What are your voltages looking like?
What are your voltages looking like?
Nope. The 100 gubbies is the unformated raw space. The 95 is the space after the formatting has been added. The rest of that is the format itself - sector headers, file tables, and directories.
Yep, same thing, different language.
Have you run scans for infections?
60 to 70 degrees C is like 140 to 158 degrees F, your computer should be shutting down a lot at those temperatures. I don't know about fanspeed, but I have seen utilities like this produce bad inaccurate readings. Go into the BIOS and see what the temperatures are reading. You could also download Everest Home Editon which will display what the BIOS is reading, this will allow you to read the temperature without entering the BIOS.
Have you tried cleaning it out yet? If you are comfortable disassembling the laptop to clean it you can google for instructions for your make and model.
Do you have another monitor you could try, or another computer that you could try the monitor on?
There are several things that can cause over heating, but the easiest to check for is dust and pet fur impeding the air circulation. Buy a can of compressed air and blow out the computer. Another thing to look for is that the fans are running, case fan, CPU heat sink fan...
With temperatures that high I'm surprised you computer isn't shutting down.
If you are using Outlook Express go to tools, choose address book, go to file and choose export, save this to My Documents. You can use a program like Nero to transfer this to a CD or if you are familiar with transferring files from one hdd to another you can do that.
Here is an article that my help.
Shouldn't be a problem according to Foxconn.
Have you scanned for bugs?
I would run AVG, Spybot Search and destroy, Adaware, and Asquared, and it would be most effective if you did this in safe mode.
btw...all of the above are free downloads.
nutral...I wasn't asking you, my question was for truephobia.
You would be better served if you posted your own thread, more people would see it. What you are doing here is hijacking the thread...not cool.
Edited...didn't see you other post, this is a good example why double posting is a poor idea.
Have you tried changing the battery?
You could try a last good configuration. You could also take the hdd and install it as a slave drive in another computer and save you files to a CD or DVD and then wipe the drive and start over.
I would be interested to know exactly what the problem was with the BIOS. Usually clearing the CMOS or in a worse case scenario flashing the BIOS will take care of any problems with it. I've never heard of having to replace the EEPROM, but I suppose anything is possible.
Best of luck
Intel only shows 2 PCI slots and one PCI-E X1 slot, nothing is said about the PCI-E X16. There may be using this board for other model that do offer the X16.
What motherboard are you using?
Taht is part of window media player, try uninstalling the windows media player and see if this changes things. If not start scanning for the nasties.
Did you set this up as a slave to the hdd that was in there first, and if you did have you set the jumper to the slave setting and the other to master?
Because the computer will work without a problem after a restart I don't think it's the PSU.
Has this problem just started recently? If so try a last good configuration.
I would be interested in seeing what is showing up in the event viewer at those times.
Hi BarbE, and welcome to Dani Web.
It would help if you were to tell us what operating system you are using.
You may need to set the CD-ROM as the first boot device in order to use the recovery disc.
If the video was corrupted it would either display pixelation or not work at all.
Is the computer shutting down or is just the DVD? Does this happen with any other DVDs? Will this DVD play in another machine? Is this a stamped DVD or a burned copy?
It might just be that your computer has better taste than you.:lol:
Let's see if I can unscramble your puzzle, are you asking for example if you had a 100GB hdd but it only shows as being 95GB? If this is the case it is normal, the hdd retains a space/cache in order to move information around.
1GB in single channel will be better than two 256MB modules in dual channel.
What I was suggesting was to see if you can find another module to match the one your friend is offering you and run the two 1GB modules in dual channel. Then you could sell the other 256MB modules.
What kind of installation CD did she use? Is it still in the drive?
Did you install the drivers for the motherboard?
Are you using the onboard video? I don't have time at the moment to download your manual, so do us a favor and see what you have for default setting in the BIOS for the onboard video vs a PCI or PCI-E baord. This board should be new enough not to have a jumper on the motherboard, but it might be worth looking just to be sure.
What make and model are you RAM modules? Did you check to be sure that they were going to be compatible with that board? ASUS can be picky about what RAM it like.
Go back and do a minimal build, add each component till you have the problem. Make sure you RAM is properly seated.
Your problem was there before you installed Vista. Vista is a major resource hog, it is suggested that you have a minimum of 1GB or RAM.
Most BIOS have a limit of 137GB. If you are using XP with SP2 all you should need to do is partition the full capacity while installing the OS. You could also create a couple partitions, this has the advantage that if you have you OS on a separate from you files you can reformat the partition with you OS without loosing any of you files.
Both SP1 and SP2 incorporate a 48 bit LBA which enable the recognition of the larger hdd, here's a good article if you want more information on it.
Hello, I am wondering if it is a good idea to upgrade my ram. Right now I have dual channel 2x256. My friend might give me a 1gb stick. I have another 2 banks on my mobo. Should I upgrade and add another gig or will it no longer be dual channel?
Hi runcmd3, welcome to Dani Web.
If you add the one 1GB module you will not be able to run in dual mode. Dual mode requires two modules with the exact same specs, this includes the size of the module.
You could see if you can find another module to match the 1GB module your friend has given you, you should be able to get the make and model from the information on the module.
Here are to links that may help you out.
- Overclocking, Stress Testing & Benchmarking Tools
http://forums.amd.com/index.php?showtopic=65314
- Overclocking Guide and Links
http://forums.amd.com/index.php?showtopic=67749
I did a short look for information regarding this and didn't find anything definitive. What does seem to be a common thread though is the BIOS, you might try clearing the CMOS. It has also been suggested that an update of the BIOS may help.
With all the problems that I've read about IE7 I wouldn't be surprised that it is involved. You might try uninstalling it and going back to IE6, or better yet try Firefox.
To uninstall Internet Explorer 7 to return to Internet Explorer 6 on Windows XP
1. Click "Start," and then click "Control Panel."
2. Click "Add or Remove Programs."
3. Check "Show Updates" at the top of the dialog box.
4. Scroll down the list and highlight the version of Internet Explorer 7 that you are running, and then click "Change/Remove." (If you are running Internet Explorer 7 Beta 2 Preview — March 20 or later, it is not necessary to check "Show Updates.")
5. Select the appropriate version of Internet Explorer 7 for your operating system.
What you are describing sounds like a poor connection. Are there any burn marks on the copper tabs of the boards that you have used?
It might also be worth looking a the different rail voltages with a DMM.
It's a courtesy to answer the people that are trying to help you.
You may have exceeded the capacity of the slots that you installed the 512MB modules in. A lot of motherboards that ran on PC100 and PC133 had a maximum capacity of 256 in each slot.
What is the motherboard?
Hi Floppylugs,
I'm glad to hear that you have fallen into such good fortune, it restores your belief in humanity when this sort of help occurs. Usually by time I've done my shopping and returned to my rural home I've had my fill of humanity.:lol:
I apologize if I come across as imposing, it is unintentional. It sounds like the relationship I had with my father when I was growing up. When he retired he was chief of staff of the Anesthesiology department at a campus in the University of California system, your description matches my attitude when conversing with him.
That's quite a transition going from a police officer to a physician, and I'm assuming a specialization in Oncology since you are with the National Collaborating Centre in Cardif.
Best,
Dan
It's too late to edit my last post so I will add this here.
The reason that I suggested replacing the battery wasn't really related to your current problem, it was more of an observation that at three years it should be replaced just for general principals, after all you did have the case open already.
The person who told you that the battery would only effect the date and time obviously forgot, or didn't know that if the battery goes it will also reset your BIOS to their default settings. There are some settings like enabling USB devices that would make you wonder what was wrong.
Have you looked in the BIOS to see if the USB keyboard feature has been disabled?
btw...your keyboard will not work in the BIOS, you have to use the F keys, up and down keys, + or - keys, and let's not forget the enter and esq keys.
Did you ever get back to the people at overclock.net with what version you are using?
For those of you reading this...there were problems with versions earlier than 1.77 which would result in showing an error code 57, apparently they were able to resolve this in later versions.
hi Cabman5, and welcome to Dani Web.
First off you want to have the exact same specs when running in dual channel. I would go with option C, purchase two more of the same modules that you have in there now.
There are arguments for using two 1GB modules rather than four 512MB, the larger modules are reputed to actually be faster. So if you are looking for the best performance then you may want to consider selling your 512MB modules and invest in the two 1GB modules.
As for the DDR2 800, not knowing what your motherboard is I can't help you out there. If you wish to stick with Corsair go to their home page and use their configurator to see what they will suggest for your motherboard.
I'm glad that you have found some local help, it's frustrating to be a half world apart and try to guess what could be a half dozen things.
Replacing the battery would do two things, other than the obvious of providing a new battery it would also clear the CMOS taking the BIOS back to their default settings. It's the equivalent of take two aspirin and call me in the morning.
It is gratifying to hear that he thinks the same as I do in regards to the computer's problem, a loose connection or the video/graphics card.
Let us know how it turns out.
One last post and then I have to go earn my keep.
The CMOS battery is located on the motherboard, it is about 3/4 of an inch in diameter, silver in color, and should be easy to see. It should be the only bright round silver item on the motherboard.
Do you have a PS2 keyboard that you could try?
Bell laboratories have used a technique for a couple of decades, occasionally there will be a connectivity problem, by removing the card and reinstalling it a couple of time you will score the surfaces where the motherboard and the card mate. Try it on your video card.
One other thing you could try is to test the output of the PSU. If you have a voltage meter and know how to use it try this, with the PSU unplugged disconnect the 20 pin PSU connector from the motherboard. You will need a short piece of wire, place it in the socket of the green wire, and the other end in the socket of any black (negative) wire. Plug the PSU back in and your PSU should now be on, the fan inside of it should be spinning. To read the different rail voltages place one of the lead from the volt meter in the socket of a black wire and use the other lead to take readings from the other colored wires.
Color code:
Orange +3.3 VDC
Red +5.0 VDC
Yellow +12 …
Hello again,
There are some other things we can try if you're up for it. The first thing to try is to observe the LED on the keyboard, there is a built in diagnostic tool that uses the LEDs. When the computer is first powered up there should be one or a couple of quick blinks of the LED and another after a few seconds. If the second one doesn't happen this mean that there has been a failure in the POST.
Another thing to try would be to replace the CMOS battery on the motherboard. Unless you have already replaced it you should have replace it by now anyway.
My first inclination here was that you have a bad video card, try removing and re-seating it a couple of times. You can identify the video card from the rear of the computer where the monitor is attached. You will also need to remove the screw that is holding the card in place.
One last thing to try, if you have more than one module of RAM try removing one and restart the computer. If that works then you have a bad module, if not replace the module and remove the second one and try again.
When you open the page to troubleshooting dead machines there is a "read me" article titled "My PC won't start-read this first!". This may have some information that you could benefit from.
Let us know how it goes.
Hi Loppylugs,
HP computers should have a beep code in the BIOS which will beep in a specific pattern if there is a failure in the POST and another pattern if it passes the POST. These patterns will vary depending on the model and its BIOS. If you let me know what the model of your HP is I will provide you with the beep codes.
Your failure could be the CPU, motherboard, RAM, HDD, or your video card. Or it could be a loose connection. This is why most repairs are made by replacing parts until they have a repair.
It is rather amazing how much and what can accumulate inside your computer. Between having two indoor cats and a wood stove that adds dust I need to clean my computer a couple times during the winter. I'm thinking of adding a filter in front of the intake fan.
Dust bunnies are a small problem, and hares are definitely worse. Just be glad that you don't have one of these.
Hi Loppylugs, and welcome to Dani Web.
Does the power go off completely or do the fans or LEDs continue?
If the power goes off entirely this could be a case of over heating. You have told us that the computer had dust bunnies inside, if the heat sink and fan assembly are full of dust the CPU could be over heating. There is a thermistor which reads this temperature, when it exceeds its set point it will shut the computer down.
If the computer isn't shutting down completely please tell us what is still running. Are the fans still running, both case and HSF.? Does you CD-ROM open? Are there any LEDs lit?
A computer of threes years of age is still within its life span, the question becomes how much of your time are you willing to contribute to its repair. You can take the hard drive out and install it in another machine as a slave and retrieve the information on it.
Did you try another monitor?
Go to the task manager and see what is running.
No, to run in dual channel both modules will have to be the same speed and amount.
I definitely would go for the 1GB module if given the choice between the two. If you haven't purchased the module buy one form a major manufacturer like Crucial, if you decide later to purchase another module to run dual channel you will have a better shot at getting a module which will match the specs of you first 1GB module.
jake...if Crucial lists it as compatible with your computer you can take it to the bank.
Just to make sure that you didn't list it being the C or MCE model I checked them as well...they're all capable of using PC6400.