Suspishio

jbennet means repair by software that can save data. The principal steps to recover the drive are: 1/ Get the exact HDD model details and use themn to find, download & run a low level formatter. The formatter shoud find the drive. 2/ Then FDISK the drive that has been …

Did you google your question? [url]http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=160237[/url] I found this first go. Seems useful to me.

First thing to try is to RUN EXPLORER.EXE. If it runs (which it might not because that's the first line problem that's happened) then your desktop should appear. If a re-boot doesn't maintain this improvement then you should go to a system restore point prior to this happening. Or boot …

re-build windows seems the right approach to me.

Have a look at this thread thatr I wrote a few days ago: [url]http://www.daniweb.com/forums/thread88342.html[/url] It provides a step by step guide as to how to get rid of the Vundo trojan - the principles in that case surely apply to yours. The file you identified, [I]c:\d.exe[/I] is the likely culprit …

This sort of thing is usually a kinked or shorting flat ribbon cable in the lid/body interface. Needs expert repair.

There are a few threads here with "clicking" as a suspect symptom. It could also be electrical if the clicking can be heard through the speakers. Hughv is on the right lines - note that the PSU can glitch and damage the CPU and if that's in mid disk write …

I suggest a common cause fault if two PCs have the same problem. Say the PCs are left on overnight - there is a power glitch and they get hosed. It might be they were in disk write mode or something like that and only the disk drives are screwed, …

Your caution is wise. Something has changed the file association to "CMD /c ..." etc. Incidentally it's the /c that makes the CMD screen disappear. As an aside, if you amended the /c to /k in the registry entry, then the screen will remain. Disregarding for the moment the possibility …

Hopefully by opening up, having a look at what are hopefully adjacent connectors, and fingers crossed prising apart something that's touching the other. Nah - it'll never be as easy as that. If it isn't, then there's possibly a track on the circuitry bridging or a resistor blown in the …

There are a number of threads like this; sometimes the dektop doesn't populate; sometines several programs don't execute. There are three approaches (in my experience) depending on what's actually the cause: 1/ If you can boot in Safe Mode, do so and try to sniff around system32 folder for any …

I doubt it'll be fine. Always a chance but there has to be a cause for this event. If you search this forum on such as "No desktop", "No Icons", "Explorer.exe", this stuff has happened before and it isn't trivial to get back to normal. Have a read of the …

The Gateway seems to be a case of a poor contact/dry solder on the motherboard. Hence the past behaviour. Now the contact isn't making at all. The Barzilian laptops (6 of them) sounds like a common manufacturing fault. Few of us are going to be any help here for the …

Have you tried F8 and then the diagnostic boot mode? You can then report where it stops (at which .SYS file).

You're right to ask - albeit you're in the wrong forum part. But no matter. You'll likely get a lot of conflicting advice so I'm glad to have got in first. We should approach this from the issues you need to consider in your choice. It's not straightforward. 1/ Check …

It could be either or both of two problems 1/ PSU by your own estimation is not doing the job 2/ A glitch on the latest PSU hosed the mobo. We should really be diagnosing this with the right PSU.

POST should report a CMOS failure. If it doesn't it's not the CMOS. No POST usually means screwed motherboard.

1/ Did you read: [url]http://support.microsoft.com/kb/228888[/url] 2/ 0x0000050 can accompany 0x0000024 if it's a page fault error 3/ The combination of the two might mean dodgy RAM. Microsoft have a comprehensive memory tester that I've used with XP. [url]http://oca.microsoft.com/en/windiag.asp[/url] Let us know please.

If the other PC happens to be pumping stuff into the LAN it'll swamp the LAN. So you prolly need to slap a monitor utility onto that PC and see what's going on. The utility you can use is ShowTraf. Go to: [url]http://sourceforge.net/projects/showtraf[/url]

[url]http://www.daniweb.com/forums/thread88342.html[/url] This is a link to a thread I started in 2007. It takes you step by step through an approach to rid yourself of most trojans. Because you can pinpoint the date and time when the unfortunate event happened, this is particularly suited to the method I have described. …

Sounds like the screen to me because it's what you're doing to the screen that brings it back. Probably a capacitor leaking in the HT circuit. If you take the monitor to a friend's house and try it you'll get a clearer indication.

Thi sort of problem often comes here from people who klnow what they're doing with computers and are, as youve said, absolutely stumped. If anybody else takes an interest (which is usually proportional to the amount of technical detail provided in a question), you'll get theories from A - Z. …

There are many threads in many fforums describing exactly what you say. Usually on HP laptops. Allthe solutions required electrical contacts on the mobo below the part of keyboard pressed being re-soldered sort of thing. This is a warranty or repair job IMHO.

You can rename any user. If everything else is functioning correctly (like paths to applications) then just recreate your desktop long way round (and maje a copy of it!).

[url]http://www.lancelhoff.com/multi-partition-a-usb-flash-drive-in-windows/[/url] Did you see the above link?

85.255.113.132,85.255.112.84 The lines with this IP address are the problem. Needs dealing with immediately IMHO. Read the sticky posts in the spyware forum and follow the advice there to resolve this. You can do this yourself with the anti-malware routines offered or you do this the lon way round posting …

I suspect that the PC was on its exit path before you bought it. A CPU can only reach 80C when not worked hard if it is not being cooled adequately (I hesitate to suggest an over-voltage but not impossible then it wouldn't have worked for a few days). Yet …

I'm not the expert on 2003, but in my experience with XP Pro, re-installing a service pack is a solid bet for putting stuff right. I've also put stuff right without losing my applications by just Updating Windows from its own system disk.

There could be a remnant if you didn't remove it via the Programs & Features function of Control Panel. But I'm sure you did it properly. But you can check the registry for remnants or the Office12 file in Program Files. I had a trial version on my Qosmio and …

Search Antivirus2008 and Antivirus2009 in this forum and you'll find plenty of stuff on how to deal with 2009.

The answers to the second set of questions actually answers the first. 44C is a reasonable idling temperature for a modern CPU and 66C is a reasonable temperature for a hard working CPU that is adequately ventilated. Other threads in this forum will bear this out.

[url]http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/psu-roundup_3.html[/url] Might help. The power connectors are different.

Please go to the Virus/Spyware forum, read the Readme posts and follow the offered steps using anti-Malware software that you can download on the good PC you have and trabsfer to the infected PC by memory stick.

If your company used LAN Bridge as the connection method then this would be correct.

If you lost the that then you are in deep doodoo! If you've lost your Meerkat, go to [url]www.comparethemeerkat.com[/url]. If you've lost your setup disk then there's very little you can do but buy a new copy of Windows.

Right click on the link & copy the shortcut. Point mouse at Desktop, right click and paste. Or have I misunderstood?

Not likely to be overheating. My money's on the video driver clashing with another part of windows. Usually this is due to a driver being written in contravention of kernel protection rules - something like that. There's a whole string of stuff about the ialmrnt5 driver at [url]http://software.intel.com/en-us/forums/user-community-for-intel-graphics-technology/topic/51557/[/url] It'll prolly …

I pull the plug after hibernating all the time - so it isn't that. If you didn't mean hibernate but you meant Standby, then pulling power should ordinarily have no adverse effect until CMOS battery runs out. My first step would now be re-enable the Windows Event system. You want …

It's Core2 Duo and, as you say, a 64 bit setup. So it'll run both XP 64 and Vista 64. No question.

I've not tried this - but disable in Device manager the duff device and then if you've set the BIOS to boot from CD it ought to use the other device. But, perhaps, first, wash the CD in warm sopy water, dry it thoroughly with a lint free cloth and …

Could be shorting intermittently through dust on the front switch. Have you thoroughly cleaned the whole thing out properly and then tried? Looks like a power problem or deribved from a power problem.

We need a llot more information than you are providing. As a guess based on what you have said, you can log on to the university network but it won't let you connect via what (Outlook?) to your chosen SMTP mail provider. Sounds like they've got their network fairly locked …

Without info as to your symptoms (plenty of info) there's nothing we can help you with. For example you miught be plugged into the network at work, but not at home. Or your router/DSL modem doesn't have the right green lights on. Or you get error messages when you try …

WinZip v12 does this and you can select the option from the menu when you drag files to be zipped onto the WinZip pane. You can choose the Zip split size. It'll need WinZip 12 at the other end.

If you google "Windows registry Guide" you can see what's there. That's what we'd do and then pretend we know the answer to your question! Point is that anyone who has produced one has an object of commercial value. Cheers

The fact that it stops at different points suggests one of three things that come immediately to mind and these would tie in with some previous advice in this thread: 1. Could be dirt and stuff accumulating in the PC causing erratic behaviour. Less probable than possible. 2. Could be …

On the info you've provided, I'd say head over to the Spyware/VCirus forum, read the sticky post and do what it says to post information about what your system is doing. If you're brave, there's enough info there for you to sort the whole think out - if you're confident …

You can download software from Sony AFAIK. And the user guide. I suggest you do that and set the camera up to the computer from the manual. Having said that I would have exoected the switched on camera to be at least recognised as a USB hard disk. Anyway, please …

Does this help with editing the registry in DOS: [url]http://www.geocities.com/politalk/win95/regdos.htm[/url] I tried it in Vista with regedit /? and it brought up the windows pane for regedit. But if you find a way of exporting the registry as a text file (see the link) ....

... and in the other orum section I replied: A long beep is usually a RAM problem. As you've tried the original RAM, it is possible that there is a common cause fault on both RAM sticks. Like zapped by static electricity. Or not seated proerly (unlikely for 1 long …