I think your solution can be one of the two listed here. If these don't work, this page has many tips for getting your system to shut down properly. Look towards to bottom under "Powerdown Issues" for some solutions to try.
Computers don't keep exact time and don't keep infinitely precise measurements of time. If you are wanting measurements of time greater than a few milliseconds and you are on a Windows system, you can use the GetTickCount function. Record the value returned by the function before and after you execute the code that you want to time, subtract the first value from the second, and you have the number of milliseconds that have elapsed.
I just checked your router's documentation; unfortunately, it doesn't support that feature. If you are still interested in using this feature, I know that it is offered on most current routers (both wireless or wired). If you are interested in replacing your router so you can get this feature, I could make some recommendations.
Userinit is a normal value. The "userinit.exe" program handles different startup routines for different users.
There is something I haven't tried yet, but it might be worth a try. Get the Ultimate Boot CD. This CD will boot and give you access to numerous tools, including a number of different anti-virus programs and even access to your drive. This should allow you to remove the offending file, reboot, and have a clean system. If you give it a try, let me know how it goes.
Check for a value named "shell". The data for this value should be "explorer.exe" and nothing else. I have often seen tough malware put itself in there so it loads before everything else. If you have anything in there, delete it, and just leave "explorer.exe". Hopefully, after you reboot, your system won't be running the processes anymore and you can clean them out.
I found that "wdfmrg.exe" usually places itself in
See about getting a Windows 98 boot disk with CD-ROM support. Then try to change to the CD drive, change to the CD's I386 directory, and run "setup". If you are able to do this, you should be able to load the Windows XP setup from there. This will allow you to use the Recovery Console or to reinstall Windows.
I recommend starting with a thorough cleaning. Use this guide. Start with Step 1 and work all the way through Step 2. See if this helps address some of your problems. If some of the problems still remain, let me know what they are.
You might want to work through the entire guide so that you can optimize and secure your system as much as possible.
The best way that I've found to take care of malware that just won't go away is by following this guide. Starting from Step 1 and moving all the way through Step 2 will remove just about any annoying program. After you run through those steps, let me know if it has been removed or not. I can guide you through more thorough steps to take if it hasn't been fully removed.
If by "nvidia windows xp display" you mean the little icon that runs in the system tray, that isn't your problem.
If you want to try to clean up your machine, you can use the guide that I link to in the bottom of my sig. You might be better off backing up what you want to keep, formatting the drive, and reinstalling Windows.
Does your internet-connected computer connect to your broadband modem with a USB cable or CAT5 (network cable that plugs into the network card on the computer)?
What type of broadband do you have (cable, DSL, etc)?
If you want to write code that you are afraid will damage the system you are working on, use a virtual machine. You can install and run many different Operating Systems from within Windows using vmWare. I often use a virtual machine to execute code that may damage the host system. The beautiful thing about virtual machines is they act like an actual computer, but you can reboot them back to a normal state very quickly.
As for writing viruses, most virus writers create the damaging code by accident or focus directly on specific, known exploits. It isn't necessarily hard to write a virus. It is hard to write one that is very good at getting through standard security and propogates very quickly. I would agree that no school would give this as a programming assignment. A teacher may have students create reports about viruses or the people that create them, but I cannot imagine any teacher actually telling a class to write damaging code that they will then grade. If a teacher actually gave that as an assignment, they could be guilty of academic misconduct and be disciplined or terminated.
Sorry to add to an aging thread, but I just had to throw my two cents in.
Batch files are just a way of grouping together calls to programs and system commands. Everything in a batch file is just something that you can do on the command line. The power comes from being able to group together numerous calls to execute a series of steps. If you are creative in how you use the tools that you have access to, you can create some seemingly intelligent behavior.
I have a feeling that you may be expecting too much out of batch files, but it could be possible to do what you want. What exactly is it that you want to do?
MySQL will just sit there unless something tells it to do something. An easy way to start creating databases and adding tables and data to them is to get a GUI (Navicat is an easy one to get started with. When you are ready to learn some more in-depth commands for MySQL, you will want to start familiarizing yourself with the MySQL Reference Manual. When you are ready to start using MySQL from within PHP, you will want to read a good tutorial on the subject. This tutorial should do well for you.
That's interesting that you got XP to work with SSID turned off. I tried for a few hours to get one of my machines to find my router with the SSID broadcast turned off (even when I explicitly defined the SSID). I found a page on microsoft.com that indicated that it had to be on in order to connect. I wish I could find that page again.
As for the encryption keys, you're correct. My point is that a person could log any data that goes through their connection. Not everyone knows what is secure and what is not. Most people wouldn't know a forged SSL certificate even if their browser gave them twenty dialog boxes that warned them that they shouldn't click "OK". There is also a possibility that the conneciton will have false DNS responses that point to fake sites. I know that the odds of this occuring are extremely remote, but they are possible. The fact is that people can very convincingly lie to you and your computer if they control the data flow. I know if I was a malicious person, I could cause all sorts of problems with everyone who tried to freeload off of me.
It sounds like you might have some type of spyware or virus problems. Use the link at the bottom of my sig to go through the process of cleaning up your machine. If you don't want to take this much time cleaning up your system, backup all the data you want to save and reinstall Windows.
Is there a reason that you want to uninstall it? IE is an integral part of Windows. Removing it is very hard to do and may result in a damaged Windows.
Where are you trying to download these songs from? Many sites try to block your ability to save the file directly in the way that they send the file to you. Since it seems like the site is trying to block your ability to easily save the files, there are probably copyright issues at work. Since that is the case, I'd recommend just streaming them.
You can always get a different ISP. Since your ISP blocks these sites, bypassing the block could violate your terms of service, which can result in you losing your connection and possibly even paying an early-termination fee.
I did some searching and found that it is an account that users in the Administrators group can assign rights to. When signed scripts get called from Help and Support Services pages, the scripts receive the rights of that account. So, in a nutshell, it cannot be used as a standard user. It is a very specific-use account. Got to love MS for that.
I'm not certain, but I don't think just anyone can use that account. Guys, please correct me if I'm wrong. If you are concerned that you might lose/forget your password some day, create a secondary user account with a very complex password that you can keep somewhere secure (not on the system itself :)). Also, be sure to add that user to the Administrators group so that, after you log in as the secondary user, you can reset your main account's password.
I think everyone is missing a very important point. If you are using an unknown connection, you can never do anything secure on it. If you connect through someone else's equipment, they could be logging everything you do. It wouldn't be too hard for someone to lift a few passwords and other sensitive information from the data stream. Everyone needs to keep in mind this simple rule of thumb: "If you don't know the source of the connection, assume that it is 100% insecure."
Juanito, I would just get a connection of your own. Wireless routers are very inexpensive these days. You can get a high-speed wireless router for less than $50 if you shop around. I would recommend checking out NewEgg (they are US-only though). Just be sure to secure your connection after you set up the router. Here are a few tips that will help you secure your wireless network. Don't disable the SSID broadcast though. Everyone recommends that you do, but if you do, Windows XP won't find the network.
It depends on who built your computer. If it's a big-name company, go to their site and go to the support page. If you built it yourself or someone built it for you, you will have to do some research. First find out who made your motherboard and what model it is. Once you know that information, go to their site and look for the driver there. If you don't know what motherboard you have, check the link in my sig to download free software that can tell you.
There are converters to convert a laptop harddrive into one that will function with full-sized IDE and power connections, but I have yet to see any converters that do the reverse. The problem is that full-sized harddrives require both 12v and 5v power connections. Laptops only produce 5v and not the 12v that these drives need.
Most distros of Linux are free, if you download them. You can find a number of links to these distros in the link I provided in my last post (Live CD). Damn Small Linux is a distro that is only 50MB. It can run off of any sized business CD or even flash media (Note: your system must support booting from a USB device in order to use flash media). If you use a USB CD drive with the system, I would recommend trying SLAX or Ubuntu. You can find more Live CD distros here.
Interesting. Let me ask a few more questions and confirm some information.
The router's connection to your modem is always good, but your modem will drop the connection from time to time.
The dropped connection only happens at night or is this the only time that you notice it? If it always happens at night, it's possible that your ISP is resetting your connection. It is common for an ISP to do this nightly if you don't have a static IP connection. I don't know about multiple times each night, but I wouldn't put it past some of the companies that I've worked with.
When one computer reboots, the other computer loses its connection. Does the affected computer lose its network connection completely (you can tell that the connection is lost when a dialog "bubble" will pop up from the system tray to notify you) or just its ability to get to the internet? Does the same thing happen if you reboot the other machine?
Are you connecting to the router wirelessly or with cables?
I couldn't find your router at first. It's actually a BEFSR41, which is the same router I used to use. It's a nice router, and I'm not familiar with any connection dropping issues. That's not to say that there aren't any.
Does your router produce a log? If so, see if you can get some information from the router. Save it as a text file and add it as an attachment with your response.
I have never seen a direct copy work. You need to create a complete "mirror" of the partitions on the drive, including the bootsector. The only way I know how to do this is with software. Norton Ghost can do the job for you.
If you don't want to spend any money, put your new drive in as the master drive and the old drive as a slave, install the OS to the new drive, copy over the files that you want from the old drive, and then format the old drive.
Is there a reason why you can't use the old drive as is and add the new drive as additional storage? If you tell me exactly what your wanting, I might be able to provide you with better solutions.
If you want to run it without any drives other than what you can attach with a USB connection, start looking at Linux. There are many Live CD distros of Linux that can be installed to USB flash drives or run off of a CD from a USB drive.
Other than those options, there is not an OS that I can think of that will run on a machine without any harddrives attached with IDE, SATA, or SCSI.
Are you able to use the printer from the machine that it is connected to?
It sounds like you have a problem with the File and Printer Sharing in Windows. This document might be able to help you set up the sharing so that it works correctly. The first thing I would check is that the workgroup for the new computer matches the workgroup of the other machine. It's not necessary that they are the same, but it does help out.
For printer sharing, this document will provide much more information than I could possibly give. Please read through that document and follow its examples.
You mentioned that you want to play games. I guess you want to play games with each other over the network. - Which games are you wanting to play together? - Are you currently trying to play with each other and it's not working? If so, what's the specific issue?
Each LAN card has its own unique MAC address. You should be able to configure your router to assign specific IPs to specific MAC addresses. This means that you can give your computers the specific IPs that you want to use at home without having to set the IP on the machine itself.
I know that this setup works since I use it at home.
Please let me know what specific router you have so I can give you more specific details.
See if you can find the drive in Disk Management. If the drive appears there, it may not be formatted or partitioned correctly to allow Windows to use it as a drive. If you format the drive again, be sure to select FAT and not FAT32 or NTFS.
I'm curious how if you formatted it and couldn't use it in Windows, how it has one song on it.
I don't understand exactly what you are wanting to know or what you are referring to by simulation.
If you are asking about attaching additional storage with a USB HDD, you can do that.
If you are asking about booting Windows XP off of a USB HDD, you cannot do that. Windows will not install itself onto removable media. You can install numerous distros of Linux to removable media however.
I still don't understand what you mean by simulation. USB flash drives, USB harddrives, and flash media look like regular drives in Windows. They don't simulate anything; they are actual drives. You can use these drives for anything and use them as regular harddrives. You can't install Windows to them though.
If you can clarify what you are asking by asking some well-worded concise questions, I can offer you more assistance.
I really don't know what you are wanting to know from us, so I'll just give you some general information about your problem.
Sounds like you have some dead/stuck pixels or subpixels that happen to all be near eachother. LCD technology is great but not perfect. Most LCDs will have at least one dead/stuck pixel or subpixel. This problem is simply an unavoidable consequence of the technology used to manufacture the panels. There isn't a way to fix the panel other than replacing it, and the new panel will most likely still have dead pixels. Most monitors have warrenties that will only cover replacement if there are more than a certain number of dead pixels (usually around 3-8 depending on the resolution of the screen), and don't offer any dead pixel warrenty coverage for secondary owners.
The laptop that you are receiving has a VGA port and a S-Video out. This means that you can hook it up to an external monitor or television. The 15" screen supports resolutions up to 1024x800, but the graphics card is capable of supporting higher resolutions. I have a laptop with the same graphics card, and I have no problems hooking it up to a 19" monitor and getting 1600x1200 resolution on it. The card is even capable of producing separate images for each monitor so you can dual-screen.
When you mentioned performance, you didn't indicate what type of performance. If you are talking about game performance, such as framerates, attaching a different type of monitor will do nothing to influence that.
I don't think that your problem has anything to do with your mouse. It sounds like you have either a major system problem or a really dirty (full of spyware, viruses, and other junk) system. The files that you can access through P2P networks are full of programs that will infect your system with every type of trojan and backdoor program known to man. Most files are also infected with a program that will copy itself to every file that you are sharing, so if anyone gets a file from you, they just got the infection as well. I recommend that you cease using those programs immediately since just about every file can be contaminated, music files are not safe from infections anymore.
You need to cease using those sharing programs and uninstall all of them. Essentially, you are using a combination of programs that will infect your system moments after you start using them.
After you remove these programs, follow the clean up and optimize guide that I have linked to in my sig. I will warn you now, you probably have a severly infected machine. It could take you a full day or multiple days (depending on your level of knowledge about system maintenance) to completely clean your machine. If you do not have much knowledge about system maintenance, I recommend that you backup whatever files you wish to keep, format your drive, and reinstall from scratch.
You didn't specify which OS you are using, so I will assume that you are using Windows XP. Correct me if I am wrong.
What exactly is the problem with your burner? Is Windows not allowing you to write the files to the CD? Does Windows not recognize the drive as a burner? Do you have burning software that stopped working?
If there is no way to get your burner to work, there are other options.
Follow the clean up and optimize guide that I have linked to in my sig.
If you absolutely must reinstall Windows for some reason, install the operating system on top of itself. Follow Microsoft's in-place upgrade guide to do this.
Repartition your drive to create two partitions (I'll call them C: and D:). This will allow you to copy all the files you wish to keep to the D: partition. After you have backed up your information, you can format the C: partition and reinstall Windows on it. You will need partitioning software to do this, but the easy to use ones cost at least $50. I can recommend some if you'd like.
You can backup your data to some location online. The easiest way to do this is to ZIP or RAR all the files you want and email them to an account that you have that has a lot of storage (GMail, Yahoo, and some others offer a GB or more of storage for …
The Intel Chipsets Support page should give you all the information you need. The site is very large, but if you read what they have to offer, you should be able to work your way to the driver you need. I'd recommend starting off by using their Chipset Identification Utility and going from there.
If this doesn't end up working for you, I will need to know what company made your box and what its product number is.
Is this ringing sound similar to static or an actual sound? Are you sure that the sound is coming from your sound card and not from some other component inside your system (motherboard alarm, hard drive, etc)?
My first thought is that your system is overheating, and an alarm is going off to tell you about the problem. Can you check your temperatures to make sure that you are not overheating?
If it looks like the sound is coming from your sound card, and it is a type of static sound rather than a soundclip, you might try to upgrade your drivers and see if that helps.
Another idea I have is starting up in Safe Mode to see if the sound occurs in Safe Mode as well. If it doesn't you might have a program that is either creating that sound or is interfering with the sound card somehow.
Hey ex. It sounds like you've run into a problem that I've run into before. I never did find a solution (at least not a solution that worked the way I wanted it to). When hardwired connections were all that existed, there wasn't much need to allow systems to have multiple LAN configurations in order to handle switching networks on the fly. Unfortunately, this design concept seems to have stayed despite the fact that systems can hop WiFi spots numerous times a day. If I were designing the latest OS software, I would make a check box that lets the network connection accept DHCP settings if the static settings failed.
My suggestion would be to set your static home IP from the router rather than from the computer. This would allow you to set your machines to accept their IP settings from whatever wireless access point they encounter. I don't know what type of router you have, but all the ones that I've used allow you to set a computer's IP address by means of refering to the computer's MAC address.
Does this sound like a viable option for you? If it does, just let me know, and I can provide some more information on how to set it up.
You're blunt and up front, I like that. I don't think anyone will help you steal your neighbors connection though. It is a bit confusing how you can have a new job but still be out of work. Oh well.
You have to love FFXI. I'm fighting with Square right now to cancel my account since I can't find the numerous reg codes.
I need more information though. What computer are you trying to run this on? I need specific details so I know exactly what hardware you are working with.
FYI, the link you provided does not link to anything useful since it is most likely a page generated for you using information that you submitted to the site.
I believe that you have a Dell Dimension 4100 which has an Intel 815E chipset. If this is the case for your system, it can support ATA/100 drives.
For more information about ATA compatibilities, see Seagate's FAQ on the topic.
Check to see if you have a value named "shell". If you do, it's data should be "Explorer.exe" and nothing else. If there is anything else other than "Explorer.exe", reboot into Safe Mode, remove the extra information from that value, and reboot.
I'd also look for and remove (while in Safe Mode) the registry values and files referred to in these lines:
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [yiwtrkpomvn] C:\WINDOWS\system32\rkonvi.exe
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [time about amen wma] C:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Application Data\16 Browse Time About\corndoes.exe
I'd also recommend that you get a broadband router to connect to your DSL connection and get rid of the connection software you installed. This will give you a hardware firewall, allow you to share your connection more easily, and would make your connection behave a bit better.
What kind of monitor do you have? Do you have the drivers for the monitor installed? What is your graphics card? Do you have the latest drivers for your graphics card installed? Is it Battlefield 2 or Windows that is giving you the error?
This thread might give you some helpful ideas to try.
What game are you trying to play and what machine are you trying to run it on? Does the game give you any errors? Does the game just give you a black screen when you try to run it?
