Posts by dcc

I can appreciate not wanting to be hassled by PMs, and I do realize that there are proper forums for most any topic. I recently saw a new member post her email address and tried to bring this to someones attention as this might not have been a well thought out decision. I posted a suggestion that a moderator might want to do this person a favor and remove it and suggest that they submit it in their profile, I didn't get any response, so I tried PMing the two moderators that were shown to be involved in this forum only to be told that they don't accept PMs. How would like to wake up and find a couple hundred emails trying to sell you anything from vinyl siding to sex toys because you had a brain fart and posted your email address?

For those of you who are not aware there is a last ditch technique that can be used to try to extract information from a failing hdd, this involves putting the hdd in a plastic bag and placing it in the freezer for about thirty minutes. This contracts the disks allowing them to spin, usually for a very short period of time. The link that I've provided below will show how not to do this, enjoy.

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1028112728

Did the system restore solve the problem? Would you please post the exact error messages.

Did you try the system restore? If you haven't and are going to be sure that you go back to a date that preceeds your porblems.

Try doing a system restore prior to the date that you installed IE7. I've been reading about all kinds of problems associated with M$'s new browser, it seem that M$ has yet again dumped one of their programs on the unsuspecting public to debug it for them.

This is another reason that I will not go back to IE, I don't have any problems with Firefox.

Just curious here, do any of the moderators here accept PMs? I tried to PM two only to find that they don't accept PMs.

This intel article explains it, along with a dictionary in you hand.

Have you tried last good configuration?

If you have a comunity college close by look into taking a class for windows XP, this will teach you the basics of using the OS and provide you with a vocabulary which will allow you to ask specific questions once you start looking on line.

As an alternative I did a quick google for windows tutorials and found several, I might suggest that you try that as well. Here is one that I thought might help.

You can't discount the printer being the problem just because it's a Lexsparks, and drivers go south occasionally as well.

Have you tried replacing the drivers?

Ludington eh? I spent two summers in Pentwater just up the road in the late sixties.

Here is an article that explains it, but in a nut shell overclocking pushes the component to its limits to obtain better performance. This will void your warranty and often results in shortening the life span or killing the component. Before you try this make sure you know what you are doing.

Without even referencing the two specific motherboards I'll immediately say go with the Asus, MSI still hasn't gotten it together.

Unfortunately, European and Asian wall outlets utilize 220 volt output, opposed to the American 110.

If you're--if you plan on using this computer again--buying a power supply, I can't tell you how unpredictable some models can be. I've had trouble with the things that come in the cases I buy. However, the incredible reliability of Antec brand PSU's prove very powerful, very stable, and depending on the wattage and stress on a quiet PSU system, potentially expensive.

dcc placed the process of replacing the power supply and hooking up your old hard drive to another machine in words very well. It's really as simple as it seems, just a matter of checking the jumper configuration firsthand: In the case of my Seagate drive, the possible configurations are displayed on the drive's top. If not, typically, master drives (used to boot the system) should have a configuration like this... [vertically placed jumper], [pin column], [pin column], [pin column], or []::: in visual terms. Slave drives, which is going to yours, would have no jumper on it... ::::

Sorry about any repeated information from the prior post, just trying to provide as much info as I can. : )

First off, the line voltages outside of the U.S. is typically 230V to 240V AC not 220V, 220V is the potential between line 1 and line 2 in a single phase installations in the U.S..

There shouldn't be confusion, much less problems replacing the PSU as long as he purchases one of …

If the DVDs are encrytped you won't be able to copy them from one machine to another. You will have to decrypt the file first and then burn a copy, once you have that disk you should be able to go from one machine to another.

Glad to hear that you have solved your problem, I hope you don't have any further trouble from ie7. I participate at three other sites and have been reading about a large amount of problems related to ie7.

I made an error, be back in a few minutes.

For some reason I wasn't allowed to edit the last post.

According to this you can use a hdd larger that the 60GB, and use the 7200 RPM.

I made an error, be back in a few minutes.

I built a PC for a friend about 6 months ago, K8NE motherboard, AMD 3400+ processor. It ran smoothly until he moved apartments. Lately, He's been getting a continuous low buzz from the system, sometimes on startup, othertimes while in the middle of running a program. Aside from being annoying, it hasn't seemed to have any effect on the way the system runs. I found that his heatsink cooling fan was working only intermittently, and after replacing it, it seems that the Motherboard CPU mini-plug doesn't seem to be powering properly. Is this the source of the beep? Does it indicate a bigger problem? Lastly, is there a way to disable the tone?

What does the manual say about the error beeps? Are you talking about the square four pin connector from the PSU or the three pin connector of the fan?

The beeps are an error code, if you tell us what make and model your computer is we can find out what the error code is and go from the to sort out your porblem.

Replacing the PSU is very simple, unplug it from the wall receptacle, open the case and remove the four screws that hold the PSU. You should be able to pull it out to the side and install the new one in its place. Just start unplugging the connections and replace them with that same type connectors from the new PSU. Make sure that the voltage is set properly, plug it in and fire it up.

Please tell us what make and model your computer is, some computers manufacturers are proprietorial and use none ATX PSUs, the PSU can be of different dimensions, and the pin configuration on the motherboard connector can be different from that of a ATX connector.

As for transferring files from one hdd to another, first off, there is a possibility of damaging your hdd with static electricity, you can avoid this by discharging yourself by touching the metal of the case, be sure that the computer is turned off. There are a couple of ways to go about this, I prefer to copy the files onto a CD or DVD, this will not only provide you with a means of transferring the files, but will leave you with back up files in case you ever need the again. Another way would be to install the old hdd into the new machine as a slave and transfer the files from the slave to the master, here is an article explaining how to do …

This is a long shot, but since you haven't used this in about a year and the computer doesn't recognize this, try going back to the last good configuration.

There is a lot to be said for wiping the drive and doing a reinstall, and it's not that much of a problem if you have everything organized. Then you get to enjoy that quickness that only a new install provides. I would only suggest that you wipe the drive rather than a low level format, this will overwrite your problems.

Save your money that you would spend on all the necessities to accomplish this and add a DSL account to you home. The name Rube Goldberg keeps coming to mind when I think of all the steps you would have to go through to enable this.

Dyspeptic chook or not he's right, IE7 is causing more problems than it's worth, try googling problem with ie7 and see what comes up. Once again M$ has release yet another of their fine products for the public to debug.

This one of several reasons that I use Firefox.

Have you tried running your scan in the safe mode? Have you tried running scans with anything other than McAfee, like Spybot search and destroy, adaware, or asquared?

Here's a article that may shed some light on the error.

The work around that I found was to partition the hdd first with the utility that came with it, in my case I have a Maxtor which came with the Maxblast 4 software. After the hdd is partitioned I used a slipstreamed CD of W2k and SP4. Just choose to use the partitioned space.

A couple of things to try, defrag the hdd, download AVG, Spybot S&D, Adaware, and see if you have any infections. How much free space do you have on the hdd?

I would also help if you include the specs for this computer, make, model, amount of RAM...

Is this a desk top or a lap top computer.

If it is a desk top there is a switch on the PSU to go from 230v to 110v, you want the PSU in the 110v position in the US. Switch it and see if it survived.

Congrats on the fix, care to share what you changed so that other readers with similar problems can benefit from this. And happy new year to you as well.

Hi Susan, Posting your email address on a public forum like this is inviting the world to send you every possible type of spam. Hopefully a moderator will see this and delete it for your protection.

I'm still trying to find drivers for that motherboard, this one is a challenge.

I'm not sure that I understood your question, are you inquiring about accessing your work computer from home via a dial up connection, or the DSL connection? Or are you trying to find out how to install DSL on your home computer?

It could be you anit virus or firewall. What are you using?

Have you run any scans for nasties?

The optical drive is now the most failure prone of any component in a computer. If you have a year or more of use, it is probably dead, or if you have six months of heavy use it could be.

Try this, which works for a lot of users:
http://ai,ja/prg/req3.htm Restore missing CD Drive, and read this over. It may save your unit.

Did you post the wrong link, I don't see how that site is going to help this situation. I'm not sure I would care to see what else you have bookmarked.:eek:

If it's in a PCI slot it ain't you CPU. Most likely it is a video card, what did the SIW list under video for you card?

Static electricity is always a concern, especially in the winter, so make sure that you discharge yourself to the metal of your case before handling the RAM.
Take out your RAM and put one at a time in, see if the puter starts, remove it and try the next one and so on. If one of those modules is bad it will show itself. Have you tried putting the third module in the slot where the fourth slot to see if you some how damage that slot?

I'm not familiar with that Acronis disk manager, and I couldn't access the user's guide form their home page...Adobe wouldn't load...so I can't help you with that. Acronis has a good reputation, I'm surprised that you are having trouble using it, maybe someone here will be able to help with the instructions.

If you have the XP disk with the product code it might be quicker to just wipe the drive and reinstall the OS.

Have you run any virus scans?

You will need a broadband modem and a ethernet network card. Who ever provides you the DSL service may also provide you with a modem, but you will have to provide your own network card.

You can read a how to article here.

This is why I have stayed with AVG.

This will show you everything about your card. Go down to hardware and click on video.

There is a freeware program called SIW (System Information for Windows) that you can download here. If you go down to the hardware section there is a subsection for memory which will show you the total memory, and then breaks down to the individual modules.

This will display the following.
Device Locator (slot 1 or2)
Capacity
Memory Type
Speed
Data Width
Form Factor
Total Width

Some times components will be omited for what ever reason with autoinsertion machines and can get past inspection. I would return it or RMA it if it was purchased on line and get another.

I did a quick look at Crucial and PC2700 is the only RAM that they suggest. You're not going to find "faster" PC2700, but you can install more RAM and make your computer faster. You have two slot with a maximum of 1024MB in each.

It could be a problem with your PSU.

Do you have you OS installed on the other partition or are you without a OS on it now? If not I would wipe the drive, repartition is and reinstall the OS on a partition by itself.

The advantage of having you OS on a separate partition is that you can reinstall the OS without wiping the drive and losing all of your files on the other partition.

That's too bad, I was hoping it was IE7, the easy soution there was to uninstall it and go back to IE6 which worked, most of the time.:eek:

Have you scaned for nasties?

Have you installed anything recently?

One of the solutions that is suggested is to uninstall it and reinstall it. Personaly, if I were to uninstall it I would install Firefox.

Hi dude7707 and welcome to Dani web.

M$'s IE7 is turning out to be a royal pain, I googled that error and found a surprisingly high number of people with the same problem. About the only solutions that I saw was to incorporate 2003 Office, or to just uninstall it and go back to IE6. How adding 2003 makes this work isn't mentioned, I found a couple of references to it though.
If you wish to go back to the IE6 here are instructions to do this.

I have been using Firefox for two years now, and this is just another reason that I will continue to use it. M$ has a tendency to release their new software and let the public debug it for them. Thank you M$.

What BIOS is you computer using, and what model is your viao?

When you look in the BIOS does it show you hdd in the boot order?

Are the hdd settings in the BIOS set to autodetect?

When you start your computer can you hear the hdd spin up?