Posts by techsheaven

It looks like your Network adapters simply have different capabilities, but I am willing to take some time to look into it.

Please do speed tests at the following address using the host closest to you and F16 image: http://performance.toast.net/

Well, the most significant thing is your BDP (Bandwidth-delay Product). This just confirms what you already know - that data transfer on one machine is different than the other (and substantially). Though I am Net+ certified, I wouldn't say I know all the variables that come into play to calculate the BDP. We do know that there is a bottleneck or two in the data transfer though. We also know that is is at your location! Take a look at the patch cables. I assume they are CAT5, or CAT5E Are they the same type?

Now run the optimizer on the slow PC and do some more speed tests (I would not mess with the fast one yet - we need to use it for a guide to changes in the network speed.)

I did not take the time to read your data (though I did scan it quickly), and would say this: ComboFix is designed to cut through anything that stops you from having access to the tools you need to fix your PC. If I were you, I would re-install AVG and take any other problems one at a time (though I doubt there will be any). I realize that is a bit un-nerving. As far as undoing changes, I have never needed to, so I do not know. Please post anything you find here, and I will help you correct the issue if I can.

Good Luck

I can see you are angry, and I do not know the full story why, but I will say that I make a considerable amount of money helping people during the day. At night I volunteer my time to help others because it is sites like DanniWeb that support my efforts.

If you were asked to start a new thread, it would likely be because your problem did not match the original posters problem. We are always mindful that each thread is a orderly, focused conversation that can help more than one person. If the thread is "hijacked" (focus diverted to another, similar problem), it will become hard to follow and downright confusing.

I hope this helps. Please also realize that we come home (at least I do) exhausted each night and sit down to try to help a few more people. I have nearly completed my BS in IT and have worked with everything from mainframes to pocket PCs. Does that mean I know everything? NO, but what I do know, I offer you. I'll be looking for your post.

Good Luck

Sounds fun... And I like prizes!

Why don't you use this TCP/IP analyzer:

Go to http://www.speedguide.net/index.php
Point at the top, there is a tiny link named Broadband
Point to Broadband Tools
Select SG TCP/IP Analyzer

Do this on each PC, scroll down to the results and post each here (You will be doing this for the benefit of others since the issue may be clear).

Now you can repeat the process EXCEPT select the SG TCP/IP Optimizer. It will be important to save the file rather than running it!!! UAC will cause it to fail if you just run it!

-Save the Optimizer noting the location (I recommend re-directing it to the desktop so you can find it).
-Right-click and Run As Administrator (It will show your current settings).
-Select the Optimal Settings bullet at the bottom.
-Click to apply changes.

Your throughput will not match exactly, but if you take the average of 3 or 4 on each machine, they should be pretty close.

Remember too, not all network adapters are created equal, neither are CAT5(e) patch cables.

I can't wait to see what your results are!

Good Luck

Ok, I need the Stop Error. Would you post it?

When Windows encouners a problem, it will restart by default. If the system encounters an error durring shutdown, it will revert to the default behavior of restart. I suspect this is the case with your machine. Please take note of any errors and post them here. For now, there is a work-around:

Click Start
Right-click My Computer
Select Properties
On the Advanced tab, click Settings under Startup and Recovery.
Under System Failure, if the Automatically restart check box is checked, uncheck it.
Make sure the box is checked to write a log file.

I expect that this will not resolve the issue, but it will log an error and shut down, hang (just stop), or bluescreen. Let us know what does happen, and post the results. Then we will look at the next step.

Good Luck,

techsheaven

nicknicknick,

Let's see if I understand... You are working on your computer (notebook or PC?) and the screen will suddenly go blank. Right? Is there an error? Is there a pattern to the beeps? what do the lights on the pc and monitor do? Can you reproduce the problem on demand? Does it happen when running a certain program? Does it happen when the computer is idle, or active?

techsheaven

The first thing to do would be to uninstall the driver and software and re-install it. If you don't have the disk, try the following link:

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/siteHome?lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us

Post your results when you are done.

Good Luck.

robbie r:

Glad to see you looked for a simular post before starting a new one; in this case you should start a new one. When we change the focus of the discussion it is called "hijacking a thread." The idea is to keep things organized and focused toward a resolution. I'll be looking for your thread . . . Why not name it something like, "HP beeps but will not boot," and post it in "Dead Machines."

Good Luck,

techsheaven

Great -- Glad you were able to work it out. Don't forget to mark the thread a solved!

According to MS, every edition is on every DVD. It is the Key. Some features may not be available if your hardware will not support them. If you have Win 7 Enterprise Full version up and running, I would advise you to save the key for a rainy day. If you are trying to convert the Evaluation Version MS does not support it.

What Operating System?
Your power profiles may be customized. Try a default plan (and reset it).

Try the following link for XP:
http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/setup/learnmore/russel_02march25.mspx

Try the following link for Vista:
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-vista/Change-create-or-delete-a-power-plan-scheme

Try the following for Windows 7:
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows7/Power-plans-frequently-asked-questions

Good Luck

The only difference between the two is how they are licensed. Is there a feature you are trying to enable? I guess I am looking for a problem to solve... but don't see one. Maybe more detail about what you hope to achieve will help.

Colisu:

Let's start with some clarifying questions:

What is the model of your wireless print server, and what do you expect its role should be on the network?

What type of printer do you have, and how is it connected to the network?

To plug it in to your PC is to say, "I want to print through my PC." Is this what you intend?

There are many reasons you could be getting this type of error, but I would say the best practice is to use a good anti-virus and (even if you do not use it) keep Internet Explorer up-to-date and clean.

My best guess without more info is that you are using an bad add-on.

Post a HijakThis Log and I will try to sort it out for you.

http://download.cnet.com/Trend-Micro-HijackThis/3000-8022_4-10227353.html

http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/565w213d.aspx

Reset IE:

Click Start
Right-click Internet Explorer
Choose Internet Properties (if it is not there, look in the control panel)
On the Advanced tab, click the Reset button
Check the box to delete personal settings (this will not erase your favorites).
Click Reset

When you open IE you will be prompted to choose some initial settings, and you will need to set your homepage(s).

If that does not work for you post back here.

Good Luck

frioz.raj:

Have you found a solution? Internet Explorer can be run without add-ons for diagnostic purposes. Try running IE from the Run/Open dialog box:

Hold the Windows key and press R
type the following: iexplore
Press Enter

Does your browser work correctly?

You could just turn off UAC and then turn off the balloon notifications.

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-vista/Turn-User-Account-Control-on-or-off

http://www.winhelponline.com/articles/103/1/How-to-disable-Notification-Area-Balloon-Tips-in-Windows-Vista.html

Good Luck

Do you have kids? Other users have access to your computer? If not, I am thinking you may have some malware running on your system. If your hard drive were failing, I would expect to see more issues than just changing file associations.

I would say to download and run Malwarebyte's Anti-Malware, then Hijack This ... post th Hijack This logs

http://download.cnet.com/Malwarebytes-Anti-Malware/3000-8022_4-10804572.html?tag=mncol

http://download.cnet.com/Trend-Micro-HijackThis/3000-8022_4-10227353.html

Good Luck

Go to the Virus Scan AlertingConfiguration panel.
Check the radio button for "Enable centralized alerting."
Click on Configure, and browse the the alert location.
Check to see if you're running VirusScan Alert Manager as the SYSTEM account. SYSTEM can't use network drives since it is a localmachine account.

Paraphrased from: http://www.tek-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=608912

Good Luck

What's the model of the system?

Your original configuration may work better if you play with the spooling. I would think that you would want to disable spooling on the secondary machine. I have observed the very situation you now face. Try a USB print server -- you'll be glad you did.

http://www.compbargains.com/_e/Print_Servers/sproduct/11939771/IOGEAR_GPSU21_Print_Server.htm

Any idea on how to connect the hard drive out of that machine to one of my laptops

Yes. You need to get one of these (follow link):

The adapter you would use would be like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Combo-Drive-Co.../dp/B002AQ9JGI

There are many brands though -- Google "IDE to USB adapter" and click shopping.

Good Luck

Hannah:

Not all pings will receive a reply, because the server (or network) may be set to ignore them. I suspect your issue has to do with your wireless. . . If you would answer a few questions, I may be able to help.

Do you have any wireless devices in you routers range? Land-line phones that operate on the 2.4 Ghz Range are infamous for interference.

Are you using wiresless G? Or What?

Do you know what channel your router is set to?

Do you know how to log in to your router? If not, what is the brand & model?

If you realize that there may be something interfering, try using it while connected to see if it drops the signal. If you cannot find such a device, or you suspect it is out of your control (maybe a neighbors phone), we will change your routers channel. The default is usually 6; 1 or 11 are recommended in this type of situation.

I look forward to reading from you soon.

I'm assuming you mean Domain Host. It all depends what you need. Some have tools you may be interested in. Google it and check out what each offers. GoDaddy is popular.

Was your issue resolved? If so, don't forget to mark it as solved.

This is one of those cases where I would love to get my hands on that machine. Yes, I am still willing to help, but you probably have a bad mainboard. You can get the whole computer for under $100US on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/DELL-Dimension-4550-P4-2-0GHz-1GB-RAM-Parts-or-Repair_W0QQitemZ310212889623QQcmdZViewItemQQptZDesktop_PCs?hash=item483a210c17

The adapter you would use would be like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Combo-Drive-Converter-Adapter-Supply/dp/B002AQ9JGI

Good Luck!

Ideally, the lights should be off, flash a bit, then go to all green.

Correction/crarification: The lights should come on, but will NOT be all green in this case!

You should have the front panel lights and switches attached, the processor, heat-sink and CPU fan (which I think is also the case fan with green shroud), the power supply to the motherboard and that's about it. Ideally, the lights should be off, flash a bit, then go to all green. With the RAM out, you should get 3 beeps.

When removing your AGP card (which Dell recommends to do every time you change RAM), be sure to note the tab at the end of the card that needs to be pressed. There is no on-board video in this system, so you we hope to verify that the POST is initiating (though it will not complete since it will not find the minimum 128mb of RAM.

Did you try resetting the bios yet? It will involve removing the cmos battery.
You can also try setting the bios to it's default values in the bios menu.

As crunchie says, removing the CMOS battery, waiting a minute, and putting it back in will reset the BIOS to the default setup values. This is a cell about the size of a US Quarter. You can remove it by pushing the retainer spring and allowing it to pop out (sometimes you have to lift it out).

You will not be able to access the BIOS menu because you cannot see it (unless you've memorized the key strokes).

If that gives you video, you're on you way to getting back in business; if not, the next step is to remove PCI cards, hard drives, external devices, video card -- anything that can hang the system.

The idea is to get the motherboard to it's basics: Processor, RAM, Power Supply. You should get lights in rear -- that's the goal. If this is unsuccessful, we will pull even the RAM (should give you A=green B,C,D=yellow).

Okay, great! The next step is to determine is one of the RAM modules was damaged. The RAM slots should have markings near them to indicate the first slot; they may be marked 1 and 2 , 0 and 1 or A and B. disconnect the power, pull the second module, try to boot. If you get not POST information, switch the one thats in with the one you pulled. Always remember to use precautions to prevent ESD. Observe what does happen -- even if it does not completely boot.

Type to you soon.

About the RAM:

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim4550/specs.htm#1103227

About the POST Codes:

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim4550/advanced.htm#1211091

I expect this system to boot after properly seating the original RAM module. The system can use a maximum of 1024MB Ram as follows:
128-, 256-, and 512-MB non-ECC DDR SDRAM (some buffered RAM may work, but buffering would be disabled). One module of 1GB will not work as the max for each slot is 512MB.

I need more information. Please put the original RAM in the original bank. Make sure the slot and RAM are free of dust. turn on the machine and observe what happens. Are there any beeps? What do the lights do? Can you hear the Hard drive working? Are the fans turning? There are four diagnostic lights on the back; please tell us what color is associated with each (A,B,C and D). Each light will be off, yellow, or green.

Try to take it one step at a time. Give me the information I request, and I will be able to help you find the problem. The answers to the questions may lead to more questions, but I am not trying to waste your time -- they are important. I've make a best guess (wrong RAM type) which we have done. With components configured as they were when it last worked, we have the best starting point for troubleshooting. This does not eliminate ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) damage to the RAM modules.

Hope to hear from you soon.

If you want to join a domain, try the following link. You did not specify which operating system, but some versions cannot join a domain.

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/295017

Just to clarify.. You are adding system RAM not Video RAM?

I would put the original RAM back in as a troubleshooting measure.

I believe this system takes PC2700, so your are installing pc2700, or pc3200 and NOT PC2100 -- Right?

Do you get any POST beep codes?

If this is a cooling issue, it is worth noting that laptops should not be use on your lap (I know...). If the vents are blocked during operation, they can not cool properly, so use it on a hard surface, or be sure you are not blocking any vents.

Sorry about the confusion. I didn't notice that the system was a laptop!

What I was trying to say (without saying it) was that a atx PSU is not fully off until you unplug or turn off via the PSU switch (if there is one).

A laptop will usually only have one fan. A quick-fix/test would be to get a tooth pick and some canned air. WITH POWER OFF, use the tooth pick to keep the fan from spinning too fast (which could damage it further) and blast out all the dust you can.

If I had this machine on my bench, I would take it apart and re-work the cooling on it, but you may not have the resources to do that while traveling.

Also, remove the battery and verify that it will boot with the cord. Then replace the battery and remove the cord to verify that it will boot with just the battery.

Good Luck

It's a USB printer, no Ethernet.

Hmmm... I looked up the model on HP website and downloaded the manual. It said you could connect via ethernet. Is there a plastic plug in the RJ45 jack?

Another thought that points to the power supply is that it started after you moved it. They have several features to protect the system when the power is not what it should be.

A simple tester like the Coolmax PS-124 ATX power supply tester will tell you if it is doing what it should - you can get one for under $20US

This could be interesting to troubleshoot. If a fan in the Power supply is sticky, it can draw enough amperage that the the system hasn't enough. I suspect this is the issue.

If it were a CPU fan, or case fan, the BIOS will often shut it down the system.

Video Fans often cause the system to "freeze" (due to over-heating).

So the first step is to find out which fan was making the noise (and may not work now) and replace it.

Post back here when you have that done and we can take it from there.

Good Luck

Why not connect the printer directly to your router? You will have to reinstall drivers or modify your settings, but either computer can print without the other being involved!

Flickering => Refresh Rate. Again, both need to be set to same.

Maybe start by restoring factory defaults on your monitor.

I have no idea what that may be, but I would start by downloading IE through firefox and reinstall it.

http://download.cnet.com/Internet-Explorer/3000-2356_4-10013275.html

Outlook may get its settings from IE, so I would take them one at a time.

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/813514

Good Luck

Be sure you have the latest drivers for your mouse.
Make sure no light source is interfering with optical mouse.
Disable "Wake on LAN" in the BIOS.

Sounds like you were better off with the virus! Can you restore the files from the recycle bin?

Does the hub cause the problem with no devices attached? Is the power supply the one that came with the hub? Is there an indicator light to assure you it is working?

Will any one of the devices cause the issue without the hub?