Posts by jak0b

If you can't see the dvd drive as a boot option, then bios don't know it is there.

First you have to check if the dvd drive is connected properly.
And then you have to enter bios, and load the defaults (usually F9).
Remember to save the changes in bios (push F10 to save and exit bios).

At the next boot, dvd drive should be an option on the boot list. :)

I couldn't find any reviews on the HP (1040e isn't specific enough), but between the other two - Lenovo is still the winner imo. :)

Don't worry about Lenovo.
It is a huge brand in northern Europe (at least), known for reliable laptops.
But since you didn't write anything about which model you are looking at, I can't of cause be too specific. :)

If you get an option to boot to freeDOS, then you have a freeDOS bootable device attached. Maybe an usb drive, or maybe the harddisk is preformatted with that option (could be a "hidden" install/recovery partition, usually found on brand pc's).

If that is the case, the dvd drive is not on top of the boot-priority list, and you need to correct it. Or you can see, if you can select the boot device by pressing F12 (spam the button, as soon as keyboard lights up) at power up.

you just need the "Remote Server Administration Tools" on his machine.

Then he can manage the OU with the AD admin-tool. (just like you - except he have limited access, to that specific OU only)

Hi Trogan

The boot manager that you get, is it something like the picture or is it exactly what the picture shows?

What are your options on the screen? (important detail - hint) :)

What I was trying to suggest, was to find a computer repair shop, and ask for a price on a repair (new/another used motherboard), and compare it with the price on a new laptop. And then decide what is the best offer of the two.

Your motherboard is defective, but since the pc is about 3 yr's old, you might be better of buying a new laptop - considering what a repair might cost.

TrueCrypt which is suggested earlier, is also free. - NO trial ware, and NO nag screens and such, but fully functional.

Using truecrypt, you can create a highly encrypted file, and mount it as a drive with a folder structure.

Another option could be to create a new small partition on your harddrive, and encrypt it with bitlocker. But that is even more trouble than using truecrypt imo., and still isn't what you ask for (which isn't functionally sane btw. ;) ), so I recommend TC as the best safe alternative as I see it.

It sounds like some component(s) is starting to fail. Since it is likely out of warranty, you may be on the hook for repair/replacement.

I agree with this.

If it was my own, I would probably try to reflow the motherboard, as a last resort. But that is a lot more than I would recommend unless you are a professional pc repair tech, who have experience with that kind of work. ;)

@joe2

I agree with you that an external drive wouldn't benefit you anything.
It would actually do the opposite, since a usb attached disk is slower than a disk directly attached to the motherboard controller.

:)

Tracking cookies can be used to track your surfing habits, and are usually obtained on most commercial web sites, and any site with banner commercials.

If you want to get rid of them, you can run your "super anti spyware" in administrator mode (right click the icon, and select "run as admin", on the small menu).
And always remember to update your definitions before scanning. :)

But even if they are considered spyware, they are usually not malicious.

reinstall by booting from the windows install cd.
Select custom install -> when it ask where to install, select advanced and remove previous system partition.
create a new partition and do a full format - then I guarantee it will act different.

:)

It depends what you a going to use it for. (I assume the price is equal on the 3 laptops)

I agree with jingda that the lenovo is the best laptop for performance, since it have both a better cpu and a good quality dedicated graphics chip, but it will most likely affect, how long time it can run on battery.
So if that is an issue, you might want to consider one of the other options.

In regard to the Graphics (GPU), both Nvidia and ATI/AMD are well performing, when it comes to gaming and other "excessive graphics" demands. But if you are only going to use it for general office applications, you might never notice the difference to the intel GPU.

oh, and btw. Lenovo have a very good cooling solution, which in my experience work better than the competition, because it sucks the air in from the back, and blow the hot air out to the side - most other competitors rely on sucking air from the bottom (which is often limiting the airflow), or sucking air from the top (which usually is a little noisy). :)

I had the same problem one time.

Solution: Get the ISO file from Microsoft download here
http://www.microsoft.com/download/en/details.aspx?id=5842
(remember to select your language if it isn't english)

Burn the iso file to a dvd (use imgburn if you don't have another already)

Or, You can mount the iso file with magicdisc virtual DVD drive

Both magicdisc and imgburn is free software (without shareware nag-screens and limitations). :)

have you tried to boot from the windows install disk, and select the repair option?

Might be worth it.

You will ofc. revert all settings to defaults, but all your stuff will be in the usual places. :)

in "HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\exefile\shell\open\command" my default says: "%1" %* and not "%1" "* like you wrote. Maybe that is your problem?
I am running XP sp3.

I removed one of those pest's last week as well, from a friends pc, and was able to start any .exe file from command prompt as long as I didn't click on any of the popup boxes, but just killed them with Alt-F4. And after renaming the malicious exe in the first place, the mbam could remove all traces with a complete scan (including the renamed exe file. :)

I believe it is a driver issue - like win 7 not recognizing your keyboard, when you try to install it.
And the fact that you have started a new install, which didn't finish, will ofc. give you a bsod, since what you have on the hdd is only part of the os.

I suggest to try and enter bios - load safe defaults (F9 usually).

Then restart the install by booting from the usb drive, end during setup when it ask for language - give it plenty of time to search for the driver (5-10 min.), and if it still doesn't respond after that wait -> reboot/reinstall again, and try to bypass that part of installation if you have an external keyboard attached (maybe you can borrow one somewhere?).

Other that that - install the original OS, and run an upgrade to 7 (I believe you originally got it with vista installed, since it is 2 yo)

Hi again jox

I can't say for sure that a new power supply will solve your problem (without having a tech inspecting it), but I think it is highly likely that it will.

Here is a link to a good quality PSU unit, that I recommend you to buy
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/430w-corsair-cmpsu-430cx-builder-series-80-eff-120mm-fan-single-12v-rail-atx-psu

Since I am not a UK resident, it might not be the best offer available, so if you know of a better(cheaper) place to shop, just look for the same brand and model. :)

I agree that it sounds like the motherboard can't pass the self test.

But it might not necessarily be expensive to fix.
At my work we have some sales personel, occasionally breaking an USB-connector on the motherboard, which will often result in a short circuit from the pins to ground - which will result in a "dead" machine, just like yours.

If you can cut the pins as low as possible in the usb connector - and make sure that none of them is touching each other or the grounded metal "wall" - you might be lucky that it didn't burn anything else.

Check the USB connectors and see if one of them is broken and shorted out.
If it is, and you manage to remove the short - it might just start up again.

good luck :)

If you can find the original BIOS, you can try to flash it again, and after at reboot, enter bios setup, and load the defaults.

If that doesn't help, you should start a RMA ticket with the reseller.

have you tried to switch the vga/dvi cable, or maybe tested it with another monitor.?

I would first boot to safe mode, and run "chkdsk /f /r /x" to see if there are any errors in the file system. (might require a reboot here)

If that doesn't help, then next step would be to boot to safe mode, create a new user account with admin rights, and then log in to that new account.

If that is working, then I would copy all documents, favorites, and desktop links/files to the new account from the old one - and run a complete malware scan.

If it isn't working, I would go back to safe mode, and uninstall all recently updated drivers. (and try to log in again, and so forth)

Your 8800GT have a listed max power consumption at 105 Watt.

According to this list: http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/2011-gaming-graphics-charts/3D-Power-Draw,2678.html

You should be able to change it to a "Sapphire Radeon HD 5770 1GB", but I have no idea about the cost of that card in India.

I will recommend HardwareSecrets.com, as a good place for most HW related understanding.
And specifically this about RAM http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Everything-You-Need-To-Know-About-DDR-DDR2-and-DDR3-Memories/167

:)

I suggest you start with updating the BIOS to latest version. http://www.jwele.com/motherboard_detail.php?488#_bios

After that, you should enter the bios and load the defaults.

Then I would customize the XP CD/DVD to contain the latest SP3, and all the drivers for that motherboard, using nLite.
Get nLite here: http://www.nliteos.com/
Get all the latest MB-drivers here: http://www.jwele.com/motherboard_detail.php?488#_driver

Additionally, you should find all other drivers needed for your hardware (whatever you have), and include it in the XP install dvd.

Use imgburn to burn the finished ISO file to DVD, instead of trying to limit the size to fit on a CD (I never had any trouble installing XP from a custom DVD).

IF this doesn't work, you might have a broken piece of hardware somewhere in the setup.

Good luck :)

you need this tool. :)
http://www.piotrbania.com/all/kon-boot/

You can not prevent packet sniffing in a wireless LAN.

If I have a wlan adapter running in promiscuous-mode, it will be able to, listen to all packets sent within range of my antenna, no matter how you configure your router.

I will be able to record all traffic (within range) and, if it is un/decrypted, recreate all the sessions, for whatever purpose I want (if I can reach both the client and the access point, without packet-loss).

You can't have wireless-network safety without encryption.!
WPA2 is afaik still the best, if you use a properly strong key

and btw, the MAC address range is about 281.47498 E12.
Scanning that range with "forged" ping request's, within a reasonable time, will be a challenge on it's own :)

You are right royng - pulling the power plug will not reset it to default's, just reboot it (which can cure if it "hang's").

If it is an ISP-issued router, it might need some special settings applied, for your ISP. Better check with them if it is a viable solution.

Another possible course to your problems, might be the wlan driver, if it has been updated by windows update. Sometimes the suggested driver just doesn't work properly with some hardware.
If this is the case, you have to uninstall all related drivers, reboot, and then install the driver from your manufacturer. (or force the device to use a specific driver through the device-manager)

You will of cause have to download the proper driver, before you disable your lan :)

I would not buy a server like this for workstation use, but rather buy some of the components, and assemble them in a chassis with lots of air vents, or maybe water cooling.

This server is build as two servers in one box, which is no problem as a server, since it will very likely be used as part of a cluster, running virtual machines.
But used as a workstation running an ordinary OS, you can't really benefit from the second half. It will just work as a second pc in the same box (a little simplified).

For an ultimate stand-alone workstation (mar. 2011), I would recommend a 48-core configuration, using one of these motherboards:
http://www.supermicro.com/Aplus/motherboard/Opteron6100/SR56x0/H8QGi-F.cfm
http://www.supermicro.com/Aplus/motherboard/Opteron6100/SR56x0/H8QG6-F.cfm

This CPU:
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K10/AMD-Opteron%206180%20SE%20-%20OS6180YETCEGO.html

and whatever else you like to add.

Both the MB's have 2x PCI-e 2.0 x16 slots (for gfx), and will probably run Windows 7 x64 ultimate, without any problems (you might have to search for some of the drivers, as they are probably not included on the standard dvd).

Also, I will remind you to buy a sufficiently strong PSU for such a configuration.
Thermaltake Toughpower 1500w would fit IMO, but you should calculate on the final configuration before buying (I have only estimated the power need).

Check your router, if it is set to broadcast SSID (network name).

If it is, you can try to restart the router/access point by pulling the power plug for 10 sec.
When it reboot, it should be visible again.

Otherwise, you might have to reset it to factory defaults (read the manual :D)

I was just reading about that 96-core monster here: http://www.anandtech.com/show/4180/opteron-magnycours-gets-a-speedbump

and some more details here: http://www.dell.com/us/business/p/poweredge-c6145/pd

:)

Most consumer pc's are build in an ordinary ATX chassis, so you can probably fit any ATX-PSU in there.

I suggest you start with finding a gfx-card that you like, and then find a psu with sufficient power potential.

And I then recommend you take a look at these two sites, and look for some of the tested/recommended psu's
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/page/power
http://www.silentpcreview.com/Recommended_PSUs

If you want to know about your own cpu, you can use this http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html

or if you just want to know a little more in general, you can start here: http://www.tomshardware.com/news/Components,1/CPU,1/

and continue with this: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/common_cpus.html

and then go on with google. :)

jeffreylee@

re: 4- Wrong, USB transfer speed have nothing to do with the CPU speed or the amount of CPU cores.

Have you checked for updated usb/chipset drivers?

Depending on your version of Win 7, you might have a free option to install xp-mode, which is an XP pro running in a virtual machine.
The Win 7 ultimate version have it included as an option - no extra charge.

If you are running some of the other win 7 versions, you might have to pay for an XP pro license, unless you have one that you are not using somewhere else.

Anyway, if you have sufficient RAM (4+ GB), I think it is a better option, compared to installing XP and dual boot (with a very few exceptions).

Here it is.

Product Current Latest Driver
Installed Driver Update

NVIDIA GeForce 7300 258.96 GeForce/ION Driver v266.58
SE/7200 GS Version: 266.58 WHQL
Release Date: January 18, 2011

Includes several bug fixes-->
• Improved scaling quality with video streaming content from 3DVisionLive.com over previous 266.35 Beta driver
• Adds 3D Vision Window Mode support for the following games and applications:
• Games
o Aion
o Crazy Racing Kart Rider
o Crossfire
o Dragon Nest
o EverQuest 2
o Guild Wars 2
o NED
o PopKart
o QQ Dance QQ
o QQ Xian Xia
o Tian Long Ba Bu
o World of Warcraft – Burning Crusade
o World of Warcraft – Wrath of the Lich King
o Xun Xian
o Zhu Xian 2
• Google Earth
• Improvements to 3DVisionLive
• Adds support for new 3D Vision Desktop LCD monitors: Acer GN245HQ, Acer HN274H, Hannstar HS233, I-O Data 3D231XBR, Lenovo L2363dwA, Planar SA2311W
• Adds support for new 3D Vision projectors: Acer X1261P, Sanyo PDG-DXL2000
• Adds support for new 3D Vision All-in-On PC: ASUS ET2400XVT
• Adds support for new DLP HDTVs: Mitsubishi WD-83838, WD-83738, WD-73838, WD-73837, WD-73738, WD-73638, WD-73C10, WD-65838, WD-65738, WD-65638, WD-65C10, WD-60738, WD-60638, WD-60C10, L75-A91.
• Added the following 3D Vision game profiles:
o Arcania: Gothic 4
o Crazy Racing Kart Rider ??????? …

Hmm, the only other possibility I can think of, is to look through the local security policies manually (run secpol.msc).

I think it might just list all the same settings in a different order, but given the fact that it is a different plugin, you also might find some different explanations to some of the settings, or maybe you will even find some specific settings, omitted from the other view.

Anyway - I am pretty sure that you are looking for some reg-setting.
Maybe you can also try to run ccleaner, and see if it can find any traces left of that crappy "install block" (just run the scan, and see what it finds).

HI Paddy

It appears that the install-block have created some "local security policy" rules.
I have two possible solutions for you

1. (the geek solution)
If you type "gpedit.msc" in the start menu

You get to a window with a huge tree-list of possible settings, in various sub's - I can't tell you which setting, or where to find it, but this is where it is hidden.
If you are lucky, the policy might be named as an "install-block" rule, or have "install block" in the comment.
But you will very likely have to spend some time searching for it (remember to read the comments before changing these settings).

There is a lot of possible settings here, and a great opportunity to get intimate with win 7, but also an opportunity to mess it up big time, so think carefully about what you do.

2. (the easy solution, or plan B if you fail on the first)

Boot from your Win 7 dvd, and select the repair option.

Good luck :)

I think you need traffic shaping of some sort.

If you have an advanced router, you might be able to set it in the configuration.
Or you might be able to install something on his pc, to limit his torrent traffic, without limiting other kinds of browsing.

I have a small program installed (cFosSpeed) on my pc, which is working quite well for me, on my own lan. I only want to favor traffic to that one pc, not eliminating the traffic for the others, and it haven't failed me yet - so you can try and see if you can use it.

If you install it on your own pc, you might be able to push his traffic down a bit, or you can install it on his pc, and set a fixed limit for torrent traffic.

http://www.opendns.com/

Is this a question?

Sounds like you are using a Vista Home edition (can't join a domain)

If someone cracked WEP, can I tell?

No, that can be done totally invisible, and they don't have to enter your router at any time to do that, or maybe continue to monitor your data traffic.

You need to change the wifi encryption to (at least) WPA, and use a good strong pass phrase.

auto detecting usb mass storage devices..
device #01 : usb2.0
device #02 : usb2.0
device #03 : usb2.0
device #04 : usb2.0
04 usb mass storage devices found and configured

Is that a card reader?
is it included in the boot order? (try to disable it, or move it below hdd)

Try to reset the bios / load bios default configuration (re-config the sata)

Try to remove cables to any non essential drives/devices during OS install, and plug them in one at a time later, after it installs properly (install with only 1 hdd, and 1 dvd drive attached).

You can edit the registry, to point to another location for the desktop folder (move the folder). Or move the entire %user profile% folders to another location.

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/214470

If you go to Control Panel\All Control Panel Items, and select "folder options", you can select a lot of default behavior.
Also, you can open a explorer-window and set it as you want it, with list view and layout, size, and such. then you can push "apply to folders" button (in folder options) to make it the default view pattern.

I agree that it can be a bad installation of the OS, but it can also be an error in the hardware.

I think you should return it, and get a new laptop.

I believe this is the best option if you need 10 Km range and want to build it your self
http://www.engadget.com/2005/11/15/how-to-build-a-wifi-biquad-dish-antenna/

Good luck :)

twiggy238

That sounds like a typical case of a CPU over heating. Check if your cpu cooler have sufficient air supply.
Is the cpu fan running, is the case fan(s) running (if you have 2, then are they working together like 1 sucking air in front, and 1 blowing air in the back, or similar).

It might also be the power supply getting old and weak (unless if you recently added some new power hungry hardware - then it is just too weak) :)