Posts by dcc

The person who first inserted her politicking about guns on this thread was jbennet, on the first page. The first person to mention the NRA was joshSHC, on page 9. The first person to lose control of her mind upon seeing the letters "NRA" was christina>you, on page 13. I don't see how dcc could be blamed for any of this.

Unless I missed something here, which is very possible as I'm not keeping track, I believe what Christina was referring to was my admonishment about hijacking this thread for technical support. Unfortunately my post was out of order which made it possible for her to (god only knows why) to assume that I was referring to her vote for the NRA rather than her conversation with Josh. Go Figure.

You're the one who brought up the NRA.

Actually the NRA is germane to the topic, I was referring to the tech help you were seeking regarding blocked proxy websites.

Where it say all floopy drives are disabled try enabling it.

There are no jumpers for master or slave on SATA drives.

Is the hdd seen in the device manager?

What motherboard are you going to use?

Is the port enabled in the BIOS to recognize the USB mouse?

Another possibility would be bad caps. This article will show you what to look for.

You guys are getting a little of the topic here, perhaps you should start your own thread to discuss your particulars?

Mattethington wrote...
"And let's look at DCC's interpretation of the second amendment, which he claims is bolstered by court hearings."

My interpretation? That was a quote from a prominent spokesperson! And specifically what was being referred to was the Dick Act of 1903.

http://academic.udayton.edu/health/syllabi/bioterrorism/8Military/milita01.htm

In 1903, Congress attempted to restore the usefulness of the state militias with the Dick Act. This act marked the beginning of the federalization of the militia. The Dick Act also split the militia into two branches: the organized militia, which became known as the National Guard, and the unorganized militia. The act provided federal funds for equipment and training, required drill a specified number of days each year, and gave federal inspectors the right to review state militia practices. Congress continued the federalization of the National Guard through numerous subsequent acts. The result today is that the National Guard is a reserve force of the United States Army under significant federal control.

The NRA went on a campaign a while back to imprint the phrase "the right to bare arms" in the public's mind which has had its desired effects, most of our youths today aren't aware that this is only an excerpt of the entire quotation.

The following two quotes are excerpts from this article.

"Former Chief Justice Warren Burger, appearing on the MacNeil-Lehrer News Hour, December 16, 1991 stated "The Second Amendment has been the subject of one of the greatest pieces …

I provided the courts definition in my previous post.

christina>you...are you "for sure" you're not a bond? You ideas are idealistic...not practical.

joshSCH...I had hoped that I had helped you with the correction of the meaning of the second amendment, it is not "the right to bare arms".
I'm also curious as to your definition of "accident", massacre is a lot more accurate when describing this event.

but apparently they didn't catch it in time or didn't try hard enough.

I think its the latter. /QUOTE]

They did what they could to the letter of the law. Without someone pressing charges against him for the stalking there was no legal action that would have applied to him. These laws that protect us can also work against us. There's that paradox agian.

This was a very disturbed individual, enough so that fellow student stated that they didn't feel safe in the same class with him. One of his instructors even went to the extent of reporting her concern for his potential for violence. Plays that he had written were full of violence. This basically was a violent action looking for a place to happen.

Infraction, as I said previously the government has about as much chance as a snow ball chance in hell of taking away our firearms.

Another means of taking lives mentioned was the use of bombs. In 1997 Congress voted 94-0 to add an amendment to a Department of Defense spending bill to prohibit the distribution of bomb-making instructions, but there are still copies of books such as The Anarchist Cookbook to be found. There are even web sites that will describe the materials and instructions for building a fertilizer bomb. Most anyone can purchase black powder and figure out how to build a pipe bomb. What scares me about these is that they can be left in a public location with several means of initiating the explosive, either by timer or by remote control.

I live in a rural area where the good ole boys define gun control as having a steady hand. But these good ole boys also have a practical appreciation for their firearms, generations of the people have hunted in the foothills and mountains where I live. These people don't depend on their firearms to feed them as they did in the past, but the marksmanship and safety skills are still taught in the family tradition. My point here is that this is the only practical application for owning a gun...unless you intend on shooting someone.

Keeping a firearm for protection has become a way of life for an ever increasing number of people, and most anyone can purchase a firearm for that purpose. Unfortunately this purchase does not require the same type of training that you have to have to pass the written and driving test for a drivers license. Perhaps requiring a certificate of completion from a gun safety course would be good requirement for anyone who wants to purchase a firearm, then again licensed teens are killing themselves and others street racing.

The argument that we should abolish ownership of firearms is a moot point, it just isn't going to happen. If you looks at the statistics 38% of households in the US won firearms. Of those the total amount of firearms is large enough to provide a firearm for every person in the US. These statistics come from a study done in 2004 and is …

dcc, U answered your own query "the disc format code and doesn't even try to read the disc." the older CD RW drives were the only drives that could read the RW disc that was written in it(or possibly another RW capable drive), this was sometimes so bad that it was OEM specific. don't think that they ever worked the bug out, not a very critical issue, apparently they didn't.
.

What I was talking about is in the lead in, this has nothing to do with the burning.

Look on the bottom and see if there is a panel cover held in place with screws, if there aren't it most likely will be as caperjack described.

The CMOS battery is mounted on the motherboard and you should be able to remove it from it. Four years is a long life span for that battery. If the battery is bad it won't keep your setting in the BIOS, if it is bad the date and time will not be accurate.

Have you tried getting into safe mode? If you can get into safe mode look in the event viewer and see what is showing up when it is shutting down.

What happens if you right click in the tool bar, does it shut down the computer as well? When the computer shuts down are there any LEDs or is it completely dead?

If you have a voltmeter see what the output of your power supply is.

I see that the hijackthis log shows that you have SP2, so I guess we can discount that being the culprit. I had to laugh, I tried to use the help link that was provided in the log...it didn't work.

I did a little digging around and found this, I hope it helps.

Some drives and players are confused by DVD-RW media's lower reflectivity into thinking it's a dual-layer disc. In other cases the drive or player doesn't recognize the disc format code and doesn't even try to read the disc.

mechbas...what is the difference in technology used to burn DVDR and DVDRW?

Please provide us with the make and model of you computer, or motherboard if it's a home brew.

So what happens when you turn on the computer and don't access the BIOS?

It might help if you provide us with some specs.

Have you recently flashed the BIOS.

How old is this machine, if it is more than a couple of years old it may be worth trying a new CMOS battery.

With the known good PSU installed and its fan doesn't spin up it looks like the motherboard. The PSU requires the motherboard to make contact between the green power on wire and ground in order to turn on the PSU.

Another thought here, try jumping out the on/off header and see if that works, it could just be a bad momentary switch.

If it is a USB keyboard and it is not enabled in the BIOS and was working previously you may want to consider replacing the CMOS battery.

Thirty two people were shot to death today at Virginia Tech, twenty five others were wounded, and the gun man took his own life.

I'm speechless.

Download SIW and it should tell you what the CPU is and answer most any other questions regarding what is there.

Is that IE7?

It would help if you could provide the readers with some basic specs, what software were you using, what make and model is you burner...

Does you computer go directly to the BIOS without going through the POST?

While you're in the BIOS can you navigate with the enter, up/down, esc, +/- keys?

Can you exit it by pressing F10,Y, and enter?

The icon that is shown is for WinZip, I have WinZip and it tells me that I may need another tool to open that file.

Seriously...if you wish to get some help here just provide us with the error message.

You should be able to copy and paste from one partition to the other, after that follow the instructions to delete the partition. That is the beauty of the second partition, you don't have to reformat to change the OS or in this case to delete one.

Please list the error code, my winrar free trial expired and I'm not interested in pursuing it at this time.

If your hard drive is installed in a PC running Windows XP, you can go to Control Panel - Administrative Tools - Computer Management - Storage - Disk Management. You can then right click and remove the partition that you want. You then can right click on that and restore the partition.

TT4Titans...we need to quit meeting this way. I was actually partitioning part of my hdd and had to wait to post this, so you beat me.

Read this and see if it helps.

As for the SP2, as I recall you can't uninstall it or reinstall over it.

What was the original problem?

What you are describing are double sided module, your motherboard may not be compatible those module. You may have to phone HP to find out.

If you can see if you can get you money back.

This is one of the reasons that I will not buy from Ebay.

There should be a square four pin connector next to the CPU, that is where it goes.

jbennet...how many post have you made??? And you ask these questions without providing us with information that is a must in order to help?!?

The manual should have instructions for wiring the header. That's the best I can do with the information provided.

Did you reformat and partition the drive first?

SATA hdds don't need jumpers and are not run in master and slave configurations.

The SMART feature of the hdd is a self testing program that monitors a number of parameters, if it reports that there is a problem you should be prepared to replace it because it is going to or has already died.

Having already filled one 400GB hdd it's obvious that you are going to need a second, so cut you losses and go for it.

Find out what the make of the hdd is and go to the manufacturers web site and download their diagnostic tool and run it to see what condition you hdd is in.

You will most likely need to transfer this to a floppy and boot from it. This also means making the floppy the first device in the boot order in the BIOS.

It might be worth wiping the drive and do a fresh install. Sometimes things just go wrong. I was installing a copy of W2k that I had and when it came time to enter the product code it wouldn't recognize it, it did the second time I installed it...go figure.

Did this hdd have a OS on it when you received it? Did you format and partition it prior to installing the OS?

What program did you get to check the temps.?

Everest Home Edition is pretty accurate in reporting what is being seen in the BIOS, how ever accurate they are.

90 degree C is like 194 degrees F, that should be shutting down the computer in a hurry. have you checked to make sure that the case fan and the CPU heat sink fan are running. Have you cleaned out the computer recently, accumulated dust on the CPU heat sink will cause overheating. Also check the intake to make sure it's no restricted, mine gets filled with cat hair. You should look at the HSF on the CPU and make sure that it is seated properly.

I found this, hope it's what you were looking for.

-Click Start, Select "Run"
-Type "GPedit.msc"
-Expand the "local computer policy" branch
-Expand the administrative templates" branch
-Expand the "network branch"
-Highlight the "QoS Packet Scheduler" in the left window
-In the right window, double-click the "limit reservable bandwidth" setting
-One the setting tab, check the "enabled" item
-Where its says "Bandwidth limit %," change it to read 0
-Close out of the window and reboot to make the new settings active.

When you say that you settings are changed are you referring to the settings in the BIOS? If it is change the CMOS battery.

Your problem could be your RAM or PSU. You could download and run Memtest 86 to check out your RAM.

As for the PSU, if you know how use a voltmeter and are comfortable poking around inside the case you could check the voltages of the different rails. With the power off, either by the switch on the back of the PSU or unplugged not the switch on the case, disconnect the 20/24 pin PSU connector. In the bundle you find one green wire, place a jumper between that green wire and any black wire, this bypasses the motherboard. Turn on the PSU either by its' switch or plug it in.

To test the different rails you will need to know the different color codes and their associated voltages, you can get those here.

There should not be any corrosion on the battery or its connectors.

Your're on the right track, the width of the CPU’s address bus determines the maximum amount of RAM that can be used. If you want to read more about this go here.

The other determining factor is the OS, W2k and XP have a limit of 4GB, but with Vista this gets a little bit complicated.

* 32-bit versions of Windows Vista Home Basic, Home Premium, Business, Enterprise, and Ultimate: 4GB
* 32-bit Windows Vista Starter: 1GB
* 64-bit versions of Windows Vista Home Basic: 8GB
* 64-bit versions of Windows Vista Home Premium: 16GB
* 64-bit versions of Windows Vista Business, Enterprise, and Ultimate: 128GB

Different modules have different numbers of pins, PC133 has 168 pins, PC2100 has 184, and so on. This makes it impossible to install the wrong type of RAM.

The following is an excerpt form this article.
Motherboard chipsets not only control the maximum amount of RAM you can insert, but the cache area as well. The Cache area is the first X megs of RAM that the L2 cache can retrieve information from for relaying to the CPU. If there is more RAM on board than the maximum cache area can handle, all memory after the limit must be accessed directly by the CPU, which can involve performance hits depending on application.

I hope this helps.

If you know what the make of the hdd is you can go to the manufacturers web site and download their diagnostic tool. Most of these will have you download this to a hdd and then make a foppy to boot from. If your laptop doesn't have a floppy you should be able to make a bootable CD with a utility like Nero. You will need to make the CD-ROM the first item in the boot order to use it.

Hi Jim, and welcome to DaniWeb.

You're on the right track, use the voltmeter to see if you have the proper voltages. If I'm not mistaken you have two fans, a case fan and a CPU fan, and both should be spinning when you start the computer. One fan failing I could see, not both.

If you can get into the BIOS see if you can find the SMART, and see if it is enabled. If it is and the hdd is bad it should show SMART is bad in the POST.

There is another option using the diagnostic tool provided by the hdd manufacturer, but it involves using a fdd and as I recall that computer doesn't have one.

The message regarding the SMART being bad means an eminent failure of your hdd.

Are these hdds PATA or SATA?

If they are PATA and you had them connected as master and slave with the hdd with the bad SMART it may have died and is no longer being recognized.

If the second hdd that you took out and placed in another computer has a OS you may have messed up the OS. Hdds recognize the chipset of the motherboard that they are installed with, and when you introduce the hdd to a new motherboard with a different chipset it confuses the hell out of the OS...some times fatally.

If this is the case and you have the installation CD with the certificate of authenticity you can do a repair. This site has pretty clear step by step instructions for this procedure.