Is your XP a update from a earlier version of windows? The Easy CD Creator 4 is know to create problems with updated versions of XP. Read this.
What exactly was the error message, and what registry fix did you apply?
If you are using a dialup connection I can appreciate that it took you a while to download that 4.87GB copy of easy CD, but you might want to unistall it to see if that is your problem, or at least one of them depending on what you deleted from the registry.
Did your DVD drive come with driver or are you depending on the XP drivers? Have you gone on line to see if there is an update for that DVD's drivers for XP?
When you installed the DVD did your computer recognize it as found new hardware?
What motherboard are you using, and what was you installed RAM, and what RAM did you add? Have you tried uninstalling the new RAM and hdd to see if the speed returns to normal? If it does try installing on item at a time to see what is causing your problem.
Cold boot aren't hard on it, the only real issue there is that thermal cycles help break down component. But this is happening so slowly that it's really a non issue for most. I know people who keep their desktop computers on all the time, they enable the hibernation and leave it. There are differences between standby and hibernation, you can google "standby vs hibernation" for comparisons. As I said, I prefer hibernation.
As I suggested previously alternate you use of the two power sources to keep you battery healthy.
Nichol Cadmium batteries are the one that you would want to allow to run down before you recharged them.
Laptops use Lithium-ion batteries, here's part of an article that explains the best recharging practices.
A lithium-ion battery provides 300-500 discharge/charge cycles. The battery prefers a partial rather than a full discharge. Frequent full discharges should be avoided when possible. Instead, charge the battery more often or use a larger battery. There is no concern of memory when applying unscheduled charges.
You should not run the computer continuously off AC, the battery needs to be used to keep it healthy. Your owners manual should have instructions regarding this.
As for power management, if you are concerned about power conservation then I would suggest hibernation.
I was mistaken here, I thought that a disk had to have a autorun.ini file in order to auto start. I wasn't aware that you could set the autorun feature to open all disks.
YIt will have yellow, red and black wires, and from it you should measure +12[yellow], +5[red] to the black[ground]. Got those? Then at the power connector(s) to the mb [leave it plugged in] look for +3.3[orange], +5, -5[white], +12, -12[blue]. A couple of other wires [green, purple, grey etc are sensing lines..ignore them] Voltages should be within a few percent. eg 3.1 to 3.4 for the 3.3....
Those voltages should be at least their rated voltages. Typically they will run a couple hundredths over.
When you turn on the computer do your CPU and case fans run, the PSU fan run? Do you hear the hdd spin up? Is the LED on the optical drive lighting up, and can you open the tray?
It would help if you could provide the make and model of either the computer or the motherboard.
go to mycomputer,right click on the drive icon and go properties/autoplay and set what program you want to use to open each cd type ,like wmp to play music disk and so on,
Have you tried uninstalling the drive, cycling the computer on and off, and reinstalling the drive? Are you using the driver from XP or did your drive come with a CD with its own drivers?
Do you have another computer that you could try the drive in?
If your computer is still under warranty see if they will replace it.
Try blowing out the insides with a can of air, if you blow through the fans try to place a something through them to keep the fans from spinning. This will protect the bearings of the fans and make it easier to blow through the blades.
There are several programs that will give you temperatures and fan speeds, Everest Home Edition will provide you with most any information that you could want.
The CPU fan we can take for granted that it will be monitored, but unless the case fan is connected to the motherboard by a three wire plug you will not be able to monitor its speed. Any fans that are connected by a molex connector will not be monitored either.
There are other programs out there, and I'm sure that there are members here who will attest to their favorites, but the accuracy of any of these is questionable. The method of sensing uses resistance and voltage to determine what is happening, all you need is a small voltage variance and the spec will be off. For temperatures, if it ain't shutting down...it ain't too hot.
I'm beginning to make some sense out of this. The BIOS limits the size of the hdd that it will recognize, but there are several ways to get around this. One way is to update the BIOS, another is to add a BIOS expansion card. The next two are the ones that I have been looking at, obliquely mind you.:lol: Those are the LBA-48 which I have mentioned previously, and the other is a Software Translation Driver (Dynamic Drive Overlay). I wasn't aware of what it was at the time, but this is what I used with the Maxblast4 software to partition my 200GB hdd prior to slipstreaming W2k pro and sp4.
Thanks Caperjack, I'm just trying to understand this. On the one had I'm being told that the BIOS is the controlling factor for the 137GB limit, and then I read something like what I've attached below and realize that I'm a lost ball in high weeds.
Service Pack 1 (SP1) for Windows XP was released on September 9, 2002. Its most notable new features were USB 2.0 support and a Set Program Access and Defaults utility. For the first time, users could control the default application for activities such as web browsing and instant messaging, as well as hide access to some of Microsoft's bundled programs. This utility was later brought into the older Windows 2000 operating system with its Service Pack 3. Service Pack 1a was later released to remove Microsoft's Java virtual machine as a result of a lawsuit with Sun Microsystems.
LBA-48, which allowed the OS to view and use HDD space above 137 GB, was enabled by default. Native support for Serial ATA was added.
yes i understand, and use slipstreaming ,but i don't understand you gig limit ,my understanding of size limit harddrives is its with your computers the Bios,and not with windows ,therefor having sp4 in with win2000 shouldn't make any difference with the size limit , and yes if your bios has a size limit of 137 gig ,then use maxblast to make 2 or more partitions less than 137 gigs each and format them , before you install win2000 ,this way you computers bios will see 2 different drives ,both less than the 137 gig limit
The 137GB limit is imposed by the BIOS, but for some reason with W2k the sp3 or sp4 will enable you to see hdds larger than the limit, the same is true with XP and sp2. I'm trying to find this out even as I write this.
As to my original question, it looks like the largest partition size offered while installing W2k is 131GB.
XP will only recognize 137GB without the sp2, this mean that it will only recognize the 137GB of that 200GB hdd. That's not your problem.
If your OS is on the hdd in the lap top why not partition the external hdd with maxblast, set the jumper of the external hdd to slave and use it as a slave drive.
Slipstream shouldn't have any affect on the what win2000 shows as the size of the drive ,if you have a bios limit of 137gig then I think that all you will see .try the hdd manufactor for a utility to setup the drive first ,if it a maxtor for instance look for maxblast software on there site
The purpose of slipstreaming is so that is does have an effect on what W2k shows for the hdd size, the sp4 will allow it to recognize hdds over 137GB. The slipstream combines the W2k and sp4 onto a CD for the purpose of one installation of the two.
The hdd in question is a 200GB Maxtor, and the Maxblaster CD does have a section for partitioning. Are you suggesting that I partition the drive prior to installing the operating system?
Thank you for the response caperjack, The beauty of the slipstreaming is that the service pack will be seen in the same installation as the OS, and with W2k and sp4 installed toghether it will allow me to see drives larger than 137GB. My question is when I'm installing the OS, when the installation gets to the partitioning part will it show a unpartitioned size larger than 137GB, and if not does it mater what is entered if I'm slipstreaming the OS and sp4?
Try unplugging the computer from the wall and let it sit for a couple of minutes and see if it will reset. Is this light on you PSU? If so, what make and model is it.
When you say that you pull it out and push it back in do you turn on the computer after it's out, turn off the computer and push it back in and then restart your computer? If not, try doing that and see if the drive is recognized as new hardware.
Your IDE cable should be a 40 pin connector. The UJDA720 is a Panasonic which is a DVD-ROM/CD-RW.
Hi all, I'm going to install a 200GB hdd that I've wiped and is ready to go. I have made a disk using Autostreamer slipstreaming W2k pro and sp4. My question is in regards to the partitioning section of the installation of the OS, I know from previous experience that the section will open with a screen with the words "Unpartitioned Space" with the amount shown on the right. With the 137GB limit, will my 200GB of unpartitioned space show or only the 137GB? If it doesn't and I proceed with the amount shown will the slipstream enable me to see the whole 200GB when it's finished?
You can wipe your drive and reinstall you OS without causing it any problems, it is a physical device which means that it will eventually break down, but not due to this type of use.
This topic should be posted in the Viruses, Spyware and other Nasties forum. The winlogin.exe is a worm that winds up in the registry and needs to be removed from there. The following information comes from another web site.
Double click SDFix.exe and choose Install to extract it to its own folder on the Desktop. Please then reboot your computer in Safe Mode by doing the following :
* Restart your computer * After hearing your computer beep once during startup, but before the Windows icon appears, tap the F8 key continually; * Instead of Windows loading as normal, the Advanced Options Menu should appear; * Select the first option, to run Windows in Safe Mode, then press Enter. * Choose your usual account.
* Open the extracted SDFix folder and double click RunThis.bat to start the script. * Type Y to begin the cleanup process. * It will remove any Trojan Services or Registry Entries found then prompt you to press any key to Reboot. * Press any Key and it will restart the PC. * When the PC restarts the Fixtool will run again and complete the removal …
The green LED on most computers means that the system is on, a yellow/amber LED usually means that it is in sleep mode. Try unplugging the power cord from the wall receptacle for a minute and plug it back in and see if it resets. If that doesn't work try clearing the CMOS.
i have an asus a7v400 - MX board ,2600 XP athlon , 512mb ram , 64 mb nvidia video card .. the problem is that the comp is not starting .. it shows the green light (power ) on the motherboard ... but when i press the power button the processor fan moves a very little bit and then stops ... smps fan also is not working at this stage ..... i would like to tell took the hard disk out and then put it back after 20 days and i m getting this problem ... please help
I would check your connections between the hdd and motherboard, and check the PSU connections. If it's not a bad connection I would check the voltage with a multi meter to see if the PSU is working properly.
I have 2 DELL PCs OPTIPLEX 270 and had problems with the motherboards.
It was fine the last time i used it, but suddenly, when i checked, the motherboard alco were burnt (small burnt bubble), what could be the cause? Should i have the motherboard fix or should i buy new PC? 1 of them only showed up until the windows logo and it turned black / hang. So i have to keep restarting it again and again. But once it went through to desktop, it was fine.
but the other PC, it went through to the desktop fast, but when i tried to open files after files, it hanged and have to restart again.
What could cause this problem? I need help pls.
The burnt section would have been caused by a short.
I don't recognize what you are refferring to as alco, please explain this.
Are there any bad capictors on the motherboard, they will look bloated compared to a good one, it may also look like it has leaked at its base.
Which computer has the "bubble", the 1 of them, or but the other?
Try clearing the CMOS. There should be a jumper on the motherboard close to the battery, move it so that it covers the middle tine and the one that was open, leave this for about ten seconds and reset the jumper to its original position. You can also do this by unplugging the computer from the wall receptacle, removing the battery on the motherboard for a couple of minutes, replace it and plug the computer back in.
The first thing I would do is to open the case and see if I could determine where the burnt component is. If it's the PSU you should be able to smell it through the fan's vent on the rear. You could use a volt meter to see if there is any output from the PSU's 12V rail by reading it from one of the molex connectors, yellow is 12V+ and black is negative.
The smell of burn electronics usually is serious, if it isn't the PSU look at the motherboard for arc marks and any discoloration. Also look for bad electrolytic capacitors, they will look bloated by comparison to the others, they can open and leak or even explode...more like a pop. Check for burn marks or breaks in the traces.
Another possibility is that this is a heat issue with the CPU, if for some reason the HSF has failed the CPU could over heat fast enough to produce the same kind of results. The BIOS has a set temperature the it reads from a thermistor at the CPU, and when it exceeds this temperature it should shut down you computer.
I also have another problem. I would like to get a new video card for my computer and I am not sure how to decide what to get. I think I need to know the power on my power supply to determine what kind I should get so can you guys help me in this dilema.
Thanks.
The PSU that came with that could be an issue as it's only 250W. The good news is it looks like your PSU is ATX, this means you're not going to have to purchase Dells PSUs.
Its is an assembled PC. The motherboard as i said is an Intel D865GBF. And the OS is Windows XP professional edition with SP2. I have 8 partitions on my HDD.2 of them are 40GB and 2 are 30GB. All the fans are working fine. I have also cleaned the inside of the computer and removed the dust on the heatsink. But i find that the system temperature in the BIOS is showing around 128 deg celcius.Is it an abnormal figure??
PC usually gets restarted wen i am browsing over the net. Over past few days, i have been putting the system idle all night jus to test if it would restart, and to my surprise, it got restarted every time although there werent any applications running. And DVD burning is taking too much time and most of the times the burning isnt successful.I feel that becoz of the HDD getting detected in the PIO mode. I used the memory test at www.memtest86.com. I have run around 25 passes and there wasnt any error. Please lemme know if any other information is required. Thanks a lot.
But i find that the system temperature in the BIOS is showing around 128 deg celcius.Is it an abnormal figure??
Not if you're using it to cook you dinner.:eek: Have you checked to see if there is a new version of BIOS available for that motherboard, from what I've read it look lik a …
I never could understand why the manufacturers never suggest clearing the CMOS after installing a new motherboard as standard procedure, you wind up having to do it most of the time anyway.
If you knew how to use a multi-meter and knew what to look for you wouldn't be posting this, and because you don't I would be doing you a disservice instructing you to open the case and start playing around with line voltages.
If the unit has as many hours as you imply it may not be worth investing anymore time or money, a qualified tech is going to cost you anywhere from $60. per hour and up. If this is a business you should be able to write off the purchase of a new machine on your taxes.
You still haven't told us what make and model your computer is, or what the motherboard is. It would also help to know what your OS is. How are you using the SATA hdd on a system that uses an IDE cable?
PIO mode is normal, you would use the DMA only in applications like reading or burning a DVD where it will allow you to bypass the CPU.
Your RAM being SDRAM means your computer is old enough that it's possible that you are using FAT files on you hdd, with a hdd as large as 160GB could be a problem if the partitions are larger than 32GB.
Another thing to look at is the PSU, it can cause your system to restart if it's over taxed or the voltages of the different rails isn't as rated. Like the 12V rail only producing 11.5V.
It could be heat related, are your fans working properly? Case fan, PCU fan, PSU fan. If you haven't cleaned the inside of the computer you might want to do that, blow off the boards, heatsink and fan assembly.
What sort of programs are you running when you say that you're running multiple programs. Is there any specific combination that you know will cause it to restart?
Have you tried the obvious, remove what you have installed to see if the system works without the additions? If it does, add one component at a time till you find your problem. If it doesn't work, start checking for loose connections.
Have you tried installing it as a slave on the same IDE cable with your hdd with your OS system on it?
Most any current hdds should last longer that a year unless they have be subjected to some form of trama, not just internal hdds but externals as well. I had a guy who had nocked his external hdd off the table and couldn't understand why that should effect it.
You can reset the BIOS by using the jumper on the motherboard, or you can unplug the AC power cord and removing the battery on the motherboard for fifteen minutes or so. This being winter remember to touch the case of you computer to discharge any static electricity before you touch any of the components inside. ESDs kill chips.
It would help if you provide us with some information about your rig. What make and model, how much RAM do you have, how large is you hdd, what kind of free space do you have on it?
... and be sure you keep the heatsink and the fan in the power supply blown out with a difluoroethane gas such as Dust Off or equivalent. Do not use compressed air or a vacuum cleaner.
Are you aware that difluoroethane gas is flammable, it can also cause asphyxiation in a confined area.:eek:
Btw...Dust Off is compressed air, and a vacuum can be safely used for cleaning electronics. :cheesy:
Hello there, I actually disconnected all the drives and put them back in again with proper setting...but still nothing.
Thanks for your help.
I'm afraid I may have caused some confusion here, I some how managed to post this information in the wrong thread. This information was in answer to a problem of a optical drive not being seen.:o
This information came from a friend from another site. It's clearer than the explanation I was going for. Hope it helps, and thank you Karlsweldt.
It can be done, if the mobo has separate VRs for each socket. But the FSB cannot be changed between each CPU separately. They both run at the same speed. A faster CPU would throttle back to the set speed, but a slower CPU would stumble all over itself at higher speeds. But more depends on the "match". The cache levels have to be identical, as well as the type of architecture. Mixing different breeds of CPU will result in a no-go setup. Examples: MMX/non-MMX, SX/DX types, Prescott/Northwood, Athlon/Duron. Even with the older Socket 7 types, mixing the VIA/AMD/Intel CPUs of similar ratings would result in failure. Same with the Socket 370 types. The best setup would be the matched-pair type. Equate a dual-CPU setup to a two-horse carriage. The two horses must be of equal nature, or you go only where one wants to!
If you have just put this machine together check to be sure that you IDE cabel is installed properly, the two connectors at one end go to the drives, the other goes to the motherboard. If this is reversed it will cause this problem.
