Posts by Catweazle

Boot from Windows XP CD. Delete partition before continuing with the install. Create new ones. Continue installing Windows. The XP installation routine contains the necessary utilities and capability.

If performance tests and review articles to date are anything to go by, the Athlon64 X2 processor based system would definitely be your best choice for the purposes you've mentioned, if you can handle the extra expense entailed. Performance in games is a tad down, but if you only plan on playing Sims2 that wouldn't matter. A64 X2 is a better performing platform for the multimedia work than even the Intel dual core line. An A64 X2 will walk all over any single core Pentium, and will outperform a dual core Pentium of the equivalent performance rating.

Good luck with getting your stuff backed up then.

Not to mention all the other nations involved in those various events. That list, presented as it is, is the height of arrogance and a blinkered view of history.

National pride is wonderful, the US has long been a staunch advocate and supporter of democracy, but you really should get 'history' right rather than misrepresenting it.

Boot into Safe mode. Run the spyware programs from there to remove stubborn intruders. From within Safe mode, uninstall any crappy downloaded programs. If "the missus" is like many other "the missuses" (sorry for the stereotype there people - I was referring to an androgynous 'the missus') then there's bound to be heaps of stuff from silly downloaded 'Bejeweled' type games to fiddly silly desktop assistants and goodness knows what else has seemed like fun at the time. It's all rubbish and it all mucks the system up!

When the scans have been run and the rubbish software removed from the system, pop the Windows 98 CD in the drive and from within Safe mode if necessary run 'Setup' to refresh the Windows installation.

On the Nvidia website, when you're choosing the driver select 'Driver archive'. For an MX420 card use no later than a 4x.xx driver ;)

Hiya. That 'unavailable' bit in display properties has me intrigued. Are the options 'greyed out'? If so, visit our Viruses, spyware and Nasties section and get some help with cleaning up your system, because that sounds like the after effects of a nasty intruder which has fiddled with system settings. Get your system clean then do a refresh install of Windows. The device drivers should load OK after that. If not, you might be facing a format/fresh install.

The RAM is simply incompatible for working together. In theory your setup should work, but in practice when you mix and match different brands and types it often doesn't ;)

Best thing to do if you need 1Gb of RAM - sell both sticks as secondhand items and buy a pair of matched modules instead ;)

Here's the deal - Unless there's something else you're not telling us you don't, actually, know what needs to be done. Viruses don't trash hard drives. They only trash thw Windows installation and make hard drives not boot up!

Pull the hard drive out of that machine, fit it as a second drive in another working machine that has a CD burner (if the important data is only a few Gigabytes or less) or a DVD burner (if there's a large amount of data). Copy the data to CD or DVD as needed.

Then bung the drive back in the original machine, format it and fresh install Windows etc, then copy your data back. Job's done! ;)

Only reason you need to go to Las Vegas is if that's the closest place where there's another working machine!

The error message about the modem driver will almost certainly be a Windows installation issue rather than a BIOS issue. Even if your modem is an internal one, it will be an add-in card, not an onboard feature. BIOS will only be handling the PCI bus communication between modem card and the rest of the system ;)

If you go to http://imageshack.us/ you'll be able to register a free account, upload images from your hard drive for web storage there, and generate ready formatted forum code to paste into your post and have a linked thumbnail image like the one above. (If you hadn't noticed, that small image is a link to the full size version of it.)

As well as disconnecting the floppy in BIOS, disconnect the floppy data cable and also the power cable connector from the rear of the drive.

You might be 'disabling' it but the power and signals being detected are telling BIOS it's there. Disconnecting those cable will actually 'remove' the drive, and if it's a failing drive causing the POST problem you need to remove it. Try that and see if it helps. Disconnect the relevent cables (with the power turned off of course) reset CMOS by removing the CMOS battery for a few minutes and then refitting it, and then start up. Faulty drives DO cause startup problems ;)

If that doesn't help, then I'm afraid your a BIOS update wouldn't fix a 'dying chipset'. But you'll notice that one of the available BIOS updates corrects some drive detection issues. The final version 1.8 update will contain ALL fixes, so download that one. It will be a self-extracting zip file which when run will expand both the update data file and the installation tool. You'll need a working floppy drive, so does that floppy drive work when the system DOES boot up? If not then replace the drive.

Installation instructions should be contained in one of the motherboard manual downloads. You copy the files to a bootable floppy disk, boot from the floppy and run the update as instructed in the intructions for either the AWARD or AMI BIOS updating instructions …

Hey Dani! You never checked the image link I see. That's a cute li'l girl :) Nice one Janice!

Well hold on then. Remove all disks from drives (floppy AND Cd) and reboot. See if it starts.

That message can crop up if the system is set to boot first from floppy or CD, and you've left a disk in the drive which isn't a boot disk!

Janine, that's a topic hijack! Further questions are really supposed to go in their own topics. But for the benefit of belikemike I'll explain anyway.

Neither of those motherboards shows up as 'supported' in the motherboard support section of the MBM5 website, so that utility is not suitable to use with them. The ABit website support section shows that no suitable utility is included with the ABit board, and checking the Foxconn website indicates the same for that board.

In that event, you'd need to google to find out what temperature sensors were used on the board, and configure a program such as Speedfan to use them. Everest Home edition will help identify the sensors. Should you not be able to use a desktop real-time readout with the particular motherboards, Everest can be loaded whilst in Windows to check temperatures.

Another good utility is S2kControl, which is mainly used for keeping Athlon XP temperatures down on boards using VIA chipsets which don't enable 'bus disconnect' in BIOS. Even on motherboards which don't need that assistance, however, S2kControl can place temperature readouts in the Notification area.

I'd be suspecting that the drives got hot because they blew up! A faulty power supply unit can do that to your components, and when things blow up they tend to get somewhat hot. Hard drives don't generally suffer from overheating really. I've had fast drives in high powered systems, thought about adding fans to cool the drives and when I've checked their temperature they simply haven't got hot enough to warrant the effort.

One more thing to consider though. Are those drives mounted near a fan powered intake vent that you've cut with that angle grinder? Were the holes cut with the drives fitted? Is there any chance that metal dust is being suvcked into the drives, or perhaps dust sucked into them?

If that case isn't clean, and fine dust or metal powder is getting into the drives that'd explain them failing ;)

Hi dcc,

For any proper advice to be given, we need to know the make and model of the motherboard (or of the system if it's a big name one) We also need to know precisely what the problem is.

I'm moving this to the hardware section for you.

NEVER accept device driver updates from Microsoft Windows Update!

ALWAYS get device driver updates from manufacturer websites!

I would be replacing the power supply unit in your circumstance. I'd be too suspicious of it. I'd be inclined to replace the drive data cable as well.

I would suggest that you have a look at the label on the hard drive, determine what manufacturer made it, download the diagnostic software from their website and see if it reports any errors. The hard drive may be faulty and you need to find out if it is.

I's also suggest that you read the pinned topics in our 'Viruses, Spware and other Nasties' section and follow the advice included there in case you have a really sneaky unwanted intruder on your system.

The behaviour you are reporting is not normal behaviour, and while Diskeeper Lite may well run defrags better for you, in that circumstance you'd be covering up a problem rather than correcting it ;)

Disagree with the power requirements claim there. A 350 watt unit should be fine, if the power unit is of a suitable quality. Cheap generic units often deliver unstable voltage levels and insufficient ampage. Just because the sticker says '350W' or '450W' doesn't necessarily mean that the unit is a good one. A quality 300W or 350W unit will ALLWAYS be better than a cheap 'n' nasty 450W unit!

Have you tried using a different keyboard?

Sounds like either the keyboard is stuffed or the keyboard socket is stuffed. Has the keyboard ever been unplugged whilst the computer was running or whilst the computer was shut down but still had power running to the motherboard? It's unusual for it to happen, but it's quite possible for the PS/2 socket to 'blow' when the plug is disconnected whilst the motherboard os still powered.

Hello,

Just a bit of a peep here from someone from one of the OTHER countries who are involved in the debacle ;)

Fault Clinton, fault Bush, fault whoever you like. Simple fact is, those who complain about interventionist US foreign policy are backed up by the history of DECADES of actively interventionist US foreign policy. The 'fault' doesn't just lie with one or two presidents but instead with a nation's willingness to use military force to impose it's own outlook on others, regardless of the advice and support of even its allies.

History tells that tale quite clearly unless you view history through a fishbowl lens.

Don't worry, I'm not just 'US-bashing' here. I'm just as critical of the current administration of my own country, and of the preparedness of its people to readily adopt what is a downright arrogant and self-centred approach toward others from elsewhere. And don't get me wrong. I'm not speaking in support of the heinous and cruel administrations we see in places about the globe from time to time. I'd love to see the day come when the world can unite against such circumstances. The day when the world pulls together to say "No! An administration put in place by internal military action is not acceptable. Get your act together or we'll send in an Administrator to run things for you until you do!" I'm sure you won't want to hear it, but the current approach of the US, Great …

If motherboard and RAM are incompatible, then there's not much else to do, I'm afraid. Corsair have pretty good warranty. If they've claimed the RAM is suitable for a specific motherboard when in fact it's not, I'd contact them. I'd be expecting to have it exchanged for something suitable.

Nit sure about your local laws, but under Australian law that RAM would HAVE to be exchanged on the basis that is not suitable for the purpose it was sold for. Here, the vendor would be responsible.

Nope, I thought it was evident that it referred to asking for assistance with finding the spot for the question. It's been moved to the appropriate spot now, I'd answer your first two questions if I knew the answers to them, and you've just given me reason to add one to my postcount :D

I'm sure Dani or Zach will turn up some time soon with the information you need.

That sensor is supposed to go UNDERNEATH the processor. The wires feed in between the pins, the sensor gets taped to the underside of the processor directly beneath the cpu core, and you're supposed to use special thermal adhesive tape to stick it there, not double sided sticky tape! There was probably a little square of peel-off tape that came with the sensor, and you're supposed to cut off a tiny wee strip of it ;)

The heatsink underside and the processor top surface need to be thoroughly cleaned with a suitable solvent, and the two surfaces sealed with appropriate thermal paste or compound when the heatsink is fitted.

You blew it up because you didn't get a good seal between the heatsink and the heat spreader on top of the processor.

Sorry, missed a smilie there to indicate the comment was tongue-in-cheek. fixed now!

There are some software utilities which allow real time monitoring of system temperatures as I've described, but they depend on the motherboard make and model. A program called MBM5 was the best of them, but deveopment ceased about a year ago and motherboards released since then are not supported.

Speedfan is another utility. Some of the downloadable 'Widgets' would suit the task also.

Have you tried resetting CMOS and trying again?

I'ma smack you lot. You're not really helping a helluva lot! :D

belikemike, could you let us know the make and model of your motherboard please? There may be a suitable manufacturer program which lets you monitor it from within Windows. If not, there are some other tools which may be able to allow you to display temps on the desktop or in the system tray, so you can monitor them without needing to start a program and generate a report ;)

Then it is either motherboard, processor, power supply unit or a faulty RAM module. You can get a technician to test it or you can borrow suitable spare componnents from elsewhere for testing purposes. There's basically no other way to tell which is the problem.

Put it this way, if you have the basic components, they are compatible with each other and connected correctly, and it doesn't POST, then one of them is non-functional.

The 'bare essentials' should include Systray and Explorer. Nothing else. End-task anything else you see in there ;)

errmmm.........

You're being cruel to Windows by only having less than a Gig of free drive space to play in! I'd suggest you back some data up to CD, add another hard drive, do anything to free up space on that system drive ;)

Defrag away!

This sort of post puzzles me. If it's a recently purchased new Gateway system why isn't it going to Gateway for warranty attention?

If you're intent on doing it yourself, the troubleshooting procedures in the pinned topic at top of section still apply. Get it working in 'barebones' configuration first before adding back in any cards, drives etc.

If you've 'tried all that' and with only processor, display card and one RAM module fitted the system still does not power up you need to take it to a technician most likely.

Either you have a faulty component or you have the cables between case and montherboard incorrectly attached. A 'barebones system' will display an image on screen unless one of the main core components is non-functional.

The most likely cause is 'cheap and nasty' RAM modules. Windows XP is quite unforgiving of poor quality or mismatched RAM.

From www.pcguide.com

The screen image is distorted, with wavy lines or warbling of the displayed image

Explanation: There is a viewable image on the screen, but it is not stable, but rather somewhat distorted, moving slowly, warbling, or has wavy lines moving up or down the screen.

Diagnosis: This kind of problem is usually the result of interference from another device affecting the image. There are two possible sources of interference: first, another device could be emitting electromagnetic radiation that affects the viewed image; second, another device on the same electrical circuit could be creating interference on the power line that affects the monitor. If the image appears totally scrambled and unviewable, this is usually a different problem.

Recommendation:

• Examine the area around the monitor and remove any devices in the proximate area that could be interference sources. Common culprits are fans, motors, transformers and especially other monitors. Putting two monitors next to each other usually will cause each to interfere with the other.
• Try plugging the monitor into another power circuit to see if this causes the problem to go away. If it does, you may have line noise problems. Try isolating the monitor (and PC) to their own circuit or using a power protection device that includes line filtering or isolates devices.
• Try changing the physical location of the PC within the room. This will sometimes solve the problem by moving the CRT out of the way of some …

Windows version?
Internet provider?
What other software did you install when the connection was configured?
What sort of keyboard/mouse? Plug-in? USB? Wireless?
Have you tried uninstalling then reinstalling the mouse and keyboard as suggested?
Has the mouse and/or keyboard had software loaded to make extra buttons etc work? Have you tried uninstalling that software and running with generic Windows drivers?
Are you waiting long enough after booting to Windows to allow the system to become responsive?

Kintak, that's way off beam!

Please see the post I made a short while ago in Eku's original display card topic. It contains the correct and 'safe' way to change from onboard video to an add-in card.

Hi Eku,

I've posted a further response to your display card topic ;)

Your Windows problems I would suspect are the result of 'net nasty' intruders. A format/fresh install is quite possibly the best approach to take, and afterwards you should ensure that you regularly follow the advice you'll find in the 'Pinned' topics in out 'Viruses, Spyware and other Nasties' forum section.

Hey, wow!

Seems you've gone to great lengths unnecessarily, especially in relation to BIOS settings. Here's the steps which need to be taken:

* Uninstall the old card (or onboard graphics) entry from device manager. Do not reboot.
* Uninstall any related drivers from Add/Remove programs. Shut down and remove the power cord.
* Open the case and physically install the new card. Close the case and connect the monitor to the new card rather than the onboard video connector.
* Power up, go straight into BIOS Setup and change the 'shared memory' setting to Disabled or to the minimum available value, as the case may be. This step is ONLY to reclaim system RAM ;)
* Boot to Windows and cancel out of any Hardware detection dialogue.
* Install the display card drivers either from the installation CD or (preferably) from the latest driver downloaded from the NVidia website!

That's it. Anything else is really unnecessary! If you've done a whole heap more fiddling around and changing settings than that, reset CMOS, reboot and start again.

Sounds like a hardware problem. The pinned topic at top of page will explain how to strip it back to basics and identify where the problem lies. If it sounds too tachnical or 'hands on' for you, then take the system to a technician for attention.

Another problem for which it is relevent to point you at the pinned topic at top of page.

Troubleshooting a 'bare bones' configuration of your PC is the obvious procedure for isolating where the problem lies.

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314477/EN-US/

You should find full instructions in that Knowledge Base article.

Sounds like you would do well to check that all Windows updates are installed, and that any available updated drivers are downloaded and installed from the manufacturer website. In particular, ensure that all motherboard drivers are updated.

I'll move this to the relevent Windows section, by the way. It is not a 'dead machine', simply one with a Windows installation and configuration problem.

That simply means this:

1. Many people believe that the war was unjustified and should not have been fought. There were no WMDs, remember, and the war was only marginally "against terrorism".

2. Regardless of whether someone believes that the war was justified or not, the war has been waged and a country left in ruins as a result.

3. Now that it has happened, even those people who did not consider the US and its allies to be justified in wagaing war will agree that the US, its allies, and the rest of the World has a humanitarian obligation to remain there in a peace keeping and reconstruction role until such time as the country can again stand alone.

Commonsense would tell you so, but practically making the act of downloading illegal would be impossible to police. Far more practical to simply make the possesion of illicit goods illegal, and leave it at that ;)

Heya Sani.

I've moved this to the Lounge for you, as that seems the best place to get help!

You really need to run some 'Gremlin Scrub' over your PC monitor screen to get rid of those pesky '*'s' which are breeding and infesting the thing. If you can't find a shop that sells 'Gremlin Scrub, make up some yourself at home. Use 1 part grated pure soap, 1 part water and 1 part used battery acid and add a handful of metal filings just to give it a bit of body. Give the keyboard a scrub over as well, in case the pesky critters have spread there as well!

The best way to add that scooter to the desktop is by using a suitable 'kiddy sticker'. Browse the shop shelves at the supermarket to keep costs down, and make sure you open the cellophane packs and ensure the pack you get contains a scooter sticker. When you've found one you like, stick it straight on top of that silly cycle thing!

The JAVA problem is the easiest of all to fix. Drink tea instead!

Hope that all helps!

:D

The initial things you need to do are described in detail in this pinned topic:
http://www.daniweb.com/techtalkforums/thread27079.html

Please report back when you've tried the procedures mentioned.

I haven't opened the case yet to check individual components - not that I would really know what to do. The machine is still under warranty, I haven't contacted the seller company yet with details of the problem, would like to know more about it first if at all possible.

Please help!

That bit of your post should tell you EXACTLY what to do! Any advice given here other than 'send it back' would be, quite frankly, irresponsible!

Yes, it does sound like a power supply or other hardware failure. Discontinue using it and contact the vendor straight away.