Posts by chrisbliss18

How is this computer connected to the internet?
Did you run the Internet Connection Wizard on the machine?
Do any of the programs that access the net connect properly?

Using a hosts file is a very outdated form of protection. What problems are you having that you are trying to guard against?

Speakers are just speakers. The way speakers operate is very standardized. You could connect those speakers to a stereo as long as you had the correct converters. You could even connect those speakers to an MP3 player if you wished.

If you get a speaker system with more than 2.1 channels, then you need to make sure that you have a soundcard that can provide outputs for those additional channels. Since the set of speakers you are talking about have 2.1 channels, any standard sound card will work just fine with them.

I'm very confused however because speakers don't care what operating system is running the sound card that they are connected to. All speakers care about is that they are receiving a good signal and that they work.

If your speakers stopped working when you upgraded, the problem is your sound card driver not the speakers. Did you install your sound card driver when you upgraded the OS? If not, you can get the driver here.

There are settings in the Registry that can disable the Windows Script Host. Somehow, your Registry had these settings to disable it. It's hard to say exactly how those settings got there, but it's most likely to be the result of some security program setting that caused it to be disabled.

All I did was create an export of Registry keys that had the Windows Script Host enabled to a file that I gave to you. When you ran the file, it switched those settings from disable to enable.

We keep all responses here on Daniweb rather than by email so that others may be able to find answers if they have similar problems.

The problem definately sounds power supply related, but since you have replaced the PSU, I would start to suspect the motherboard, CPU, or RAM.

Just to make sure it has nothing to do with the power or power supply, try moving the system to a different location in the house/apartment/whatever, turn the switch on the back of the power supply off for a minute or so, plug the machine in, turn the switch on the power supply back on, wait a few moments, and then try to power the machine on. Let us know if that has any affect on the system.

Have you tried running the system with only the bare minimum of components? Try removing everything from the system except the motherboard, CPU, heatsink on the CPU, and RAM. These are the bare necessities to allow the machine to operate. Make sure that the fan on the heatsink is still connected to power. Try to boot the machine when it is in this state. Let us know if it runs longer like this.

*removed*

Download the attachment that I have below, unzip it into a folder somewhere, and double-click it. A pop-up window will ask you if you are sure that you want to add the information to your Registry, click "Yes". This will ensure that the WSH is not turned off in your Registry. After applying the fix, reboot your machine and try again. Let us know if the fix worked or not.

You pack a lot of information in a short space, so it is getting a bit vague.

• You had lock ups while trying to play WoW.
• You tried to install Windows 64-bit Edition, but you got an error.
• Since you got the error, you purchased a new harddrive and installed Windows XP on it.
• After you installed Windows XP and played the game, the lock ups did not occur.
• You changed some video performance settings. Can you be more specific about which settings you changed (video options in WoW, graphics card settings on the system, clock speeds, etc)?
• After you changed the settings for the video performance, your system started to lock up while playing WoW.
• You changed the settings back, but the lock ups still occur.

Am I understanding you correctly? It is very important that I understand exactly what's happening so I can assist you properly.

Did you reinstall the RAID driver for your motherboard? That's the one you are going to need.

Even if you could turn off the firewall (you can't), ports can't be forwarded to more than machine. In all my research, I did not find any means that allows for MSN port assignments to be modified. It is for this reason that I have decided that the MSN Messenger was very poorly designed or designed to be fully functional for only a small subset of users.

As for your router's firewall not being very important, that's not true at all. The router's firewall protects your machines from attacks all day long. If you turn on full logging on your router, you will no doubt see all the deflected port sniffs, buffer overflow attempts, excessive ping requests, and other potentially harmful requests that your router's firewall absorbs so that your machines don't have to. Furthermore, the NAT feature on the router means that your machines are never directly exposed and that a whole network of computers appears as just one.

The original code was:

<object width="350" height="350" classid="CLSID:22d6f312-b0f6-11d0-94ab-0080c74c7e95" id="mediaplayer1"> 
  <param name="Filename" value="<?php print $stream_address; ?>"> 
  <param name="AutoStart" value="True"> 
  <param name="ShowControls" value="True"> 
  <param name="ShowStatusBar" value="True"> 
  <param name="ShowDisplay" value="False"> 
  <param name="AutoRewind" value="True"> 
  <embed type="application/x-mplayer2" pluginspage="http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/Downloads/Contents/MediaPlayer/" width="350" height="350" src="<?php print $stream_address; ?>" filename="<?php print $stream_address; ?>" autostart="True" showcontrols="True" showstatusbar="True" showdisplay="False" autorewind="True"></embed> 
</object>

This was fixed to produce:

<object width="350" height="350" classid="CLSID:22d6f312-b0f6-11d0-94ab-0080c74c7e95" id="mediaplayer1"> 
  <param name="Filename" value="<?php print $_GET['stream_address']; ?>"> 
  <param name="AutoStart" value="True"> 
  <param name="ShowControls" value="True"> 
  <param name="ShowStatusBar" value="True"> 
  <param name="ShowDisplay" value="False"> 
  <param name="AutoRewind" value="True"> 
  <embed type="application/x-mplayer2" pluginspage="http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/Downloads/Contents/MediaPlayer/" width="350" height="350" src="<?php print $_GET['stream_address']; ?>" filename="<?php print $_GET['stream_address']; ?>" autostart="True" showcontrols="True" showstatusbar="True" showdisplay="False" autorewind="True"></embed> 
</object>

Nice avatar Narue. Tenjou Tenge is awesome... And Maya is hot. There... I said it :).

So... You want all the code to do the entire project? That's a tall order.

What kind of streams are you working with? How do you access them currently?

JavaScript is a client-side technology and PHP is a server-side technology. This means that the JavaScript code executes on the browser and the PHP code executes on the server. You cannot have server-side code execute based upon the logic executed by the client-side code, at least, not directly.

It would seem that you are wanting to do a check for the functionality of JavaScript. Is this correct? If so, there are many ways to do this, but none of them involve PHP.

Do you mind sharing with us what you did that fixed the problem? It could help someone else that has the same problem.

I have found two solutions to your problem. They follow in order of most recommended to least.

UPnP
Microsoft recommends that you use a router that supports UPnP (Universal Plug and Play). This feature allows Windows to tell the router to forward and close ports on the fly. I use this for many different applications and it does work well. Since you are having this problem, it would seem that you do not have that feature on your router, you have UPnP turned off in your services, and/or you have UPnP turned off on your router.

Port Forwarding
You can manually forward the ports needed by MSN Messenger. You do this by accessing the firewall ruleset or port forwarding configuration page of your router. The ports that need to be forwarded are Ports to open are:

• MSN Messenger feature: Protocol used (Port number/range)
• Voice: TCP and UDP - (6901)
• File Transfer: TCP (6891 - 6900)
• Instant Messaging: TCP (1863)

These ports need to be forwarded to the computer that you wish to use MSN Messenger on.

Note: individual ports can only be forwarded to one machine, so you need to decide which machine will be used for all MSN Messenger tasks.

Since you will be forwarding to an IP address, it is important that the same machine receives the same IP address. See if your router configuration mentions anything about MAC Filtering, Static IP DHCP, or MAC Addressing. Using MAC Filtering, …

I recently had a brief back and forth with nizzy1115 about IDE channel sharing and how to set up drives on the channels for maximum performance. Since there isn't a "right answer", I was curious what everyone's take was.

My opinion is that harddrives are used more often than optical drives, so it's better to have optical drives sharing a channel with harddrives than it is for harddrives to share channels. My system usage is harddrive intensive though, so I am biased. I have three internal harddrives and two external, and I always have slowdowns when I am making transfers between the two drives that share a channel.

What do you guys think?

You can manage partitions before the installation. Once the partitions are setup and one of them is selected to use for the OS, that partition will be formatted to NTFS but the remaining ones will be left as unformatted. Once the installation is complete, you can use the Disk Manager to format the unformatted partitions to whatever file system you wish to use.

Anothing nice thing about Windows XP is that you can create one partition and use it for the install while leaving the rest of the drive unpartitioned. After the system is installed, you can use the Disk Manager to partition and format the remaining drive space.

This is what the Compaq site had to say about the BIOS utility for your system (source):

You may have difficulty accessing the BIOS Setup utility screen, because you must press a specific key (usually F1) very quickly before the Windows screen appears. If you do not enter the BIOS Setup screen on your first try, repeat the following steps until you are successful.

To open the BIOS Setup screen:
1. Turn off the PC and wait about 5 seconds.
2. Turn on the PC.
3. When the first screen appears, press the F1 key on the keyboard. (You can press the key more than once.) The BIOS Setup Utility Main menu appears.
NOTE: On certain Compaq Presario PCs (prior to 2002) press the F10 key at the logo screen to enter setup.
4. Use the keyboard to navigate through the menus.

Can you show me screenshots of what your configuration page looks like after you select "BASIC" and after you select "ADVANCE"? This will help me to know what your router is capable of letting you configure.

Routers really do solve many, many issues with running broadband. I always recommend that anyone that has broadband get one. It may require some configuration and a little know-how, but it cetainly improves the quality and reliability of the connection while enabling easy connection sharing.

That really isn't necessary Lightninghawk. The Windows XP setup makes it very easy to partition the drives without the use of special bootdisks. I guess I have to give credit to Microsoft for finally getting something right with their install procedures.

The technical specs for SATA shows that it has a speed advantage over IDE, but the speed advantage for standard SATA vs ATA133 (the connection speed used by the fastest IDE drives) is very slight and wouldn't be noticed by most users. There is a newer SATA spec called SATA II that essentially doubles the throughput speed compared to the original SATA, but the motherboards with these connections and the drives that can fully utilize them are not very cheap.

So, yes, SATA is faster than IDE but not by much.

FYI: I updated my post above.

As for your router... Nasty. I guess it's one of those modem/router combo deals. Did your ISP send it to you with your connection subscription or did you buy it?

How do you access the configuration screen?

What is the manufacturer and model of your router?

What version of Windows are you using?

After some quick searching, it seems that you may not be able to get this to work while behind a router without either reducing security on your system or doing some really nasty configuration that may not be possible for you.

This is why I stopped using MSN. It's silly that Microsoft can't even make their products work properly in standard operating environments.

Is sound affected in any other way?

Does sound work when you play local (files on your computer) MP3, WAV, or WMA files?

Did you install any new software just before the problem started occuring?

There are a few things you can do to improve boot performance and OS load times. Reboot the system between each step.

• Turn off unused devices in the Device Manager (Control Panel, System, Hardware, Device Manager). Find devices that you may not use, such as modems or card readers, right-click them and select Disable. Make sure that you can disable the device or you may lose access to key components.
• Fix any potential problems with core Windows files. Do this by running "sfc /scannow"
• Fix disk errors. Right-click your main drive, select Properties, select Tools, click "Check Now...", select both "Automatically fix file system errors" and "Scan for and attempt recovery of bad sectors", and click Start. It may ask you a question about scheduling the process to occur at the next reboot. If it does, accept the scheduling and reboot your system to perform the scan.
• Run Microsoft Bootvis. You can find information about Bootvis here. Bootvis allows you to explicitly tell Windows to optimize the boot process.

Let me know if this improves performance for you.

It would seem that the 5.6 version has some undocumented bugs and software/OS conflicts. I'm sure this info will help others that may be experiencing similar issues. Can you provide the link to the 5.5 version?

Oh... Congrats on getting it sorted.

Musica, what type of internet connection are you using? If it is a standard cable or DSL connection, there is a reason why you can't send through SMTP. SMTP uses port 25, most ISPs block all port 25 sends unless you buy a business or static IP connection. The reason for this is simple, they are trying to reduce the amount of spam on the net by removing the ability for standard home users to send mail arbitrarily out on port 25, thus defeating the efforts of most spambot viruses. Don't fret though, there is an easy solution for this. All ISPs provide you with an SMTP server that you can use. Simply set up all your email accounts to send through your ISP's SMTP server, and you're set.

If you need any help figuring out what your ISP's SMTP server is, just let us know what ISP you are using, and we can go from there.

I ended up ditching all Microsoft tech for servers a year ago just because of reasons such as this. They don't disclose limitations like this when you purchase the software and expect you to pay them to for the priviledge of finding out how truly limited the OS is. Then they tell you that you need to buy a new OS or upgrade your license. It's a stupid mess that they have created all in order to justify the need for MSCE certifications and higher-priced "server line" Windows versions.

In the end, I built a Linux server running Samba. Since then, I haven't had any problems accessing the network drives, doing remote logins to the local server, etc. The funny thing is that this didn't cost me one red cent, just a bit of time that ended up being far less than the time I spent diagnosing problems with my Windows server.

Computer temperatures are usually talked about in Celcius. This helps keep things simpler. 84F is approximately 28C. This is a very cool temperature, so I imagine that this temperature refers to your system temperature (the temperature of the air that is in the case) and not the temperature of the CPU. I noticed in the pic that you had in the other thread that it did say CPU 84F, but just because it says, doesn't mean that it is accurate. How was the thermal probe (the temperature sensor) installed? If it wasn't installed properly or wasn't installed on the chip at all, it isn't measuring the CPU temperature. If you want to confirm the CPU temp, get Speedfan. This program will access the temperature monitoring chips inside your CPU and motherboard and give temp readouts.

Hardly anyone agrees what temperature a CPU should run at (other than cooler is better that is). I find a range of 40-50C to be acceptable for my system. The important thing is to not allow your chip to get too hot. Different chips have different thermal tolerances. I believe that your chip (AMD Athlon 64 4000+ San Diego) has a maximum thermal tolerance of 80C. This means that damage can occur to your chip if you run over that rated tolerance. In that case, I would recommend never letting your chip exceed 60-65C.

How do the other two fans plug in? Do they plug into headers on the case? If so, make sure that you plug the third fan into the third header.

P.S. AMD's Cool'n'Quiet technology is a feature of their 64-bit line of chips that allows the CPU to cycle down when it isn't being pushed hard in order to concerve electricity and reduce heat output but quickly speeds up the chip when it is put to full use. This feature has nothing to do with case cooling.

In order to ensure that you don't run into problems by hitting the 32GB barrier, make all your secondary storage locations 32GB or smaller. So you could have a total of three partitions: a 30GB NTFS one for the OS, a 30GB partition formatted in FAT32 for media files, and a 20GB partition formatted in FAT32 for programs or another operating system.

You're a bit vague about the problem. Let me see if I have the information correct.

• You have a system that came with a CD burner.
• The burner didn't work.
• You tried booting up the computer using a different harddrive that had Windows XP Home on it in order to see if the different OS install would be able to use the CD burner.
• The burner still didn't work.
• Now you think that you may have bad hardware.

Does this describe your situation?

If so, there are some questions that need to be answered in order to find out more about your system.

Does the drive read CDs but does not burn them or does it not function at all?
What software/method are you using to try to burn the CDs?
What kind of system do you have (include manufacturer name

The board only supports one processor. The dual-core chips is one chip with two cores inside of it, so you would buy an AMD Athlon 64 X2 chip, such as the AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ Manchester.

I recommend that you buy a retail package and not an OEM. The retail package comes with a new heatsink and fan. When you are ready to install the new chip, take off the current heatsink, remove the chip (I can tell you how to do this if you don't know), pop the new chip in, and carefully mount the new heatsink.

Yes, that board is able to run X2 chips.

That's the detailed information about your CPU, not your motherboard. Please provide the information about your motherboard.

Since your RAM is the new piece in the system, I would start diagnosing from there. Download Memtest86, burn the ISO to a disk, reboot your system, and boot from the disk. The program will automatically load and start testing your RAM. Allow it to run for a few hours (overnight works well), and see if any errors are produced. If your system rebooted during the testing, it is possible that your RAM is not the problem and that some other component (possibly the power supply) is the culprit.

Run the test and report your results.

Unless you absolutely, without a doubt, know what you are doing, do not overclock. If you are dead set on overclocking, do your research. If you don't, you could fry your CPU, motherboard, RAM, and/or video card. Find some people that overclocked a system that is as close to your system as possible. See what they were able to get out of the system. Make sure that you have adequate cooling and that you don't try to go all out on the first try. The best way to overclock is knowing how overclocking works, what to expect out of your chip, and taking the overclock in small incremental steps.

That is the correct default clock speed for that chip.

Unfortunately it isn't as simple as that.

Most likely, you have an AMD Athlon 64 4000+ San Diego chip currently. This chip has a socket 939 design, so I know that your motherboard supports socket 939 chips, but this doesn't mean that the board supports all socket 939 chips. The X2, dual core, chips have socket 939 designs as well, but I really need to know what specific motherboard you are using in order to reasonably assure you that you can upgrade to a X2 chip. Remember, the upgrade potential isn't based upon what you are upgrading; rather, it is based upon what you are upgrading plugs into and what its capabilities are.

Wow... Your attitude really makes me want to help you out. Obviously the lack of response in less than a 24 hour period is indication that the site is dying and not one of a host of other possibilities (people are busy, it's holiday season, the fact that people may have no clue how to help you, etc).

Did you restart your system after uninstalling Zone Alarm so that Sygate had a fresh plate to work with? If you didn't, it's possible that the remaining steps that Zone Alarm uninstall did during the next system load damaged settings that Sygate had setup. I recommend that you make sure that both packages are uninstalled, rebooting, running a registry cleaner and possibly even "sfc /scannow", rebooting, and then trying the install again.

Unfortunately, there are just too many reasons why the software may not be operating properly. Have you applied all the patches for Windows? Do you have any viruses, spyware, or other malware that are on your system that may try to prevent firewalls from loading (this happened to me when a virus killed Norton upon a reboot)?

Another problem is that Sygate has absolutely no FAQ section, so I couldn't find any answers on their site.

Sorry if I wasn't able to help, but your need is specific and the problem space is far too vast with little specific search criteria.

Hello again Loopah. I responded to your other thread that referred to this. I will take the fact that you created this thread as a sign that you need to know how to install your motherboard's drivers. If you don't know what exact motherboard you have, download, install, and run Everest (it's free). This tool will show you very detailed information about your system. After you have the details of your motherboard (manufacturer name, model number, version, etc), please post that information here. Once you have done that, we will help you find the drivers that you need.

Maine_iac Gal, you have used many different terms, all of which mean something different. Let's try to identify exactly what you have and what you are trying to do.

Is your drive a CD burner (it will usually say CD-R, CD+R, CD-RW, CD+RW, or some combination of that on the drive tray if it is), is it a DVD burner (DVD-R, DVD+R, DVD-RW, DVD+RW), is it a standard CD drive, or is it a standard DVD drive? If you need further assistance in finding this out, just let us know, and we can walk you through the process of finding out exactly what drive you have and what it can do.

Now then, are you trying to make a burn a CD or a DVD? There is a very big difference, so please be specific about which you are trying to make.

A simple test to test if a drive can burn a blank disk that you've inserted into it is to put the disk in, let the drive read the disk so that it is usable (in other words, let the drive site for a few seconds after you've inserted the disk), find some files you wish to write to the drive in File Explorer, highlight the files, and drag them onto the icon that represents the drive that you wish use for writing. If the drive can be used for writing, you should see a ballon dialog pop up in the lower-right corner of your …

fasttx2k is a driver. Since you removed it, you will receive errors. I recommend reinstalling your motherboard drivers. If you need help on how to do this, I will be glad to walk you through the process.

As for the messages in your system log that you saw regarding fasttx2k, what did they actually say? Were they errors or just informative messages? The content of the message is very important.

There are many things that could cause WoW to crash. Since your system is freezing like that, my first thoughts are that this is caused by faulty memory, a power supply that is going on, a defective video card, or even the system overheating. Has this problem always happened or was there a period of time when this did not happen and one day it started occuring?

Please answer all of my questions since they are all important in order for me to give good advice and fix your problems faster.

When you install XP, you can setup the partitions at that time. One of the first screens that you'll come to will have you select the partition you wish to install Windows to. If the drive currently has partitions set, delete all of them (follow the guide at the bottom of the screen to see what key does what). Now you should see your drive totally unpartitioned. Press C to create a partition. The size of the partition will automatically be set to the full size of the drive, don't use that; rather, make the partition the size that you want your Windows XP partition to be. After you have created the Windows XP partition, press C on the remaining space to create another partition. You can repeat this step as many times as you'd like to create how ever many partitions you want to have on your system. Once you have created all the partitions you wish to create, move the cursor over the partition you wish to install Windows to and press the Enter key.

After Windows has installed, you can format the partitions by going to Control Panel, Administrative Tools, Computer Management, and selecting Disk Management from the window that pops up. To format a partition, right-click it and select "Format...".

Sorry nizzy1115, I disagree with you. To get maximum performance out of your harddrives, put your harddrives on different channels. When drives share a channel and both are being accessed at the same time, a data bottleneck is created that slows down the performance of both.

rhoff, since you are more likely to use a harddrive more often than an optical drive, have the harddrives and the optical drives share a channel. This way you get maximum channel throughput out of your harddrives at all times unless one of the optical drives on the channel is being used. In simpler terms, have each of your two IDE channels connect to a harddrive and an optical drive. In this configuration, it really doesn't matter which one is slave or master since you will not be booting from the IDE harddrives.

If you really aren't worried about getting the maximum potential throughput out of your drives, you can set them up however you'd like.

As a rule of thumb, always have drives that are likely to access eachother frequently on different channels. So if there are two drives that copy data back and forth between themselves, it is best to have them on separate channels. If you frequently burn data from a certain harddrive onto optical media, have that harddrive on a different channel than the optical drive that will be used to burn the data. Once again, this is recommended for maximum drive-to-drive throughput and is not necessary …

I hope it works out for you.

The amount of remote connections you can make to a machine depends on the licensing of your OS. Standard licenses allow up to two concurrent connections. Many of the basic server licenses allow ten. There are enterprise licenses that allow even more than that however, but they cost a pretty penny.

It may not be your router that your system is trying to connect to. If you never changed the SSID (the router name) on the router and you have a neighbor that has a router from the same manufacturer that never changed their's either, your computer could be trying to connect to their's rather than your own.

I recommend accessing the configuration page of your router and making some changes. First, change your router's SSID to something unique, but one that does not reveal your location. Secondly, turn on the security using WEP is minimal and WPA/SPK is recommended. If you don't have security turned on, anyone can access your network, use your internet connection, and possible access/modify/delete your files. Lastly, change your router's admin password. Too many people leave their routers and their systems wide open because they don't change the SSID, configure security, or change the passwords.

There isn't a problem in mixing SATA and IDE drives. You just need to configure your BIOS settings correctly so it boots from the drive you wish to use as the boot drive.