Try a different media or another utility. DVD Shrink is freeware that will work, or you can get a free trial of DVDFab.
This is strange, this is the second thread that I've read this evening ragarding Nero 7.
Try a different media or another utility. DVD Shrink is freeware that will work, or you can get a free trial of DVDFab.
This is strange, this is the second thread that I've read this evening ragarding Nero 7.
the board's model no. is usually at the top of the first screen at boot time.
He needs the pin-out for the header, this is why he is trying to identify the board.
Your attachment is not legible, would you please just list the error code.
Hi Rocky, did someone disable you punctuation keys?
Let me see if I have this right, you have a notebook that the LCD quit working, so you connected a LCD monitor and are having problems getting it to work?
Specifically what GPU are you using, and how do you have it connect to the monitor?
Do not use alcohol or ammonia base products, these can yellow the plastic screen.
The key here is to recognize that the screen is made of soft plastic, this makes it easy to scratch so you need to use a soft lent free cloth. A mild soap solution can be used.
Personally I like the hands free technique, this involves a fire hose at ten paces.
You are not being real clear about what you want help with, but I'm guessing that your computer isn't running as fast as it did when it was new?
There are a number of things that will slow down your computer, not defragging it on a regualr basis, a lack of free space in the hdd, a virus and so on.
Have you defragged the hdd recently?
Do you know how much RAM and free space you have on you hdd?
Have you scanned for infections?
Some times the OS just starts getting buggy after a period of time. This is why a lot of people will keep all of their important files backed up so that they can just wipe the hdd and reinstall the OS and software for that brand new speed.
What have you done to try to correct this? Run scans for infections, defrag the hdd? How much RAM do you have and how much free space do you have on your hdd?
It is always helpful to include the make and model of your computer, or the make and model of the motherboard if it is a custom build.
To be honest I wouldn't invest any more money in a computer that old. You computer is old enough that things could start failing at any time. I would save up and build a new computer that uses some of the newer technology, like a PCI-E graphics card.
You have two problems going into replacing your motherboard, first is the possibility that you have infections on the hdd, and second is that you are going to have a potential big problem installing the new motherboard with the old hdd.
If you have infections they will be on the hard drive, if you are going to be installing this with another motherboard than what you are already using (this means the same chip set) it may be to you advantage to wipe the hdd and reinstall the OS. This will take care of two problems at the same time, it will get rid of the infections, and problem of installing a hdd with a new motherboard with a different chip set. The hdd has recognized the chip set and drivers from the old motherboard, and when you try to install it to another motherboard it confuses the heck out of it. Some times the hdd will recover, other times it will not. For the record...mine didn't survive.
You could download a utility like Everest Home edtion, this will not show the rpm of the fans, but will mirror the temperatures shown in you BIOS. It will also show the live voltages that your BIOS is showing.
If you know what the make and model or your computer you can always look up the specs. It may not mention the manufacturer but should list the output. The other option is to open the case and look and see what is printed on you PSU.
Here we go, are you the administrator of this forum ? If not keep your LOL's to yourself, Typical forum responce.
If the drive works with some media then all the posts about conncetion problems were a waist of time, my advice was sound and i get slatted for it.
I will lol when a different media works in the drive.
First of all, not being a moderator does not preclude my right to express my opinion. You expressed yours when you called Verbatim crap, I simply responded with not only my opinion but that of many others.
Secondly...if you had been reading the posts you would not have posted your faux paux, you also would have noticed that he did try other media with the same results.
My statement was not meant as a personal affront, and your response was not warranted.
btw...you misspelled response.:lol:
Disk fragmentation is one of the main causes of slow and unstable PC performance. Defragging a hdd is one of the most commonly suggested maintenance procedures.
As for it being harmful, it simply just isn't! Why would it be an option in your software if it were? I dare say that anyone who has lost their hdd because of defragging had an existing problem that would have caused the failure one way or another.
The optimum set up would be to have both hdds on the same IDE cable, the slower drive will dictate the speed of the devices set as master and slave.
Their ratings are from customers that are either pleased with the product and will praise it or p.oed because there was a problem or disappointment and they pan it.
Lite-On has mixed reviews, they have the fastest reading speed and enjoy one of the best reputations for their firmware. People seem to either love them or hate them.
I have a NEC 3550A that I like very much, unfortunately they're no longer available.
Samsung is another that has a solid reputation, and Newegg has this one on sale for $41.99 with free three day shipping. I would go for this one if I was in the market and couldn't afford a Plextor.
Without knowing what the error message is I shouldn't cast undo disparity on IE7, but... it is interesting the number of hits I found when I googled blue screen and IE7.
LOL did you read the posts in the thread?
My post above yours said I cleaned the lens already and it still didn't work. I suggest you read the whole thread to see where i'm at.
:lol: I love it! More times than not I have to wonder if the person responding to a question has completely read or understood the question.
anlogue ...your humble opinion is a stark minority in the world where quality is recognized. Verbatim and Taiyo Yuden are the two most recommended DVD medias by serious videophiles.
Kevin...what software were you using?
Why the need for this duplicitous charade?
but doesnt disk defrag fix things that dont need to be fixed
maui...you have 177 post and don't know about defragging your hdd?????:eek:
No. Defragging your hdd removes fragmented files from the contiguous files consolidating the system files and leaving you more usable space on the hdd. Information stored on the hdd is not placed in a nice neat and orderly manner, so you have these areas that need to be cleared.
If you have never defragged you hdd then you will notice an increase in performance. This needs to be done on a regular basis.
There are several things that could cause this to happen, one of the most common on computers that have been around for a while is overheating caused by dust and pet fur decreasing air circulation. If you have added RAM then you know how to get inside the case, take a can of air and blow it out. Check the intake openings to be sure that they aren't blocked.
It sounds like the CPU may be overheating, is the heat sink and fan seated properly on the CPU? If the heat sink has come loose from the CPU you should reapply the thermal compound.
$250. to change a $5.00 fan????? Did you ask them to call you back when they were off crack?
These instructions are for accessing the RAM, but will also give you access to the fans.
If you know how to use a volt meter check to be sure that there is voltage going to the fan that is not working. If you have voltage and the fan doesn't run the fun begins. You biggest problem here is going to be either getting gateway to sell you a fan or matching one up that will fit your specs.
Let us know how you are making out.
To connect the hdd as a slave drive you will need to change the jumper on the rear of the hdd from either cable select or master to slave. The flat ribbon cable that the master hdd is connected to is called an IDE calbe. You will want to connect the slave drive to the middle connector of the IDE cable that the master is connected to. The master hdd should have its jumper set to master.
If you would like to read about transferring information from one hdd to another read this.
ok, i used that magic partition and its crap! my whole harddrive got screwed up, i had to re-install everything. all my files and games and music and videos were gone!
so, i am screwed for that part. I am still on XP and I want to install Win2K Pro keeping XP as well!
i have no idea how to do that, and that M$ website that the person provided for me doesnt really work either.
so, does anyone have detailed, step-by-step instructions on how i can achieve this? thanks in advance!
The program isn't crap, but if you don't read and understand the instructions it can sure turn your project into crap. I personally know people that have had great results using either the Symantec or Acronis software.
As for the link that I provided, it works for me. Anyone else have trouble with it?
winme or win98s' bootdisk will recognize the ntfs.when you type in fdisk ,it will open and you chose 4 to view non dos partition ,you can even delete the partition and create a dos partition if you want to loose all data on disk,i know you don't want to do this though .if you download the xp floppys this will give you the option of using the xp recovery consol to replace the missing file ,i personally think your hdd is dead ,even though it shows in the bios.
missing hal.dll
http://www.computerhope.com/issues/ch000490.htmhttp://shanegfowler.wordpress.com/2007/01/10/missing-haldll-error-corrupt-bootini-file-quick-fix/
The flux field of the speaker shouldn't have effected anything physically on the drive, just the information magnetically loaded. If you wipe the drive you should be able to format, partition it, and install your OS. The NSA has been able to retrieve information that has been corrupted by magnets, in fact they suggest that the only sure way to render the hdd useless it to use a torch on it. I suspect a good ole sawzall would be just as effective.
It sounds like you have a missing or corrupted file. There are a couple of things that you can do, the first would be to try a last know good configuration, and if that fails you can use the CD to try and repair the operating system (XP).
From what you have written is doesn't sound like a hard drive problem, at least from what I've seen so far. If it is you still have options for retrieving the information on it. One of these options would be to install it as a slave drive in another computer and transfer the information to the master drive. After that you can transfer the information to CDs or DVDs.
btw...a PSU is the power supply.
Edit: It occurred to me that you may be new enough to this not to recognize that the print in the blue is a link that will take you to instructions for the last known good configuration, just click on it.
Do you have another computer that you can try the burner in?
Just because the the motherboard is new doesn't mean that the battery has to be good. Stranger things have happened.
Was this fan a case fan or the one on the CPU heat sink?
When the fan died did the computer shut down?
Does the fan in the PSU run? Does the fan on the CPU heat sink run? Are the LEDs on the motherboard or case on?
You wrote that the computer boots up to the operating system, is this the XP logo that you are referring to? What happens after that?
Do you know the difference between DVD-R and DVD+R? They are two different incompatible kinds of recordable DVDs.
Except for the newest drives, usually a drive which takes one type can't take the other.
Wrong! There are two different types of DVD media, not DVDs, they are compatible with most all machines now. Some of the older machines still have problems reading DVD+R which was the second media to hit the market after DVD-R. The problem most people have with DVD media today is that the cheaper media has a tendency to fail more often.
Most people recognize Taiyo Yuden and Verbatim as the two best DVD media on the market today, and Mystic-g is using one of those. Mystic-g's Samsung is new enough that there shouldn't be any problem using either type of media.
Mystic-g...no you don't need to boot with the disc in the drive. Perhaps there is some confusion here regarding the IDE calbe. This is what TT4Titans was referring to as a ribbon cable. There are three connectors on this cable, two of the connector are close together, these are the connector that plug into the drives. The middle connector of these is for connecting a slave drive. If this cable is installed backwards it will not work.
The DVD burner is a plug and play device and you shouldn't normally need to enable it in the BIOS, but it can be disabled in the BIOS and not work, so it …
Hi nm1234, and welcome to Dani Web.
I know that the people at this site are good, but we are not psychic. :rolleyes:
Care to share with us what make and model your computer is????
Usually beep codes come from the motherboard, look in you user's guide and see what is written regarding this. If you don't have the user's guide you can either google for it or provide us with enough information to be able to help you.
It could be that you CMOS battery needs replacing.
It would help a great deal if you would include the make and model of your motherboard, CPU, and RAM.
Are you sure that your RAM is compatible with your motherboard?
The DMA is the default setting and is normal.
Please answer my question. This could just be a connection problem. As I said above, if you are sharing a IDE cable the second device will have to be set up as a slave drive. This means setting the jumper and enabling it in the BIOS if it doesn't do it automatically. If you connect the IDE ends backwards it will not work.
Also look in the BIOS to see that it is enabled there.
How do you have the drive connected, is it on a IDE cable by itself? If it is the second device on a IDE cable you will need to make it a slave drive.
The easy solution? Wipe the drive and start over.
Save your money, let go of the past and plan for the future build.
Splice wire in to lengthen them, either solder them or use butt crimp connectors. The solder connection would be best, be sure to either use shrink tube or tape to coover joints.
You will more than likely need to reinstall the OS. The information on the hdd is "writen" to it magnetically, by placing the magnet on the laptop may have damaged the content of the hdd.
Does this only happen with DVD-R?
Does this disc play in other machines?
Is this an encrypted movie that you are trying to view?
The compaq logo is in the BIOS, have you tried clearing the CMOS? Is your date and time correct?
Have you scanned for bugs? Most manufacturers have a downloadable diagnostic tool that you make a CD from and boot with it to check out your hdd. If you know what hdd you have try that.
yeah oh yeah if your copy of windows is OEM (came witgh your PC) then changng the cpu, motherboard or primray HDD will render it illegal and it may fail product activation
http://www.microsoft.com/genuine/downloads/FAQ.aspx
The genuine validation process will collect information about your system to determine if your Microsoft software is genuine. The validation tools do not collect your name, address, e-mail address, or any other information that Microsoft will use to identify you or contact you. The tools collect such information as:
* Computer make and model
* Version information for the operating system and software using Genuine Advantage
* Region and language setting
* A unique number assigned to your computer by the tools (Globally Unique Identifier or GUID)
* Product ID and product key
* BIOS name, revision number, and revision date
* Volume serial number
* Office product key (if validating Office)
In addition to the configuration information above, status information such as the following is also transferred:
* Whether the installation was successful
* The result of the validation check
As standard procedure, your Internet Protocol (IP) address is temporarily logged when your computer connects to a genuine validation website or server. These logs are routinely deleted.
You not only need a PSU with a 24 pin connector, you are going to also need one that has the 12V 4pin connector for the CPU. If you look at your motherboard there is a square four pin connector just off of the corner of the PCU. Not having the proper PSU connections could also explain why you are having problems.
Hi Karen, I'm glad to hear that you have it working again. After not hearing back I had thought perhaps it had become ammo for the trebuchet.
Yes, you will need to place the second OS on a separate partition. You can either wipe the dirve and then reformat and partition the hdd, or use a utility like Symantec's Partition Magic or Acronis's Partition manager to create the second partition.
This article explains it well.
Have you run scans for infections?