Do you mean over clock, it sounds like this person is telling you that they over clocked the VGA.
Biostar makes motherboards, so this is probably the manufacturer of your motherboard.
The VGA is your video graphics array.
Caveat emptor.
Do you mean over clock, it sounds like this person is telling you that they over clocked the VGA.
Biostar makes motherboards, so this is probably the manufacturer of your motherboard.
The VGA is your video graphics array.
Caveat emptor.
Try a system restore, if that doesn't work use your repair disc.
Have you run any scans for infections? If so what have you used, and did you run them in safe mode?
If you have not, I would suggest that you download and run the following utilities in safe mode, it is important that you do run these is safe mode.
When did you upgrade to IE7?
Wipe the hdd with something like WipeDrive or Kill Disk and you should be able to format, partition, and install the OS. You will need to make a CD of the download, make you CD-ROM the first device in the boot order, place the CD in the drive and boot from it.
Did you re-apply thermal compound when you installed the new heat sink?
It would help to know the make and model of your computer and RAM. And what did you reinstall, and do you have sp2?
Yes, that would most definitely cause your problem. Open your case and make sure that the fan on your CPU is working, also look to see if there is an accumulation of dust on it as that also will cause the HSF to fail. Try running with the case open and see if there is any difference in temps.
Which Crucial modules did you use? ASUS can be a little picky about what RAM it likes.
You browser is what you use to go on line, like Internet Explorer or Firefox. What are you using?
Call your ISP, let them sort it out.
If you are this obsessive you should be removing programs that are in the add/remove list from there and then you shouldn't have these problems.
You might try going to start> search> for files or folders, enter the program that you that you are trying to delete and go from there. Be careful what you delete.
The general consensus regarding Vista from those who know is to not buy it until at least a year has passed or they have applied their first service pack, and now you know why.
I can't see where it would be any problem, it's tried and true technology.
Which Presario exactly do you have?
Does this only happen when you are backing up DVDs?
Try this, download Everest Home Edition and check and see what your voltages are while you're doing this.
What usually happens in these instances is that the sudden cut off can damage files. Have you tried a last good configuration?
It would help if you were to at least hint as to what you are using for a browser.
Yes, it could well be a virus, maleware, ... Have you tried running any scans? The most effective way to run your scans is in safe mode.
Memorizing and regurgitating information is one thing, being able to apply this information in a practical application is another, and that's where experience comes into play.
As for how you come by this knowledge, I would be more interested in hiring the person who was self taught and pass their certification. The person who learned by their own efforts may not have had the structured curriculum that a class would offer, but from my own experience I know that I have received a much broader education by teaching myself.
There are those that are auto-didactic and will actually do better outside of a structured class.
Are you taking into consideration the size of the Vista file?
Depending on the OS you are using you will need either sp4 for W2k or sp2 for XP to get around the 137GB limit that the BIOS will recognize.
My first thought was that the CPU was overheating and some first time builders don't apply thermal compound or not enough and the CPU overheats and shuts the computer down very quickly. If you have any doubts purchase some arctic silver and apply a small amount to the CPU. Do remove the pad first and clean the mating surfaces.
I doubt that your problem is you RAM. I would look to see if you have a short from the motherboard to the case. On the back side of the board you can see a solder pad around the mounting holes, these are the only areas that should be touching metal.
Another route to take would be to remove every thing from the motherboard but you CPU and heat sink and fan, and you PSU and turn it on, it your computer shuts down start looking for a short. If your computer doesn't shut down you should get some beeps for the failed POST, you should check you manual to be familiar with the different codes. Add you RAM next, and then you graphics card, usually adding the component one at a time like this will show what component you are having a problem with.
I know this is probably redundant, but go back and check all of your connections, check you header connections, make sure your RAM and cards are seated properly.
Does the computer come on and stay on after being turned off for a while?
This could be a over heating issue, have you clean out the inside of the case recently?
I believe Infarction is right, certifications will get your foot in the door, but experience is what will get you the better jobs.
It would be helpful to know what make and model your computer is.
I have a Gateway Notebook about a year and a half old. Periodically, the screen locks up, I disconnect the power cord, pull out the battery. I reconnect everything with no response from the power button and no lights on showing power. In about 10 minutes power comes on. Yikes!
Thanks
DB
If you post your own thread you will get more readers which would be to your benefit. Posting your problem in someone else's thread only confuses the original thread when people start replying to both questions. This is considered hijacking, not cool.
Two wires come off of the header on the motherboard and run through the on/off switch. This switch is a momentary type, this means that it only makes contact when it is depressed.
To replace this on a desk top computer would be pretty easy, replacing one in the laptop could be complicated. Getting access to it and finding one that will match its size and shape will be the biggest problems, but it can be done if you are mechanically inclined.
Can't be bothered going into specs????
That board needs a PSU with 250W and 18A on the 12V rail, does you PSU meet these specs?
Did you apply thermal compound between the CPU and the heat sink?
It's called the world series, and the St. Louis Cardinals won by defeating the Detroit Tigers four games to one.
Open the case and see if you can determine where the noise is coming from, see it's the fan on the CPU. If the bearing/s of the fan is bad it could make this noise
The fan speed is controlled by the temp., so playing games which use more resources could cause a rise in temp.
The temp you want to be concerned about is that of the CPU. I don't trust most utilities to read the temps, but Everest Home Edition is one that consistently mirrors what is showing in the BIOS. It also is specific in what temps are being read.
Have you tried cleaning out the dust and pet fur? As I said previously, the CPU is the important one, make sure that the heat sink and fan a free of dust. While your at it do a visual inspection to be sure that the heat sink and fan are properly attached to the CPU.
What make and model is you computer, if it's a home brew what is the motherboard and processor? How large is the PSU? What graphics card are you using? How much RAM do you have?
APC is the manufacturer, UPS is the product.
Ohm's law is useful only if you add all of the combined wattages of the combined devices.
That link is either temporarily down or out of date.
Glad to hear that you found a solution, there are several options in this case.
bondi...this is part of the learning curve, use google and see what's out there. Basically what you are doing is asking other members to do the leg work for you as they probably won't have this information on hand.
Try clearing the CMOS, if your BIOS is configured to force the faster ultr direct memory access (UDMA) this can happen.
If you can get to the recovery console try running chkdsk /r.
If you know what the manufacturer of you hdd is you can go to their web site and download their diagnostic tool. You will the need to make a bootable floppy to test you hdd.
More information can be read here.
I was reading the thread here about basketball and remember an old joke about the Sacramento Kings and thought I would share it here. For those who keep up with pro basket ball will remember that until this last year they had actually been doing well, prior to that...we don't talk about it here.
At the end of Desert Storm General Schwarzkopf was taking his last walk through the desert when he found an old oil lamp in the sand. He brushed it off and much to his amazement a genie appeared and told him that he would be granted one wish. Schwarzdopf thought for a couple of minutes and pulled a map out of his pocket, pointed to the middle east and said that his wish was for eternal peace in that region. This obviously staggered the genie, after the genie recuperated he asked if Schwarzcopf had an easier wish to fulfill. Schwarzcopf thought for a couple more minutes and said "yeah, I want the Sacramento Kings to be the NBA champs", the genie held out his hand and said "give me that danged map".
I like both college and pro basketball. I grew up in Lexington KY while Adolph Rupp was still coaching at UK. Under Rudds leadership UK won 27 south eastern conferences and won 4 NCAA championships. In 1966 I watched "Rupp's Runts" go to the NCAA championship game where they lost. The tallest starter on that team was 6' 5". Some of you will recognize one of those players, that would be Pat Riley head coach of the Miami Heat.
Mostly tech help, I need the aggravation.
Now it makes sense. That motherboard only has one IDE socket, and you have plugged two PATA hdds in there and now don't have any place to plug in your CD-ROM.
My suggestion? If you have four SATA hdds then you should have enough space to transfer the information from the PATA drives and eliminate the old drives. Or you could install them in an exterior enclosure and connect them via a USB port. Extension cards are going to make the speed of the optical drive dependent on the PCI bus speed.
The "Backups" is called a UPS, Uninterruptible Power Supply.
Care to tell us how you determined the proper Volt-Amp size you needed for your computer?
First of all there is a square four pin connector that is located just above and to the left of the CPU, you can see it here, this connector is also from the PSU, it is a P4 connector and powers the CPU,is this connected.
Some motherboards will not be stable without the 24 pin type PSU.
Disregard this post, read the second, posting error.
Google is your friend, use it.