Posts by jak0b

Did you remember to set both of the Win7 machines, to home network in the firewall?
They should at least be the same afaik. :)

I would try with GetDataBack
You might not get it all back, but with a little luck it can recover some of it.

And stop using the hdd/pc that you need to recover data from - best to use another pc, since windows will randomly use any space on the hdd for temp files (possibly over-writing some of your old files).

If you are sure that the new hdd is connected properly in the socket, then it sounds as if your onboard hdd controller is fried.

If you have changed the hard drive, you have to install your OS again - otherwise you might be able to repair the old one.

Since you didn't write what Operating system you had, I can't guide you any further than, boot from your original OS install disk, and follow the instructions on the screen, depending on which of the above situations are true.

good luck :)

please note my additional edit:

On second thought, the pc might freeze if the circuit-board on the hdd is burned or short circuited, in which case you can't recover anything with software.

you can try with spinrite, it doesn't rely on bios to handle the disk.
The program run's from a boot cd, and will go on reading each sector up to 1000 times, to recover and move data from damaged areas (might take a few weeks for a large disk with lot's of errors)

If that program can't find your disk, you only option left (that I know of), is to send it of to some specialized company like ibas.

Edit:
On second thought, the pc might freeze if the circuit-board on the hdd is burned or short circuited, in which case you can't recover anything with software.

If it isn't a network printer, you have to share it on the network, from the pc that it is connected to, and keep that pc running while you have to print.

TeamViewer

Works with Windows, Linux, Mac, and iPhone/iPad

Is it possible to start windows in safe mode? (push F8 repeatedly after bios POST)
if it is, then try to run msconfig, and disable all non essential programs in the startup, reboot and see if it works.
after you get it to boot, re-enable the disabled programs one by one (reboot after each one), or maybe run a new full scan by mbam, to see it it missed anything at the first run.

If you have an original windows repair/install dvd, you can also try to boot from that, and select the repair option.

Hi Katana24
Sorry about the confusion, but "upgrading" from XP to windows 7, translates to "buy a windows 7" license, and use the migration tool to get documents and desktop to the new OS.
An upgrade license (which is cheaper) is only available for Vista owners.
It is both a matter of license, and compatibility with installed programs, as you have discovered.

I don't think cloud is going to reduce demand on network-professionals that soon, because the demand on cloud-power will raise, at a similar pace.

I think the cloud will mostly matter in where the networking jobs are available - like in data centers and such, but they won't disappear any time soon.

First I would like to remind you that "cloud" is extensive networking - have no fear :)

And the certifications is becoming more important as competition for the jobs raise, so that is the right way to go for anybody in the field.
Experience matters for the salary, more than it does for getting the job (with exceptions of cause).

Some education is always better than none. :)
I think you should go for it, if you want it.

You have extensive user account controls in XP, almost like in Win7, but defaults might have been changed if guest account can access as much as you claim.

Go to control panel to create new accounts, and just create the users that you need/want.
let them have ordinary user access (no admin rights), and the defaults should prevent them from installing almost all programs (some browsers are exceptions).

All portable apps can usually run on the guest account unless you disable it, and there are some very power-full portable apps that can mess with the registry, and the defaults - so I can't promise that it will be enough to solve your problems.

If you type "control userpasswords2" in the "run" in start menu - you get to the user account control panel - use right click for options to create new users etc.

Keep an eye out for the "advanced" buttons and tab's to see the options, and also try to right click on anything for various menu's. ;)

right click the folder
go to security tab, select advanced
go to owner tab and claim ownership of the file.

Or something similar, if I remember correct :)

Anyway - the problem is about not being the owner of the file/folder.

Go to security settings in BIOS.

I don't know how acer bios is specifically, but usually you can push F1 at boot time, to get to bios.
Then just search for the setting.

It can be anything from heat issues, to driver issues.

Please provide more details about both the pc hardware and the OS

50 meters is a very long cable, and you might have problems with internal resistance in the wires.

Usually, I wouldn't use cables longer than 15-20 meters, with home equipment.
If possible, I suggest you get a switch, and plug it in halfway - using 2 25m cables instead - then the switch will act as a repeater (signal booster).

Important last step

7. boot from Vista install dvd, and select repair installation(MBR in Vista is different from XP, and dual-boot won't work until MBR is repaired).

U're Welcome :)

I will recommend the ASUS over that Alienware, because it will give you slightly more hardware for the money, as I see it.
CPU, HDD, ports, cardreader, etc. = Equal
RAM 8 GB vs. 6 GB = ASUS +2 GB
Screen 17" vs. 15.6" = slightly better for gaming IMO
Graphics = about equal (but ASUS give you 1.5GB dedicated GDDR5 Ram)

But my knowledge about Alienware is limited to what I can find on google, so don't rely entirely on my estimate. Try to find a shop where you can see them both, next to each other, and get a feel for the differences that might be.

I agree with Rick that the Lenovo is a better quality, but the difference from 12" to 17" is quite big, and the specs on that ASUS looks like it (almost) is a portable workstation.

I guess my recommendation depends on what you intent to use it for, and if you are going to travel a lot with it (small is better for travel).

My experience with ASUS in general (not particular the laptops), is that they make fairly good quality for the money, and I don't expect you will get much trouble if you have to file a RMA ticket, given the brand value. But I haven't tried it my self though. :)

64 Bit windows is a must if you are going to use/need more than 3-4 GByte of RAM, but that again depends on what you do with the pc.

What kind of security are you asking about?

If it is encrypted traffic, you can use EFTP, VPN, and possibly others as well.
If it is about ensuring that the file have arrived safely, you might be looking for something like robocopy.

I don't think the limits are with XP, but rather some of the old network adapters (or possibly the drivers).

A lot of huge books is written on that subject - please don't expect any easy answers for that sort of questions ;)

Here is a general guide to understand networking basics

And here is a link site to lots of stuff about networks

:)

Yes it is possible - check this out :)
http://www.techsupportalert.com/best-free-folder-synchronization-utility.htm

Or you can get Hirens boot cd, and boot to mini XP with proper tools available - then you don't need to reboot, since the hdd isn't used by the system :)

Continuous Beep can be CPU error, like 1 pin not connected, or a few pin's short circuited.
Check if the CPU is seated properly in the socket, or maybe try with another cpu if you have a spare.

check this comparison out:
http://www.guruht.com/2010/04/phenom-ii-x6-1055t-vs-x6-1090t-vs-core.html

Sorry - not true.
Windows 7 is build on top of vista core. XP have a very different core, incompatible with Vista and 7.
You can migrate settings and personal files from XP, but not upgrade.
The upgrade package is for lesser versions of 7, or windows vista.

I you want to use linux sometimes, and windows other times, then I think you should dual-boot.
If you want to use them both simultaneous, switching back and forth - then you should obviously run one of them in a virtual environment of some kind (I can't advise you on that since I only have experience with hyper-v /MS-server).

Removing an OS is very simple, just boot from a secondary media (dvd/usb) and format the disk where the OS is installed. Most OS installers also have an option to remove/create partitions on an early stage in the install process - just remove the partition where the unwanted OS is, and create a new partition for the installation of your favorite OS.

Best of luck

If it is heat related - opening the case might give you more time to test it, before it goes black and fuzzy.

Also, gpu's usually generate a lot of heat, and if it is integrated in the chip set, along with improper cooling, it is possible to wear down your chip set a little faster.

If you installed a cheap dedicated gfx-card, and disabled the integrated one in the bios, you might be able to postpone the motherboard upgrade for a few years (if you want), but I can't give you a guarantee on that of cause. :)

It might be heat related, but it might be connection related as well.

first do as barryt suggest.
Maybe try the other gfx connector if possible.

Then you can check if the gfx is over-heating with GPU-Z (download at the bottom of the page)
If you can get far enough with the boot, of cause.

If this is not possible, I think you should try with a dedicated gfx-card.

that is possible of cause, but then you might as well connect to pc's directly with a network cable (same thing).
or you can use a laptop that you move back and forth between the 2 networks.

ok - that is what I assumed from the first post.

Then you have to accept that, without network as an option - automation is not possible.

Are you willing to make an exception on the USB policy, on only one of the internal pc's - so you can use that?

Otherwise you are quickly running out of options as I see it.

If the problem in the first place was the gfx-card getting too hot, switching the slot might have provided better air-flow around the card.

You can try to download GPU-Z and see what kind of temperature the graphics card is working at, while under heavy load.

If you can explain in details, why you can't/won't use a network cable, it will be a lot easier to understand your problem, and suggest a way around it.

Manually using an USB vs. automatic solution is contradictive in nature, and I can't see the harm in a network connection, if it is configured properly.

You can configure a network connection from one of the "internal" pc's to the external network, without compromising safety on the entire internal network, and also without granting access to the internet from the internal network.

please explain.

btw. If the limit is a matter of location (wire isn't possible), maybe you can use a wireless solution?

Since the first intel dual-core processors came out, there is no more MS-Dos compatibility (windows 98 and below). If I remember correctly ;)

I believe your best chance to run a win98 today, is in an emulator - although I can't see why you would miss the 32 GB hdd limit, and the 640 Kb base RAM :D

If you run an XP with minimal GUI, it is pretty fast on today's hardware.

I have a similar setup, running VM's as well (except I didn't OC it).

I have 12Gb ram installed, and think it is sufficient to run 3-5 server's/client's simultaneously, depending of cause of the work load.

If you need more VM's than that, I think you should go for the 24 GB ram, before upgrading the cpu.
Remember that insufficient ram will become a serious bottleneck as soon as Windows starts to use swap-file on the hdd (even with the 2 SSD's you have).

??

I believe you are talking about another kind of networking.
maybe this can help you: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Social_Media_Optimization

why not use a cd/dvd?

You can install a dvd drive on one of the pc's in the business network, and use it for a controlled transfer of specific data, if you only need it once in a while.

If the need is more like a daily task, I suggest you consider buying a good router, and get help configuring it, to meet the security demands.

The error beep code is caused by a memory error.
You might not have re-seated the ram module properly, or you can have "burned" it with static electricity (always handle ram by holding it on the side-edges - avoid touching the gold-connectors or any components on the platter surface).

try to re-seat the module again, and make sure it is well seated in the socket before pushing it down into locked position.

I found this explanation on another site about write-caching to hdd's

Disk Write Caching is a feature which allows you to increase the performance of your Hard Disk. While this can improve performance, it comes attached with its own risk. If the system or disk loses power then there is every possibility that the data gets corrupted or lost in the event of a power failure. Depecnding upon the criticality of the data and the reliability of the power and power backups and UPS, enabling or disabling Disk Write Caching should be enabled or disabled.

You can see the System rating for your Disk changes before and after enabling/disabling Disk Write Caching

Windows 7 and Windows Server 2008, by default enables Disk Write Caching. However, to enable or disable Disk Write Caching,

1. Click Start, right-click Computer and select Properties.

2. In the leftpane, click Device Manager.

3. Expand Disk Drives and right-click on the disk where you need to enable or disable Disk Write Caching and click properties.

4. Click the Policies tab and check “Enable Write Caching on the device” to enable (default). To disable, uncheck the box.

I think you are looking for this little freeware :)
http://fileforum.betanews.com/detail/Startup-Delayer/1088376249/1

go to start menu -> all programs -> accessories -> right click windows explorer, select run as administrator.

Then go to your disk, right click on it, select properties and see if you have the security tab.
If you do, then select it and click the advanced button.
In the new window you should select the owner tab, select the edit button, select the admin and remember to tick the box where it says "replace owner on sub-containers and objects" - then click apply/ok.

If you still can't see the security tab, then you don't have proper admin rights.

My first thought is, if you have selected default settings for the bios, then it isn't overclocked, and you can have some trouble with the ram (voltage and/or timing)

If you have had to remove your ram, to get the hdd out - you might have a ram-connector problem (just try to re-seat them).

If you have reapplied the overclock in bios, as it were before - you might be pushing it too hard (you can try to lower the speed a little)

And btw. If you want to clean a ram connector - don't use sand and ordinary brushes - You really should use a glass fiber pen, so you don't ruin the connector surface.

If it is sensitive to that kind of small shocks, I think you have a bad connection somewhere.
I recommend to first check all the connectors to the motherboard, including video card, ram, and so forth.
If that doesn't work, you should remove the motherboard and everything else that might be in the way, and remount the motherboard - here is a good guide you might want to read first:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/How-to-Install-a-Motherboard/145/1

If you manage to do it properly, I believe your problem is solved.

If you didn't assemble it your self - you should get some help from a friend who have tried it before, or maybe a professional.
Remember that static electricity can easily burn any of your components, so be careful to avoid that. :)

I think if you repeat step 2-5 and skip number 6, it might work again.
in step 2 you should maybe also restore it to an older point than first time, if that one is giving you trouble.

Electrolytic capacitors dry out with old age, they don't blow :)

All PSU's will loose capacity in time due to this fact, even if you stick it in a closet, just not as fast as if it were plugged in and in use (a matter of temperature).
On average, PSU's will loose 10-15% power each year, so your 430W Antec will provide 190W-280W after 5 years

I suspect you PSU is getting too old, and even if the PSU-fan spins up (only 100-250mA), it probably just can't handle the system anymore.

You can try this calculator to see what is recommended as a minimum: http://www.coolermaster.com/support/psu_calculator.php

The hard drive and BIOS is locked, and you are supposed to enter a code at that screen.

I am not sure if it is possible to unlock that old model in an easy non-intrusive way, but I had a similar problem with a Think pad R51 which I had to change a security chip to get working again (switched the chip with a spare from another broken R51).

If you don't know how to solder SMD chips on a motherboard, I suggest you buy a new net-book or something like that. :)

Hi all

I am living in Denmark, and enjoy my work as an IT professional.

I have had a passion for pc related puzzles, since I first discovered the complexity of those, some 20 years ago.
My background is a basic "discrete electronics" education, but computers turned out to be more fun. :)

Today was a quiet day at work, so I joined here for the challenge.