Posts by techsheaven - Page 2

Check this out:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quite_Universal_Circuit_Simulator

Here is the download:

http://sourceforge.net/projects/qucs/

Good Luck

It may be helpful to compare/contrast it with another software development methodology. Agile Methodology is centered around organizing teams from veritable backgrounds together to complete a project. Other methodologies may be focused on ... [fill in the blank]

You said you already have the pros and cons laid out, so you just need some situations where you can decide what method you would use. You may also use several methodologies within the same project.

As small team of Java coders may be using one method to organize themselves, while another team may use a methodology that fits their paradigm. A business team may be sponsoring the project, for example, but they might use another methodology. When the two (and other teams) come together, they may govern their interaction with yet another methodology!!

I hope this helps.

Good Luck

Sorry, I assumed this was a laptop! This must be a Desktop.

Sure, I assume it is a non-standard fan?
Can the old one be removed?
What the model? Got pics?

I think this may help:

http://forums.blumentals.net/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=3259&start=0

It looks like it is a known issue.

Good Luck

It helps that you are dual booting. Does this happen under each OS?

Assuming the answer is yes, I would pull the video card and see if the problems persist with just the onboard video. If all is well, I would put the NVIDIA card back in, and disable the onboard video in the BIOS (usually under integrated peripherals). If you are unable to do so, I would disable it in the Device Manager. If that card supports dual monitors and works OK with the onboard video disabled, I would keep it that way, if not I would buy a dual video card.

Not all video adapters play well together! If you find that they work well separately, but not together, you could try updating both drivers, but I suspect you will still have issues.

Let us know what you find out!

Good Luck

When your system hibernates, it turns off the wireless network adapter. When it wakes, is turns it back on and requests a new IP address from the router. If I were you, I would disable sleep, hybrid sleep, and hibernation while the system is plugged in. Following, is a link to some instructions:

http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/disable-hybrid-sleep-mode/

Let us know how it works out.

Good Luck

Unplug all cables from the monitor (at the monitor) except for the power cord. Turn on the power and allow the self-test to proceed. Check for bent pins on both ends of the data cable. Reconnect the monitor cables and be sure to re-check that the thumb screws are tight. You should not see a self-test if the cables are connected, undamaged, and the video card is OK!

Follow the users manual and press the correct buttons, in the correct order the brighten the screen even though you can't see what you are doing. I think on that model, you just press and release the right arrow, then press and hold it to brighten the screen.. But again, this won't be available during the self-test because there is no signal. If it says "Cannot display this video mode," then the PC settings are wrong.

Let us know what you find out. Following is a link for the users manual:

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/monitors/E151FPB/En/controls.htm

Good Luck

We will need to get a bit more information. When it is in your PC, does it show up in disk management?

Right-click Computer, select Manage
In Computer Management, select the Disk Management snap-in.

Look to see if it is listed.

Let us know what you find out, and we will continue the Data Recovery process.

Sounds like you may have a virus/malware. Make sure you are logged in as a computer administrator, and try again. If that doesn't work, run anti-virus and anti-malware scans with up to date definitions on both. You can get two very good tools from cNet: Emsisoft Anti-malware Free edition, and Avast! Free edition.

If the scan find nothing, you should go to Start > Computer, right-click system drive and select Properties. On the Tools tab, under Error Checking, click the button that says "Check Now..." You will be prompted to schedule a scan on the next reboot since the system drive is in use. Reboot to let the tool check for errors.

After the system boots, check to see that the problem is solved. If not, follow the instructions in the following article:

http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-performance/how-to-reset-all-user-permissions-to-default/9da312d2-c99b-4283-a275-e74d93dcc366

That is a lot!!! Let us know if you still have problems, or if I have been unclear.

Good Luck

I may be a bit confused, but I hope I can help.

Microsoft recommends re-installing all programs before restoring files. If I understand you correctly, you did that, but you only re-installed the newest version of the program and have files associated with the old version. Right?

Most file association errors go away when you simply re-install the program. I wouldn't think that "Program Files" would be the best directory to store your files in though... Is that where the program stores them by default? If you're unsure, I would just put them in a folder on the root directory.

Let us know what you find out, so we can help you through it.

It looks like you hit the nail on the head, but to be sure, I would update your video driver.

I have seen this pattern before, so I'd bet you have a GPU that is surface-mounted, and may use silver solder. It is really common on systems that have one heat-pipe connecting the GPU and CPU heat-sinks. You can have this re-worked, but it would not be cheap.

I am not recommending you do this, but I fixed one before by heating the GPU. There are all kinds of videos on YouTube about it. I surrounded the GPU with Aluminum Tape - the kind used to seal furnace ducts (NOT Duck Tape) to create a heat shield. Then, I used a pencil-torch to heat the GPU (moving it constantly). If you try something like that, you should look at the right way (GPU re-work using a IR soldering station), look at all the crazy stuff people do on YouTube, and make an informed decision. I will say that if you are not prepared to buy a new motherboard, or have a new GPU put on, don't do it because it would be really easy to ruin the GPU. I decided to try it because I was looking at $100 for re-work, $120 for a new motherboard, or $0 to give it a shot.

Surface-mount GPUs have flat contacts, but so does the motherboard. The GPU is placed under a template that holds balls of solder on the …

Did your system recover when you attempted a reboot?
Does your system meet the minimum system requirements?
What were you editing in the the registry? Did you reverse he changes?

I would recommend connecting an external monitor. You may be able to apply settings to it that would not be supported by your notebook monitor.

Let me know what you find out.

Here is one way:

http://www.roseindia.net/jdbc/get-column-count-using-result-set.shtml

Good Luck

The prudent thing to do would be to look up each one individually. If I were you, I would disable conflicted drivers one at a time. Begin with the ones that have non-sense names. When you disable the one that is conflicting with your network adapter, it should work. You can determine which driver is conflicting by

-right-clicking it
-select properties
-activate the Resources tab

The best way to resolve the problem would be to begin by running some malware scans.

-remove or disable all Anti-malware and Anti-virus software currently installed.
-download and install Emsisoft Emergency Kit from Cnet (you may need to put it on a flash drive first since your network adapter does not work)
-During the initial scan, it will ask you to quarantine detected items; do that.

If those methods are unsuccessful, run combofix from BleepingComputer.com. Save this as a last resort because it it aggressive, and can cause legitimate programs to stop working. Sure, you could just reinstall them, but you may or may not have the disks

Then be sure to install an antivirus like AVG, AVAST!, or MS Security Essentials.
Keep us posted on your results.

Good Luck

DHCP is a server/router role. Your computer uses it to get an IP address. To disable this function for one PC, you would simply assign a static IP to that PC.

If you explain more about what you are trying to do, I would be wiling to help if I can.

Sounds like you have a device driver conflict; these are often caused by malware. This can be hard to troubleshoot, and may take some investigation.

First, we will go to the device manager:

-Hold the Windows Key and press R
-In the Run box type the following: mmc devmgmt.msc
-Press the ENTER key, or OK Button
-From the Device Manager's View menu, select Show Hidden Devices

Categories that are disabled or have a conflict will be marked with a red circle, or yellow exclamation mark... What are they?

debrajmukherjee,

Welcome to DaniWeb!

This is a old thread. It is always a good idea to read through old threads to see what others have done for simular problems. For whatever reason, the original poster did not return to close the thread or continue troubleshooting his problem.

It would be a good idea to start a new thread. Not only is it good etiquette, people will be more willing to help, and if Exaktor returns the two conversations will not become intertwined.

After you create a new thread, post the name (or link) here so I can find it.

See you soon,

Techsheaven

caperjack is right. . . I am to blame. New posters don't realize the protocol. It is like cutting in line, or interrupting a conversation. Even though the symptoms are similar, the problem may not be the same. A thread should be focused on one posters problem, and carried to its logical conclusion. That way, readers can follow the logic of the troubleshooting process. In this case the original poster seems to be missing in action, and should close the thread, or let us know what the status is... I apologize for not guiding the new poster to start a new thread. . . MY BAD!!

CU in other threads.

XP......> C:\Documents and Settings\<dewabo>\Favorites\Favorites Bar

What I want you to understand is that it should have moved the IE7 Links folder to the IE8 Favorites Bar folder. That folder is a sub-folder of the Favorites folder. If you don't see your links on the Favorites Bar (which contains the same links as Favorites\Favorites Bar) then they were not found during the upgrade.

I think you are asking if the Links as they were in IE7 are still archived somewhere. That, I do not know, but if it is, it would likely be in a compressed folder. You could back-up your current favorites, uninstall IE8, Export your favorites from IE7, re-install IE8, and import your favorites backups. I have never done that before, but if your old links are that important, it can't hurt to try.

Good Luck

I'm not sure of this, but I think it is not the favorites bar, which is a folder in favorites. If you want it to stay as a toolbar, you need to:

-open Internet Explorer
-from the View menu, point to Toolbars and click to select Favorites Bar.

If the Menu Bar is not there, press ALT key to reveal!

Good Luck

So, connected to the router, you set the alternate configuration to 192.168.1.2 (or something in the range we talked about), Subnet Mask to 255.255.255.0, the default gateway to 192.168.1.1 (or whatever your routers internal address is, and the General tab settings to obtain IP and DNS settings automatically. Right?

The other test you did was to connect to the LAN port on the modem (same settings), hard reset the router, and renewed the IP on the PC. Right?

Do you have Bonjour service installed? Sometimes it will set the DHCP to 0.0.0.0 (that's why I asked). If you run the ipconfig command, and it is not the internal address of your router, you can issue the following command:

route delete 0.0.0.0

(or whatever invalid DHCP server is listed). You should renew you IP again.

If all of that still fails, you could try combofix from:

http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/anti-virus/combofix

You will have to save it to a flash drive or other media, and copy it to your PC. Right-click it, and choose "Run As Administrator." DON'T interrupt it until it is done, or get it from another site. It often will seem as though it has stalled, when it is still running.

While you are transferring things via a flash drive, also get Emsisoft Anti-malware, Avast (free version) and Ccleaner from Cnet:

http://download.cnet.com/Emsisoft-Anti-Malware/3000-2239_4-10292236.html?tag=mncol;1
http://download.cnet.com/Avast-Free-Antivirus/3000-2239_4-10019223.html
http://download.cnet.com/ccleaner/?tag=mncol;1

…

When you renew your IP address, take note of the Default Gateway; it should be the internal address of you router (192.168.1.1?).

You can specify the Default Gateway by specifying it when you set a static alternate IP.

I realize that this is a long process, but we will get it resolved.

I have asked a lot of questions to clarify the issue in my own mind.

We know that you have not been able to contact the DHCP server on your router because you have an APIPA address. I assume that your router address is 192.168.1.1, and your DHCP pool starts at 192.168.1.100 and goes to 192.168.1.49. Your laptop is assigned to 101, and the router is set up to lease 50 IPs. you have not mentioned any other devices on the network, so I will assume there are none. You tried some static addresses inside the DHCP range. I normally assign static addresses outside the DHCP pool to avoid conflict (2-99), but you tried 2, 3, 4, and 5. Also, it would be a good idea (for this trouble) to set the static IP as the alternate address.

Have you tried connecting directly to the modem? This should give you a public IP address, and eliminate any issues with Network Address Translation (NAT), hardware firewall, and router IP lease times. If you have not tried this, and will, be sure to re-enable DHCP for TCP/IPv4, reboot the router, release and renew the IP address, and while you are in the elevated CMD prompt flush the DNS resolver cache with the following command:

ipconfig/flushdns

That would verify that the problem lies in Win 7 if it fails.

…

You are not reaching the DHCP on your router is it enabled?

What static address did you try?

Can you ping the router? From elevated CMD prompt type "ping" followed by a space, followed by your routers address. If you are close to the router, you should get 0% loss. also, ping 127.0.0.1 which should be 0% loss

Can you connect wirelessly in other locations?
Is your router broadcasting an SSID?
Did you set the network type (Public, Work, Home)?
Does your wireless adapter control the configuration, or windows?
Can you connect via wired connection?

Start by unplugging your modem and router, and shutting down your PC.

Plug in the router and wait for the lights to come on (about a minute)

Plug in your Router so it can get a public IP.

Boot up your PC.

If you still can't connect, run CMD as Administrator type the following:
ipconfig

Post the first number in the IP address for your LAN adapter (should be 192).

You may need to partition the hard drive if the BIOS will not recognize 30 GB.
Can you access the BIOS? If not, try unplugging the IDE cable to the drive you added to see if it will POST or allow you to access the BIOS. If you still can't access the BIOS, I would remove a card at a time to see if they are hanging the system. Also, look for things like the Floppy cable back wards (end-for end). Once you are in the BIOS, you should be able to determine if the hard drive is recognized.

If you can get the hardware up it should run FreeNAS OK.

When two devices fail to work properly, I look for IRQ conflicts. Hardware like Sound cards and Ethernet adapters have IRQs which allow them access to the processor. The most common cause for modern IRQ conflicts is malware the takes an IRQ for a device, leaving it unable to communicate with the processor. It then tries to get a new IRQ and cause an third device to malfunction.... It's like identity theft for devices!

You Windows firewall may be turned off by your anti-virus/malware software... Or malware... I would do the following:

Hold the Windows Key and press R
In the Run Dialog box, enter the following: msconfig
In the MS Configuration utility,
click the Startup tab Click the button to disable all,
click the Service tab check the box to hide Microsoft Services and click Disable All.
Click OK

Restart the computer after responding to prompt(s)

After reboot, hold the Windows key and press R
In the Run dialog box, type the following: devmgmt.msc
From the Device Manager View menu, click Show Hidden Devices
Note any devices with a yellow exclamation mark, and post them here.

Hold the Windows key and press R
Int he Run dialog box, type the following: inetcpl.cpl
In the Advanced tab, Click Reset...
Check the box to delete personal settings (this will not erase your Favorites)
Click Reset

Uninstall all anti-virus or anti-malware programs except one! …

It is hard to get a job WITH a degree, certifications, and experience.

Good Luck

You're probably barking up the wrong tree. The CPU (Central Processing Unit) is working if, as you say, you can hear sounds when the video goes out. The GPU (Graphics Processing Unit is what you should be looking at. It is part of the Graphics card. You could try something like the Accelero X2 to cool it better, or the ATI Tool (http://download.cnet.com/ATITool/3000-2094_4-10518322.html) to crank up the fan and monitor the heat. DON'T USE THE ATI TOOL TO OVER-CLOCK YOUR GPU!!! If you do, you will create more heat!!!

Good Luck

No problem! If it works for you, mark this thread as solved.

One step at a time! You will have a hard time getting to the bottom of any problem if you consider too many problems at once. I asked you some questions to clarify the problem; they were not random. Let me explain my thinking process so we can find you a solution.

Step 1: Understand The Problem Sure, we see the symptom of the problem ( a blank screen ), but the problem is the cause. So we look at the symptom, and say, "What must be true for the video adapter to be working?" We can eliminate power-management and screen savers because you hear your game (the system is not inactive). Now we are focused on the hardware (graphics card). The most common cause of failure is heat, and the symptom of an over-heated GPU is the symptom we see here! The more you work it, the hotter it gets, until it finally is beyond it's designed operating temperature. The problem involves more than just a graphics card. If the internal temperatures of your system case are not low enough, then the fan on the graphics card is blowing hot air on it. This may be enough when it is not being pushed, but start a game, the heat goes up, the air being blown on it is not cool enough, and POW -- lights out! There are lots of ways to solve heat issues. I want to help you find the best solution, thus all the questions.

I'll start with the easy one -- There is no security in unmanaged switches and hubs. I would use an auto-sensing switch because it "switches" full bandwidth (speed) of the network to each computer. A hub, on the other hand splits the bandwidth (big difference)!

If you are hosting a website, you need a static IP (not DHCP).

You may need a network bridge to combine two networks... Do you really have more than one?

I would recommend Network Attached Storage, or FreeNAS on a PC.

I'll help you through it, but let's start by understanding what you have there. Who do you use for an ISP? What equipment do you have? How is everything wired?

Gimp

http://download.cnet.com/The-GIMP/3000-2192_4-10773601.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGJWafY8sLI&feature=related

Good Luck

What is/are the operatng system(s)?

I would guess you are over-heating the GPU. Does it happen when it is just running a screen-saver? Does the fan run up to speed? Is the air from the power supply hot, warm, or cool? What happens if you leave the cover off the PC? Are there plenty of case fans - you should have at least one and they should blow into the case. The only fan that should blow out is the power supply (positive pressure configuration).

If something as simple as leaning the cover off makes the problem go away, add a case fan, or a slot fan.

Let's get it resolved - keep us posted.

Good Luck

Are you using a powered, or un-powered hub (does the hub have a power adapter)? An un-powered hub splits the amperage of one USB port among all the devices you plug into it. You may be under-powering the external hard drive. A powered hub will supply full amperage to your devices.

http://www.usb.org/developers/docs/usb_20_021411.zip

Did you resolve your issue? If you post the model of your cable modem, I will post links to any device(s) you need, explain everything you need to know.

A motherboard is the largest circuit board in the PC, to which all other boards & cards attach. Most modern motherboards have integrated video, sound, and LAN. The integrated video usually uses system resources, affecting performance. Adding a video card with it's own set of resources, can boost performance. The integrated video, and the add-in video must be compatible, or the integrated video should be disabled in the BIOS. Manufacturers often put a plastic cap over the integrated video connector when they do this.

If you have both integrated, and an add-in video, and you enabled the integrated video, you may have caused a conflict. Or, if they are both enabled, and are compatible, you may have plugged it into the wrong one.

All of this can be confusing and frustrating, so I have some rules to get it right. If you want to use multiple monitors on a machine, add in a card that supports all of them, and disable the integrated video. If you use one monitor with a an add-in adapter, disable the integrated video. The only time the integrated video should be enabled, is if it is the only one.

Now, in your situation, the plot thickens... A KVM is a device to connect two video adapters (in two PCs) to one monitor, keyboard, and mouse. [We never did determine if you had a KVM, or a video switch] So, for now, we will leave that disconnected to simplify things.

With that …

Let us know what you find out!

One of the modes should have worked! I'm beginning to think you may have disabled an integrated video in the BIOS setup... I have a few questions:

What menu were you in when the problem began?

Is your video integrated into the motherboard, or is it in an expansion slot?

Does your system have more than one graphics adapter?

Does the video share system memory?

Did you try VGA mode in the Advanced Options Menu?

Error detection and correction. This is different from the parity block (the actual data).

If the fan is making noise, it my not be moving the air it needs to.

For best air cooling, I would start with a silver-based heat-sink compound, a copper heat-sink, and a ball-bearing fan. It is hard to recommend any details beyond that. If it were me, I would just clean off the old compound and replace it (with silver-based), and if the fan can be replaced separately from the heat-sink, do that. You may also be able to tweak the fan speeds in the BIOS (and maybe under-clock).

With a hot room, you may be forced to "break the bank," and look at a liquid-cooling system.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5267687&csid=_25

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6101295&csid=_25

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100007

These are just examples... make sure they will work with your system & case!

Good Luck

It sounds like you set your resolution to size not supported by your monitor.

Disconnect the KVM switch (or just monitor switch?) and connect the video directly to the computer.

Tap the F8 key while windows boots to get the advanced boot options,
Select safe mode,
right-click the desktop and select properties,
On the Settings tab, slide the settings slider to the left-most position,
Click the Advanced tab and click the bullet to "Apply new settings without restart"
Click OK
Click OK
Restart the computer.

Now, choose better settings. If you choose a setting that is not compatible with your monitor, it will go blank, scrambled, blurry, or distorted. If this happens, just don't touch anything for 15 seconds, and it will revert back to low resolution.

If the settings look good, try the same settings on the other computer. once you find settings that work for both machines, hook the KVM/video switch back up, and you should be good to go!

Good Luck

The answer is yes! There is only one RAID configuration in which a single disk failure causes all data loss... striping without parity or mirroring (RAID 0).

It may be better to talk about the purpose for the RAID set. The only time I would employ RAID 0 is for something like a gaming computer where data loss is not a big deal, but performance is.

Sometimes refresh rates will be wrong on new Linux installations, but this is a non-stop flickering. It sounds like a device is hanging the system, I would begin by disconnecting peripherals except a standard keyboard. If the problem persists with this configuration, load setup defaults in the bios, and then disable caching and shadowing. Post your progress & questions here, and we will work through it.

Good Luck

We will need some more information. Has this configuration worked in the past, but suddenly stopped? Are you to boot from the array, or does it serve another purpose? When it does not boot, how for does it get -- Does it complete the POST? Do you hear system beep codes?

My first guess is that the computers have autologon enabled. You could check out this: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/947714

If that doesn't solve the problem, we will need some more information. Let us know either way...

Good Luck

Welcome to DaniWeb. I'll gladly help as much as I can. You were correct to search for a similar issue before starting a new thread. Please follow the step I gave Exaktor. If this does not help, Start a new thread so this one will not get off topic. There are many different reasons a display may not work. By starting a new thread, we can focus on your problem.

Good Luck

Use Windows Explorer instead. There are two ways to get there. If you have it bookmarked, you can use that link; it will give you a 404 Error (page not found), but just ignore that, and click Page -> Open ftp Site in Windows Explorer.

Alternately, you can click Computer, and type your ftp site in the address bar.

Either way, you will get a login error. From the Windows Explorer File menu, click Login As... Put in your credentials.

Good Luck

There is such a device, but I doubt you will get any better performance.

Here is what I would try:

Hold the windows key and press R

In the Run box type the following and press ENTER: msconfig

In the Microsoft Configuration Utility do the following:
-On the Startup tab, click Disable All.
-On the Services tab, check the box to hide Microsoft services, then click Disable All.
** Note that this process may disable components of your anti-virus program. If your video can be viewed offline, just don't connect. If it is online, you should determine which services and startup items belong to your anti-virus, and check then so they will not be disabled.
-Click OK

You will be prompted to restart. After the restart, try to play the video and let me know what the result is.

Good Luck