Posts by Coconut Monkey

I need to get a lot of files from the Windows 98 CD, which I do not have.

Why do you not have a Windows 98 setup CD? :confused:

P.S. I must be blind, I still can't see the Edit button, possibly because I use Firefox?

Nope, it isn't Firefox (unless you have a really old version). See here.

Windows 98SE comes with internet connection sharing, so there shouldn't be any need to use third party programs. Not having a Windows 98 box handy, I can't say with any certainty that it will work with your ADSL connection, but it's certainly worth a shot. A guide is attached below (by the way, the edit button is located at the bottom of each of your posts - it's the leftmost blue button).

How do I get internet connection sharing working over a network?

1. Here's an easy way. Go to the computer which will be connecting to the internet.
Win9x: Go to add/remove programs in control panel, windows setup, and install internet connection sharing from the network section.
WinXP: Go to control panel, network connections, right click the internet connection, and click properties. Go to advanced, and enable internet connection sharing.

2. Make sure the network is setup with TCP/IP. Still on the host PC.
Win9x: Go to control panel, network, properties of the network's TCP/IP (should have the name of your network card next to it)
WinXP: Go to control panel, network connections, properties of the LAN connection.
Make sure the IP number is set to 192.168.0.1, and the subnet mask is 255.255.255.0

3. Go to the same TCP/IP section as above with the other computers on the network. Set the IP addresses to something different each time (192.168.0.[something else]), but the subnet mask is always 255.255.255.0

Then, …

it's ok it's fixed now :)

Would you mind telling us how you fixed it? ;)

Nope. It has a 200Mhz base "fsb". Its operating frequency is probably 1800Mhz, which is what you get when you combine the fsb and the CPU's multiplier (200x9). However, the 2000Mhz you may see is probably the speed of the Hypertransport links that allow the components of your motherboard to communicate with each other (previously, an actual front side bus was used for this purpose).

Are you sure that's not the front side bus frequency you're reading DAA_dood? While A64 platforms use Hypertransport links for communication on the motherboard, they still have an fsb of sorts for determining the CPU frequency. Yours has an "fsb" of 200Mhz. It's impossible for the CPU itself to run at 200Mhz with that kind of setup!

Zalakes, did you read the guide I posted?

I assume this is a new hard drive you've rigged up, so in order to access it you need to create a partition which you then format. The link above contains detailed instructions on how to do this in Windows XP. ;)

jfountain02 is on the right track. ;)

See here.

DAA_dood, there are many Athlon 64 CPUs and variants of particular models, but none of them run at 2.8Ghz! As far as I can see, the highest clocked of the single core CPUs is 2.4Ghz. Perhaps you were looking at the 2800+?

Athlon64s have "Hypertransport" links on the motherboard for communication between components. However, there is an fsb of sorts for determining the CPU's operating frequency.

The motherboard has an integrated sound card, so you don't need to buy a separate card, but you may want to buy one in the near future if the onboard solution fails to deliver decent audio to your ears. ;)

Read my article on the subject (the cooling discussion applies to all CPUs).

You might want to look around some review sites to get an up-to-date view of CPU coolers.

Thanks Coconut Monkey!

I only wish my SATA experience was giving me at least equal performance with my PATA drive!

What are you using to gauge performance?

1. What advantage is there then in adding a SATA drive to a MOB that doesn't have NATIVE SATA functionality? It sounds like a waste of money if the SATA DRIVE'S performance is going to be no better than the performance of the ATA HD on the IDE bus??

Well, current SATA1 hard drives aren't that much faster than PATA drives, so performance isn't really an issue no matter what kind of controller you have. The main drawcards are smaller cables and no jumper nonsense to worry about. SATA2 is up and about though.

2.Without accessability to the SATA drive from the BIOS SETUP, how does one integrate it into the BOOT SEQUENCE?

There should be an option in your BIOS along the lines of "Boot from : Floppy/CD,DVD/HDD-0/Boot add-in card" which will enable your system to boot from drives attached to the PCI controller.

I want my diplay to show on both the tv and monitor from 1 graphics card and onboard card is this possible.............?

See my article on the subject.

You are stressing the monitor more by running it at a higher refresh rate, but if it's a supported rate at that particular resolution (see manual) then I wouldn't worry too much. If you're paranoid then just stick with 85Hz which still produces a nice solid image.

Sorry Stretch, but.....

Keep it legal
Keep it clean and do not post pornographic material or link to it. In addition, do not post anything warez relaetd or related to other illegal acts. This includes tech support troubleshooting pirated software or P2P programs (i.e. Gnutella, Kazaa) used to obtain pirated software. Exceptions are helping to remove spyware or browser hijacks (that may or may not be related to illegal material) from a computer.

I'm afraid I have to lock this thread.

I haven't heard of any socket 478 boards with PCI-E slots - only the newer 775 boards.

I wouldn't worry too much about the dual channel - it won't make much of a difference. Buy another stick later on and enjoy the performance increase!

What PSU are you planning to buy? Make sure it's decent - Antec, Topower, Aopen, OCZ come heavily recommended, although there are other decent brands out there. Generic brands are a risky business, and I suggest you steer clear!

As far as I know, a PCI add-on card does not "integrate" itself with your BIOS, so the BIOS will not recognise drives attached to it during POST (only drives plugged into controllers integrated into the motherboard).

What are you using to gauge the drive's performance? If you're transferring data between drives, note that the speeds will be limited by the slowest drive! Also, the PCI controller has to share the PCI-bus bandwidth with however many other cards are installed.

Hmmm. Have you looked into alternative setups crab? Say something from AMD? The socket 478 platform you've chosen there is being phased out, although it still offers a decently performing platform. Plus, I would recommend 1 stick of 512Mb for the first setup, with a mind to add another later (it won't impact on performance much).

Have you also considered a new case/PSU? You may have a non-standard enclosure there which might not accept a new board. A gruntier, brand name PSU (Power Supply Unit) may also be required to power your new rig.

Should be a standard cable, but the techs should know what's what.

Unless you're planning to replace the cable yourself.....which isn't recommended!

Replacing the image cable can be quite costly. As an example, my 17" CRT had the same problem. I was quoted $110 (AUS) for a replacement cable. A new monitor would cost me $200.

Considering you have a larger screen, it may be worth the price, but it's up to you to do the math. I suggest you call up some repair stores or perhaps even find one that offers free evaluations/quotes.

You have a SATA hard drive and a non-native SATA controller. Thus, Windows requires drivers for the SATA controller before it can see your hard drive. You need to boot off the Windows XP install CD (as you were probably doing before) and press F6 when prompted (to install drivers for IDE/SCSI controllers). Then use the floppy disk when asked for the drivers later.

NOTE: make sure the hard drive is plugged into the VIA SATA controller. Your board may have 2 controllers - a VIA one and a Promise or Silicon Image one, each capable of supporting 2 drives.

I suggest you grab your motherboard manual and check out the Memory configurations section, notably the Recommended memory configurations table.

i am getting the sli board because in about a year i would like to get two 6800 ultras mostly i will be using it for games like half life2, doom 3 and call of duty to name just a few

I wouldn't count on that line of upgrade too much. The 6800 Ultra will be long obsolete by that time and you may not find discounted models on the shelves either.

Of course, new chipsets with SLI will be out and about for the around the same price as the 6800 Ultras are today, so what am I complaining about?
(but I would recommend a 6600GT over the X700 - just make sure you buy a semi-decent brand)

I'm not so sure about those Jeantech PSUs Janine - in the brief search I made it appears they are classed more as generic power supplies, although there were no complaints as such. Do you have any review links handy?

See here for tips. If you have further questions, please post them here.

I have to wonder - when reinstalling Windows, do you install the original version with no service packs slipstreamed in? After installation, do you connect to the internet before applying any updates, service packs or firewalls? An original, freshly installed copy of Windows XP connected to the internet is extremely vulnerable to all kinds of viruses, worms, hacks and malicious users. Make sure you're protected before establishing any kind of connection to the outside world!

In regards to your WMI corruptions issues, it appears there are some fixes you can try without having to reinstall Windows. Try the below links for guides:
http://msdn.microsoft.com/library/default.asp?url=/library/en-us/wmisdk/wmi/reinstalling_wmi.asp
http://www.jsifaq.com/SUBK/tip5200/rh5281.htm

Alternatively, flick through this Google search.

What you want to setup is an "ad-hoc" connection, provided both laptop wireless cards support the feature. Going off memory....disable any third party wireless setup utilities and just use the built-in Windows XP wireless configuration software (I am using SP2 in this guide by the way).

• Head into the properties of the wireless network connection.
• Click the Wireless Networks tab and then Add...
• Specify an SSID (this identifies your network).
• Choose some encryption if you want (you will need to pick out a "key" as a password into the network).
• Tick the "This is a computer-to-computer (ad-hoc) network" checkbox.
• Click OK.

Now, that should initialise the ad-hoc network. The other PC is supposed to automatically detect it, but if not, add it manually using the steps above.

The network setup wizard that comes with Windows XP offers no salvation? Try the manual setup guide quoted below, but before doing so can you please describe your network setup? Switches, modems, what connects to which, and so forth.

How do I get internet connection sharing working over a network?

1. Here's an easy way. Go to the computer which will be connecting to the internet.
Win9x: Go to add/remove programs in control panel, windows setup, and install internet connection sharing from the network section.
WinXP: Go to control panel, network connections, right click the internet connection, and click properties. Go to advanced, and enable internet connection sharing.

2. Make sure the network is setup with TCP/IP. Still on the host PC.
Win9x: Go to control panel, network, properties of the network's TCP/IP (should have the name of your network card next to it)
WinXP: Go to control panel, network connections, properties of the LAN connection.
Make sure the IP number is set to 192.168.0.1, and the subnet mask is 255.255.255.0

3. Go to the same TCP/IP section as above with the other computers on the network. Set the IP addresses to something different each time (192.168.0.[something else]), but the subnet mask is always 255.255.255.0

Then, staying in the TCP/IP properties, set the default gateway and DNS server to the IP of the HOST computer (make sure you click add in Win9x to add the IP to the list). …

If you've just bought a brand new router, followed the instructions for setting it up to the letter and it still remains in "diagnostic mode" despite what the manual may say (check out the troubleshooting section), then I'd be tempted to take it straight back where you bought it from!

I'm no expert in networking, but I'll endeavour to solve your problem.

First, some clarifications on your hardware setup.

• A wireless broadband isp? Do you have some kind of wireless access point to connect or a special modem?
• Is the dlink "switch" some kind of all-in-one setup? What model is it?
• Do both PCs connect to the "switch"? Cable or wireless?

Next, the network itself.

• How do the PCs connect to the network? Are they assigned IP addresses? Do you manually set them?
• What are the assigned IP addresses? What are the gateway entries? Is the gateway address the address of the "switch"?
• What happens exactly when you both try to connect to the same multiplayer games?

Some suggestions and questions:

• Buy some cheaper RAM (but stick with name brands!). The faster variety you have there won't make much of a difference in general usage and gaming.
• What do you plan to use the PC for?
• Why the SLI chipset? I see you're buying an ATI card which currently does not support any form of "SLI" (although this may change in future if ATI fulfills what has been reported recently).
• If you're going to buy a PSU, make sure you buy branded. A high wattage doesn't mean much on a generic PSU. They typically provide a lot less juice, and can sometimes give out if the strain is too much. It's better to go with a quality product to begin with. Antec, Topower and OCZ are recommended.
• Are you purchasing any other components besides the ones stated?

Try to put your 256mb back in your 3.2ghz pc to see if it still works.

Hmmm. I'd be checking the pins along the bottom of the RAM stick beforehand. Are any blackened/distinctly off-colour?

pc one is p four 3.2 ghz
pc two is celeron 500 mercury motherboard

ram is ddram

thanks

That doesn't sound right at all! I only know of a few motherboards released with DDR-RAM support for the socket 370 processor. A Celeron 500 PC will almost certainly come with SD-RAM - an older standard which is incompatible with DDR. If you've tried to jam a DDR stick into an SD-RAM slot, then you may well have fried both the RAM and the motherboard.

In future, make sure you know what kind of RAM your systems are currently using and what sticks and configurations they accept. Such information is available in your motherboard's manual or on the manufacturer's website.

Because you already spend all of your free time helping out, you then have to quit your job, kick everyone else out of your house, and accept the offer to Moderate.

:mrgreen::mrgreen:

It's so true!
:cry:

Could you please provide the specifications and/or model numbers of your PCs and RAM sticks sunandoghosh?

i've got a sempron processor which uses the 939 board.

Mmmm? A 939 Sempron? I have to wonder where you got one Janine - they're not available on the market yet, but there do seem to be a couple of "leaks".

by all means go for AMD athlon. by the way 939 is the socket type not 939 pins.

A "939 socket", supporting a CPU with 939 pins!

I think you missed something..... ;)

The K6-II CPUs were released in '98, while the original K6 model was introduced in '97. The final revision, the K6-III, was released in '99.

Getting on a bit. ;)

Windows will not recognise a hard drive larger than 127GB and always formats larger drives to this amount.

If you have at least Service Pack 1 for Windows XP or Service Pack 3 for 2000 then Windows should recognise and properly format drives larger than 127Gb. :-|

They are the same cable - 80 wire. The older, 40 wire cables are limited to ATA33 and below speeds.

Besides which, the BIOS update install should leave BIOS at default settings anyway.

I don't think it does - I seem to remember settings staying the same on boards I flash (when I forget to reset it). Plus, if memory serves me correctly, I had to perform a CMOS clear on my Abit IC7 before a new SATA option showed up.

I might do a BIOS update myself to confirm the above. :D

I prefer to do that before installing a BIOS update. If settings have been altered by the user, particularly if they relate to overclocking, it can screw up the update install. Resetting before updating eliminates that possibility.

Ah yes, I forgot about overclocking. :o

Before you install the BIOS update, reset CMOS.

Isn't that supposed to be done after the update? :confused:

I have looked into that also.
The 2 SATA II ports are controlled by the Nvidia nf3 chip and the
other 2 SATA I ports are controlled by the SIL 3512 chip.

So is your hard drive plugged into the NF3 controller or the Silicon Image controller? If it's hooked up to the SIL3512, then the NF3 RAID drivers will not work!

Also it takes a long time to read (open) the driver floppy in my old computer and it seems to install in no time at all in the new one,or is it the turtle vs the hare thing ???

I'm not sure how you're comparing the two. What performance measure are you using exactly?

Also, your motherboard looks like it has more than one SATA controller, with each controller chipset from a different manufacturer. Make sure you have the right drivers for the SATA controller you are attempting to use!

Something's not right with the driver install then! Remember - you must hit F6 when prompted during the Windows XP setup. Does Windows ask you for a driver disk? Are any drivers found and loaded from that disk?

Z80

Them buggers drive my Master System 2 and Game Gear! :lol:

Lots of reading and plenty of trial and error!

I am doing an IT course at university, but it deals in software planning, design and programming. All of my PC tech knowledge is self-taught. ;)

Maybe something like this?