows 95, 98, Me (here). It's a freeware. I haven't tried it, but it should work fine. I suggest that you do extensive tests with it (defragmenting, saving encrypted/compressed rar archives and so) before you use it on a every-day basis.

One more thing. XP/2k are difficult to get rid of, so, I say you give it a proper thought before installing.
Good thing would be using this tool. It is free MS-DOS-based tool that will record your MBR (Master Boot Record). That MBR gets changed when you install NT/2k/XP on your system, making your bootable partition look for ntldr.com, boot.ini, ntdetect.com and other NT/2k/XP related boot files.
So, make bootable floppy, copy MBRTool there together with a pre-XP copy of your MBR and io.sys, msdos.sys and all ME boot files. That way you can get rid of XP painlessly. (together with partition it was on). There won't be any need to format-install the ME.

That can be related to the EMM386.EXE /highscan (in the config.sys).
By default, windows setup removes /highscan switch. Check if the /highscan switch reappeared in your config.sys.
Apparently windows don't like DOS memory controllers. On my machine with Windows 98, I have removed autoexec.bat and config.sys. They are not needed unless you plan to run MS-DOS based programs (games) that need those files, but that can be done in PIF shortcuts.

Product key is printed on the cover of the manual. (98SE)

Once, I got response: "please install our lates driver 91.47" and they gave me link to 91.33 beta.