Posts by goldeagle2005

How much RAM do you have? The message you describe points to your swap file getting full. Typically, the swap file size should be 1.5 times the size of installed RAM. For 128 MB RAM, the swap file size should be 384 MB.

Also, try defragmenting your hard drive. I would suggest you install more RAM though.

You say you got the second disk from newegg. What disk is it? If it's an install CD, it won't be thee OEM CD. You need the disk labelled 'Windows Installation CD', or something like that. The first disk you mentioned is a system OEM branding disk, which shouldn't have been distributed, but might have been included as an oversight. You can ask your OEM manufacturer for an OEM installation disk.

A simple task. Click Start>Run. In the run box, type 'control userpasswords2' (without quotes). In the user accounts applet which opens, uncheck the box labelled 'Users must enter a user name and password to use this computer', and click apply. In the box that pops up, type in the username and password of the account which you want to logon to, and click OK. From now on, you won't be presented with the login screen.

Slight modification to the last post:
Click Tools>Folder Options. Click on the "File Types" tab. Under the heading "Registered File Types", find the association for MP3. Select that and click 'Advanced'. In the 'Edit File Type' dialog box, you'll find a check box labelled 'Confirm open after download'. Select this check box and click OK twice to close the Folder Options applet. Now when you click on a link to MP3 files, you'll be given a choice to either open the file or save to disk. Choose 'Save to Disk' to save the files.

I tried that. No avail. Any other suggestions?

I concur. You could also try compacting your data file once you've deleted the redundant mails.

It's possible the spyware you had earlier may have corrupted a few files. I'd suggest a format and reinstall of Windows

Also, check the SMPS is giving proper power to the CD Drive. Is the power connector plugged in tightly? I've seen quite a lot of times that because of a loose plug, the 5V line is powered, leading to the drive being detected and all LEDs glowing, but the 12V line isn't connected. As a result, the motor doesn't spin.

try launching explorer.exe from the task manager. Once explorer is up, get your sysadmin to fix your machine.

Yes. These enclosures have the same interface cables (40 pin data and 4 pin power) as a regular hard drive. The other end is typically USB or Firewire. They also have a jack to connect an AC Adaptor(USB can only supply 5V DC while the hard disk needs 12V DC in addition to the 5V DC).

You could try using the Windows Generic Drivers for your network card until D-Link releases an updated version

hi friends,

pls help me by posting windows detailed memory map(protected mode)

thank u

What?

As long as you keep the magnets away from the components, ESPECIALLY the hard drive

You sure you're using the correct heatsink/motherboard?

check the system.ini file (C:\Windows\system.ini). Scroll till you find a line that starts with 'Shell='. Make sure it reads as 'Shell=explorer.exe'. Save the file and reboot. You'll need to do this from a DOS window (obviously). Once you get to a DOS Prompt, type the following commands.

C: <enter>
cd \ <enter>
cd windows <enter>
cd command <enter>
edit C:\Windows\System.ini <enter>

Change the line to read as shell=explorer.exe
Save the file and restart the computer. If this doesn't help, post back here.

The amount of RAM you have is barely sufficient to run XP. For decent performance, you need a minimum of 256 MB. Also, your processor is just about OK. I'd suggest you go for a new machine altogether.

Run Windows Setup. When prompted to choose between an Upgrade or a Clean Install. choose Upgrade. That won't wipe your settings out....

What DXDIAG shows is the data read from your mobo's DMI, which is filled in by the mobo manufacturer. In my case, I have an MSI mainboard and DxDiag shows System Manufacturer as 'Micro Star International LTD'. You really can't do much about it.

Who's the manufacturer of your main board?

Pop the windows xp cd in the drive and reboot. Press del to enter bios setup(your bios may require another key to enter setup like F2). Under Advanced BIOS setup, there should be an item called as Boot Sequence. Change the setting so that the first boot device is your CD-ROM. Press F10 to save settings and restart your machine. This will boot off of your Windows XP CD. Follow the on screen prompts to install Windows XP.

A reinstall of the driver is a good solution as it sounds like your drivers are corrupt. As for your concern that disabling is a workaround and not a solution, I beg to differ. I never use the nwiz stuff anyways. After installing the nVidia drivers, I delete all the startup entries from the registry. I also disable the nVidia Display Driver Service. That way, the startup items are not restored. I've had no performance degradation because of this. On the contrary, my computer starts up faster.

FYI, deleting the registry keys from 'HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run' is the same as disabling the items using msconfig, the only advantage being that if you use msconfig, you can restore the items easily.

Before formatting or reinstalling, try System Restore (Start>Programs>Accessories>System Tools>System Restore). When it starts, choose a restore point which you know works properly.

Probably your ASPI drivers are corrupt. You could try installing fresh ones. Reinstalling Nero usually does the trick. If not, google ASPI.

He means the Internet Lock in Zone Alarm. It's a quick way to shut off all activity for a while.
akinpwal, just click the lock icon in ZA to unlock internet access.

Alternately, you can right click the ZA icon in the systray and click "Engage Internet Lock" to clear the check mark. This will restore internet access.

Specs look drool worthy

For your hard drive worries, a little noise from the seagate hdd is normal. As long as its not a screeching sound, you should be okay.

You mentioned a screeching sound from the cabinet in general. THAT is worrisome. Is it emanating from the hard drive? The CD Drive? Try disconnecting all components and then reconnect them one by one to see which component is at fault

You could try restoring the shortcuts from the Default User profile. Copy all the files from 'C:\Documents and Settings\Default User\SendTo' to 'C:\Documents and Settings\<your user name>\SendTo'.

hi ...

i dont think you will be charged since all of us connect to all the ftp services all the time that are out of the country .. and since the linux server is a sort of ftp .. its pretty obvious that you wont be charged ..

I agree. You will be charged the normal rates charged by your ISP for Internet Access and the rates charged by the phone company for dial up access.

ntvdm is a legitimate process used by windows to emulate a dos environment. It's not spyware.

Hey,
I have 2 computers, running Windows XP Pro (not SP2). The first computer has 2 lan cards, the second has one. One of these is connected to the internet (IP 10.40.100.92). The other lan card is connected to the second computer using a network crossover cable. The IP of the second lan card on the first computer is set to 192.168.0.1 and the IP of the second computer is 192.168.0.2

The problem is that though the two computers can see each other on the network, share files and ping each other, only the first computer can access the internet. The second cannot access the internet. I have ICS running on the internet computer. The second computer has detected that there's an internet connection through the first computer and network connections shows that there is an internet gateway through the first computer. Despite that, it can't access the internet. Both computers can share files. Can anyone help me out please?

gmail invites? Sure thing. mail me: goldeagle2005@gmail.com

You could try salvaging the mobo, lan and gfx cards as well. Just make sure you dry them thoroughly. Keep them under a gentle flow of warm(not hot) air for a while.

The hard drives and optical drives are another story though. I agree with the other guys that you ought to replace them.

Good Luck

Fedora core 1 and i think later versions, come with FIPS for partition resizing.

Disk druid, I think....

Hey,
Im trying to install mplayer in my FC4 system, but on giving the RPM commands, I get an error "libpng.so.2 is required". Where do I download this file from?

Also, if you can suggest any other player capable of playing DivX movies, it'd be great. When I used mplayer on my old FC1 system, it used to crash quite a bit...
Thanks dudes

In addition to chrissbliss' response, I'd suggest you go for a SATA hard drive(preferably SATA2) as SATA performance is much better than IDE. Also, SATA cables being smaller, there's more room for air flow and ventilation. SATA also has no jumpers that need to be set.

...or just reinstall windows.

Thank you goldeagle...that was a point that I wasn't sure about, I had problems adding a slave drive with my new Maxtor ATA, there was some controversy about being able to use cable select for both, or one having to be master and the other slave. :o

If you set both hard drives to cable select, you need an 80 conductor IDE cable. Plug the blue end to the mobo, the black end in the disk you want configured as master and the grey end to the disk you want as slave. If you're using the regular cable, you need to set one disk master and the other slave.

Some sata disks dont show up in the bios. You said that if you disconnect the IDE disk, the system boots off of the SATA disk. This shows the disk is connected fine and is being detected.

As to why both HDD's dont show up, Im not too sure abt that, but Im guessing that both hard drives have an active boot partition each. That may be causing a conflict. Try deactivating the active partition on your old HDD.

Oh, and SATA HDDs do not have any jumper settings to be configured...

I agree, its risky using an NTFS volume on a mac. A wrong write may destroy all data. Why? NTFS is a propriety file system, and MS has not released the details of NTFS. I'd suggest you put your NTFS HDD on a shared machine and copy the data to the mac. then, reformat as HFS+.....

Strange notion, but okay...I don't think a mobo with integrated speakers provides for a header to attach another speaker. Even if they do, the board will probably have only one header to attach a speaker. If you're good with wiring, you could rig all 40 speakers in parallel to a single plug. Though Im not sure how that would sound...;)

Here's a link to the drivers download page for your mobo. Download the sata drivers from here.
http://support.asus.com/download/download.aspx?Type=All&model=P5GD1

He has 256MB, first post of threaed.

Heh. Little oversight on my part....

Sounds like a loose/faulty power or data cable. Replace and see. If this doesn't help, the mobo or the optical drive may be at fault. Contact Toshiba for a diagnostic.

I''m using Lexar's Jump Drives. They're regular flash drives. However, the reason I love them is that they are very rugged. I accidentally washed my Jump Drive for 30 minutes in the machine. When it came out, it smelled new and my data was intact....

the fans you should have in your system are as follows:

CPU heatsink assembly - comes with fan
case fans - varies depending on your case
psu fan - inside the powersupply unit. DONT EVER TOUCH THIS. Most psus can hold enough electricity inside their transistors to kill you even long after the machine has been turned off.

what you need to check upon is the fans themselves and their connections to the mainboard or to the power supply unit via the molex connectors. sometimes connections can work loose.

try this and tell me what happens.:cool:

Okay, regarding the original post. I think that if a fan is the culprit, it's got to be the NorthBridge fan. ianc, is there a fan on your motherboard? It should be below the processor assembly. The symptoms you've described are consistent with over heating. See if the NB fan is turning rapidly. If not, get it changed...

It's not volts, but watts. It's the amount of power the SMPS will be able to supply to your computer components. As computer components get more powerful, they consume much more power. Hence, your SMPS of 220 watts is not sufficient to keep your system running properly. Your vendor is correct about the fact that the machine is heating up due to a low wattage SMPS. This is because the components are drawing more power than the SMPS can supply. In the long run, this can lead to problems ranging from a burned out SMPS to a completely fried motherboard and processor. A 350 Watt SMPS is the bare minimum you need. I'd actually advise you to go for a 400 Watt SMPS. The cost is around Rupees 550 to Rupees 650.

Hi...
Is it possible to use a socket 754 Athlon 64 CPU on a motherboard with a socket 939 interface?
Thanks

Would recommend 256 megs for XP

Wiuld recommend 256 megs for XP

umm, I hate to bust your bubble about disfunctional PCs, but any form of video conversion, using either nero, Dr DivX, or any other software will use up all of your CPU time. Video encoding is complex and utilises your CPU to the max. Even if you get a 64 bit Athlon, video conversion will use up all of your CPU time.

Debbie:About your second query (the machine hangs), I suggest you uninstall nero and run a check for viruses and spyware. I also suggest you install the latest ASPI drivers and reinstall nero. Also, in device manager, under "IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers", double click the channel to which your Writer is connected and click the "Advanced Settings" tab. Under transfer mode, select "DMA if Available" and click OK. The transfer mode should now show "Ultra DMA Mode 2". See if this helps you out. If not, let us know

For the problem about both Optical drives not working, i guess its a jumper conflict. If not, try replacing the data cable. Also, you might try using both your new and old drives on another computer to eliminate the problem....

As for your second problem, is the CD you're trying to write on of a good quality? Some recorders don't recognize a bad quality disk.