Ah. Your BIOS has a different entry.. it should show on the first POST screen. F2, F10, F11, F12.. i don't know your BIOS/mb.
Ah. Your BIOS has a different entry.. it should show on the first POST screen. F2, F10, F11, F12.. i don't know your BIOS/mb.
Mmm.. sounds like a couple of keys in registry are not set correctly, like the one that starts explorer. But a Windows Repair should have reinstated those....
Go Safe Mode, log in as the Administrator, and run hijackthis. Post the log.
May I ask what the software was that you thought you were downloading? And from where?
The external keyboard and monitor will run fine on default Windows drivers, I doubt if all the touchpad functions will... once Setup is complete you can load chipset and other device drivers as per normal.
I see a cellar.. hazy light... wires, cables, bits of equipment balanced on books and propped against desk legs; a brother sagging into his bonds to the exposed plumbing. Please tell me you're wearing one of those old peaked eye-shades, and are using a Fresnel magnifier on the screen. A6000... is that the model with the crt monitor?
:)
How do you mean, the pc won't read it?
Does it actually try to boot from it? [Lessee, at startup immediately tap F8 [?] key to gain access to the one-time boot menu, choose your cd drive. You should get a black window with a msg about detecting cd drive with a timer countdown, then to tap any key....?]
If you do all that, then does your sys not actually successfully load from the cd?
Aside... you will not damage your work sys by testing the cd in that... Setup will not actually do anything without your permission; you can simply close it like any other task.
And if it does not run in that sys, then, yep, dl an iso. I know those two are good.
That drive detection timer countdown - the starting time is selectable in BIOS, and I have seen cases where it is too short and so does not allow the cd to spin up and be detected [read]. 30 secs is not too long to set as a detection time.
Hello, mdp... it looks like there might be a little bit of hdd corruption there. Do you have an XP installation cd? You need to start the Recovery Console [load the cd, and choose Repair with RC]. Inside RC at the prompt you would enter:
chkdsk /p
And then try to start your sys again.
If no cd then you may download an RC iso from here: http://www.webtree.ca/windowsxp/tools/bootdiscs/xp_rec_con.zip
or here: http://www.thecomputerparamedic.com/files/rc.iso
Burn the iso...!!
Nice win, tundra.
"I have the ability to use the HDD from the older laptop as a thumb drive via a 3.5" USB interface I have, and I have the windows XP disk."
Beauty! Here are the instructions: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/307545
Note WELL that warning about OEM installations! They mean it! So don't do this if you have an OEM machine.
Otherwise... use your XP disk to start the Recovery Console, and then just do the steps for the Config\SYSTEM file, ignore the other files.
Aw, Terry, I'd help if I had a clue... but i don't have anything original. I guess you have checked the infamous filters in registry .. all I can offer is that you try to kill any non-Windows process that could be using that burner [a start is Task Manager]; sometimes you must use something like Unlocker. Check also using a start-up tracker like the one in Hijackthis [Misc Tools section] to see what program that uses the burner is starting its drivers unbidden.
A Problem... look, you are going to have to get a Recovery Console of some sort. Cannot you borrow an XP cd?
No? Then perhaps you can download one of these and burn it to a cd [unzip if necessary, then burn the .iso, don't open it!]:
http://www.webtree.ca/windowsxp/tools/bootdiscs/xp_rec_con.zip
http://www.thecomputerparamedic.com/files/rc.iso
Use the cd to boot your sys into the RC. I think then you could try again to uninstall SP3... its uninstall files may exist still. It is possible that one or more of the replacement files did not copy correctly.
Anyway, in the RC, enter these commands:
cd %systemroot%\$NtServicePackUninstall$\spuninst
batch spuninst.txt
Lashana, the problem is likely caused by malware; a good solution generally is to run MBAM. Malwarebytes AntiMalware.
Ryan... I feel the need to apologise for my previous post - I was highly irritated by something else entirely... work... and was merely being brief, but now it just looks so rude. And it very likely is a faulty drive, but I'd like to rule out MFT corruption of some form. Anyway, it's fun trying to fix stuff; absorbing. And if my bits don't break, I have to try things out on guinea pigs wherever I can find them.
:)
" Can you boot recovery console and run chkdsk /f". Read back. And the f parameter is not valid in RC.
C: = 80 MB?? GB?? XP would not fit on 80MB.... I'll go with 80 GB. The same method applies... just do the actions for both partitions. End object is to get XP back onto the partition where it originally was, with all data there. I haven't included those steps yet.
Well , somewhat... it does imply the problem is not with your mb's chipset. If you wish to retain your data on that drive you must be careful to not do anything which will destroy the Master File Table... ie no formatting, quick or otherwise. Your MBR is damaged [no partition table there] but that is not a problem [it can be regenerated]; however when Windows Setup sees that "unpartitioned space 476938 MB" it will insist on doing a format, so don't run Setup [different to trying to enter the RC, which did not work]. Setup [to install an OS] would require a primary partition and would demand a format prior to creating that partition. So..
There are a few pathways to doing this, and this is possibly the most straightforward. Let's hope it is fruitful. I am going to assume that you only have one partition on that hdd, C: ?
We need a bootable disk repair tool ; this one will do the job: http://www.partitionwizard.com/download.html -you want the bootable cd from the bottom of that table. Burn the .iso to a cd.
-boot from it [press F8 to get the boot selection menu in BIOS], defaults should be fine.
-in the rhs window select your hdd; with only one in your sys you would highlight "Disk 1" [not the unallocated space listed beneath].
-in Operations on the lhs press Rebuild MBR if it is available [not greyed out]; press Apply [in …
Ctrl-Shift-Esc should always give you TM. Ctrl-Alt-Del may, depending upon your settings for login.
Well, that is something. Try plugging your hard disk drive into another Sata port, just to knock out interface chip errors. And ensure that the cable connection to the drive itself is well seated.
Sitting in a box for many years..... Moisture. First reach in and unpug/replug a couple of times anything that even looks like it may be plugged... RAM, drives, CPU [yep, even though the pins should be gold plated...], any cables [both ends]. Then leave the thing switched on for a day or two, or five... interfere with it now and then to get the hdd spinning up. Generated heat may remove the effects of moisture after a bit.
A rundown CMOS battery: it will only lose the date and time, anything else is not important at this stage.
"So I turned system restore off, rebooted, then turned it on again. ".. that action would have removed all your restore points.
Notwithstanding the advice from Pitti... Pay for drivers?.... no, they are always free in my experience. What you might have to pay for is the use of some system/driver analyser software's driver downloads. Don't do that, either. Device Doctor is free, their driver downloads are free. But with even the other Pay to Download the Driver programs you can always identify the drivers that could be updated and then gurgle or go directly to the manuf. site and find the driver.
Galaxy means nought to me, nor does M618. I guess i should have told you that you would have to pull the LHS case cover off to actually check on th physical video card. It is possible that it is a RAM problem, and because that is quick and easy to check I would have done that before splurging on a replacement hdd [3 months old? they should throw you a new one... true...].
Try Memtest86+ from http://www.memtest.org/
-halfway down the page are downloads for bootable cd, USB flash drive or floppy versions. I use the floppy version when I can. Create, boot from it, run the test for an hour or two. A single error is a total failure of that stick.
Lemme know how you get on.
Hello, Petra.. not quite there... that ASUS A8N-SLI mb, is it the deluxe or premium version?
Your NVIDIA nForce4 is the chipset of that mb.... there is no onboard graphics, so there must be an add-on graphics card as well - what is it?
What Service Pack is your XP installation cd? It must be at least XP-SP2 to be able to install XP to a mb with PCI-Express, such as yours.
This error ... kernel_stack_inpage_error... indicates that when your sys tried to read back data from the hdd page file it failed, and that could mean either a hdd or RAM problem, related also to your PCI.SYS missing msg. I'd test RAM first. Two sticks? Pull one and try again. But you must have an SP2 or 3 disk.
Your MBR partition table may now be corrupt; if a Windows Repair works then your data will be accessible, but if a Repair won't run [and it will not if Setup cannot find your OS] then we would have to try another method to repair the MBR so that you could get back your data.
Answer those questions...
Quick question or two... does your machine have a video card? and what is it? What is the model of your mb? What version of XP are you trying to load?
476938 MB is a 500GB hdd? Did it have, say, 10GB of free space left before the problems? A guess will do..
I imagine from that msg re unpartitioned space and no C: available that your MBR is now corrupt. But if as you enter setup you try instead to enter the Recovery Console: [Press Enter to start the Windows Setup, choose "To repair a Windows XP installation using the Recovery Console, press R"].. and if your OS is recognised, run..
chkdsk /r
If your OS is not recognised RC will not start.
Back to those questions..
" Here is what I got: orange - 6.7V, red - 10.5V, purple - 10.4V, yellow - 25.7V."
And you used Black as the ground [or low/negative connection point] for your meter? Please don't use that PSU... it is not regulating. I am surprised that your mb has survived... it says a lot for the mb's onboard regulators!! Get it tested, but repairs are usually not worthwhile when compared with the cost of a new one.
Don't continue using it to test it with HWMonitor!!
[Aside.. a lot of boards now use 24 pin connectors... it allows systems with equipped PSUs to source extra power from another PSU output, it is added on the mb to power from the other lines.]
It's 120vac, then.
but please, use that software I mentioned. It will give all we want, and more. Post a screenshot, or save the log and post the top bit of it, down to the line Thread Dumps [we don't need to see those], about 1/10 of way down a notepad.
Reason I mentioned changing port range if you can is because each type of internet protocol tends to use somewhat "standardised" port numbers during their info exchanges. ISPs know this, and throttle or block ranges that can overload their servers through volume. Like those used by torrents. You go outside that range and likely you won't get blocked.
Quiz your ISP.. some block torrents. I don't use torrents, but perhaps there is an option to change the port number or range in your software. Move it up to a number like 20,000 or more.
Security in OE is as good as that of your mail server and your AV service, and your security policy settings.
Inbox size? Just delete stuff. I don't know of any settings to do as you wish.
It would be unusual for a registry cleaner to reverse any user-selectable policy. But then they occasionally alter vital keys and blow the OS to the sky, so why not..?
And if the PSU passes those tests then you need to use some software which will give you the voltages the CPU is getting. You see, the mb has several power supplies devoted to the CPU, these can be software regulated... a good, quick and simple application is this one: HWMonitor from http://www.cpuid.com/softwares.html
Actually, if you got this, ran it and posted a screenshot of the result, that would do nicely. Save you measuring voltages [assuming your HP is compatible].
Yeah... assuming that your sys runs long enough to use this app, I'd prefer you to do this... just for safety's sake [yours and your mb's!!]. Install it to your desktop for easy access.
Re the line voltage...Er.. what country are you in? What is your domestic line voltage? Normally this would have been set correctly by the manufacturer or exporter of the PSU for the country where it is to be sold.
Go to this site: http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html
Near the middle of the article, just above the 3-line paragraph starting with this: "Some of the voltage lines on the connector may have smaller sense wires ..." you will see a two-section table of Pinouts referring to the mb plug ... Pins 1-10 and Pins 11-20.
Wire colours to the other plugs follow the same convention... eg on a power plug to a cdrom or hdd you will find red 5v, yellow 12v, 2xground black.
Don't worry about the levels on the grey and green wires. Measure carefully, don't slip the probes!... measure at the back of the mb plug. Probe tips will reach the contacts inside.
You must have the PSU connected as normal otherwise it will not regulate. The voltages in the table should be taken as minimums, but the reading3 should be no more than a few percent above... say 5% above.
You can only easily measure the voltages, and that is enough... don't worry about the currents. If the voltages are good then so are the currents. If you are not comfortable about it, grab a friend who is. Please.
And there are free tools that do the job, too.
Which will be just fine if he has XP Pro....
Yep, post a hijackthis log:
==download hijackthis: http://www.majorgeeks.com/download5554.html
-copy it to a new FOLDER placed either alongside your program files or on your desktop and then... rename hijackthis.exe to imabunny.exe
-in that folder start HijackThis by dclicking the .exe
-CLOSE ALL OTHER APPLICATIONS and any open windows including the explorer window containing HijackThis.
-click the Scan and Save a Logfile button. Post the log here.
"Windows cannot find 'logon.exe' "
Be glad of that - it is not a windows file. You did not present a hijackthis log, possibly the nag could be removed easily from that. So either do that, or this:
==Please download Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware
from: http://www.majorgeeks.com/Malwarebytes_Anti-Malware_d5756.html
or: http://www.besttechie.net/tools/mbam-setup.exe
=Dclick that file, mbam-setup.exe, to install the application,
-ensure that it is set to update and start, else start it via the icon, and UPDATE it.
Select "Perform QUICK Scan", then click Scan; the application will guide you through the remaining steps.
ENSURE that EVERYTHING found has a CHECKMARK against it, then click Remove Selected.
If malware has been found [and removed] MBAM will automatically produce a log for you when it completes... do not click the Save Logfile button.
Examine the log: if some files are listed as Delete on Reboot then restart your machine before continuing.
Copy and post that log [it is also saved under Logs tab in MBAM].
Viruses, trojans, worms and other malware have signature code, or invoke certain filenames, and have certain effects all of which allow them to be tracked and identified [by action, at least], and so can be blocked or eliminated. Pornography inter alia is just words, sounds, images, as disparate as can be. And with torrent sites it is you who, perhaps unconsciously, is inviting it in. It is a thoroughly different thing if it downloads as a result of a malware - that can be fixed, usually easily. But when you initiate it only a site blocker can help. Not all pornography comes with a badge proclaiming it to be. Masquerading is the game of the day... you may not mean to get it, but once you are tricked into it you may be further tempted.
There are plenty of content filters out there [net nannies], many are free. M$ has one. And there is a site blocker built into [and working in] the XP you bought.
If you wished to do what i suggest in the last line of that post, then just copy the text in the box to a notepad [format/wordwrap unchecked] and save as fixMD.bat to your desktop; dclick it to run... It will first export that key to your desktop for your peace of mind. :)
reg export "HKLM\System\MountedDevices" "%userprofile%\desktop\MounDev.reg"
reg delete "HKLM\System\MountedDevices" /f
pause
Then just restart. And to import that same file to the registry for whatever reason just rdlick it on your desktop, choose Merge [or Open with, Registry editor.... if you see that instead]. But importing it will revert your registry, so if the LaCie works after the restart importing it would set you back.
Amaze your techie friend.
So I went here, http://www.dlink.com/products/?pid=DFE-690TXD
..clicked the top download button for Vsn 5.000, got a .RAR file, extracted it to a folder [it contains about 20 subfolders with countless files, not just 4]
In the parent directory there is a file, INSTALL.exe... just dclick that, your OS will be detected and installation will follow automatically.
Good luck, theos.
Or possibly you have some malware which is trying to hide itself by that simple trick. Here is another sign of it:
O7 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System, DisableRegedit=1
==Please download Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware
from: http://www.majorgeeks.com/Malwarebytes_Anti-Malware_d5756.html
or: http://www.besttechie.net/tools/mbam-setup.exe
=Dclick that file, mbam-setup.exe, to install the application,
-ensure that it is set to update and start, else start it via the icon, and UPDATE it.
Select "Perform QUICK Scan", then click Scan; the application will guide you through the remaining steps.
ENSURE that EVERYTHING found has a CHECKMARK against it, then click Remove Selected.
If malware has been found [and removed] MBAM will automatically produce a log for you when it completes... do not click the Save Logfile button.
Examine the log: if some files are listed as Delete on Reboot then restart your machine before continuing.
Copy and post that log [it is also saved under Logs tab in MBAM].
Okay... let's see... Windows does not know your drive by its drive letter, that is just a tag it applies to simplify things for us.. ["I also tried changing the Drive letter with no effect."].
HKLM/System/MountedDevices.
"The MountedDevices subkey stores the database of mounted devices for the NTFS file system. This database associates persistent volume names with unique internal indentifiers [guid] for volumes. The internal identifiers often include the disk signatures of the volumes. This pairing enables NTFS to maintain the identity and persistent name of a volume, even when its variable device name changes.
NTFS uses this subkey to support mounted drives on all types of volumes, including removable drives and CD-ROM drives."-M$.
The \??\Volume{... entry is the volume name; double-click an entry, a window should pop with text representing that drive's guid.
eg. \??\STORAGE#RemovableMedia#7&23909c82&0&RM#{and remainder}
The \DosDevices\... entry relates the volume name via that same guid to the drive letter associated with it currently.
eg. \DosDevices\K:
Windows keeps track of all removable storage-devices ever connected. So the moment you connect e.g. a USB-storage-device a new entry will be added to the list. The reason for this is that you're able to access a specific storage-device even if the drive-letter changes or if it even has no drive-letter assigned. The Logical Volume Manager of Windows uses this to show you a list of available devices, even the ones that have no drive letter assigned. If you change the partitioning of a …
Gee, these speed tweaks. First thing you should do is re-enter Tuneup Utilities, tap the Restore button and revert everything you did with that pgm. Then remove it.
Deleted your iconcache.db? It's not something I have ever felt the need to do... did you increase this value also :
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE/Software/Microsoft/Windows/CurrentVersion/Explorer:: Max Cached Icons? I see there are guides to do just that so your desktop refreshes faster...[??], and if you check more than one site on that subject then it rapidly becomes clear that few of them have a clue what they are talking about, or even bothered to check. Sheesh.
Anyway. Some say the value represents cache size in KB, some that it is a DWORD value, others a REG_SZ or REG_EXPAND_SZ... some say that it is the amount of RAM that caches icons. Oh dear...
Your iconcache.db should rebuild as your system uses icons. It is basically a file with a list of icons used, referenced by filename, entrypoint, with below a database of actual icon binary data.
My machine does not have that key value name. I see there are 6MB of icons in my cache, sometimes I have seen the icons ripple and change in sequence, sometimes an incorrect icon appears. Am I bothered by that? Not at all.... they come back in correct form soon enough. I could admit that my world doesn't turn on icons.
You may have a useful System Restore point. Try …
Gurgle "upper and lower filters"... the web is full of it. No filters, you see...?
"Do you have any sort of flash keyboard with its own drivers, or are you using std Windows drivers for it [ie did you load drivers especially for your kb]?" Because these drivers would NOT be loaded in Safe mode, rather the kb would use the MS default drivers. Any proprietary drivers would be loaded in Normal mode and settings would over-ride the use of the MS defaults, so if they are corrupt then you would experience a problem only in Normal mode. Something to check!!
If it is a malware problem then this should give it a run for its money; run it in safe mode, if it finds problems run it afterward in normal mode, if possible.
==Please download Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware
from: http://www.majorgeeks.com/Malwarebytes_Anti-Malware_d5756.html
or: http://www.besttechie.net/tools/mbam-setup.exe
=Dclick that file, mbam-setup.exe, to install the application,
-ensure that it is set to update and start, else start it via the icon, and UPDATE it.
Select "Perform QUICK Scan", then click Scan; the application will guide you through the remaining steps.
ENSURE that EVERYTHING found has a CHECKMARK against it, then click Remove Selected.
If malware has been found [and removed] MBAM will automatically produce a log for you when it completes... do not click the Save Logfile button.
Examine the log: if some files are listed as Delete on Reboot then restart your machine before continuing.
Copy and post that log [it is also saved under …
Do you mean by that that the file extension is .WINZIP ? change the extension to .zip and try it. WINZIP is a commercial compression pgm for zip files. But the driver package should be available from multiple trustworthy sites.
Did the driver not come in a self installer package? You really need the inf file to make the correct settings, reg entries.
Most "drivers" you dl you dclick to extract and run the installer.
Problem is not your actual keyboard, then. So you are able to enter Safe mode, then? System Restore will not cause you to lose any data files.... it does not back them up in any way, only changes to pgms and Windows are wound back.
Do you have any sort of flash keyboard with its own drivers, or are you using std Windows drivers for it [ie did you load drivers especially for your kb]? If not, I'd suspect malware. Is the kb not functional in Safe mode? Hmm.. I think something is suspect power-wise, still. Get the voltages measured. By the way, when I said earlier to measure them with the PSU unplugged from the system, you still need some load on it otherwise most will not regulate. A tech can do it for you in a couple minutes with a plugin load.
%systemroot%\system32\restore\rstrui.exe
Possibly there is an error in the winlogon reg key for userinit which is causing the freeze; malware sometimes uses it to start itself.
"can't load C:/PROGRA~1/Ofoto/OfotoNow/OFUSBS.DLL" ... did you restore to a date before you loaded this?
What window installer patch? It has a number/code. Why not reload it?
" Recently AVG kind of misbehaved, ie it refused to update and was giving me alerts".. what kind of alerts? About viruses, or AVG problems?
Did you scan your computer with an online AV before installing Symantec?
Perhaps it is still infected. Do you have the original MBAM scan log? Post it..
They are standardised... but you can find them and the wire colours by seraching your PSU model. It may be best for you to take the PSU or case to a tech who will check them with a load plug... take him 2 mins.
If you have a DVM [dig multimeter] look up your PSU and check. The PSU must be connected to a load for it to regulate correctly. eg. your mb. But you are quite sure that your CPU heatsink is well seated with good, soft paste?
Power lamp blinking? I'd say the Power Good check was cycling because a voltage to the mb is being pulled down by a failed component. Check voltages with mb plugged and unplugged.
I do it cos it's quick.... I can plug up a system in much less than 5 minutes...and if I only want it for a few hours, limited risk.