Actually, it's not at all the same. You're not working with the same code that has worked before, you are using new code that you have yet to be able to get to work. There is a problem somewhere, you just aren't seeing it. You can always do the old debug method of take what works and modify it to do what the code that doesn't work is supposed to do and see where the code breaks in the process.
As for loosing the formatting, that's why I told you to put the code in CODE tags.
This isn't a fix for Outlook, but a viable alternative.
I junked Outlook a year ago for Thunderbird. Thunderbird does all the things I used in Outlook and does some things that Outlook doesn't. One feature I like, and might interest you, is that the composition window has a dropdown to select the account that you'll use to send the message. This allows you to easily check to ensure that you are sending from the correct account and allows for quick account changes.
stubighead, start you own thread so we can focus on your problem and not the one that is marked solved.
If you haven't done so, go through the steps listed in the My PC won't start - Read this first! stickied thread. If it doesn't help you fix your problem, it will probably help you diagnose what component has the problem.
Asus definately has a bigger following of fans than Jetway, but that doesn't mean one is better than the other. If you have one Jetway board and one Asus board selected and can't decide between the two, start reading reviews about the boards and base your decision on reviewers' opinions on the actual boards, not general bias on company names.
From all that I've read, a higher-grade graphics card will always beat lower-grade cards in SLI. The recommendations that I constantly see is to buy the best card you can and add another in SLI at a later date if you want a bit of a boost. Keep in mind that SLI doesn't mean 200% the performance of one card, even in the best performing scenarios. You will see the biggest performance gains only if the program you are using fully takes advantage of SLI.
Do you not understand how to view a folder in Explorer? Do you not understand how to right-click and select an option fromt he menu? Do you not understand how to rename a file? Do you not understand how to create a shortcut to a folder?
Frankly, I can't describe the process any easier. I can explain how to do one of the steps in more detail if you don't understand how to do them, but I have to know what it is that you don't understand in order for me to help you.
Did you try the instructions I gave on turning everything off? If not, do that first and let me know the results.
If you still have problems after that, use your user guide to go through and set the router up again. If you have lost your manual, you can read the PDF version of your manual here.
Sounds like you might have wanted to read up on issues with the motherboard that you have. This is an all-too-often occurance with home-built machines. Unfortunately, motherboard manufacturers don't always follow all the rules on capacitor placement. The best way to avoid this problem is to do research on the board and heatsink combination that you want to use to ensure that no one has had issues like the one you speak of.
The 80GB one is almost two years old now, so it's definately out of warranty ;(
Don't be so sure about that. Most Seagate drives carry 5 year warrenties. The nice thing is that when you RMA the drive, they send you a replacement one and you keep the original warrenty.
I bought a drive last year that got the "click of death" problem. I'm RMAing it currently and will receive a replacement of the same kind with a warrenty that goes to 2009.
Try this to force the system to "reset" itself. If you have a battery, take it out. Disconnect the power supply (take the power cable off). Let the laptop sit for about ten minutes or so. If the battery had a charge, put the battery in and try to start the laptop. If you put the battery in, take the battery back out and let the machine sit for about ten minutes again. Plug the power supply up to the laptop again and try to start the laptop.
It is highly doubtful that you damaged your laptop just by pulling the plug on it (unless you pulled the plug out in such a way that you damaged the board: pulled the cable and not the plug, yanked it out, pulled it out at an odd angle, etc). It is possible that your machine had prior damage and just happened to "break" at that time.
Considering that producing a virus could potentially be a criminal activity, I don't think you can reasonably expect anyone to post virus code. Why are you interested in code for a virus in Java?
It looks like an older router, so finding people that have direct experience with it might be hard, but the device itself should be fine.
There are three main parts to successfully setting up a network with internet: hooking up everything correctly, configuring the router correctly, and making sure that the computers are configured correctly.
The correct hardware setup is to connect the DSL phone line to the DSL modem, connect the DSL modem to the router's WAN port with a network cable (standard cable, not crossover. You should not use any crossover cables for this setup), and connect each machine to the router using any of the router's non-WAN ports.
I don't know all the details of your DSL connection and how it's setup, so I will assume that it is like mine. When I had my DSL modem directly connected to my machine, I had to run software on my machine in order to connect. When you use a router, you do not need this software (uninstall it) since the router will handle negotiating the connection for you. You will want to configure the router to use a PPPoE connection and will have to supply the router with your username and password information for the connection. You will also want to enable the router to automatically reconnect if the connection becomes disconnected. Some of this setup may be different for your connection (you may need to contact your ISP to confirm the settings). Make sure …
I really don't know what to tell you. It's a real bummer that you couldn't get it to work. One thing that might give you some ideas is hooking it up to a different machine and seeing if the same problem happens.
In a situation like this, contact D-Link support and Creative support, and ask if there are any known issues. One of the support centers should be able to provide assistance to you.
I've seen my D-Link USB wireless devices do some wild stuff (all of it driver related). I actually had a D-Link tech guy on the phone who said, "Wow! That's really freakin' weird!", in response to an issue that I was having. My opinion is that D-Link drivers suck and will probably never buy another D-Link product.
I'm a big fan of Seagate drives since they have great warrenties, don't give me many issues, and are relatively quiet. If you are concerned about the health of your drives, first turn on S.M.A.R.T. for your drives in your BIOS and then run Seagate's SeaTools to check your drives for errors.
If your "faulty" 80GB drive is indeed faulty, it's not too old, and you haven't done anything to it to void the warrenty, it should be able to be RMA'd for a replacement.
I agree with dcc. Nothing is "future-proof". With each year, manufacturers are able to push technology to limits that were never considered possible in the previous years.
I'm a utilitarian computer user. I love video games, but I mostly play old ones. I'll probably start playing HL2 in a year or two (when it's below $20). Heck, I still play my original HL that I've owned for over five years now. My rule is that I should never buy anything that will go down in price 50%+ in a year's time. Making a purchase that breaks that rule literally flushes money down the toilet. I believe that there needs to be people that purchase products at price levels that break my rule since it drives the market and future development, but I don't believe that the average gamer or computer user should fit in that category.
My advice is to invest in harddrive capacity, good RAM, and a nice socket 939 board with a nice, but relatively inexpensive, 939 AMD 64 chip. All of these items are at record low prices (RAM prices were inflated for nearly two years). The money you save on purchasing smarter can be used to build a whole other machine (with similar products to those that you listed) in a year's time. Maybe I'm just not geeky enough since I would consider a 3000+ AMD 64 chip to be screaming.
Are you asking about the cables that connect from USB jacks on a case to the USB pinouts on the motherboard? If so, no, not all the hookups are the same. They are standardized; however, so you should be able to connect most case USB cables to motherboards that have USB pinouts.
The thing to watch out is that some plugs are a full plug with a 2x4 pinning pattern, whereas some plugs are two plugs with 4 and 3 pinning patterns. The ones with a full plug should be easy to figure out since one of the pin holes is capped off so that you connect it facing the correct direction. In order to properly connect plugs that are separated, match the markings on the plugs to the markings on the pins (if there aren't markings, it's going to be very difficult to determine the correct facing to plug them in).
The USB ethernet adapter isn't very likely to be the problem.
I disagree with SimpleJohn, you cannot use this as a router. The reason for this is simple, it's not a router; it's a switch. Most routers are actual routing devices with a switch built-in. By no means does this mean that a switch is a router, it means that most routers have switches.
I suggest that you get an actual router since that will save you many headaches in trying to tweak this setup into a very mediocre and problematic solution.
It seems like your computer is running in the DMZ. Make sure that you don't have any computers configured to be in the DMZ in the router config.
Ensure that your router is configured to be a DHCP server.
Make sure that both computers are set to "Obtain an IP address automatically" in the TCP/IP properties of the Local Area Connection Properties.
Turn off your cable modem, router, and both your computers. First turn the cable modem on and allow it to fully initialize. Then turn your router on and let it fully initialize. After the router is up and running, turn on your roommate's machine first and allow it to load, and then turn your machine on. Once both machines are up, check to see if both have a connection. If they don't, check the IP that both are using. They both should be of the format 192.168.1.* or 192.168.0.* (unless you changed the router's IP address and subnet masking).
As for thinking that the IPs should always be 192.168.1.10*, that's a good idea, but it all depends on how you configure the router. If you change the router's IP address to 10.0.0.1 with a subnet of 255.255.255.0 and tell the DHCP server to start numbering IPs from 50, the first computer to lease an IP from the DHCP server will have an ip of 10.0.0.50. As I said above, make sure that your DHCP settings and DMZ settings …
Did you follow your router's guide to setting up your router? The guide will walk you through the steps of setting things up simply at first to ensure the connections work, and then they walk you through the steps of setting up security.
Furthermore, are your router and wireless card in the laptop compatible? If your router and wireless card are both 802.11b or 802.11g (in any combination), then they are compatible. If one of them is is 802.11a and the other is not, then they are incompatible.
javamann... Stick to one thread. There was no need to create this thread since it doesn't ask anything that is off the topic of your other thread. Furthermore, you do not need to link to your thread in the introductions tread since it wasn't an introduction, it was simply the exact same post as the first post in your other thread.
The size of ints is dependant upon the compiler or compiler setting. It would seem that your compiler defaultly uses 32-bit ints, as most "standard" C compilers should. The same code run on a 64-bit chip with a 64-bit OS will provide the same answer.
It wouldn't make much sense that the size of your variables would change with the processor that the code is run on. If this were true, there would be great problems with running code on different chips. It is for this reason that code has to be specifically compiled to take full advantage of 64-bit chips.
The answer to such a question depends highly on what type of application you are making and what your preferences are.
If it is a large, multi-file program, you can have a text file that holds strings that are used in different parts of the program. This way you can update the text without recompiling the code.
If you want the text in the program code itself, I'd have it as one large string on one line, this way you can easily copy all the text, paste it in Notepad, modify the text there, and paste it back in the code without the hassle of handling multiple lines in the code.
It's funny, but almost all of sunnypalsingh's questions sound like questions that an idiot teacher would ask. Knowing the answer to such questions doesn't help anyone understand programming and definately doesn't help a programmer develop good technique.
You need to provide more details for us to understand your situation.
What version of Windows do you have? Do you have SP2 installed? What type of internet connection do you have? Do you connect through a router? Does any other computer that connects to the internet in the same way able to connect? What do you mean by "lock tab"? Are you talking about the icon on the connection that indicates that the connection has a firewall enabled?
Sounds like something deleted the files from your "Send To" folder. You can put that missing "Desktop (as Shortcut)" file back in there (though it won't look the same). To put it back, navigate to "C:\Documents and Settings\[your username]\SendTo" (mine looks like "C:\Documents and Settings\Chris\SendTo") in Explorer, right-click an empty spot inside the folder, click New, click "Text Document", rename the new file "Desktop (as Shortcut).desklink", and accept the dialog that warns you that the file may not work anymore. Now you should have to option back in your menu.
Now you know how to add different destinations to your Send To menu, just add a shortcut to the folder you want to be able to send to in that folder, and you can send to it from the Send To menu.
Let me check to ensure that you have hooked everything up correctly. Your setup should work as follows: Cable line with internet connects to your Motorolla Cable Modem, you have a network cable running from the Motorolla Cable Modem to the WAN port on your router (whether it is wireless or not), and you have a number of computers (more than one) hooked up to the router with network cables. Does this description match your setup?
I understand that you want to get wireless working, but let's ignore wireless for right now until we can make sure that your network is functioning correctly.
What router are you trying to use (please specify the brand and model number)?
The "duplicate name on the network" error message means that you have more than one computer using the same Window's network name. In order to change a computer's network name, right-click on My Computer, click Properties, click the "Computer Name" tab, click "Change...", give the computer a name that will uniquely identify it (Den Compaq, Ben's Laptop, etc), select the Workgroup radio button, specify a workgroup name that you will use for all your machines (I usually use Home as my workgroup, but you can use whatever you want), click OK, accept any dialog box that pops up, and repeat the process for all the other machines on the network.
It points to the last segment of code because that's where the error is.
A character literal just means a single character. You can use single-quotes to hold one character but not multiple. Check your code and make sure that you did not put more than one character between single-quotes.
i want in html but not php. i hope u have understood my problem
Once again. I understand what you are wanting to do, didn't ask any questions. I have actually built a site exactly like this many times (using Perl and MySQL) but didn't redirect to static pages. Redirecting to an html file rather than a php script isn't hard, but I think you are having more problems than just figuring out the redirect. Also, realize that the pages on this forum are not static files; rather, they are most likely html files with embedded PHP that the server parses before returning the file.
Ask questions. Seriously, we don't know what to help you with if we don't know what exactly it is that you don't know how to do.
If you don't know anything about how to make any parts of this program, then you are asking for a lot. I don't think anyone will design the entire project for you and then send you the source code.
If you are just hung up on some specifics, ask specific questions, such as: "How can I redirect out of a PHP script to another file on the site?"
If you tried getting Windows Media Player 10, I can understand why you're having problems since I don't believe that 10 is compatible with ME. Get Windows Media Player 9. It's compatible with ME and is better than 10 IMO.
Furthermore, if your system is having problems, you will want to fix it. What problems are you having with your system?
Download and run Killbox. Click the folder icon to browse to the file. After you have selected the file, select "Standard File Kill", and click the button with the red circle and white X. If that is unable to remove the file, repeat the process except put a checkmark in the "End Explorer Shell While Killing File" option. If it still can't remove the file, select "Delete on Reboot" and repeat the process. This last option will reboot your system, so make sure you've closed all applications that need to save data first.
After you have removed that file, try to delete the folder. If you have other files that give you that same problem, you will need to repeat the process for those as well.
I don't know the exact process for this, but one thing you might want to start reading up on is boot.ini. You will have to modify this file to add 98 to the boot options. I was unable to find examples of building a dual/multi-boot system without doing fresh installs, but I suppose that it is possible.
What advantage do you see by having the ability to boot into 98? If your system is capable of running XP, you should always run XP. 98 doesn't offer anything that XP isn't able to do.
I think the reason why people are not giving you answers is that it's not clear what your question is. We understand what you want to do, but we don't understand what you are having problems with.
It is working as expected. You created a simple console that operates on a command line. When a console application is loaded by double-clicking or otherwise running it from the GUI, Windows creates a temporary console, executes the program, and then closes the console when you press a key after the code has finished executing.
If you want the console to stay open after the program has executed so you can execute other programs, click "Start", click "Run...", type "cmd", click "OK", change the path to the folder where your program is located, and then execute the program.
