No, you set up gmail once. It is accessed through your web browser. Changes made on one mchine will be reflected on the other since nothing is stored on your computers.
Try this: While your system boots, tap F8 continuously, until you get a boot options menu. Select "Safe Mode" Start -> Run: msconfig hide all Microsoft services (on services tab) disable all (on services tab) click on the startup tab and disable all. close MS Configuration Utility Restart PC when the desktop comes back up, check the box in the dialog box and click OK Hopefully, you have control of your system now. Run a good anti-virus: http://www.microsoft.com/Security_Essentials/ Or whatever you prefer. Once the virus is removed, go back to msconfig and check the box beside "normal"
Post back here if you have any further issues., otherwise mark this thread as solved.
As I'm sure you know, win98 is no longer supported by Microsoft, so Windows Live Mail is not availale for it. You could set up a gmail account and forward your Windows Live Mail there. You would need them use gmail on both machines. http://www.bukisa.com/articles/116401_forward-windows-live-mail-to-gmail Good Luck
Get all critical updates from Windows Update. When no more are available, click on the custom button and look for drivers under the optiomal / hardware section. Your driver is very common; if there is a newer driver, it should be there.
Interesting. Does it spin up? If your CD/DVD ROM is SATA, you could try swaping their cables? If the CD still boots, I would focus your attention on the new drive. If not, the controller may be bad (onboard?)
Try this link for your driver: http://download.cnet.com/C-Media-AC97-Audio-Device/3000-2110_4-154785.html Click the "Download Now" button and save it to your desktop. Right-click the icon and select "Extract All..." Use the default settings to extract the files to a new folder (on the desktop). Go back to the device manager. Right-click the driver and select "Update Driver." In the Hardware Update Wizard, click to select the Have Disk option, then click the Browse button. Navigate to the extracted version of the driver folder.
Post back here is you have any issues, otherwise, don't forget to mark this thread as solved.
Click Start -> Run, Type regedit, click OK. Expand HKEY_CURRENT_USER | Control Panel. Click to highlight International iTime and iTLZero should be both be set to 0 sTimeFormat should be h:mm:ss tt s1159 should be AM s2359 should be PM
Now expand International and highlight Geo HKEY_CURRENT_USER | Control Panel | International | Geo Nation should be set to 244
Is that what you see?
If all is ok there, search for "Batangas" From Edit ->Find...
If you find a key, post the hive path and key here.
I'm not sure why the scheduled scan did not run. If you want to run it, try this: Start -> Run, type cmd, click OK. In the command window type "chkdsk /f" (without the quotes). The command window will reply that the disk is in use and will ask if you want to run the scan on restart. type "y" (without the quotes), type "exit" (without the quotes), restart your machine. There is some logic to checking the disk since your drivers are stored there. Also, when the RAM is full, it moves low-priority tasks to a paging file on the hard disk.
Updating from the drivers properties (using the automatic option) will only check Windows Update. Since your Ethernet Controller is not working, that won't do anything. You will need to find the driver for the Ethernet controller or download it from the manufacturers website, or install it from a CD. (These devices are under Other Devices because windows does not understand what they are. Once the correct driver is applied, they will be moved to the appropriate category.) After the Ethernet Controller is up and running, you should have internet access to download the other missing drivers.
You should search your BIOS settings, or the documentation. Expand every setting that has to do with hard drives and controllers. I would expect that you would find it under something like Hard Disk Controllers and the choices to be SATA, IDE, Both. But BIOS GUIs are all a bit different.
Do I understand that the PSU fan is turning? Sometimes certain voltages will fail without others. Most PSU fans run at 12v. You could plug in a usb device (one with lights) to check the 5v.
Another idea is to clean out the dust. Be sure to avoid electro-static discharge.
To check the RAM, you have already removed some of the RAM, now pull the other stick(s) and some that you pulled the first time.
I would say, "you need to go to d-links website and download the latest driver," but your product has been discontinued so they may not have a newer driver.
Fantastic! Usually, I would run CHKDSK just to be thorough, but I am convinced you have a bad driver. This may or may not be associated with hardware. Go to the device manager and, under the view menu, show hidden devices. Are there any yellow exclaimation marks, of red X's? If so, update those. If not, I would like you to post some log files from the event viewer. Filter for stop errors. Here are some references what you will do and why you will do it.
What was the problem before the BIOS update? Remember the warning that said not to turn off the system durring the update? I know you didn't have a choice about it, but the BIOS update should not be interupted. What it doen't tell you is that you should not attempt a BIOS update if you suspect bad RAM either. Sometimes there is a way to reset to the BIOS, but I have never had to try.
I suspect you are getting a "Checksum" error or keyboard error and can't see it. Can you see the POST messages normally? If you send more information about your motherboard, I could try to find specific information, but usually there is a button to press which will ignor the error (F1?) and continue.
If it is a Checksum error, you would power down the machine, open the cover and find the CMOS battery (it probably is about the size of a quarter). Replace it with a new one. I am focused on this idea because you said it ran fine until it was off for a while. Although a dead CMOS battery would usually cause one, or a few beeps rather than a continuous beep. Is this one long tone, or pulsing beeps?
The first thing I would do is unplug everything except the monitor, and a different keyboard and mouse. Try booting and see if anything changes. Is there a pattern to the beeping (like two beeps, pause three beeps, etc.)?
When troubleshooting, it is important to do one step at a time. Jumping between task will leave a lot of questions unanswered. We are looking at the hardware because it is the first step, but I don't expect this to be where we find the problem. I will expect to find the problem in device drivers. IRQL has to do with processor access priority levels. We need to check the hardware first for several reasons. Your processor and RAM must be working correctly or errors will lead us down the wrong path. It's like the game where something is whispered from person to person -- it only takes one communication error and the wrong message will arrive to the final destination.
Somewhere along the line the priority level of IRQs assigned to your device drivers got messed up, or the hardware is not passing info correctly. If I understand your original post, you get Stop Errors (Blue Screen) sometimes without a IRQL error -- that makes me raise an eyebrow. . . You need to run the hardware checks. Use someone elses computer to download and burn the ISO (disk Image) because the you can not depend on the hardware in question yet.
Is this a new problem on a system that has been running? What were the circumstances when it quit working? Is the "netdriver card" Ethernet adapter?
No lights implies no connection or bad card. Assuming this is an Ethernet adapter, check the pins and make sure they look undamaged and each pin is in its own slot (they should not be touching).
I've had luck with changing cd drives. All lasers are not equal.
You could try a Disk Dr. It basically hones your disk surface. I have had success with Magic Eraser (am I aloud to mention brad names?). Anyway, if you try honing the surface by hand, rub from the hub (center) it the edge rather than around the disk.
You should not need to install any software. I have a few questions for you. How did the Winows 98 PC connect to the internet in the past? Do you have the ethernet cables connected? What happens when you open the web browser (Internet Explorer)?
Bob_180_Bob seems to be leaning toward what I'm thinking. You deleted the "Active Partition." The partition you thought was empty, was probably your restore partition and the files hidden. If Bob's suggestion doesn't work, use fdisk or diskpart to set the restore partition as the active partition and reboot. It should start the restore process.
Probably an easier solution would be to delete all partitions, then the XP disk would "see" the Hard Drive as a new drive and start the install process. The down-side would be if there is something wrong with the XP Disk, you will be in a worse situation.
Since you are unable to boot with the disk, you may want to go to support.microsoft.com and search for instructions on Windows PE disk which has Diskpart. If you have a floppy drive, it would be easier to search the web for a win98 boot disk image; this has fdisk.
There's a few things I look for in security software: It should recognize and stop threats without the user knowing it even happened. Comodo, for example, makes a great security suite but by default, it constantly asks the user to decide what action to take -- is slows productivity and blocks important features.
Microsoft's program stays in the background and even gets updates through Automatic Updates -- huge advantage because it is one less Stay Resident process running. Who knows better how to protect Windows?
I recommended Microsoft Security Essentials because it seems to be quick at responding to threats and bdmallalieu seems to have some malware running since his CPU is overwhelmed. . . and AVG isn't finding anything.
I had a bit of trouble following your post, but what I took away was this (correct me if I am wrong):
Laptop Slow booting and running. Blue Screen Stop errors. Computer restarts while defragmenting. Deleted drivers in Device Manager. Problems running Windows update. Automatic Updates on, but unable to install an update. CPU usage high. Memtest86.v3.5.ISO Zip file has been extracted to an uncompressed folder, but doesn't burn correctly. Your laptop does not boot to CD.
First, let's step back a bit and look at the physical condition of the laptop. are vents free from obstructions: dust or your lap? You should always place a laptop on a hard, flat, surface to prevent the vents from being blocked. Fans pull dust into your laptop and should be cleaned out from time to time. If your laptop cannot cool itself, it will overheat and stop or shut down.
With that out of the way, start your machine. Hold down the windows key and press r. In the run dialog box, type MSCONFIG and press Enter. In the System Configuration Utility, select the Services tab and check the "Hide all Microsoft Services" box. Click the "Disable All" button. Click the Startup tab and click the "Disable All" button. Click the "OK" button and follow the prompts leading you to restart.
When your computer starts, you will have a very stable machine, but some things may not work. Check …
You are talking about a personal decision. If it were me, I would back up your files and remove old files & programs.
If you do re-size your partitions, I would say to leave a partition that is 1.6 times to size of the max RAM your system will accept. Put as much RAM in the machine as it will accept. Set your Paging file to a custom size with a max and min value of 1.5 times the physical RAM and store the paging file in the new partition. You may be happy with the performance boost.
Did you resolve this issue? I was going to suggest that Bio matter may be causing issues with your RAM, but it is unlikely that anything could get into a hard drive.
Do you have the most recient BIOS update? Since the issue occurs with various types of USB devices and the CPU is P4, the problem would most likely lie with the PC configuration. I would recommed visiting the manufacturers website and installing the newest BIOS version for your mainboard. While you are there, see if there are any motherboard recource drivers available (newer than the ones you are running). Next, visit windows update and make sure windows is up-to-date (return after each session untill it says there are no more updates).
Autoplay is a somewhat seperate issue. When media is recognized to have an autoplay file, and autoplay is enabled on your system, User Accerss Control should ask if you and to run the file it points to. But lets see how things go after you have all of your updates.
Use express install of windows updates, because custom mode may offer you generic device drivers to replace the manufacturers drivers.
Are you putting the USB device in the same port each time? Some devices will install once for each port you plug it in to. Also, are you properly stopping the device before removing it?
I gave up trying to run the lexmark package. I just plugged in the printer, let windows discover it, selected "have disk" in the wizard, and pointed to the downloaded driver folder.
I would uninstall all antivirus/malware/adware programs (if only to resolve the issue) and install comodo Internet Security Suite. It will offer an alternate DNS server. It also shows the status of ports.
Under Vista, I try to install a Lexmark x2600, but am prompted to click OK to uninstall old software. It had been working before, but suddenly stopped. The owner says she uninstalled the printer and all software, which I verified. I also deleted any lexmark folders, registry keys,and services (why they were still there.. who knows). The spooler has no lexmark dependencies... STILL, every time I run the driver/software installer, it prompts me to allow old software to be removed and restart! I disabled McAfee thinking that it may be blocking the system changes... no luck. I looked through the Lexmark website, but could not find anything like it. They offer no lexmark removal tools that I could find...
There have been several versions of malware going around that can cause this. Malwarebytes takes care of most of them. Some alter the hosts file at windows\system32\drivers\etc. Right-click, select open, from the list of programs select notepad. If there are a lot of IP addresses followed by websites, this may be your problem. Just delete the entries, or rename the file.
