Posts by alc6379

how to ask a question that includes your os type and other relevant information

You're probably going to have to get actual Windows installation CDs from your PC manufacturer. It's a sad fact in life that sometimes the restore utilities included with modern PCs don't work, and you're forced to do a standard OS reinstallation, using the media provided by your PC vendor.

System Idle process is OK to take up 99-100% of CPU time. That's the process that takes up time when no one else is doing anything. As far as the others, you probably want to run some spyware and virus scans. If those turn up anything, feel free to post for help in the Spyware forum on this very site.

Really, campkev's answer is the best one to give-- just install it, and don't worry about it. There's really no point in asking "why?" on this one, just give it a shot, and see what happens.

Let's not dig up 2.5 year old threads. Closing thread-- please open a new thread to discuss your issue.

Locate the Clear CMOS jumper on the motherboard. Pull the AC power from the system, and then pull this jumper off for 25-30 seconds. That will reset your BIOS defaults, including your memory timings.

From there, you should be good to go. If you change any BIOS settings that cause your system to not boot, this should resolve any such issues.

Take the card, and look at the chips on it. It might tell you what chipset is used for the USB card. Simply typing those model numbers into Google might get you a driver that will work.

Sometimes it's just a screw. Sometimes it's a metal coil that holds it together. The only way to really tell is pop off the hinge covers and check it out.

Usually, the hinge covers can just be pried off with a flat bladed screw driver, or similar, but you won't know until you've popped those hinge covers off.

wouldn't i just need to change the inverter not the whole screen

You could do that, sure.

Some laptops have an all-inclusive LCD unit. Often times, disassembling the LCD portion of the device will damage the unit.

If you feel comfortable doing that, cool, but I would suggest simply replacing the whole LCD unit.

Nope. MS doesn't distribute that theme for anything but MCE. If they did, that'd just be one less reason for people to buy a system with MCE on it, as opposed to XP Home.

ip addy 192.168.1.100
gateway 192.168.1.1

thanks for your help in advance

This is on the second computer?

If you click on Start -> Run, then type in COMMAND, you'll get a command prompt.

From there, type in ping 192.168.1.1 , and then hit enter. See if you get any responses.

Man, this stuff is a load.

I used to work in a cemetary, and folks came out at night all the time to take pictures of this junk. Little did most of them know, we polished headstones, or that dust can linger in the air for quite some time. I always get a chuckle when I see these things.

I'm not some skeptic, mind you, but this stuff's just silly.

This looks like the sort of thing i need!!!! am trying a download monitor "Bandwidth Monitor Pro" which came recomended, but doesnt change much. This qos is what i need to give my game priority over downloads. any idea where we can find it?

cheers

QoS is something you'd have to use Linux or a BSD for. Basically, you replace your router with a PC that has 2 NICs in it. One end connects to the LAN, and the other one connects to the Internet. You configure this machine to route packets much like your previous router.

...But with one exception. In Linux, you'd check out this HOWTO:
http://www.opalsoft.net/qos/DS.htm

In a BSD, you could use ALTQ, which isn't all that difficult. I'm at a loss to find a good howto on that tool, but if you decided to go that route, the manual (man)pages that are included with the BSD flavor you choose should guide you right through.

Doing this takes a litle bit of know-how, but once it's set up, you don't have to touch it anymore, unless it's to tweak some bandwidth, or to temporarily disable it. Once it's all set up, it should act just like your old router, but it will have a capability to do QoS filtering.

IPcop has a nice installation and administration set up (works like most routers' web based interfaces), and it has rudimentary QoS features. If you know what ports are being used, …

LCD could very well be bad. Sometimes, you can pull off the plastic strip above the keyboard, and reseat the LCD cable, but it's not always possible.

It all depends on what you're doing.

If you're gaming, depends on the game. If you're doing heavy video/photo editing, it might make a difference. But, truth be told, no matter what you do RAM-wise on that system, you're probably not going to notice it. It still takes a LOT of stuff to fill up 1GB of RAM.

Does the card itself have headers for front panel audio? Most cards do. You'd have to find the right cables on your case to plug into those ports-- they're usually labelled appropriately.

That might be a buggy driver, or something. All of this was connected to the USB card you just inserted?

Keep in mind, you should probably leave your mouse and other non-USB 2.0 devices on the old USB bus, because they'll cause the other ports to run at USB1.1 speeds, too.

Buy a 2-port IDE cable, and let one "hang free" temporarily. Just because you only have 1 bay does not mean you can't use 2 drives.

It's kind of "ghetto", but it will work in a pinch.

So, the wireless card does or does not see the WAP?

If it's not seeing it, there's a problem there-- could be interference, could be a bad card/antenna connection.

If it is seeing it, do you have any firewalls installed, like Norton or McAfee? If so, uninstall them, and see what we get from there.

on the second computer, while connected to router:

Click on Start -> Run and type winipcfg

Please tell us what it says for the system's IP address and default gateway.

You'll have to find out where the clear CMOS jumper, or the CMOS battery is located, and pull that out in order to clear the passwords.

But, for the clean1k tool, use this link:

http://support.dell.com/support/topics/global.aspx/support/kb/en/document?dn=1026413

That talks about it in some detail. You should be able to download the tool from that website.

You can disable the touchpad by going into device manager(Start->Run->devmgmt.msc). In there you look for Mice and other pointing devices you double click on your touchpad and on the new window that pops up at the bottom there's a drop down menu where you can choose to disable the touchpad. Apply all the changes and that's it.

Thing is, though, the user may still have a need for the touchpad. They might just want it to be less sensitive.

You might have to try re-doing the whole installation. Previously, had you disconnected all peripheral devices from your system? What kind of system do you have?

There are ways to fix this, but they require the Windows XP disc.

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/307545/en-us

You'll have to find or borrow one in order to do it. Further, if this fix didn't work, you'd need to locate a disc still, because your next step is to reinstall Windows.

Are you sure you'd look past the Treo, it does run on Mobile Windows now, you know that?

True.

Even still, though, it doesn't have the WiFi you need.

Great! Thanks for posting back!

...I'd definitely say go for the PPC model.

If you're developing mobile .NET applications, that's your best thing. Had you mentioned the .NET part initially, I'd have told you to completely look past the Treo entirely.

You can probably just try copying them to the hard drive and launching them. That's how a well-behaved Mac application should work. If you get errors or something, you'll likely have to install the program from the original media, because the installer might need to place extensions in a folder, or something.

That's actually a tough question to answer. I can tell you, though, that Fedora and RedHat will likely be the same. You will probably have to manually configure them via the ifconfig command, rather than using the GUI tools, as they usually only support one address per interface.

I tried going through the source code for both FreeBSD and Linux, but really didn't find a way to go. Perhaps this would be a great question to pose to each the Linux and FreeBSD kernel developers' Network mailing lists?

This is how to create your own bare-bones Linux distribution from scratch:

http://gok.customer.netspace.net.au/power2bash/buildMin/buildMin.html

There are also things like BYOLinux and Linux from Scratch that guide you, too. But, don't think for a second that building your own distro is not a big undertaking. You will have to make all of the init scripts, all of the packages, everything that the system needs to be installed, bootable, and functional. I usually recommend folks just stick with a distro they like, and customize it to their needs. There are ways with many distros to install additional packages at install time, or you can hack out the installer scripts to do it yourself.

Mono is a .NET programming alternative for Linux.

http://www.mono-project.com/Main_Page

But, there are tons of distros out there. If you like the ease of use of RedHat or SuSE, why not stick with those until you are more comfortable? Those still offer you just as much "under the hood" as Slackware can, but they hold your hand more, which can often keep you from wrecking your system config.

Thats what the problem is, i am trying to learn how to set up a network. I find it funny that nobody can give me the basics like how to make 2 computers talk to eachother or set one computer up as a server and the other as a client.

-Fasola

People can, trust me. But, I'm asking why should effort be duplicated, here. Even within your small examples, there are caveats, and those have been covered in books or other resources.

Via a quick Google search, I'll direct you to these pages:

http://www.johnscloset.net/primer/
http://compnetworking.about.com/od/homenetworking/
http://arstechnica.com/guide/networking/installation-1.html

...and finally, from Microsoft:
Download the Home Networking Guide

Looks pretty promising. I know we're here to help people learn and fix their issues, but it's unfair to ask the people providing the help to regurgitate things that are covered to the n'th degree elsewhere, and in more detail than practical on a forum. Try reading the pages I supplied, and if you have a specific question, then why not ask us to clarify that particular point?

Empower yourself via search engines to locate this knowledge. In doing so, you gain more skill than what we could teach you.

Follow me?

That was the easy way to do it.

Absolutely. That is probably the easiest way to do it. Here's my thing, though:

What if you happened to reinstall the OS on one of those machines, or change a config? If you reserved the address on the DHCP server, you'd be hands-off on the TCP/IP configuration on that system. If you ever needed to change that IP address, you could do so server-side, and push through an IP address lease expiration.

It's some work on the front end, but it makes life a little easier on the back end. Both results are equally valid, though. Great job!

EW....

Man, you're really overcomplicating things. Maybe it's because you didn't tell what all you were doing on this network.

Why do you need seperate subnets, anyways? The machines on the .0.x network are going to be a pain to get working at all with port forwarding. I had assumed since these are on a seperate subnet, you wouldn't need to access them.

If you need to access them, why not set up a bridge, and put the machines on the same subnet? Or, if you're using Windows XP, you can assign 2 IP addresses. The machines that need to access the "experimental" network can simply have 2 IP addresses, and access anything they want.

What is your goal with the two disparate networks? Are you trying to limit broadcasting, or conserve main LAN bandwidth? The only way to do without NAT is to implement a router like a Linux/BSD box, and set static routes to the experimental network. That, though, would mean that you'd have to figure out how to get the other LAN hosts to recognize that gateway. You can do that through the Advanced TCP/IP properties of an adapter in Windows XP/2k, or you can use the route command to statically set one in Linux.

Probably need to take it back to Toshiba. It could be anything from the video card, the LCD cable, the inverter, or even a small break in the LCD screen somewhere. Usually, this stuff is a hardware issue, and isn't caused by someone monkeying around in Windows.

Probably killed your backlight. If that's the case, you're probably looking at buying yet another LCD screen...

I wouldn't.

Unless you know what you're doing, CRT monitors can be VERY dangerous, with high voltages stored for long periods of time in them. Best thing to do is just send it to a recycling center that can deal with the phosphorus inside of the unit. It'll cost too much to send it to a repair shop, even.

If you got those colors right off the bat, I'd suspect a bad/incompatible video card, or it was improperly seated. Most motherboards disable the onboard video when you install a PCI/AGP video card, too.

Normally, when you install the new card, you should at least see the BIOS screens, and Windows might look odd at first, being in 640x480 with 16 colors. From there, though, you can add the drivers in, and get running properly.

Let me ask you this:

What is GAST, and why exactly would you want to do what you're asking?

I'm not entirely up on this topic, but I'm sure with more information, others may help, or perhaps I can BS you an answer ;)

If it says USB 2.0, you should be able to do it. However, I've forgotten what the max transfer speed on the PCI bus is. If you're just talking about using USB hard drives and the ilk with the system, you should be in good shape. That card will be as close to "real" USB 2.0 speeds that system will likely ever see.

You will have to install a driver in ME, and possibly even XP, but that shouldn't be too much of a problem, there-- I've installed USB 2.0 drivers on 98 machines where I was using a newer motherboard.

I've got the larger-in-size 2.5" 40GB drive from Seagate. I LOVE it. It's powered off the USB bus, so it's like a big thumbdrive. It costs a bit more at $100-120 US, but dollars to data it's a better deal than the pocket drive.

Sounds like you're good to go. Late in life, the 4100 systems shipped with XP, but I don't know if there was a BIOS upgrade that needed to be done or not.

You can try something like SCANDISK in Windows 98/ME, or CHKDSK in XP/2k to try to fix the file. But, if the media in the floppy is damaged, the file is going to be unrecoverable.

The only other option would be to check a place like DriveSavers, that could recover your data from the disk, but if you can't afford software to do it, those guys are going to be out of your range, too...

These days, a 1 year old computer is even considered old. HP has used 30 and 90 day warranties for quite some time now. Chances are at this point, your hard drive is indeed DEAD. After all, that's what SMART is supposed to warn you of-- either your hard drive is going bad, or it's dead when you get that SMART error.

I'm just going to give it to you straight.

USB drives SUCK in DOS. No matter what driver you attempt to use with it, it's not going to work, or work that well. I attempted this last year using a number of different methods, and it still took over 2 hours to transfer a 1GB file onto my drive.

Bottom line is that you're not ever going to get acceptable performance with a USB hdd in DOS.

you'll probably have to check the tech specs for each chip's manufacturer. I'm not sure there's a place that has each of those listed in some table-like format.

Ok, thats helped me understand the whole pairing. But that doesnt answer my question with going into 4x512. It talks about pairs, the 2x512 I have now are paired correctly and work. Does the next 2x512 I get have to pair up with my current? Making 4 equally paired sticks.

Yes, you do need at least the same speed to work in dual channel mode. I imagine that the same CAS timings, etc, is a good idea. I'm pretty certain you don't have to have the same manufacturer, but it's a good idea to do so, since you're assured of having essentially the same chips.

PC800 is RDRAM. You need to replace RDRAM in pairs on most systems, and all of it has to be the same speed.

Truth be told, PC800 RDRAM is UNGODLY expensive. Keeping in mind you are recommended to upgrade in pairs, I saw a guy spend over $400 to purchase 2x256MB sticks of RAM. YIKES!

If I were you, I'd consider upgrading the motherboard to something that doesn't use RDRAM, because the industry passed it up rather quickly, due to its high price, and the licensing of it.

Please provide us with more information:

What is the model of your system?
Have you recently added any hardware?
Has anything recently changed, with regards to the computer's setup?

Are there any peripherals, like printers or USB drives, attached?